michaelging

<p>I still shoot Tri-x as Plus-x and Verichrome Pan, are no longer made. I have found in the past that TMAX was a little to contrasty for my tastes. I still developed in D-76, and now I scan them instead of printing them in a darkroom. </p>

<p>I have tried many different straps over the years with lots of cameras, this is my favorite. It stays on your shoulder even if you bend over. http://www.upstrap-pro.com/</p>

<p>My thoughts are that you want the negative to be as thin as possible and still have shadow detail where you need it. I liked a fairly thin negative to wet print, and then I would add contrast with a enlarging paper, maybe a grade 4. It the same with scanning in a negative, I want to add the contrast with Photoshop, not with a denser negative. </p>

<p>I have a D810 and I believe the quality is very close to my scanned Happablad, Mamiya RZ67, and even 4x5 negs and transparencies. The only down side to me as a professional is that the very large files are slow in my Imac computer with only 8 gigs of Ram. I have seen photos shot on the D810 using a Hasselblad lens on with a adapter and the quality is exceptionally good. </p>

My K9 partner and myself Clark AB, Philippines 1975<div></div>

<p>Look at page 15 on the manual. http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikonos_ii.pdf</p>

<p>Its been years since I had my II but I seem to remember a lever that rotated down to keep the camera firing accidently. I may have imagined this, but check it out </p>

<p>Thanks again everyone. I am trying the free month of DXO to see how I like it and that will help me decide what program to use. I may also try CaptureOne as well. </p>

<p>Thank you everyone, I really appreciate your comments. </p>

<p>Thanks Andrew, I checked it out and it seems interesting. I may go that way, if I can't find a work around. </p>

<p>I have shot with Nikon cameras for 40 yrs, my first being a Nikon Ftn shooting film, and with a company Nikon with all the film models and now with digital. I have shot with a D3 and a D3s for the past few years as a freelancer, but have been seduced by the D810. I still open my files with Adobe bridge and work on them as RAW neff files, before converting them to Jpeg's or Tiff files. I then work on them in using Photoshop CS4 to fine tune them. The D810 files do not seem to be supported by Adobe with my CS4 other than converting them to a Dng file using the DNG converter 9.1. I have searched here and on the internet to see if there is a work around so, that I can open the files in Bridge and work on them as a full raw file. It seems to me that a DNG file does not have the full amount of latitude that a RAW file does, I may be wrong. I am willing to bite the bullet and pay Adobe $9.99 every month to have CS6 if that will be the only way to get the full potential out of my NEF files. I have tried lightroom and like the way it organizes the photos, but still like and know Bridge better. I would appreciate any feedback from any one who may help.</p> <p>Thanks</p>