screeny

<p>@ R.T. : You might be right because the difference between 16mm end and the 45mm is pretty harsh and I'm anything but a pixelpeeper. Bloody problem with Pentax is, the service is hard to find around where I live and last time I had a Pentax camera checked and repaired, the cost was painfully high. Anyway I'm not replacing the 16-45, as I'm pretty happy with the 45mm end down to somewhere 20mm. So maybe I'll do again some test under controlled conditions. Thx all for the responses</p>

<p>Michael, thanks for the reply. I wonder; where do corners start and end in corner sharpness. If you look in my portfolio at my website you'll see some typical images I make with the 16mm end of the 16-45. The sharpness in the corners are of no concern to me, however in this type of images In can't seem to get the faces sharp, not at F5.6, not at F8. Now would the DA Limited 15mm solve this issue? </p>

<p>Hey all, long time since I spent time here. However, currently I'm happy with the 45mm end of my <strong>Pentax-DA 16-45mm F4</strong>, sharpness wise. However, the 16mm end seems to be pretty un-sharp, to the point I'm considering purchasing another lens for the 16mm area. (Btw I´m using a K20D). After some googling I came up with the idea the Pentax smc DA 12-24 might be the lens for me. However, next to all those reviews in magazins I was wondering and hoping whether some owners of both lenses can inform me and/or unleash their opinion on whether the Pentax smc DA 12-24 mm is significant sharper in the 16mm area than the Pentax 16/45 F4? In other words; does it justify, from a sharpness point of view, the investment? Thanks for any input. <br>

<br>

Cheers, <br /><br>

<br>

Marc<br /></p>

<p>I have no clue how this happened nor if or how I did turn anything of. I'm not sure if it happens in all picturs, in some it is more subtle difference, it others more prominent, some maybe so subtle it is hardly visible...in the end it is not really crucial yet I was just wondering.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>ok thanks for the answers, so now th question is: how to turn on the updating preview</p>

<p>pics..let's give it a try..grr html.</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/photo/13135318<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/13135316</p>

<p>PS..don't bother about commenting on the silly pics :)</p>

 

<p>..uhhhh...any particular you need to know? LR got quite some buttons to push...</p>

<p>I'm sure I'm not the first with this issue but google haven't lead me to an answer, weird enough.In lightroom some edited images appear different in the library preview versus the development preview. The latter being more lighter/brighter.The answers I did found mostly started and endend in "is your monitor calibrated discsusions". My monitor is calbrated and I have used PS (CS2) for a long time untill I tried LR3. With PS all was ok, what I saw on screen was how it was printed by my pro-sumerlab.<br>

Did I miss a setting somewhere? Or is this "normal"?</p>

<p>cheers</p>

<p>marc</p>

 

<p>No pro but I do have fun in shooting portraits with the Holga:<br>

www.marcilford.net<br>

(look under Holga II)</p>

<p>cheers,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Hey all,</p>

<p>Just bought a Bronica SQ-A Chimney finder. Without user manual. Gave it a try but don't see any indicators now where when looking through screen. Any one knows how to use/operate a Bronica SQ-A chimney finder? What buttons to push, under what circumstance it will not work etc?</p>

<p>thanks in advance</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>loosely wound film.? ok I'll paya attention to that the first couple of rolls let's see if that fixes the problem/if that is the problem. Bloody saints in heaven, such a medium format camera is rather a workings man camera. But oh boy if it works the images are gorgeous way beyond 35mm</p>

<p>thx all!!!</p>

<p>I had the camera tilted 90 degree....<br>

(why ? because I had it on a vivitr flash bracket. I lied on the floor had the bracket in my left hand and tilted the whole set 90 degree ccw so my left hand rested on the floor and the whole set of bracket and camera restedon my left hand.)</p>

<p>Dear Bronica users and others,</p>

<p>Recently I have some light leaks in my <strong>Bronica SQ-A</strong> images. This problem seems to be rather randomly as it does not show on all images now and then it happens. I'm not sure what it is but in order to make a good guess what to replace (body or back) I'm trying to gather as much information as possible. Untiull now I have read to possibilities:<br>

1) light leaking back<br>

2) shutter curtain that is stuck<br>

Any info, comment or insights are welcome</p>

<p>thanks in advance</p>

<p>examples:<br>

<img src="http://www.screeny.demon.nl/toycamera/Cathelijne_PORTRA400NC_NGFX400NC66_0002_LL.jpg" alt="" width="547" height="600" /></p>

<p><img src="http://www.screeny.demon.nl/toycamera/Light leak Bronica Bugger_001.jpg" alt="" width="595" height="600" /></p>

