alex_z

All that talk indeed sounds quite frustrating...:-(

I'm putting up a new machine - all aimed to handle a heavy engineering computing workload along with photograhic work (photoshop obviously) and lareg mamory management would be the major point of x64 OS. I'm yet torning between XP x64 and Vista x64, that NikonScan incompatibility with x64 OS and their apparent unwillingness to support their scanning community sounds really dissapointing (and I'm so sued to NikonScan, couldn't force myself to like Vuescan a whle ago during trial period,,,)

Nice story, thanks for sharing...

I have yet traveled long-distance with my M setup, did however years back in my SLR days.

Now though I've developed a nice street combination that works for me on dedicated street shot - two cameras each with single lens "welded" to it.

I'd probably follow that approach on an abroad trip as well, unless personal security is something of high consideration in pre-defined areas (in which single camera/single lens if the most viable approach).

I have my M3 with 50mm 'Cron and M6 with 35mm 'Cron ASPH hanging down on me conveniently (one on short strap on my chest - the one that gets used most, the second on longish strap accros my body handing on right side bellow the elbow). I figured that combination works good on streets where lens swap isn't very convenient procedure (unless you shoot two different films in bodies, I do not).

 

So, on your place, I'd probably take either M3 to go with 50mm, M7 or MP with 35mm, while probably having 90mm Elmarit in your pocket for those occasions where you feel in the mood of portraiture (obviously, in such case M3 sounds to be the body...)

I'd like to see her work, but that kind of flashy site makes no less then painful experience. iIntermitten video loading makes it nearly impossible to look at, not to say qute annoying. Also hate those sites where a loud music starts without the asking the observer whether he/she want it at all.

Sorry, "no visit" site for me...

Xmm, interesting, according to the article I'm a predominantly left-brained person which appears to be quite in-line with my engineering background and strong reality preference (hence probably the reason of lacking of artistic view in most of my photography)...

I'm just getting into bulk loading, just acquired a bulk reels of Tri-X and Neopan 1600 along with well used (but fully operaitonal) Computrol loader.

I was really surprised to reveal the loader has been made in Israel, i.e. my country...:)

 

Have to learn the loading though...

A strictly single camera/lens ?

For me M3 + current 50mm 'Cron work best.

 

For more relaxed combination: M3 with 50mm 'Cron + M6 Classic with 35mm ASPH 'Cron.

 

I just back from my all-day long street shooting in Jerusalem - held the latter combination (both M3 and M6 on me) - worked beautifully.

M3+50mm 'Cron got most of the job done on streets, while M6+35mm ASPH 'Cron was best in crowded and narrow old arab market.

I concur with Stuart, bought one for my M3 - works great indeed and is snug on the original metal eyepice of M3.

They re-opened fwe months ago under new management.

I purchased several things from them: two slings (to fit my M6 and M3), scoop and strap with hook. Must admit, I found only sling device to be indeed very useful as advertised on their web. The Scoop turned to be just a cheap piece of quite roughly done plastic, non convenient for eyeglasses wearer like me, doesn't fit the finish of M6 (sticks out considerably above the top plate - looks ugly). I took it off quickly (and apparetly lost of somewhere already). I had correspond with shop owner regarding that device - they responded they will probably try to improve the design in some future.

Strap is not userfor me also. It is not length-adjustable, the stiching of two ends is made quite rough and is not convenient when on your shoulder. Length-wise is may not suit every person and did no suit me. Moreover, Leica doesn't recommend having camera to hang down on one single eyelet for any prolonged period of time.

The hook is indeed clever design and may find its way into usefulness, however it primarily was designed to get coupled to the Strap for camera carriage, so once dismissing the Strap, the Hook was also iventually discharged from "service". Having said that, I see it as quite clever design and someone may utilize one for other goals then it is originally advertised by Leicagoodies.

Concur.

recently figured a real beaten up M3 SS body (1959 vinrage), dings rubbings, etc.. all over the top, appeasr the one that went through hard life..was totally non-operational, mechancis stuck, bad shutter curtains, etc...

