r._odinal
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Posts posted by r._odinal
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I don't think it will have much of a noticable effect at all. Since you already have the filter, I'd give it a try to see first hand what the effect is, and report back with the results.
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For Dillution B, which is probably the most commonly used, it's 1:31 (syrup:water).
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I recently noticed that there's quite a few people selling
photographs of people on eBay. Many of the photos are of famous
people from past and present, like actors/actresses, musicians,
etc.<br><br>
I was curious about the legal aspects of this. Can anyone explain,
or point to a link that discusses, to what extent this is legal or
not? Do you need a release? What are the specific differences
between selling photographs that you've created versus someone
else's work (originals with credit given, not copies), etc. <br><br>
Also, any general comments about selling/buying photographs from
eBay would be welcome.
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I had success with FP4+ rated at 100 and following Photographer Formulary's development guidelines pretty much to the letter. Pre-soak for a couple minutes, develop for recommended time, distilled water stop, fix in TF4, wash in running tap water for about 20minutes. I'd say my stain was primarily green with a yellowish tint to it.
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Interesting... My right eye is dominant. I never thought about how it would be if it happened to be my left eye. Thinking about it, I guess most things about cameras favor right-handed people over lefties..... never thought about that before. As far suggestions go....I'm also nearsighted and wear eyeglasses, and find it a slight annoyance to use a normal viewfinder while wearing them. I know there's diopter correction lenses and so on, but then I have to take my glasses 'off' to focus. I figured out that's why I like using the waist-level finders on medium format SLR's... The viewing distance to the ground glass is close enough to where I can focus easily without having to think about whether I have my glasses on or off. I also don't have to worry about scratching my glasses as I press up against the cameras viewfinder. And there's no film advance lever that will hit you in the eye. I know a medium format slr is quite different from an FE2, but it's just something else to consider.
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I love the Pentax digital spotmeter for landscape stuff and Zone work. It's great having the EV readings right there as your scanning a scene thru the viewfinder ( I guess the OM4 suggestion gives you that as well ). Also carry a Sekonik 508 sometimes when I need the flexibilty to also use an incident meter, but the Pentax is a little more user-friendly. Both meters are very consistent and reliable.
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<i>>>> I have the fortune of being young enough to see great detail in slides without optical aids</i><br><br>
Hmmm... I don't know if youth is the determining factor in what you're seeing there.<br><br>
<i>>>> so I'm not especially experienced is specific products.</i>
<br><br>Not to be rude, but maybe you don't need to post then.<br><br>
<i>>>> Like a projector ;)</i>
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As far as a projector goes, notice that I am asking with regards to viewing negs as well as slides. Would you suggest.....an enlarger?
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Jim - I'll look at the Pentax loupes.<br>
<br>Thanks.
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The auto-focus "intelligence" and sensors are in the camera itself. Some cameras work better than others. There are a couple of ways in which a lens contributes. First, is the max aperture, which obviously will determine the amount of light that reaches the autofocus mechanism in the camera body and how fast focusing can be "sensed" (so faster lenses = better for autofocus). Second, as far as speed goes (independent of lighting conditions), is the size/mass of the lens which affects how fast focus can be "achieved". A small, prime lense means less mass for the motors to have to move translating into faster (albeit probably inconsequentially faster) focusing. A big, heavy 100-400mm f/5.6 zoom will be a little slower moving/focusing than a 50mm f/1.4 prime. If you depend on autofocus in low-light, get the fastest (largest max aperture) you can afford.
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I bought a 10D very early (I sold it several months ago). I buy a lot of things gray market, but not the 10D. I'm glad I did so. After about 4 months, the control wheel on the back started flaking out on me. Got it repaired at no cost (except being w/o the camera for a few weeks). BTW - that's not why I sold it.
<br><br>I buy a lot of stuff gray market, but I think with some things (like a complex DSLR) it's a safe bet to get the USA warranty.
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<i>>>> Why not get something with high magnification *and* full frame?</i><br><br>
Specific recommendations are welcome....
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Hi - I currently own a Mamiya 4x loupe (which I like) for viewing my
35mm and 120 slides and negs. I like being able to see the full
frame, but I would like higher magnification (10x or higher) for
checking sharpness,etc. I was thinking about rather than buying a
separate loupe, maybe getting a zoom - like the Mamiya 4x-12x which
would let me get rid of the current one I have. I haven't been able
to find one at any local shops to check out in person, so I was
wondering if anyone had any experience with this loupe. Other
recommedations welcome. Can zoom loupes be expected to be not as
good as primes (same generalities as with lenses)? Otherwise, I may
just go with the Schneider 10x.
Thanks.
