pat_j._krentz_29_palms__ca

If they are not heat fogged, and if they have not been keeped in a

cool place, I think all your going to get is black film, but if you

want to try, use PMK. Pat

Pyro with just about anything! I have used it on Tri-X 35-57 formats,

Arisa 125 in 120 format, HP5, HP4, XP1, Plus-X, Tech-Pan 35-45, it

does take awhile to find your nitch with it. Pat

Amidol works very well with enlarging papers, Kodabromide works very

well, as for VC and RC I have not tried them yet, maybe you could and

let us know how it turns out. Pat

The size of a lens is usually on the front, the size of filters are

on the band that holds the glass, in large format the bellows

extension in relation to the lens determines if it will work with your

given camera, you cannot put a 20 inch lens on a camera with 18 inch

bellow draw, you will never have infinity focus, you can put a much

shorter lens if you are going to do 1:1 or closer, the other thing

that you need to remember is the lens board must be the correct size

and if the lens board, bellows draw, are sufficient you can use any

lens you wish. Pat

Darron, got your reply this AM, I must agree with you, I have been

using Brilliant VC 111 for the last week and am very impressed with

the quality and tonal range of this paper, I have been reluctant to

give up graded papers but this matches and surpassed the abilities of

the graded papers I am using (Kodabromide). Like my friend Phil Dunham

says, "Why have 3 0r 4 boxes of paper laying around when one will do

the job. This paper will give me any grade I need and some you can't

get with graded paper. Sergio, do yourself a favor and try it, you'll

like it. Phil called Ilford in N.Y. and they would not admit that they

make Brilliant, but by the same token they would not deny it. Pat

Fred Picker's Zone VI Workshop is a very good book for understanding

the Zone system, and his other book, The Fine Print is excellent for

understanding printing. Pat

Dave, you might look up Kodak's formula's for fixers, I only use two

types, pure hypo (sodium thiosulfate) for pyro negs and Zone VI fixer

for everything else. Pat

I assume that you are talking about printing negatives, not developing

them, since the quote you have is for contact prints, get a 60 watt

soft white bulb and wrap it in some tissue paper and hang it about 2.5

feet above your table and contact print the negs yourself. You will

have to experiment with grades of paper depending on the density of

the negative, or you can buy a cheap enlarger and use VC papers and

the filters that go with them. Good Luck! Pat

All 4x5 films will work in a Grafic, the 23 film holder works great in

my Grafic and it is a nob winder, I have no problems with flatness.

Pat

All you should have to do is resoak the film in some rapid fix to

remove the rest of the stain and then redevelope in used PMK like

usual, you might have to let it set a little longer. Pat

Out here in the desert I fill the container about 1/2 full with water,

drop in a cup of sand and shake the H--- out of it for about 5

minutes, cleans them real well. Pat

I have a friend who uses the slower speed films for this purpose, as

it increases the exposure times, not bad for landscapes, but can be

hard for portraiture. Pat

I have a 5"x 1000' roll which I have been using off of for about three

years now, the only asa rating I know of is the 40 by Kodak, it does

have extended red sensivity which makes it nice for people, I usually

shoot it at 40/80 with 4 minute dev. in Pyro-tet, give nice negs with

good shadow detail. I use it for 2x3, 4x5, and 5x7, have never had a

problem with film holders, the problem is with film hanger in dev. the

film is so thin that any sideways movement causes the film to slip out

of the hangers. You will find that it prints faster also because of

the .0025 thinkness, it clears twice as fast as other films and drys

twice as fast. Very nice film when you get used to it.

Kodak's F-24 fixer modified by Gorden Hutchins's is:

Water 3 quarts hot (125)

Hypo 4 cups

Sod.Sulfite 1 heaping tablespoon (40gm. or 22cc bulk)

Sod.Bisulfite 1/3 cup (100gm or 73cc bulk)

Water to make 1 gallon.

I have used this formulation and found it very satisfactory. Pat

The formula I have used for years without problem is 1 pound of sodium

thiosulfate (Penta) crystals to one gallon distilled water. Works well

with Tmax, even though I gave on Tmax for other reasons. Pat

Try using Saran-wrap over the projection lens or a light tan nylon

pulled very tight over the taking lens. Pat

If you call Kodak in New York, they will be glad to give you the name

of a distributor in your area. Pat

You should be able to get cleaning/repair at Photography on Bald

Mountain in Ca., ortho film is available from B&H in N.Y., the nice

thing about ortho is you can watch the development under a red light

and it lightens folliage and skin tones for the old time photo look,

very good for male photo's, makes women look a little severe, but blue

lipstick on female subjects comes out very well. Pat

Run your Personal Exposure Index test for film and printing and you

will have the answer to your questions. Pat

I use sodium thyoisulfate (pure hypo) only, it clears my film in 2-4

minutes depending on freshness, none of my negs show any problem after

30 years, now that is not archival but it is good enough for me. Don't

believe everything you read, try it and see if it works. Pat