Sent to Youxin for a torogh CLA - the guy does wonders indeed. replaced both curtains, careful mechancis CLA, some small parts replacement (non-major), RF allignment, external coverage (vulcanit-like) replacement - the camera was brought to life to serve reliable for another few decades. Wonderfully smooth and soft operation, actually noticeably softer then my trouble-free M6...

All the treatement for just a mere of 350$....

 

Just unbelievable how these antique cameras can be revived and certainly outlast the owner and any conteporary digi-wonders..

DAG, Sherry, Youxin - any of them.

My personal vote (as long as any pure mechanical M talking, M3 in particular) goes to Youxin.

Just recently did an wonderful job of bringing totally non-operational, heavy beater M3 to a new life, wondeffully smooth mechanics, new shutter curtains, thorough CLA, etc...now my M3 is smoother and queter then my flawless M6...

Moreover, Youxin charges very reasonable...

Indeed wonderful series, will not be surprized if the entire series will be sold for a good price...

ust ventured into B&W and home processing in particular.

Shot 2 rolls of Tri-X 400, developed in HC-110 (dill. B for 6.5 minutes at 20

deg. C), not bad at all, all in all liked the results.

However, after scanning (Nikon LS-40), I figure grain is probably a bit too

coarse for fine portraiture (in particular for young children - makes their

silky skin look a bit rough).

 

In this regard I was advised to try Perceptol - according to what I was told, it

"eats up" the grain and delivers very smooth performance without compromising

sharpness (or shall I say accutance ?). However most certainly I'll have to

sacrifice film speed, i.e. shoting Tri-X 400 at 200.

 

Is there anyone who use Perceptol (especially for Tri-X) ? What is your opinion ?

Anything you can say about this one ?

 

Thanks, Alex

IMHO no reason to lust after M6TTL for flash work in particular. I don't know how robust is M6TTL's flash metering comparative to contemporary flash metering sophistication of nowaday's SLRs, but a non-TTL M6 (M6 Classic) works perfectly bundled with any cheap and smplem Auto flash attached to its shoe. I have Sunpak Auto 383 Super - a cheapa nd simlpe unit, yet quite robust and dependable. This is auto-thyristor unit (just like many others such as Vivitar models and others) - recently did an indoors event having no choce but use the flash on my M6 and loaded with ISO 100 slide film (Fuji Sensia 100) - put on 1/50 (sycn) or a bit slower, f/5.6 (and f/5.6 on the flash) to my amazement it did extremely well, the flash exposures were precise and well balanced, exposure-wise hit rate was no less then I used to with my former Canon SLR system featured by a sophisticated flash metering.

So, just a regular M6 (Classic) is perfectly usable with flash bearing auto-thyristor unit (these are readily available and cheap).

I realtively new user of M6 classic, later production (1995-1996), black one, x0.72. Found it very comfortable with my 'cron 50mm/2 (current). However, with my 90mm/2.8 Elmarit-M (also current), the focusing is a bit of a tough side - mainly due to small frame area. I found I have considerably lower hit rate precise focusing-wise with Elmarit then when shooting with 50mm/2. Recently bought x1.25 magnifier - made somewhat easier focusing with 90mm lens, yet still have a bit more exercise my eye to achieve confident 90mm lens focusing (espacially at wide apertures).

 

Although I'm not a huge fan of flash work with Leica M - recently managed to get through a large family event when I was ought to shoot in a restaurant, obviously flash was mandatory (there were a weak, colored illumination). What I have - a simple and cheap, Sunpack 383 Super unit featured Auto-Thyristor mode alongside all-manual. I did in Auto-Thyristor mode - put the camera on 1/50 (sync), f/5.6, the falsh set to f/5.6 also and went ahead. Mind you, I was shooting slides (that was the camere happen to be loaded with) - Fuji Sensia 100.

The flash unit has its own sensor that is aimed to cease the output upon sensing proper exposure. Being used in some past to Canon ETTL nearly full-proof flash metering performance, I sadly expected all over off-exposed flashy stuff out of my M6+Sunpack combo (the Auto-Thyristor mode sounds so plain primitive comparative to contemporary technology such as ETTL and similar of Nikon/Minolta).

