nghi_hoang

I would love to submit and work along with you guys, but I only have one light. Still, this has been great fun and very educational. I am learning a ton. Thank you very much!

The 180 W-N is an incredibly sharp lens. I have it and use it often for portrait. Some of my "clients" complain about the details that show up in prints. I have read that the 140 is designed specifically for macro work and not as good as the non-macro lens for portrait. I have the 110 and use it for full body portrait with the 180 for tighter crop. I vote for the 180 W-N.

 

-Nghi

Three cheers for NAS!

 

I cant speak for the FM3A. I only touched it once when I was still in college, working for the photography department. However, I would vote for the F100. I have an N80. A few weeks ago, I traded my camera with my cousin for a week. He has the F100. Both cameras operate pretty much the same. However, the viewfinder of the F100 blew me away. It is so darn bright! So now I am saving up for an F100 (and not even going to think about digital!). I'm not sure if this will help you in your decision. Just my $0.02.

If you are serious about doing macro work, there is no substitute for a dedicated macro lens and a set of extension tubes. I have the Nikon 105 f/2.8 AFD and a set of Kenko extension tubes and a Nikon PB-6 bellow. Regarding focal length, I am quite happy with my Nikkor. Sometimes, I do wish I have more working distance, but the 200 f/4 price tag doesn't justify the few occassions I wish I have it.

 

-Nghi

I would like to put in a plug for Markin ballheads, the M10 and M20. I have the M10 and use it with my Nikon and Mamiya 67. It is very, very well made, if not to say superb! I have only been using it a few days now, but I can tell you that it is one of the best tool I have ever bought!

<P>

I'd urge you to have a look at the Markins. Click <a href="http://www.nikonians.org/">here</a>.

The RZ has an emergency setting where you can shoot with a dead battery. The shutter will be released mechanically. That was what the camear was set at until I realized something was wrong. It always makes me feel silly thinking about this event. A good opportunity to laugh at myself.

Garry, I have never left the lever on M for more than the shots I need! :) I don't think I am more organize than you though. But I did manage to shoot half a roll with the dark slide in! LOL

 

Joe, Congrats on the new RZ Pro II. It's a awesome camera. I sure love mine!

I think this rocks too! Thank you!

Ah! Disappointment. I am still a film guy. Oh well!

If it beats the 17-35 f/2.8 AFS, then it makes a great two-lens outfit with the 70-200 AFS or 80-200 AFD. I was considering getting the 28-70 f/2.8 AFS, but maybe not with this announcement. I don't think missing the 15mm between 55mm and 70mm is going to be a big deal. Ah! Weight reduction! Nice!

 

Still, having the 28-70 AFS would still be nice because of its range for certain applications like people photography.

Anyone knows where the wildflowers are blooming in Northern

California/Bay Area? We just had a ton of rain and really nice

weather afterward. The flowers probably are coming out after the

winter. Thank you!

 

-Nghi

I checked the price of the glass film holders. They are expensive! What are they? Hard plastic + glass? Has anyone tried making their own?

 

I also looked at the Minolta. Only 3200dpi for MF. Interpolated to 4800. The Minolta is out of consideration.

 

Thanks for the information guys. How big is a 6x7 scan @ 16bits anyway? I wonder if my PC would be able to handle the file.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Anyone else?

 

-Nghi

Hi folks,

 

I am considering getting a MF film scanner. The Nikon Coolscan

9000ED comes to mind. Is anyone using this scanner? Would you

share with me your experience regarding quality, performance, etc?

I shoot with a Mamiya RZ67II and have a bunch of slides I would like

to digitize for large output. I've been looking for review of this

scanner online, but haven't been succesful at all. Thanks in

advance!

 

-Nghi

Kent,

 

You should get a dedicated film scanner, like a Canon FS4000US or Minolta 5400. I have the FS4000US and love it. I paid $650 for it. In about a few months, it paid for itself. I have had it for almost a year and don't even want to think about the cost of getting my scans done at a pro lab.

 

Russ,

 

My FS4000US on a SCSI card scans a frame at 4000dpi @ 64bits about a bit over a minute. I sometimes use multiple passes for a frame. Just did one with 3 passes now. Under 5 minutes. If you are using USB, you might want to check into getting a SCSI card. I got mine from eBay for $8.00+3.95SH.

 

-Nghi

I can't speak for the RB because I don't own one. I use an RZ Pro II with a 110mm and a 180mm for landscape work. The 110mm is a wonderful lens. Although I don't use the f/2.8 aperature on that lens very often, it has proven useful on a number of occasions. The 180mm is incredibly sharp and double as a fine portrait lens. I bought the 180mm after I bought the RZ kit. If I was to do it again, I would go with the 50mm ULD first before buying into the longer focal lengths. You might want to check with Mamiya for the release of their 43mm lens, if you want really wide angle.

