vasilis

The biggest problem is what will happen if the camera needs service. If you have a way around that then I would stick with minolta. The 7d and the d70 take almost identical images having exactly the same sensor. The d70 is quicker to start and shoot. If you ask me I would stay with the 7d for the anti-shake.

Actually Roger is right, sometimes the camera will be more stable on its neck strap than held against your face. Also a burst can help. I think that a prime wide lens (24mm 2.8) on your d70 is the best way to obtain night shots. Also a VR lens can help a lot (24-120vr for example). Although ofcourse there is not real reason to change system, maybe the optimum system that I have seen until now for low light is the KM dslrs with the antishake and a fast prime (I tried one and the capabilities are amazing).

On the contrary, I would like just one rating which actually it will be if you like or not the image.

Could you please email me (if you have) an example on 200iso or 400iso. I ordered it also in a local shop, I do not have the obligation to buy but I think I will. I was just looking for a second camera to bring with me when it is not convenient to drag the dslr and lens (1.3 kg). To be honest as the lx1 it will be a second camera, maybe the main reason I ordered it is that the camera looks very nice, feels very nice and altough small it looks like a camera. We will see, I will tell you my opinion and I will post some photos when I will use it.

You should consider the advantages and disadvantages according to your needs. You said that you want it for candids, sure for that due to the waist level finder and also silent operation would be much better than any dslr. For the decisive moment you have just to see if the shutter delay would be short enough. If candids and street photography is what you are mainly interested in then the 24-120 is all you will ever need. Also you have to see the samples at 800 or 1600iso, you never know but probably it will be ok. Then finally you should go to a shop and really handle it to see if size and everything is ok for you.

Spot Metering. When you use normal metering the camera takes into account the whole picture which is mostly black and the moon is taking a small part of it. So the camera takes an average value which overexposes the moon. If you use spot metering and point the camera to the moon (or to any object) the camera will measure only for the moon (object. Find out how to use spot metering in your manual.

Something like the new powershot a610 seems a correct choice....

I would agree with Bob's idea, if it is for me to just upload the photos in a sufficiently large format and then photo.net to print and dispatch to the customer taking also a part of the payment then I would gladly do it. Each of us will just specify which photos are for sale and which of them are not and also we will set the price (eg. my photo and the photos of Ian Mc Eachern cannot be the same price :-). The thing is that most of us are not commercial photographers so the idea to print post and deal with customers is not exactly attractive (just takes more time than most of us have). If i have nothing to do except wait for a cheque or see the money in my credit card then this would justify to get a considerable amount for each photo (percentage of 25%). In this way photo.net collects and gives to the photograph the comission. Also I think that the idea can be commercially successful because at the same price for a normal poster someone would get a more individual and unique image. Unsatisfied customers I think should be treated with the choice of another print or credit in the site to get another picture.

What you say about the speed is strange as everyone is saying that the panasonic is performing very well speed-wide. I think maybe it is because the dsc-v3 is an extremely fast camera (for compact standards). Either way thanks for the information, I will try it in the shop along with others to see if it performs ok.

I am thinking about bying this camera and the only review on the web

is from dpreview. I would like to know if someone has already bought

the camera from this forum and if he is satisfied. For example about

the picture quality on high sensitivities.

Generally you are right and generally i follow your rule. But general rules like the one you have made are very simplistic. It is not a matter of law, it is a matter to feel correct. Each one of us within our contexts takes a decision in each particular case if he should take the photo or not. For example, in most cases I will not take a photograph of someone crying; or of a couple in an airport kissing goodbuy; or of a young girl returning home at night that I think she will feel threatened; or of a mother breastfeeding in a park (where I live, I have seen it sometimes). It is not a matter of law, it is a matter of politeness (for me).

I always lived in European countries where the minimum wage is enforced by the law, and also rent control (depends on regions). For me is the norm and does not seem to me at all obvious that it does not help society. I think that I know a lot of people that at some point on their lives they were indeed helped by this not to fall below a standard of living.

 

So, this being the experience of my life, it seems very strange to me that you think that the "minimum wage" or "rent control" are bad ideas and you are so arrogantly dismissive about it all.

What "living wage" means? I suppose the minimum wage is the minimum salary permitted to pay someone for a job?

Can anyone explain the line (curiosity)?

http://www.bythom.com/1530lens.htm

 

To be honest I do not have a clue for the lens, but this is an online review by Thom Hogan

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3599952-md.jpg">

http://clarkvision.com/imagedetail/dynamicrange2/ <p>

 

Then this guy measures dynamic of film and digital and finds that the canon 1ds has more dynamic range than film. It needs time and work to settle this point....

I have a d70, and I always though that the dynamic range is less than film. But on the other hand I never thought that film has double the dynamic range as a lot of people were saying. The measurement of the d50 that you showed is very interesting as it may be an explanation to why there are a lot of people that say that d50 takes more pleasing images than d70 and d70s. I found another site that measures (and describes the measurement) of a fuji reala film, he finds that reala has 15 eV. <p>

http://www.path.unimelb.edu.au/~bernardk/tutorials/360/technical/hdri/index.html

We had a KM A2 in the family, the EVF was the deal breaker, we returned it to the shop. We tried two different samples and then we ended getting the KM 5D instead. There is no comparison between EVF and otical TTL viewfinder. The EVF will be fine in 90-95% of the cases but when you try to follow quick action or when you try shooting on a bright day for me (and a lot of others) is intolerable.

I came late to the thread, but I want to agree with M, her post is I think describing a big part of truth. As an outsider, what I can say is that praise and worship and formation of closed groups kills the forums.

Depends what you have at the moment and how much cheap you can get the lens. The 35-70 is an excellent lens optically (try it before you buy) but the 50-100 range in digital for me would be somehow useless....

I have not tried the sony but I will take a guess depending on what I search on a camera. What I will surely like on the sony is the lcd that can be used as a waistlevel viewfinder and also for me it is very important that it will be silent. I will also like the fact that the image quality would be more or less the same as a dslr. And also the 24-120 lens, which is a range that you do not get in dslrs at the moment except if you spend a lot of money. The main thing that I will not like in the sony is the EVF and maybe this is enough to not take it... All the evf's I used until now destroyed all the fun in photography (I have to see the evf of sony ofcourse). Also I think that the sony will be slower compared to a dslr although maybe not significantly. Make your list of positives and negatives based on what you would like to have when shooting for the sony and the canon, go try them and see which one seems best in your hands and then take your decision. I would recommend also the km 5d, a camera that impressed me lately...

You have to experiment a little bit. Take some long exposures (0.5, 1, 2, 3... secs) at different isos with the cap of the camera on and the viewfinder covered. Put it in manual. Do the same set of pics with noise reduction on and off. This way you will see your hot pixels. Noise reduction is that the camera takes an equal exposure with the shutter closed in order to subtract the hot pixels. look at the results to see how many hot pixels you have. Almost all cameras have this "problem" at long exposures. The line though is a strange thing, that is why I am saying to experiment a bit. I do not think it is dust, and I do not think it is scratch.

There are also for sale now a 11-18mm and an 18-200mm zoom from minolta that are a bit more expensive but I have not used.

The minolta is a 1.5x crop factor and there is a new cheap minolta zoom 18-70 which is sold as the kit lens of the 5d and will become an effective 28-100. I have used this zoom and is fairly sharp (as the 18-70 of Nikon) but has more distortion (quite a lot) at 18mm.