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markwilkins

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Posts posted by markwilkins

  1. If you're switching to digital and you want something that does what your 28-70 lens

    does, then you probably need something in the 18-55 range because of the digital

    cameras' smaller field of view. Nikon's lens in that range is pushing $1000, though there

    are cheaper.

     

    If sharpness is your concern, though, I agree with the recommendation that a prime lens

    will be the best bang for the buck. The Nikkor 24mm f/2.8D is about $300 at B&H, will

    produce a comparable field of view to your current lens set at 36mm, which is wide

    enough to be useful for a lot of landscape shots, and is a well-regarded lens for

    sharpness.

     

    For $500, my guess is that you're unlikely to find a zoom that matches your Sigma in

    performance, but a good prime lens is another matter.

     

    -- Mark

  2. The battery may not "break in," but many smart lithium ion batteries continually calibrate

    their battery meter as they're used, which can cause the readings to get more accurate over

    time.

     

    However, if you use the LCD every time you shoot, most reports I've heard say that the

    battery will last about 350 exposures, so your halfway at 150 sounds about right.

     

    -- Mark

  3. The A-DEP feature is the kind of thing that Canon has always gone for while Nikon has

    skipped. What makes it questionably useful is that when your lens is wide open, DOF is a

    smooth gradient from sharp to blurry, and so it still doesn't give you an accurate idea of

    what your picture is going to look like once you trip the shutter.

     

    The truth is that you probably only really want to use a few aperture settings for most

    photography. Wide open for low light or for a nice shallow depth of field effect, f/8 or so

    for best overall sharpness of your subject without regard to other stuff, and stopped all

    the way down for maximum depth of field when you want everything sharp.

     

    Finer control than that can wait until you've played around a bunch with those settings.

     

    And remember, it's a digital camera -- experimentation costs a tiny bit of electricity,

    nothing more.

     

    -- Mark

  4. I had a few lenses in London last year, but I found the 35 to be generally useful. Most of the streets there are not wide and if you are trying to include some of the environment a little wider can help.

     

    Nevertheless, as you point out, any lens choice will be a compromise and you'll have to compose for what you have.

     

    -- Mark

  5. Well, there's good news and there's bad news...

     

    The good news is the camera's not going to Germany and I can probably have it back in the next few weeks, after the technicians in NJ have a look to make sure there's nothing grossly wrong.

     

    The bad news is that Solms has decided that the modification they were doing to fix the DX problems is unsatisfactory and they're working on something new that won't be ready before the summer, so it's unlikely the problem will be fixed.

     

    Thanks for all the ideas! :)

     

    -- Mark

  6. Thanks, everyone, for the ideas so far! Robert, I'm not particularly averse to using film,

    but the F100 is a more bulky camera than the M7 and doesn't share what I find the M7's

    usability advantages. Also, since the D70 and the F100 are similar cameras in a lot of

    ways, the differences come down mostly to the difference in FOV and carrying film around.

    (I still think I'm leaning toward the F100 based on that balance though.)

     

    One advantage to digital is that it WILL NOT and CAN NOT get fogged. (I haven't had

    trouble with security X-rays, but during a trip to London last year with the Leica, I fogged

    a roll by mistake because I forgot to rewind the film before opening up the bottom plate of

    the camera!! Amazingly, though one edge of the film was fogged, the pictures still came

    out well enough to be worth keeping.)

  7. That the decline in film sales increased in 2005 does not mean that digital will entirely

    eliminate film in the long run. In fact, my guess is that film is likely to end up exclusively

    in two markets: the low-end consumer market (where there are and will be plenty of

    people who just can't afford a computer, but can afford a one-time-use camera), and the

    fine arts market (where the look and the craft of film-based photography will continue to

    have some cachet.)

     

    Based on this, I predict:

     

    1) Color neg film will be available for a long, long time, but expect a serious thinning of

    options on the pro end. Still, I think some pros will stick with color neg film in some

    circumstances just because it's so tolerant of over- or underexposure.

     

    2) Black and white will remain a niche product for the fine arts user. Actually, B/W

    photography is probably going to be least affected by digital, because most of the people

    who are doing B/W photography now are as much choosing it for the craft aspect as for

    the look.

