goulden

hi greg, I do this kind of stuff all the time and the answers to your questions are:

 

1) charge what you feel is fair for doing maybe two hours shooting, two hours post production, and what is fair for the band (if they're unsigned etc)

 

I'd say a starting point would be ?100 to ?300 depending on your skill

 

2) your equipment is fine if you know how to use it, I've shot bands at 200mm and also at 10mm on my various lenses. Knowing how to light always helps and halogen lamps are a cheap way to try things out.

 

3) shoot pictures that you like and what the band portray to you, whilst also keeping the bands wants and needs in mind.

 

they may want to look similar in style to bands they love so ask them who they like the style of and research that bands look etc etc

 

4) post your pics up afterwards so we can help critique

thanks for that, i was looking for some personal opinion on labs people have used that give good results

anybody know any labs in the UK who offer online print ordering on Fuji Pearl paper?

as a music photographer who also shoots in venues with virtually no light ad having used both lenses you ask about:

 

- the canon is a little faster in low light when trying to autofocus

- the canon feels a little better built but that makes no difference to your pictures

- the sigma is way cheaper, so you could buy something like a 50mm f1.4 or 30mm f1.4 kind of lens

 

if i was to choose again, i'd buy the canon as it's a long term investment for me and i plan on using the lens for many years to come. and at this point in it's life it's already paid for itself

i had a mack warranty i bought in the usa on my 20D

 

i live in ireland and after 2 and a half years my shutter died. mack got me to send my camera to canon ireland and it was fixed and they paid for everything.

kenmore have been very helpful and may be using them. i've bought off b&h in the past but need to buy something next tuesday as i'm flying in and want to pick it up and go shoot immediately

just wondering if any washington folk know if any camera shops in seattle have

stocks of the canon 40D or is it on backorder everywhere

answer is no

 

but that makes no difference as dpi is irrelevant until you come to printing

 

read this : http://www.photo.net/learn/resize/

 

and you'll learn that dpi is pretty much a hangover from film scanning times and need not be worried about. all you need to worry about are the number of pixels

 

now read this again: http://www.photo.net/learn/resize/

how are you getting the images from your camera to the computer. it sounds like human error and not saving the cr2 files properly with whatever application you're using

 

if you put the card in a card reader, i'd be 99.9% certain you won't have this problem

Javad> either camera will get you brilliant photographs if you are a brilliant photographer. Both will take terrible photos in the hands of a terrible photographer

 

short answer, either camera. there's nothing that one of them can do really well that the other can't. go to a shop, have a play with one, and buy whichever feels most comfortable in your hands and which has the best price for your budget

I'm in a similar position. It does seem a rather strange rule that you need to know other pros before you can join.

 

are you doing photography full time as i think that's the only way you're allowed to join?

i already agree with some of the points made. anything else?

 

we have only shot two weddings so our stock of shots to put into the portfolio is a little low

We've been doing music photography for years, but we're venturing out of the

often wet cold muddy deafening photo pits to churches.<br>

<br>

Have a read and look at:<br>

<a href = "http://AAAphotos.org/weddings/">AAAphotos.org/weddings</a><br>

<br>

and let me know what you think of the information/prices and lastly the

pictures.<br> Mainly want to hear if you think we're saying anything wrong or

confusing.<br>

<br>

I'll probably make the text into several clickable sections so it doesn't just

look like a huge block of text<br>

<br>

Concert Photography is what I do. The lenses I use are, in order of preference<br>

<br>

24-70 f2.8 - works in small to large venues, fast<br>

50mm f1.4 - super fast, works in the darkest of venues<br>

70-200 f2.8 - good for big venues, rarely use it in small venues<br>

10-22 f3.5 - gets great results if used wisely<br>

<br>

<br>

taken with 70-200:<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3593301-lg.jpg"><br>

<br>

<br>

taken with 24-70<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3668874-lg.jpg"><br>

<br>

<br>

taken with 10-22<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3421129-lg.jpg"><br>

<br>

<br>

taken with 50mm<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/2892142-lg.jpg"><br>

<br><br>

<a href = "http://aaaphotos.org">AAAphotos.org</a>

It all depends what you're shooting and what you do with your pictures. for me in low light concerts a it's the only lens i can use in certain conditions and get a sharp bright image at 1600 or 3200

 

i also use the dof abilities of it to totally blur a background out and you can't do that any other way, obviously you loose sharpness of the subject but it's simply a trade off between the two.

 

to finish: a slightly soft picture is better than no picture at all

did they pay you for doing the shoot initially, did they commission you to shoot them or did you just ask them if you could shoot them?<br>

<br>

Do you sell your photographic services in other areas?

In my music photography experience you could get anything from ?100 to ?600 for the useage you descibe. But get a contract together and exclude merchandise sales or use on a cd or add in prices if they decide to use the shot for something else<br>

<br>

<a href ="www.AAAphotos.org">www.AAAphotos.org</a>

because you can achieve noise reduction far better and far more customisable in software on your computer than you could in camera

i know of one costco who are about a month away from upgrading their photolab to take up to at least 16" paper so maybe ask your local brach if they are also upgrading soon

if i didn't have the 24-70f2.8, the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS would be my choice of concert lens for small to medium venues<br>

<br>

i regularly shoot at 1/15th and IS would be very useful for that. <br>

<br>

<a href = "http://www.AAAphotos.org">www.AAAphotos.org</a> - music photography

read this, best article i've ever read on the subject...<br>

<br>

<a href = "http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/raw.htm">http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/raw.htm</a>

to answer the original posters question. the 24-70 f2.8L is the best concert lens for venues from small to huge stadiums. the 70-200f2.8 is second best and the 10-22 is third<br>

<br>

this is based on me being a concert photographer whos uses canon gear<br>

<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3421129-lg.jpg"><br>

<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3935939-lg.jpg"><br>

<br>

<img src = "http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3579356-lg.jpg"><br>

<br>

<a href = "http://aaaphotos.org/faq.htm">http://aaaphotos.org/faq.htm</a> - have a read of this faq i wrote for concert photographers

my EF-s 10-22 has got me shots at a price that full frame leses couldn't have. i've sold those shots for more than the price of the lens. why is that a bad buy for me?

what you see through the viewfinder of the 20D is what you get. Anyway, it's digital, just shoot and look at the LCD afterwards

contact someone like your local fuji rep about their minilabs

you may have heard nothingbut problems because people like me and loads more like me have one and find it works perfectly with no problems at all. i'm hardly likely to put up a post saying:

 

"my camera works exactly how it says in the manual, battery grip is perfect, all my lenses focus where they are meant to, the exposure with my canon flash is brilliant, i don't get error 99's, everything, clicks, whirrs and buzzes just as it should"

 

if you buy a grip that doesn't do as described, you are surely entitled to get it replaced or fixed