Komatsu
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Posts posted by Komatsu
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Hi All,
I'm trying to disable the dial/wheel on the back of my Sony A7R2.
Here is the procedure I'm using.
Menu/Cog, Gear/8/Dial/Wheel lock/Lock.
I also press the Fn button for a few seconds until it says locked.
After doing this, I can still move the wheel to access ISO, Display, etc.
What am I missing? Is it time to send it in for repair?
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<p>Many thanks for all your help. I think it may be time to read the manual to try and understand this.<br>
Thanks all.</p>
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<p>Thanks for all the responses. I use Aperture on a MAC. I usually edit my files in raw. The software in Photoshop Elements is exactly what I'm looking for where you're able to see what parts of the photo will be lost when printing. </p>
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<p>I'm not sure if this is the correct forum to be posting this question,,,, <br>
Here is my dilemma. When I download my images to my computer, most of the time I do some degree of cropping. Sometimes alot but most of the time just a bit. When I take these images to my photofinisher and order 8 by 10s for example, I cannot tell how much of the image is going to be lost because of the print size. Is there a software program or a way of superimposing an 8 by 10 frame or a 5 by 7 frame around the photograph to see how the picture will actually look??</p>
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<p>Ariel, I have the Nikon 24-120 f4. This is the only lens that I have used with VR and it is very quiet when it is working. When I purchased the Sigma, I thought it would work similarly with the Nikon, but there is quite a noticeable noise when the OS is working and the object in the view finder does change position when the OS engages and it changes again when the OS disengages, a second or two later. The pictures look great, I was just wondering if the lens should be serviced.</p>
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I have a Sigma 150mm macro with the OS feature. I have a Nikon lens with the VR feature and it acts totally different to the Sigma. When I use the Nikon lens with the VR turned on, it is virtually seamless in the way it works. The lens stabilizes and you wouldn't even know it's on. When the Sigma lens is turned on with the OS feature, you hear a slight clunk, and you see the object you are focusing on change position in the viewfinder. A few seconds later, you hear a slight clunk again and you see the object move in the viewfinder again. I'd like to know if anyone that has this lens experiences the same thing and if this is normal.
I understand that there is a gyro in theses lenses and that is what I'm probably seeing in the Sigma lens. Just wondering if what I'm hearing and seeing is normal.
Thanks for your help.
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<p>Will your son adopt me?<br>
Happy New year folks.</p>
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<p>I'm going through the same dilemma now, and I've decided on the Sigma. I like the fact that it has OS, not for macro, but for portraits. If I'm taking a closeup. I'll probably always be using a tripod. I have focal length zoom lens in the 105 mm range so I didn't want to have duplicates.I also think that Sigma are putting out some impressive lens.</p>
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<p>Hi Kris,<br>
I've processed quite a bit of Delta 100 and I like it because of the lack of grain. I go by the book though, I process it at the correct time according to the temperature and I always have my developer (D-76) at 68 degress. I scan the negatives with a V700 and I am quite happy with the results.</p>
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<p>I've always mixed smaller batches (1 litre bottles) of D-76 from the 3.8 litre packets of powder. I've never had any adverse affects by doing this, as far as I can see. I'm happy with the results, so I'll continue to do it this way.<br>
I understand the consequences of dividing the powder into smaller quantities, but fortunately in the 15 plus years I've been doing this, things have always turned out OK.</p><div></div>
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<p>Hi Joseph, What you say is interesting. I've heard that rubbing contacts with an eraser is a good way of cleaning them also. I would like to read your explanation or see your link if you wouldn't mind.<br>
Thanks.</p>
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<p>If you can get it for $1K, pay the money and run!!<br>
I've owned a Mamiya 7 in the past, and like everybody has said, it is a fantastic camera.</p>
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<p>Keh.com for used.<br>
Harrysproshop.com for new. You'll have to contact Brian to see if he has any in stock.<br>
Sorry, I've never bought from oversees.</p>
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<p>I bought a case made by Clydesdale a few years back, and you can get varying degrees of protection. It was quite reasonable and they are very well made.<br>
Ken</p>
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<p>OMG!!! Now we're going to debate film vs. digital under a microscope?<br>
Whats next,,,,?!!</p>
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<p>Ya right!! Sounds good to me.<br>
Why not just spend the money to get it repaired by a professional? Your camera is too expensive a tool to be dunking in lighter fluid. What if it catches on fire? You going to smoke it? </p>
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<p>I always liked 50mm on a full frame camera. Walked around for many a year with a 50mm 1.2L on a F1.</p>
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<p>Real bummer. I'd buy the ring. If you can afford the lens, you should be able to afford the ring. Isn't that half the prestige?</p>
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<p>Paypal does hold your money for all the reasons that Dieter has listed, unless you have a feedback rating or a detailed sellers rating of a certain amount. I think it's a 100 or more feeback or sellers rating.<br>
It is frustrating, (for a legitimate seller,) to have to wait for Paypal to release the money, especially if it takes the buyer weeks to give you positive feedback. The buyer has 21 days to "evaluate" the purchase before the money is released to the seller.<br>
I suppose this is the only way Paypal can have control over fraudulent transactions, just a little frustrating for the honest sellers.</p>
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<p>I have a Mamiya 7, so I'm not sure if they work the same way, but for the 7 you have to have the camera back open for the shutter to fire if you do not have film in it.</p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10316994-lg.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="580" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10316992-lg.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="580" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10302410-lg.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="580" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10291595-lg.jpg" border="0" alt="What the Duck" width="508" height="465" /></p>
Sony Control Lock Non-Functional
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted
Hi Ed. I have an A7R2 and I discovered the same thing. I talked to one of the technical reps on their help line and they said the lock option only locks the 2 wheels that control the aperture that are near the top and front of the camera. That it does, but the multi function wheel and the rear panel controls all have no effect .
Bit of a useless option.