Imagine my amazing - yesterday picked the developed roll out of the lab - stunning. Nearly 100% hit rate with proper flash exposures, right on. very few a bit over or underexposed - the rate was no worse then I used to with all the robustness of nowadays super-technological flash metering systems incorporated into mega$ SLRs.

So, now I hardly can get all the fuss about lust for M6TTL (aside of larger, reprotedly more convenient shutter speed dial) - just buy a cheap, simple flash unit (either Sunpack, Metz or similar) with Auto-Thyristor and/or Manual modes, spend a hour reading teh manual and makign sure you understood how it works and how to operate it and go ahead - you're set.

 

Also, I found M6 metering to be an excellent and precise one. Very useful with zone system. Once training your eye to differ between tones, with M6 oen metering you're set for nearlyy all situations. Get very straigth-forward - meter any area, evaluate hoe far it differs from mid-gray (up to 2-2.5 stops to either side), compensate manually the exposure and shoot away. With little exercise take 10-15 seconds.

Altenatively, buy a small, non-expensive incident meter (under 100$). Makes an unbeatable combo for M6 built-in metering for all situations.

Have Leica UVa E39 on my 50mm/2 'cron - bought from a reputable dealer, not doubts in authenticity. It has silvered/etched lettering too.

 

Regards, Alex

A Leica original strap that came with my M6 works fine for me, though I used to have it crossed on my chest. I found it convenient way of lugging my M6 and instant-ready for shooting. I also own Leicagoodie's hook (nice device on its own) and strap but somehow didn't like the idea of having my M6 hanging on single lug as has already been mentioned above.

Peter, Arthur, I tried out the x0.85 - it does appear to do the job I bought it for: to bring up 28mm frames to visibility. With this magnifier - the 28mm frame is very nicely outlined in the finder - just like 35mm with bare viewfinder. These are encouraging news for me (I wasn't able to see 28mm frame lines without the magnifier). And I'm obstacles wearer, mind you...

Peter, even with my glasses, 35mm frame is visible clearly for me with no any magnifier attached, and with x0.85 - the 28mm lines are brought up as conveniently as 35mm without the magnifier. However, it seems (not sure yet) the x0.85 magnifier adds up a bit of barrel distortions at the side lines, just a tad of these, nothing major but noticeable. I did not find it objectable though.

 

Best, Alex

Just recieved my x1.25 and x0.85 magnifiers - Leica clones, made in HK.

I do not own and have never seen the original one by Leica, no cannot compare

directly, however jst my personal opinion;

Well made, tough feeling overall. Optics appears to be clear and coated. What

bothers me is that there is very short threading in my M6 eyepiece so the

magnifier is hard to fit on threading, and once done there is very short move to

fix in (about half revolution or even less). That doesn't feel reassuring I

suspect the maginfier can be prone to be lost because of that.

I'd like to hear user's opinion about both Leica original and HK magnifiers - do

you also experience the issue of such loosy mount into the eyepiece ? (well,

once fixed it doesn't wobble, but such short threading makes me a bit

nervious...) Is that OK ?

Recently I acquired a softie and it apparently came loose in the release button

also due to very short threading and got lost withint just over 1 week or being

on the camera. This is why my suspicion has raised regarding the magnifier...

 

Regards, Alex

I shoot with my M6 Classic and use routinely its meter. The meter itself is very accurate, comparing its reading off 18% gray card with Seconic's incident produced stop-on match. However, like most have already mentioned here - learn to use it properly. It is indeed kind of large spot meter in the middle of the frame, just learn to compensate accordingly (best - learn zone system) - and you'll be fine.

I shoot negs and transparancies with my M6 metering - combined with zone approach (once grasped) it makes wonders with proper exposures even in very difficult situations.

