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philip pankov - www.philpa

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Posts posted by philip pankov - www.philpa

  1. Can anyone comment on suitability of various mount boards for `frameless'

    presentation of large (i.e. 30x40) prints? I am searching a good looking, cost

    effective mounting option for large prints presentation aimed at higher end of

    the market. I am less concerned with archival properties, but more about

    having modern, contemporary look to final prints hanged on the wall. <br><br>

     

    My problem is that so far all my "framed" sales were in traditional black

    frames. While simple black frames are ムclassy', I feel by not having a modern,

    contemporary looking frameless option I am missing on the large part of the

    market. <br><br>

     

    Do you sell mounted, ready to hang large prints? I would love to hear your

    opinion/advice on various mount boards. Thank you very much in advance.

    <br><br>

     

    Additional info: <br><br>

     

    For 30x40 prints I want to have mounted and ready to hang option that would

    not require any framing. My lab has these options for 30x40 size print:

    <br><br>

     

    Styrene board ユ Styrene is a plastic mounting board 2mm thick.

    Standard color is white. We find this to be one of the best mounting

    substrates available and are pleased to offer it at very economical prices.

    <br><br>

     

    Foamboard ユ Foamboard is 1/4" thick foam-centered board coated with tough

    white plastic shell. <br><br>

     

    Masonite ユ Standard 1/8" hardboard masonite. This traditional mounting surface

    provides a heavy

    duty, rigid, hard and long lasting substrate. Perfect for the high-end market.

    <br><br>

     

    Standout ユ Standout is a thick lightweight board finished with a black plastic

    edge. Hanging holes on backside. The finished edge prevents us from trimming

    the board to any custom sizes. Standout is available in two depths, 3/4" and 1-

    1/2", and nothing extra needs to be done to prepare for display. <br><br>

     

    Canvas ユ A traditional canvas mounting to provide the highest quality

    available for those special, high-end prints. Canvas mountings can

    additionally be put on Masonite or placed on to a stretcher frame. <br><br>

     

    Regards from `sunny' Ireland. <br><br>

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br><br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black

    & White Photography of Ireland

  2. I find PMK is the best for night photography, for me at least. It keeps highlights in check, even for high-contrast night city scenes. This <a href=" http://www.philpankov.com/-/philpankov/detail.asp?photoID=361851&cat=4992"> Night Lights, Dublin, Ireland</a> neg is Pan F in PMK pyro, printed with 1.5 grade. I normally print with 2 grade, but for my most of my night photos I find 1.5 grade gives better overall look. I use the same dev time for Pan F in PMK for both night and day shots.

     

    <br>

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  3. Jon Re: "but due to geographical circumstances I cannot use the proprietary software" = I thought initially you were based in North Korea or some other location like that :-)

     

    Just funny how ones perception changes when you read though the thread.

     

    <br>

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  4. If you want a tank of a camera, I would get Fuji GSW690. I owned one for a while, traveled with it widely and it is a TANK. Plus 6x9 neg gives you extra cropping space, or you can crop it to panoramic dimensions. All my <a href="http://www.philpankov.com/-/philpankov/gallery.asp?cat=18189">Irish Panoramas</a> series are done with Fuji GSW690. I print them up to 24 inch wide and they are as sharp as my other regular prints.

    NOTE: <a href="http://www.philpankov.com/-/philpankov/detail.asp?photoID=1168862&cat=18189">Trinity Lane Panorama</a> is an exception, it was shot with Widelux and its not as sharp as others.

     

    <br>

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  5. My take on Suare vs. rectangle: I always preferred square.

    Reasons:

    1. No need to rotate camera on the tripod

    2. You can decide to print vertical or horizontal later in the darkroom. This often works better than making decision on the shoot, at least for me.

    3. Film is cheap

     

    <br>

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  6. West Coast Imaging (www.westcoastimaging.com) are considered to be experts in high-end scanning. Somewhere on their articles page they have very specific statement: if you want best scans possible, scan slide film. Check it yourself.

     

    <br>

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  7. I too have Minolta spotmeter F, but never used it in flash mode. I would be very surprised that it?s actually the meter?s error. This spotmeter is exceptionally accurate in normal mode, I can't imagine it is so much off in flash mode. Did you check the manual for Minolta? Maybe there are some settings that need to be set/changed?

     

    <br>

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  8. I was in Kenya (Nairobi) last year for 2 weeks and I have to say I could find pretty much any photographic supplies I can find here in Dublin. Certainly all regular 35mm film from major brands was very available (and fresh too). Plus it was actually cheaper than here, but then Ireland is really expensive even by European standards.

     

    Regards,

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  9. Rodinal 1+100 or even 1+200 might be nice? How do you avoid uneven development with these dilutions? What dev times/agitation?

     

    I used Pan F with Rodinal 1:50 for everything, including some night photography, which would be high contrast by definition, see samples on my website. If you adjust dev times accordingly, you get any level of contrast you want, so blocked highlights can be avoided, etc

     

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  10. Only this summer I got finally to use 2 rolls of APX25 that I had frozen for last 2 years. Being addict to Ilford Pan F, almost always developed in Rodinal 1:50 (classic combo many would say) I can notice these differences:

     

    1. APX25 has much smaller grain. You can see the difference straight away at regular enlargements.

    2. Tonality is very different. I love Pan F, I used it a lot (almost all my portfolio work on the website is with Pan F) and I prefer Pan F tonality, but this is very personal.

    3. I feel Pan F acutance is a bit more pronounced (both in Rodinal 1:50), but not that much more noticeable.

     

    My conclusion is to still use Pan F. This was an easy choice, given that I have no APX25 left anyway :-)

     

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  11. From my point of view (and experience as I own Nikon CS 9000 scanner) the best option is to use a monochrome C-41 film. Main advantage, especially if you use MF film, is that ICE dust reduction works fine with C-41 film, but not with traditional types of monochrome film. Saves you hours/days/weeks. Might save your life too :-)

     

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  12. About this quote 'A good guess would be that it is the old HP5, rather than the HP5+ that they have been selling for years.'

     

    I doubt it would make sense economically to maintain separate (and very old) production line for Ilford just for this film. Unless they produce it somewhere else in the world? Nobody knows, I guess.

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  13. OK, do not want to confuse you further, especially since you are just starting, but Ilford Pan-F Plus in Rodinal 1:50 is a CLASSIC combo that you have you try at some point. Most of my work is with this combo and I love it! I tried lots of others, liked some, but always come back to this. You just can't go wrong if you are looking for that classic Black & White look. It?s only my opinion, as always, but I hope many would agree.

     

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

  14. To Don Mckeith: in my experience, Rodinal would give you MUCH more noticeable acutance affect with most films than ID11 would with same films.

    For example, Ilford Pan F looks VERY different in Rodinal than it does in ID11. You should be able to see difference in apparent sharpness straight away.

    <br><br>

    Philip Pankov <br>

    <a href="http://www.PhilPankov.com/">Pictures of Ireland</a> - Fine Art Black & White Photography of Ireland

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