f1-fanatic

Funny think about this image is that in two different corners of the

circuit, both on differnt days, he went to turn right and mid-apex,

he looked left (our of the turn and followed the camera. I doubt

that he saw me or anyone else, but it was very strange. Once was in

practice and the other (this one) was in qualifying. Strange.

Thank you for your kind words.. Again, I appreciate your taking the time to not only view the image but comment on it.. Twice ;)

 

Will post pictures as soon as I can.. I am leaving for the Canadian Gran Prix Wednesday with a 400mm f/2.8 and some other glass. Can't wait to start shooting.

Three actually. It was a very hard shot to get and personally I don't think I could get it again even if I waited there all day. The corner is blind to the photographer and only 2 of the 911's were catching air so I needed to listen for this car amongst the other Porsche offerings and time it. It was a blast and I would love the opportunity to do it again but this time with a prime lens.

 

Thanks for commenting.. I really appreciate you taking the time.

 

-Cheers

Porsche 911 jumping at Lime Rock... I had to worry about the car

closing distance, panning from left to right, as well as vertical

drop from the jump all the while trying to keep the shutter speed

slow enough to convery the speed of the car.

 

Thoughts? Comments???

EXIF data is the data a camera records when an image is captured. This data contains, but is not limited to, the F/stop, shutter speed, ISO, shooting mode, etc. You can find it in the Canon software or in Photoshop if you shot RAW.

 

To see what I am talking about, go to one of my images and click on the "details" tab. You will see that I list everything.

Yes I did. Thing is to crop an image is okay as long as your images are only going to be used for the web, but if you ever go to print these imagesyou will have a poor looking image because the pixels need to be spread out or "interpolated". When this happens you will lose the detail and clarity that you see when viewing the image. My suggestion is to fill the frame with your subject so this will never be an issue.

I like this image and exposure but wish I was closer. Using a 2x TC will not hurt the image as much as some people would lead you to believe.... Give one a try next time you have a chance to get to an air show and let me know what you think.

Blue Angels over Jones Beach at the 2006 Jones Beach Air Show. I

captured the No. 5 jet of Lcdr Ted Steelman banking North from the

flight line to regroup with the team. The weather was hot, humid,

and I had to hand-hold a 600mm f/4.0 prime to get this shot.

 

Thoughts? Comments??

Thanks buddy.. As for the frame, I do it with layers and blending options.

Nice capture of No. 6 on the Tarmac. One thing to keep in mind when shooting is to try and keep the horizon in mind and keep it as level as possible. This way if you have to edit later on, you will not lose much of the image.

 

Secondly, and this is important. Notice the grey "dot" just to the left of the vertical stabilizer.. It's dust on your image sensor. There are many ways to fix this, one is to simply clone it out using the clone tool in Photoshop. The other is to clean your image sensor or have it cleaned professionally. It will only show up at smaller apertures so unless you plan on doing a lot of shooting at f/11 or above, I would simply clone it. Also, in my example I used a "unsharp mask" to sharpen your image a little as welll as rotated the horizon.. Let me know what you think.

 

As for composition, I try and set shots like these off-center to add tension and move take an artistic stab at what some might consider a snapshot.

 

 

While I really like the composition of this shot, the crop and noise detract from the overall quality. Could you please post the original image and shot EXIF data so I can help a bit more?

Thank you Jonathan, I was trying to get away from the typical slow shutter pan shots that I have been capturing and wanted to see how this type of photo was received.

Great subject matter here... The photo appears slightly dark (but this might be my monitor) I absolutely love this car! Here is a photo of the same car taken a few years back at Lime Rock Park taken at 1/30 Sec using a monopod.

 

Do you have any more photos of her?

Thoughts... Comments....?

Very nice capture... I really like the work you have done with this as well as your last photo "Devil's Den". The tonality and composition are both very well executed.

Wow.. Thank you for your kind words.. I realy appreciate it so thanks again. As for how I too the picture. I used a lens called a "lensbaby". It's a manual focus lens that you push and pull to attain focus and then "bend" to select a focus point which causes extreme falloff of the focal plane so that the only area that remains in focus is what you want and everything else into the bokeah of the shallow DOF. It's a little bit of a handfull, but I like it. As for the borders, I will send you an Email with some instructions as to how I do it.

 

-Norman

Another great phot.. I really like your style and ability to diversify. Your photos are hard hitting when they need to be and have a refreshing artistic flair about them. I look forward to seeing more.

In reviewing some of your photos this one really jumped out at me. I love your use of light and choice of composition here. The photo is mood evoking and at the same time offers a great range of tonal diversity and texture that it's almost surreal. Great photo!

You ARE the master! Another incredible photo Vincent.

JoJo,

 

My comments are not based on an opinion but experience, moreover:

 

1) Brass tumbles when it strikes the ejector. These aren't in motion

 

2) The lighting isn't changing on the cylinder of the brass from round to round nor on the back of the top most shell where the flash would have exposed the back and primer as it did the slide of the weapon.

 

3) The two pistols you photographed don't have the cyclic rate to fire that many rounds per minute

 

4) The projectle being fired should have a longer "tail" (notice the crimp on the brass in both photos)

 

5) There are no sparks from the ignition of the primer/powder exiting the barrel which would be very noticable at night also known as muzzle flash.

 

6) The slide of the weapon appears to be locked open and not in battery

 

7) There wouldn't be a shadow behind the gun.

 

Please take this as constructive criticism and what to look for to help make future shots look more realistic.

In order to obtain proper focus and perspective, you need to take into consideration that the vehicle is not only moving left to right, but also closing distance to the lens. These are very difficult shots to get! This photo shows an example taken at 1/30th Sec at f/22 with a 300mm f/2.8 prime. My only suggestion would be to use a monopod, and start at around 1/125th sec and work your way down. Another suggestion would be to start working with cars that are at 90 degrees deflection as they are more stable and do not close the distance to your lens. Hope this helps.

First let me say, nice shot, and great subject matter. As far as constructive criticism goes, I would have preferred to see a larger aperture and slightly slower shutter speed with this one to help isolate your primary subject better and help convey the sense of speed. As far as his actual speed goes, he's really not moving 140mph as thought because he is entering a braking zone at 500 meters.. But if you were to slow down to say 1/125 sec you might be able to convey a higher sense of speed and give the sensation that he really was moving that fast. Here is an example of a slow shutter speed of 1/90 Sec with the BMW Williams of Ralph Schumacher only moving at around 50mph. At 1/90th it looks as if he was full tilt when he really was only exiting the hairpin in Montreal.

 

Again, I like the image, but feel the larger aperture would lose more of the safety barrier to shallow DOF falloff and help make this image pop a bit more.

 

All the best,

-Norman

Sorry but it looks photoshopped to me.

I am sorry I can't be of more help with the headlight. What I see wrong is the noise in the red areas of the car where it transitions through the reflections. Did you saturate the image in or after the scan?

I try to play with different shutter speeds to see what works best. My magic number is 1/125th, but it all depends on the availabile light, the speed of your lenses (aperture) as well as focal length and if you are using a monopod. Best advice is to experiment, but don't go over 1/350 or things start to freeze.