     

    3) Reversal film may well be dead in the near future because of the significant R&D

    requirements and the lack of significant consumer use.

     

    -- Mark

  8. Heh, perhaps I do have something of the collector in me. However, I am a visual artist, full

    time, for a living, so I feel fine about taking some joy in my tools. :)

     

    I am not, however, a professional photographer, so maybe that's why I've been so much all

    over the place both in my artistic goals and my equipment. For me, photography is play,

    not work.

     

    However, taking pictures of my travel has nothing to do with any of that! Help me out

    here!! :D

     

    -- Mark

  9. OK, so I'm going to London and Paris for a couple of weeks in the spring. The question of

    what camera to take along would normally not be an issue -- I'd take the M7, probably

    with the 50/2 and 35/1.4 ASPH.

     

    Unfortunately, I sent the M7 to New Jersey for a repair (intermittent DX-reading failure)

    and it's now winging its way to Germany. No, it won't be back before the trip, and no, I

    can't go to Solms to pick it up.

     

    I have various other equipment choices available to me, and I know they're not really

    perfectly comparable from a standpoint of what images I'd like to make. What I'm looking

    for are suggestions as to a strategy, an interesting project, or whatever to MOTIVATE my

    decision to take one set of equipment or the other.

     

    I'm agnostic on the issue of film vs. digital. The reason I'd normally take the M7 is that I

    simply take better pictures with it. Why, I don't know. I also like using color neg film

    because it puts the issue of white balance in someone else's court -- fiddling with white

    balance is my least favorite aspect of digital photography. (That's true with slides too, but

    there I've tended to tolerate it because the images look beautiful on a light table.)

     

    Soooo, here are my choices, in no particular order (though the ones that seem most

    reasonable to me are nearer the top.)

     

    1) Nikon D70 w/ 17-35 f/2.8 zoom and 50mm f/1.4. I don't like that my low-light lens

    comes out equivalent to a 75 in this arrangement and again white balance is a problem

    (particularly in indoor lighting) but it's probably a serviceable arrangement.

     

    2) Nikon F100 w/ same lenses, plus maybe an 85/1.8. Being able to go wider might be a

    lot of fun and the 50/1.4 is a very useable choice. Also, the camera's smaller, which is a

    plus. However, lugging film around and developing later is a minus.

     

    3) Pentax 67 w/ 90mm f/2.8 and 45mm f/4, plus maybe a Canon G6 compact digital to

    balance it off. This one might be a lot of fun -- I don't get enough use out of the Pentax

    67. However, it's like carrying around a ton of bricks.

     

    4) Just go with the Canon G6. Can't really get the same degree of nice depth of field, easy

    to carry around, takes nice pictures otherwise, and I won't cry if I lose it or it's stolen or I

    destroy it.

     

    5) Get a second M7 or an MP body, possibly with a 0.58 viewfinder. I'm Mark, and I'm an

    addict.

     

    Cameras discounted from the list are: Nikon D1x (too big, offers few practical advantages

    over the D70 for this application), Nikon FM2n (nice enough, small, but F100 will do better

    with the lens I want to use)

  10. Marc, for what you're talking about, a Canon or Nikon SLR is a more versatile tool than a Leica, although I tend to think that a Leica with an 8x ND filter would be pretty usable as long as you weren't having to go from daylight to darkness frequently (as it sounds like you do in your wedding contexts.)

     

    -- Mark

  11. The reason people say Leica M cameras are good for low-light photography is not that they perform best wide open or at slow shutter speeds.

     

    Instead it's that wide open or at slow shutter speeds the Leica M performance is noticeably better than the competition at similar aperture and shutter speed choices, while at faster shutter speeds and stopped down, even slightly, Leica cameras produce images very similar to much cheaper competitors.

     

    I find that I can get away with much more pushing of the limits in marginal conditions with my M camera but when there's plenty of light and I wish to stop down I don't really see much difference from the images I take with my Nikon equipment, which is easier to use and more versatile.

     

    I do use the M a lot more, though, because most of my people photography is at night.

     

    -- Mark

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