nghi_hoang

I?ve a Lowepro Photo Trekker for carrying my MF gear (Mamiya RZ67II,

four lenses, light meter, and accessories). The bag has served me

well, but I am searching for a more light weight solution because it

weighs as much as the gear. With the tripod and ball head attached,

the whole setup is quite heavy. It is somewhat prohibited for long

hikes, especially with an injured knee. I want to reduce the weight

of the bag as much as possible without sacrificing too much on the

protection front. I'd like to know what people might be using to

solve this weight problem. Thanks in advance

Maybe this will help since you mentioned product shot. I was in the studio yesterday shooting a flower from my parents's garden. My equipment isn't too different from what you are going to get. I use an RZ67 ProII and a White Lightning X1600 monolight. The WL X1600 had a white translucent umbrella in front of its 7" reflector and was placed about two feet away from the subject. My Sekonic L-608 told me that at maximum power the WL X1600 allowed me to shoot at f45. I needed and wished for more light because I was racking the bellow on the RZ67 out all the way and adding a 82mm extension tube on top of that. The extension costs me two stops of light. Personally, my next monolight is going to be the X3200. If not that, I am going to buy Speedotron Black-Line gear.

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As for small groups, I have yet to want more light with the X1600. Then again, I usually use Portra 400NC, NPH, or NPS and f/8 - f/11 for this sort of assignment.

I was in the studio yesterday shooting a flower with my RZ67 ProII,

extension tube no. 2 (82mm) and lenses ranging from 65mm to 180mm.

At magnification approaching 1:1 and slightly beyond, focusing by

moving the tripod back and forth was very difficult. It took quite a

bit of time, but I got it in the end. I wished I had a macro

focusing rail. I'm wondering which focusing rail would be able to

handle the <b>weight</b> of the above set up?

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It would be nice if the rail is compatible with Arca-style QR

system. RRS's B150 focusing rail, although undoubtedly very nice, is

too expensive for me. Novoflex's focusing rack "L" is compatible

with Arca-style QR system, but has a proprietary QR system for

attaching the camera. I don't want to get into another QR system and

have to buy plates all over again.

I've been reading the many portrait lighting threads in the forum and

have this question. Is it possible to setup the main and fill lights

only once for a portrait session and still achieve properly-lighted

portraits as the model strikes different poses? If this is possible,

what happens if there is a group of two or more people?

I'd choose a Mamiya RZ67 ProII. I asked the same question a long while back and ended up with the RZ67 ProII. I like the rotating back, ability to change film midroll, bellow focusing, sharp and contrasty lenses, high flash sync speed, and the big 6x7 negatives/chromes.

I'd vote for the 110mm Sekor Z as a first RZ lens. I haven't used the 127mm f3.5 so I can't speak for it, but the 110mm Sekor Z was what I started with. It is a very sharp lens and also very versatile. I have done one-person portrait, group shot, family portrait, macro, and landscape with this lens. I think you would want to expand your lens collection in the future. The 127mm seems an odd ball in the focal range. Personally, I bought a 65mm, 180mm, and 250mm in that order. Hope this helps.

When I do night photography, my subjects usually have patches of

light large enough for the spot meter built into my Sekonic L608

lightmeter. It is not going to be this easy this time because my

subject is a giant Christmas tree (60 feet tall) covered with tiny

light bulbs. There is not any patch of light large enough for the

spotmeter. Does anyone have any metering technique suggestion or

rough exposure values that I should use as a starting point before

bracketing in both directions? Should I point the ambient dome at

the tree and use whatever value I get (assuming there is enough light

for the lightmeter to read)? I can get to about six feet away from

the tree. I'll be shooting with an RZ67 II and Provia 100.

I use my SB28 with the Mamiya RZ67 ProII often and so far so good.

I can't attach the picture to the msg can I!?

I elected to buy a plastic box to store the filters. Looking at the picture, which is attached, the filters are less likely to be scratched base on the design of the box. It costs an arm and a leg though! I bought it from a retailer on ebay.

I was out tonight shooting with my RZ67 ProII and the Sekor Z 250mm

f/4.5 W. On two occassions my WLF became dark after I have handled

the camera while moving from one position to another. When I looked

into the lens from the front, the shutter was closed all the way.

Strange! I did not press the shutter release button both time. This

is a used lens I bought about two weeks ago. Tonight was the first

time I have some free time to test it in the field. I took three

long-exposure shots (4s, 8s, and 8s). I checked the time against my

watch and they seemed to be right. Does anyone have any insight into

what might be wrong with the lens?

I am interested in buying MIS Associates aftermarket cartridges for my

Epson 1280 (<a

href="http://www.inksupply.com/index.cfm?source=html/cartsale.html">link</a>).

I wonder about the quality of cartridges and the inks because I don't

want to damage my printer. Does anyone have any experience with these

cartridges?

Does anyone know if the RZ67 infrared remote transmitter/receiver will

work with the RZ67 Pro II?