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black and white or color? Positive or negative film?
Have you tried a search? Google?
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If it were me, I would go with Delta 3200 and probably rate it around 1600 depending on how bright the indoor lighting was.
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As already mentioned, it's not common practice to mix and store developers in their dilluted (working) form. I once mixed some HC-110 stock solution and kept it for several months with no problems. But other times I always mix from the the syrup right before use. I'd also recommend to stay away from soda bottles for storing developer.
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I've gotten a lot of great use from my Gitzo 1227 and Acratech ball head. Done a lot of work with both a Bronica GS-1 and a Hasselblad 500CM with great results. The head and the tripod are absolutely solid. The combination is also lightweight easy to setup and take down. I'm sure the Acratech would work nicely on the 1327 as well.
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There are still people shooting with glass plates. People still making platinum and palladium prints. Not that film is anywhere remotely close to approaching those processes, but for those who really desire a medium, the materials will always be there.
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How big are the enlargements you're doing? The standard 50mm prime lens is about as sharp as you can get for most 35mm SLRs. Although, not necessary bad, older zoom lenses are known to be less sharp than primes. Big enlargements will expose this. If the enlargments are only 8x10 or smaller, then that's probably not it though. Another possibility (besides defects in the glass, obviously) is if you were handholding the camera maybe the extra size/weight of the zoom caused a bit more camera shake, or maybe even the zoom setting slipped a bit between focusing and snapping the shutter?
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You get my vote for the resident Holga-Maniac, S. - and I mean that in a good way. I think it's great that you've been shooting so much with it. Keep sharing!
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I have a Bronica system now, but will be selling it and buying a Hasselblad 503cw..... soon..... but not soon enough. Not at all interested in shooting digital beyond my small digicam for casual snapshots.
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Another vote for the MiniTrekker. Great bag. Perfect size and very flexible for a body, 2-3 lenses, and a few accessories (like a light meter, filters, etc.) and some film. Good for a day long hike. I carry my tripod in it's own bag and sling that over my shoulder, though, rather than strapping it to the backpack.
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... and I'd say, unless there's a vast (although unlikely) differnece in quality, just keep the camera you're more comfortable using. It's a tool...an extension of your vision. There's nothing better than using a camera that you are intimately familiar with, fits well in your hands, has a big bright viewfinder, has well-thought out and ergonimcally placed controls, and is easy to carry around. Although I shoot mostly medium format these days; I continue to shoot and will keep my FE2 until it falls completely apart, and by then, I might have already bought another.
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You're the best person to answer your own question. Especially since you have both of the cameras and lenses. Just do a quick test by shooting the same subjects, under the same light, with the same film, same exposures, and using a tripod/cable release. Or just look at the results of all the photographs you've already taken with each camera. I would guess there's very little, if any, difference worth caring about.
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If you're having any doubt, hang on to the equipment. Sounds like you already have a complete system that you're comfortable with. Digital isn't for everyone. And as you say, having control from exposure to print can't be beat. Sending stuff to a lab and giving that up after having it, would be giving up a lot in my opinion. Obviously, you can have control with digital, but you'll have to buy a bunch of new equipment, experiment/fail, and learn a bunch of new techniques. That might be fun for some people. Personally, being fairly comfortable with both traditional printing and photoshop, I prefer to work in the wet darkroom rather than in front of a computer screen.
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Thank you! I'm glad to hear there are other people who feel as I do about this topic. My day job is spent as an engineer writing code and doing way too much other stuff in front of a computer screen. Photography is a hobby and a way to get a way from the computer (as well as the television, phones, day-to-day hassles, world news, etc.). If my only choice was digital photography and photoshop, I honestly wouldn't be nearly interested in it to the same degree I am now. I do some digital stuff, but film (especially B&W) dominates my work. Of course, there's also the superior quality of medium format and the "look" and controls offered by traditional B&W processes. Long live film!
Selling photographs on eBay
in Business of Photography
Posted
I tend to agree that the sales of fine art on ebay (or the lack of it) is really an indication of people's faith in ebay... Dropping 4-figures or more on a fine art print without even seeing it first, is basically asking for trouble... even your most primitive ebay'er should have enough smarts to know that ( I hope ). Then again, the volume of sales for photographs of scantily clad celebrities and the like.... well, that's certainly an indicator of what types of buyers are out there and their tastes (or maturity/intelligence level).<br><br>
Regarding the "papparazzi" guy selling stuff....I was thinking the same thing...that there are people that seem to be making some nice coin w/o the expense of royalties, studios, models, etc. I guess as long as nobody complains (or files a lawsuit), then you can get away with it. Risk vs. Reward?