magicord

<p>I have an Arca Field with metric orbix and 141 rear standard. I understand that the orbix tilts the front along the mid point of the lens if the front standard is at the zero rise/fall point. But where is this zero point? My rise/fall scale doesn't show the zero point and there is not a detent.<br>

Could anyone help?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I have been shooting film cameras mainly with available light with occasional flash lighting using a set of Elinchrom Ranger Quadra set. Recently I am going into macro nature photography using Nikon F5, Canon EOS 1V, Hasselblad 503CXi, and Pentax 67 II. I have one Canon 580EXII and would like to get a set of Macro flash lights (twin on a bracket?) so that I can use them on all of my cameras above. But I found that now Metz only make dedicated flash for Nikon or Canon which cannot be converted to other systems. I am asking if there is flash suitable for macro using SCA adapter to match different systems? Also for Macro Gurus, do you use TTL or Manual flashes for Macro? Thank you.</p>

<p>Thank you for the advice. My F5 is was not bought in US and I don't live in US now. Can I still send it in? Nikon Hong Kong would not repair it as they don't have the parts any more. I prefer dealing with a private service center.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>My Nikon F5 needs repair. The LCD display inside the view finder doesn't display 1/3 from the left hand side toward the right hand end. Do you know any good service centres (in US) who can repair this? Thank you.</p>

<p>I have a Minolta Spotmeter F which has problem of the LCD display screen inside the viewfinder. I am talking about the little screen showing just the f/ stops inside the view finder, not the big panel on the side of the meter. The last digit of the screen has lost the "ink" so it is not readable. Does anyone know where I can get it fixed?</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>For those who use Pentax 67 big big super big lenses, how do you compare the black 800mm f/4 Takumar and the white 800mm f/6.7 ED lenses. I know the former is super super heavy but other than that (and the preset aperture), how are they differ in performance? Both of them are offered in a local camera shop with similar price. I would like to ask you guys' opinion which one is a better lens to have.<br>

Thank you.</p>

 

<p>Thank you everyone for your input. The lenses that I am considering are Goerz 6", 8.5", 12" and 19".</p>

<p>Thank you guys for your valuable input, as always.<br>

I asked the question because I am offered several 8x10 lenses for a good deal. I have plan to move onto the larger format later and am thinking if it makes sense to buy these lenses now for 4x5 and 8x10.. If it is better to use 4x5 lenses on 4x5 cameras, I would forget about these lenses and get 4x5 lenses now. When I grow up to 8x10, then I will buy 8x10 lenses. If it is the same, I may take up the offer now and use these lenses for 4x5 now and 8x10 in the future.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you Allen. How about optical differences?</p>

<p>Is there any differences using 8x10 lenses compared to 4x5 lenses of the same focal length on 4x5 cameras? Obviously, the 8x10 lenses have much larger image circle. Is there any other difference? Lenses of the same focal length on 8x10 are most of the time wide angle design. When used as long focal length on 4x5, are they the same as dedicated 4x5 lenses on 4x5 cameras?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Sorry, typo error. Should reads 500 seriese bodies.</p>

<p>I have almost the whole set of Hassy V lenses + 905 SWC + several 500 series body. I also have many Pentax 67 lenses. If you were me, would you choose Pentax 645D or CFV39, and why?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Many thanks, Edward. Your info is of great help!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you Edward for your reply. I am thinking of changing the bulkhead from EO type to Nikonos type. I have upload a picture of the Nikonos type bulkhead from Aquatica. Do you think this is will solve my problem assuming the thread size is correct. How do you waterproof the bulkhead/housing interface? Silicon glue?<br>

<img src="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images345x345/212313.jpg" alt="" width="345" height="345" /></p>

<p>I have an old Aquatica A3 housing for Nikon F3. The bulkheads on the housing are the female EO connector type. I am wondering if there exists a kind of sync cable with a male EO connector on one end and a standard Nikonos connector to plug into a Nikonoss SB-104 or SB-105 on the other end. If not, can I change the EO Connector bulkheads to a standard Nikonos bulkheads using Aquatica parts? Anyone tried this conversion? I have asked Aquatica regarding the A3 housing but they don't seem to have any information on it. Does anyone know if the current Aquatica Nikonos type Bulkheads have the same thread as the EO female connectors?</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for your input. Looks like I have to give in to digital from now. </p>

<p>Hi, Rick, I have checked with ColourSix and they only do Lambda prints. Not sure about Excellent Colour. Do you have they contacts? Thanks.</p>

<p>I haven't done slide shooting for a while but I managed to shoot several rolls of velvia 50 last month. I have chosen several frames that are going to be enlarged on paper. However, I was shocked to find out that no one here (in Hong Kong) is doing the direct enlargement. They all do scanning the film and then do a digital output. Do you know if there is anyone on earth still doing the direct prints (is it called Cibachrome or something else?) Thank you.</p>

<p>Why do my Polaroid TZ film shot outdoor in daylight have very heavy green cast? Temperature was of a high side (30 deg C or 86 F) and the film were a bit overdue. Exp 2009.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Lee Filters produces both the normal lens mounts and the wide angle lens mounts in various sizes. However, I can only find one type of mount for Hasselblad Bayonet 60mm. Will this mount OK to use on the 903/905 SWC camera? I found the mount plus the holder kind of "think" compared to wide angle lens mount of other sizes. <br>

Also how do you guys use a polarizing and graduating filter on the SWC?</p>

<p>In the process of fixing a locked-up, I dismantled the main knob of the B1 by removing the moon-shaped disc and the allen head lock screw. After the ballhead was fixed, I reassembled the knob. I then noticed that the big brass nut on the ballhead body and the black drive shaft are both hexagonal shape and they turn together in sync with the knob. However, I don't know where to set the brass nut and the drive shaft when the knob is locked onto position. Now I have a lot of play when the knob is turned out of the locked position. Can someone tell me how to align the brass nut and the drive shaft in order to correctly install the knob back to the ballhead?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Suppose I am taking a portrait in a studio. I set two strobe, 45 degree from front on left and right respectively. If the GN of both manual strobes is let's say 48m and I place both strobe equal diatance at 3m from subject.<br>

If I am using only one strobe, I would have set the aperture to f/16, right?<br>

If I would like equal lighting from both side (45 degree from front), should I set the aperture to f/32 because we have two strobes now?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have the Polaroid 545 holder. Do you know whereI can still get Polapan film these days? I am looking at getting the Fujifilm PA45 film holder to replace Polaroid as the Fujifilm instant films are still available. But they have two sizes, the FP-100B and the FP-100B45 for the B&W. The size difference looks minimal. Can they both good in the PA45 holder for 4x5 cameras? Have anyone used Fujifilm and how good are they?</p>

<p>Where can I still find these films? Thanks.</p>

<p>Which one is better? Is the senor limit function on QX2d a useful function?</p>

<p>I would like to ask if there is a way to mount the Elinchrom Ranger Quadra Flash head on a hot shoe. Thanks</p>