I finally bought a few Hitech Graduated ND filters for my Cokin P

holder for use with my RZ67 ProII. The filters seem very fragile.

I would like to store them in better container than the plastic bag

each of them came in. How do you store your Cokin P filters for

field work? Thanks!

The funny thing is that my N70, which I gave to a friend, has had no problem what-so-ever since the day it was bought in 1997. It is still going strong the last time I talked to my friend.

Well, my N80 is a lemon too. It has been back to Nikon service twice for scratching film on the non-emulsion side. I got it back last week and will take it for a field test this weekend when I have a bit more time. Additionally, it sporadically shuts itself down, even after a fresh set of batteries. From time to time, the view finder refuses to stay on after I let go of the shutter release (custom setting is set for 8 seconds before it turns off). I hope Nikon fixes it this time. If not, I might have to consider an F100 or even an F5.

 

Good luck with your N80 all the same.

Studio still-life on a budget. This diagram illustrates my light set up for the second shot above. It isn't the most professional, but fun.<div></div>

Playing again tonight. Different approach this time. How did I do?<div></div>

Playing during my study break. One White Lightning X1600 with white satin 45" umbrella about 2' from subjects. That umbrella in the highlight really botheres me, but that is all the studio equipment I have. Need a large soft box. Shot with a Canon A70. This is fun!<div></div>

I don't think the Nova soft boxes are made by Redwing. The Calumet Illuma soft boxes are made by Redwing as indicated by this quote from Calumet's website:

 

<ul><i>

Please Note: Calumet Illuma boxes and Redwing Cumulus boxes are manufactured in the same facility with the same technical specifications. You may receive either brand when ordering a Calumet Illuma soft box. If you would prefer to receive a specific branded soft box, please notify us and we will make every attempt to satisfy your request.

</i></ul>

There are discussions of Redwing soft boxes in the archive that I read, but no reference to the Nova soft boxes that I could find.

Calumet is having a promotion for their <a

href="http://www.calumetphoto.com/syrinx/ctl?

PAGE=Controller&ac.ui.pn=cat.SpeedSearchPromo&promoKey=715&type=F3">

Nova soft boxes</a>. I am thinking of getting a medium (23" x 29")

and a small soft box (16" x 20") to do table-top still life and

macro photography. Originally, I planned to buy Photoflex (can't

afford Chimera), but with this promotion, I can save some money

(still a student here). I plan to put the medium soft box on my

White Lightning X1600 Monolight and the small soft box on my Nikon

SB28.

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My questions:

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1. If you have experience with Calumet Nova softboxes, can you

speak of their quality (built, light output, etc.)?

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2. Are the sizes of the medium and small soft boxes enough for what

I want to do (still life & macro photography)?

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Thank you!

Bill, this is awesome. Thank you! I don't have the Bees, but the White Lightning X series. Still, this is very helpful.

These Lighting Theme threads are awesome. I tried short lighting once a while back, shooting my parents. It was a success, but I ran into a problem that has bothered me for a long time. Everytime the models changed pose, I had to readjust my lights to suit the new pose. Sometimes, the readjustment was moving the lights a few inches in one direction. Others, it was almost like setting up for the first time. I wonder if the pros also have to do what I did or is there a certain way to have the model changes pose without having to readjust the lights. I'd love to hear what could be done (or not). Thanks.

I use an Intuos2 6x8. A while back, I had the same question as you. I considered both the Graphire and the Intuos. I can't speak for the Graphire because I have not used it extensively. I love my Intuos2. It is probably one of the best pieceses of hardware that I have invested in. It makes working with photoshop a joy, especially when you want to make very discriminating selection, burning/dodging, etc. I like the fact that the Intuos2 has a lifetime warranty and the fine grandients of pen pressure on the pad.

 

In college, I dabbled in the Arts and got used to drawing and painting with the arm instead of just the wrist. This makes the 4x5 too small and the 6x8 perfect. I can't imagine using anything larger than 6x8 for photo editing though. If you paint with your tablet and the bigger size is almost a requirement.

 

I put in four USB 2.0 ports at the front of my computer and plug in the tablet whenever I need it. For other non-photo applications not needing the Intuos, I unplug it and put it in a drawer and go back to my trusty mouse.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Nghi

If Yaron is right that beginners favor the wide angle perspective then I suppose I am still a beginner. I absolutely love my 17-35 f/2.8 AFS. Like Shun, I was more interested in the telephotos lenses when I first started because they look awesome and they allow you to bring the distant objects right up to your nose in the view finder. However, I always wanted big glass when it comes to telephotos so that infatuation phase passed with me only getting to 200mm with my 80-200 f/2.8 AFD. The next thing I discovered was macro photography. The 105 is still one of my most used focal lengths (but am not sure if this counts because of the nature of close-up work). After eight years of shooting, I don't have a preference for a focal length. I just pick whatever focal length that will give me the composition I want. Am I still a beginner? Oh yes! But I have a ton of fun! Now, if I can afford that 200-400 AFS VR monster Nikon just released!