I can't brag by a very extensive Leica experience, just got M6 Classic in a few months ago and have only one lens which is Summicron 50mm/2 (latest), but based on 28mm frame lines (invoked by the frames preview level om M6) I see a difficulty of using 28mm lens, let alone any wider.

I the side frame lines of 28mm cannot be seen in teh finder, it requires eyes to pop-up in order to get the frame boundaries ....

I would think using 28mm with M6 or similar I would just consider entire field of fiew as I can see though the finder (with eye as much centered over the finder as possible). I can hardly imagine people using wider then 28mm lenses with M6 or similar machines...

Unfortunately can't help you with yoru question, but personally, if Ebay seller doesn't bother to respond promptly to potential buyer's question, I do not bother bidding on his item.

 

Good luck, Alex

Hello all.

After efw years of being out of MF for LF, I decided yet again to back me up

with a light, hand-holdable MF setup, thinking TLR.

In some past I had a short-lived experience with a Rolleicord Vb -run a few

rolls through it, in general was quite satisfied but revealed a clear signs of

growing fungus inside the taking lens to it went back to the seller.

Then decided I want MF SLR instead and have a joyfull year with Bronica GS-1

which later was sold to finance my LF passion.

Still shooting 4x5, really enjoy it, but noticed it would be more then nice to

have a handy light MF for walks around, probably some street shooting and other

situations where LF setup isnt' an apropriate (but a professional 35mm SLR rig

is too heavy and intimidating).

Recently bought a used Yachica Mat 124 off Ebay which was addevrtised as

proffesioanlly services and in more then excellent condition. Received one and

guess what ? The condition seems far frmo to be as advertised, most improtant -

the lens shows obvious haze inside (or growing fungus ?) which is deal breaker

for me, so I arrange with the seller for a return with refund.

 

I think I would still want TLR and 6x6 indeed appears to be (family portraiture

should take a large part of TLR work) so I back to searching for a good TLR to

acquire. Now leaning towards Rolleicord/flex though (unless a really good sample

of Yashica Mat 124 will turn out...). I'm more or less familiar with teh options

given in Rolleicord/flex lines, lenses, etc.. though some are still mystery for me.

There are Rolleiflexes with Tessars and Xenars (as the Rolleicords), is Xenar a

direct competitor to a Tessar ? (just like Xenotar against Planar) ?

What is Rolleiflex Automat series ? I noticed several are offered for a

reasonable pricing.

What is Rolleiflex Tessar 3.5 MX ? There is one in excellent condition at KEH

for the price that appears to be reasonable. How these can be dated ? (are these

early models of 50s or probably 60s ?)

 

Thanks, Alex

I own Shen-Hao 4x5 (just like yours) and shoot with Caltar II-N 90mm/6.8 (issentially Rodenstock Gradnagon-N 90mm/6.8) as my widest lens.

I also have normal 150mm/5.6 Fujinon-W as my normal which I preferred to use due to inconvenience of using 90mm on my Shen with regular bellows.

I found regular bellows to be very stiff once focusing on infinity with my 90mm lens barrely allowing a limited movements. It is doable and I occasionaly worked that way, but it wasn't great pleasure trying to apply a movements on 90mm once the bellows are so squeezed. At last I broke down and acquired Shen's bag bellows - no 90mm is a breeze to use with amost full range of movements, however one must to watch out the bellows not getting in the way of image (might need some experience but you getting used to check for it fast).

Bearing my experience with 90mm, I'm doubtful regarding adequate utilization of lens much shorter them 90mm on Shen-Hao. I can see shooting with 75mm, but can hardly imagine using lens as short as 65mm...

 

Alex

Check Kata photo backpacks, so far IMHO best product for your money...

THeir largest HB-501 (or called something like that) handles my 4x5 filed LF with 2 lenses and accessories + stuffing my 35mm system (EOS-3 + booster + 28-70/2.8L + 70-200/2.8L) + flash if necessary...

Addmitedly - heavy and bulky but supposed to be to safely carry that kind of weight and heft. Noless improtant - excellent protection and heay duty. Besides - is able to carry a heavy tripod on its side securely.

www.katabags.com

 

Alex