<p>Mhh I used photo.net a lot when I got into photography and indeed the forum with search button is a huge pile of information that is very usefull, not only hardcore data but also lot's of opinions about almost every hing. So that's the postive about photo.net. However concerning critique I disagree with Lex. He agrues that untill now photo.net is better in delivering good critiques while flickr is mate rating and praising. Tha latter is true but the former is not true. Though is very large Photo.net is in my opinion a very narrow minded community. A certain type of images are aprreciated and many other types and styles of photography are not. Overall the critique can be good very occasionaaly but in general in my experience the last 5 years its either a big praise or some critique "hey that image is out of focus/not sharp enough, maybe you should buy rthe Cakon 500XT 200 lens I bought it and it is suberp sharpness". What I have noticed at flickr is that due to the way it is set up their are true sub communities which you can join. So if you are in to of camera flash photography join any of the Strobsit poles and avoid critiueslike: nice image but I prefer natural/available light over flash any time. So bottom line in general and maybe a bit exagerated photo.net is one big communinty with all styles through another so what you liek theire is always some one critqueing your image not because of the image buit because your style is not his. In Flickr there is a better way to choose your audience, your peers so to speak.</p>

<p>just my 2 cents</p>

<p>I still use both Photo.net and Flickr</p>

scanned without ICE option<div></div>

Not sure what happened, but uptill now I fairly problemfree used a 4990 with Silverfast to scan 120 rolfilm.

This evening something went wrong and I have no idea what...but I'm afraid this might not be my happy evening,

scannerwise...Since today when I scan with ICE it totally screws up. I did test scan without the ICE option and

then the scan was ok (with ofcourse the obvious spot, spickles, scratches, dust particles etcetcetc), so

apperently something is wrong with the ICE funtion? If any boy has some experience with scanner please take a

look at the images attached. Any one knows what is happening? Software error? hardware problem?

thx in advance.

 

Marc

 

PS. Don't mind the greenish color

PPS. I', always using the same film,( no classic b/w) so that shouldn't be the problem in the past this film

worled perfectly for me.<div></div>

Nooo, not again...

.."so as long as the current is less than that of a welding arc you will be fine."

LOL

I think I understand...but probably have to read it again tomorrow :)

Thanks for the explanation!

"The camera to subject distance is irrelevant"

now that I don't understand. The whole guide number calculation is based on when a flash is on-camera. Taking it of camera in your hand (flash with 1 mtere cord) will merely change the distance between the camera/flash and object. However if I go wireless and place the flash 2 meter from the subject but use a 500mm lens and stand on 14 meter distance between me and subject my intuition says the flash will need to put out much more power than when standing with camera only 2 meters from the subject.

 

Is my sense of logic playing tricks on me?

I'm planning of buying a couple of radio triggers and a flashmeter, all in order to be able to shoot slides (No I

don't have the $$$ for a decent D-SLR so that's not the solution) with 2 or 3 of camera flashes in manual mode

and hopefully the auto meter will get me to some decent exposed slides. I'm reading my self into the matte ron

how actually use the flash meter, and I start understanding how it all works.

However, one thing just hit me which I don't understand: In general you dial your required shutterspeed in the

flash meter, flash away while keeping the meter near your subject (most of the time plant the meter on the nose

so to speak) , and the flashmeter gives you the correct aperture F8 or such. Hence you transfer the shutterspeed

you dialed in the flashmeter and the aperure the meter advices to your camera and all should go well...

 

However...I alsways understood light looses power the further you move from your subjet. In the old days with now

adjustable flashes, the power output was controlled by moving the flashunit further or closer away. So how does

the flashmeter know the distance to your camera? Its fine with it reads F* for correct exposure with a certain

setting but how the hell it knows whether my camera is 2 mtrs or 20 mtrs from the subject?

 

Is the concept that the aperture setting the flashmeter advices correct within a certain range in which the

camera must be, think of studio work? The reason I come up with this is because what if I want to use flash with

ambient outside? useing a 300mm lens so I would be quite far away from the subject. Would the resuklts from the

flashmeter still be correct when metered at the subject?

 

gr

 

Marc

I totally agree<div></div>

gosh , got to love this site! So much information and so many too leanr from.

 

Thx all

@Arnold: thx for your input, I'm aware of the use of the auto function and have good results with it also with "fooling" the flash when using fill flash technique. the reason I want to use manual and yet control the power is because I wan t to slave another flash (so basically ding a two flash set up). as i don't have the cash now to endulge me woth Pocket wizards and vivitars 285HV's I bought a flash triggered slave unit thingie which I connect to the other flash (old Braun Flash). From experience I know this two flash set up does not work in auto mode: the two flashes influence each others light reading. So I need to go manual, hwoever I'm tryying to find a some what predicatable way of controling the light. Hence my idea of using the ND filters which I wil certainly try straight away. oh btw I'm using film instead of digital so no direct feedback..hence my wish for soem predictability.

Problem: I have a Vivitar 283 so no manual power control. On M is boost all the

power in a single flash. PLanning to find the VP1 unit but until then I was

wondering:

Question: I do have HiTech ND filters for stacking on my lens. Could I use those

IN FRONT OF the Vivitar? Could I do the same maths? ND.6 is a 2 stop ND filter

so placing it on front of a vivitar flash on Manual would reduce the output by 2

stops? Guess it's to easy but I though better ask if some one knwos whether I

can use the ND lens filters as flash control devices :)

 

cheers

 

Marc