 

If you are not going to get the prism finder with built in meter, you need to also consider getting an external meter such as a Sekonic or Minolta. I use a Sekonic L608 with my RZ. That is pretty much my setup in the field - RZ, 120 back, 110mm, 180mm, WLF and the L608 Sekonic.

 

Since I also use a Nikon SLR system, I can say that I love the RZ rotating back! It is simply wonderful not having to flip the camera to change composition.

 

-Nghi

Thanks guys. I wish I could lug around a ton of weight, but I can't due to a knee injury. My MF gear consists of the RZ body, WLF, 120 back and two lenses, 110mm and 180mm. Besides those things, I sometimes add an extension tube and a few filters. I am not sure how much all that weighs, but their combined weight seems to equal my old Bogen 3221 and 3047 pan head together. The tripod + pan head comes in at 10 lbs. I can cut this weight in more than half if I go with a Gitzo 1227 + Markin M10. Besides, there are other things I need to carry with me when I hike (i.e. food, tent, first-aid kit, flash light, etc.).

 

It is true that the Gitzo seems even more sturdier if there is something heavy hanging underneath from the center column's hook. Dont' forget, the RZ has a pseudo mirror-lock-up mode (i.e. fire the mirror first before the shutter release).

 

From what you guys say, it seems that not many use the 1227/1228 for the RZ or other MF camera for that matter.

I was at Calumet today and discovered the Gitzo CF tripod - the

1228. The guy I talked with mentioned the 1227 as well. From the

specifications provided by Gitzo, the 1228 is ideal for

treking/hiking because it is light, short when fully collapsed, and

support as much weight as the 1227 (17.9 lbs). I did not get a

chance to play with the 1227, but from the specification sheet it is

longer when fully collapsed and has 3 sections instead of 4 like the

1228. I am wondering anyone is using either of the Gitzo 1227/1228

with a Mamiya RZ67 ProII or comparable camera? Since the tripod is

so light! I am questioning whether or not it can securely support

such a heavy MF camera. I am leaning more toward the 1228 since it

seems to be ideal for hiking and travel. Thanks!

 

-Nghi

I second the opinion for an iOne Display unit. I use one to calibrate my CRT every two weeks and/or before a critical task such as editing my parents' old wedding photos. The unit pays for itself after a few instances of usage.

I read the page published by Ken Rockwell on his website. He advocates the Nikon CP filter and does not seem to think too highly of the B+W or Hoya. I find that interesting. From what I read, B+W is the best third-party filter maker. Hoya is also reputable.

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If Ken Rockwell and Shun do not see vignetting using a Nikon CP filter on the 17-35 AFS, then I am going to try to get my hands on one and field test it with my lens.

<P>

I have a Nikon CP filter with 52mm thread for my 105mm Micro Nikkor. I really like that filter and use it once in a while when I feel that the condition calls for it. Because of this, I am pursuing the larger brother before I consider the third-party alternatives.

<P>

Many thanks for all the suggestions and information! Keep them coming!

<P>

Nghi

Carl,

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Indeed, I am considering one of the Nikon CP filters. Perhaps I should have just copied and pasted the B&H page. It seems, according to B&W, that Nikon makes two polarizers. One is a slim version. I have seen and used a Nikon 77mm CP filter once, but this was before I bought the Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8 AFS. It was pretty thick and the diameter is larger than the 77mm filter thread. I remember there was a filter thread on the CP filter. From that experience and impression, I really liked the Nikon filter. It was very well made! That is why I want to buy a Nikon CP filter instead of a B+W one.

<P>

Nghi

Hi,<p>

 

B&H lists two Nikon CP filters <a

href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

A=search&Q=&b=2&a=27_307&a=35_201&shs=&ci=115&Submit.x=47&Submit.y=15"

>here.</a> Does anyone know (from first hand experience if possible)

which version will not vignette with the Nikkor 17-35 f/2.8 AFS at

the 17mm end?

<p>

I am considering a CP filter and would like to get a Nikon. B+W is

the other option if the Nikon will vignette.

<p>

Thank you,

<p>

Nghi

Shun, I know that ~$100 is reasonable. I just can't spend that kind of money for two reasons: (1) the lens didn't cost much more than that and (2) there is a budget. The cost of the lens and the repair cost almost equate the cost of a new "grey-market" lens from B&H.

 

Thanks for letting me know how much Nikon USA usually charges.

I spoke to Jacob. He wants somewhere around $100+ to service the lens. There is no way I could afford that when I bought the lens for not much more than that quote. Jacob was very nice. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

It's sad, but I am returning the lens to the seller. Maybe I will get better luck next time around.

 

-Nghi

And I think I have NAS! After reading this thread, I have a long way to go to reach a state where I could even think of having NAS. You guys are hilarious! Maybe I should just order a F100 from BH and ditch my semi-functional N80. Hmmm

I am putting in another vote for the Nikkor 50 f/1.8 lens. Excellent lens that costs relatively little when it comes to Nikon optics.