magicord

<p>Also, they said the flash was converted to DIGITAL and it has a label "DIGITAL" above the model name on the front of the flash. Was this a retro-fit by Quantum? Are there any X2 which is not a "DIGITAL" model?</p>

<p>I saw a Quantum X2 for sale on the net but it was described as been set up to fit Lumedyne 067Qpower pack. Does this mean I cannot use it on the original Qpaq-X module? If not, is there a way to change back to fit Qpaq-X? Thanks.</p>

<p>I would like to ask your opinion on how to set up manual flashes for Macro. I am into underwater photography and the housing I have does not have TTL bulkhead. I have two SB104 strobes. Camera is Nikon F3 and lens AI Micro 105mm f/2.8. Thanks.</p>

<p>First of all thank you all of you for your valuable input. I really hope that the discussion can be made in a calm and non-personal attacking way. <br>

The reason why I asked the question is that I am thinking of getting a macro lens for underwater photography. Breathing is something I would think about for the underwater environment where the positioning of the camera can be limited.</p>

<p>Basically all of my shooting up to today have been done using available light. I was too lazy to learn to use flash lighting. But now I am considering learning flash photography as my girlfriend would like to go into portrait and wedding photography and I am taking up outdoor macro and underwater photography. All these types of shooting require competency in using flashes. My girlfriend uses Canon digital SLR and I use several medium format cameras and some "vintage" equipment with no TTL capability. Because we have all together several different camera system, we are thinking of not getting dedicated TTL flashes even though some of our cameras is TTL compatible. Instead we would like to get flashes with auto function so that we don't have to buy different flashes for different cameras. I know you can get flashes with SCA modules to suit different cameras. We just want to standardize and simplify the operation. My question is: Can I get good results by using flashes in Auto or even in manual? Is TTL a must?</p>

<p>Thank you guys for your input. I would like to make a summary below to see if I have fully understood everything written above:<br>

For the particular combination F100 + AF Micro 60mm f/2.8D<br>

1) I won't get manual override when the lens is auto-focusing.<br>

2) To focus the lens in AF mode, the M-A ring must be in A position and the body selector must be in S or C position.<br>

3) To focus the lens in MF mode, the M-A ring must be in M position. The body selector can be in any position.<br>

4) If the M-A ring is in A position and the body selector in M position, you cannot focus the lens manually.</p>

<p>Am I correct?</p>

<p>The reason I am asking this is I am looking at getting a underwater housing for the F100 to do underwater photography. There are several ports that I can choose from. Ports are the housing for the lens with a window at the end. Some ports do not have the facility to turn the M-A ring but some do. I have to make sure I understand the focusing mechanism before I decide which port is for me.</p>

 

<p>Second senerio: if I leave the M-A ring on the lens in the A position. Now I turn the focus mode selector on the front of the camera to M, can I manual focus the lens like a manual lens?</p>

 

<p>I would like to ask a question regarding MF and AF on some of the Nikon AF lenses that have the M-A ring (not the M-A sliding switch). I am referring to an AF Micro 60mm f/2.8D on a F100 body.<br>

Can I have manual focus override when the M-A ring is in A position?<br>

If not, and I would like to manual override the focusing, I need to turn the M-A ring to M position, right? And do I need to move the focus mode selector on the front of the camera to M? <br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>A lot of reviews mentioned that the Nikkor AF-S VR Mirco 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED breathes quite significantly (i.e. image size changes as you focus). I would like to ask those who have used the older AF 105mm f/2.8D and this newer lens, does the older AF-D lens have the same degree of lens breathing? Thanks.</p>

<p>Many thanks to all of you! </p>

<p>Sorry that I didn't make my question very clear as I still do not understand fully what the alphabets mean on a Nikon lens. What I am asking was the G type lenses, i.e. those without aperture rings. Can I still use them on F5/F100? If yes, how can I adjust the aperture? Thanks again.</p>

 

<p>Can AF-S lenses be used on F-5/F100 bodies? I don't see an aperture ring on AF-S lenses.</p>

<p>Can the New F-1 use Quantum Flash QF X5d-R? If yes, do I need a dedicated adaptor? Thanks.</p>

 

<p>Hi all,<br>

I am taking up underwater photography and would like ask a question on the compatibility of the Nikonos SB-104 Flashight and Nikon F3 in an Aquatica housing with Nikonos TTL bulkhead. I would like to know if this arrangement makes full use of the TTL capability of the Flashlight.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Hi Larry,</p>

<p>Can these renewed batteries be charged with the original Rollei charger C? Where did you get your Cellpro charger? And how is this charger connected to the battery? Thanks,</p>

 

<p>Hi Larry,</p>

<p>Can these renewed batteries be charged with the original Rollei charger C? Where did you get your Cellpro charger? And how is this charger connected to the battery? Thanks,</p>

 

Dear all,

 

Can I use the Jobo Expert drum 3010 on Jobo's roller base J1509? If yes, how? Thanks.

Dear All,

 

Can anyone list out those Canon EF lenses that feature FTMF function? Thank you very much.

Yes, clear on negative and black on slide. The shutter would not fire when it is too bright.

I know it has limitation, but would have thought it will overexpose when it is too bright.

Apparently the shutter does not fire when it is too bright in my camera (as checked by

looking through from behind shutter).

I have a Lomo LC-A (with screen printed Lomo Boy) which works fine in fixed Aperture modes. In A

mode, when the light is not too bright, it works fine too. The problem appears when shooting in bright

light conditions. e.g. ISO 25 pointing to the sun or a bright light source or ISO 400 shooting open sky.

The shutter doesn't fire in these conditions. Yes, it clicks but looking from the back of the camera with

cover open, I don't see the shutter open at all. When pointing to less bright object, it works again. It

bothers me so much as I constantly get black frames (unexposed) now and then and I have no way to

tell when it is too bright (unless I test with a light meter). Is it something wrong with my camera or is it

just designed to be like this?

Can anyone share their opinions on the best 50m f/2? Thanks.

For some items, they have both parallel-imported items and official imported items. They will tell you which one you are buying even before you ask.

 

I have bought about US$25000 worth of equipment from them. Never have a problem.

Would anyone please tell me if the 4x5 Tri-X 320 is the same as 120 Tri-X 320 or

similar to 120 Tri-X 400 or is totally different. Thanks.

Thank you all of you for your valuable input. Very much appreciated. Like I said in the opening post, I have both systems and enjoy using each one. So this thread is not about N vs C as a whole. I just wanted information and comments on one particular lens in each brand used in wildlife shooting.

 

Thank you again.

Hi all,

 

I would like to see how you wild life guys compare the Nikon and Canon 600mm/F4

(both the latest versions). I would like to hear particular from those who have

used both. Please refrain from those general N and C arguments (you know what i

mean :-). I have both systems. I will like to hear comments on these two

lenses only. Thanks.