dave_nelson___atlanta__ga

I have the aluminum 3021PRO and love it. I feel that the carbon tripods are to expensive for how often I use a tripod. And paying extra for a black tripod didn't make sense to me either.

In your example it looks to me like you are half pressing the shutter button long before you take the picture. "Long" being more than a half second. I have that problem myself. When shooting a moving subject, squeeze the button in one motion.

I think a higher ISO (400 or higher), smaller appeture (at least 8.0), and faster shutter speed will result in the type of pictures you are looking for, both for the horses and for the bikes. Although, on the bikes you may want to slow the shutter speed down a bit to get more background blur.

Thank you Steve Levine for the example and Lakhinder Walia for the book recommendation.

My favorite trick is to ask the person to place one leg forward and lean back slightly. It creates a line making them look taller and, depending upon clothes, slimmer. With a straight or billowy dress or shirt odd shapes can always happen but if you are posing the shot you may use bulldog clips to tighten it up.

It sounds to me like you would not be happy with the 10D or any other 1.6x crop factor camera. I suggest saving yourself a lot of stress and either buy a 1:1 camera ( I don't think 1.3x would make you happy either ) or stick to film for the foreseeable future. Unless you need something else in your life to complain about that is.

 

It took me about a month to get over the crop factor and have now learned how to use it to my advantage. I now take different types of pictures than I did with film and focus on wide angle a lot less. I will probably not own a 1:1 digital camera when the 1.6x cameras have all of the same features that I regularly use. I would not pay extra for a 1.3x crop factor compared to a 1.6x, but I will be paying more for resolution, speed, and durability.

This is a problem inherit with editing JPGs. There is no way around it.

 

What are you trying to do with the files, such as what is the final output? JPGs are really only suitable for use on the web and to email. If you were going to print a JPG I suggest always saving them at 100% or maximum quality.

I have just started reading Kevin Ames book "Adobe PhotoShop CS, The Art of Photographing Women" and the first chapter has convinced me never to shoot in JPEG ever again. I suggest finding this book and even if you do not buy it, read pages 5, 6, and 7.

P.S. Both times was while it was writing and I made sure to wait until the red write light went out before removing the battery.

Happened to me twice in one night while shooting fireworks on the fourth. Removing the battery fixed it immediately.

This happened to me on the 4th of July while shooting fireworks. The camera was set for action shots and I had probably taken 100 or so pictures very rapidly, then boom. It sounded like the mirror went up and just stayed there. I looked to see if it was writing to the memory card, which it was for a little bit, but it did not seem to recover after finishing.

 

So I popped out the battery for a second and put it back in. Shot 100 or more pictures afterwords with no problem.

 

Some time I do not think it is shooting as fast as it should.

I think that taking these photos for your company is a good oportunity, but maybe you could treat the $325 as covering your costs instead of as income.

 

Also think about get written permission to use the photos in a public portfolio, such as a web site or brochure.

I am using the Tamron 17-35mm XR Di f/2.8-4 (B&H $479.95) and really like it. In combination with the 28-75mm XR Di f/2.8 (B&H $349.95) I don't think I could be happier.

The lack of vandalism makes my head spin. Almost anything in America that is abandoned for a couple of hours is covered in graffiti.

I am using the 75-300 4-5.6 IS with my 10D and really like it. 300mm pictures taken with a sutter speed around 1/100 are nice and sharp.

If this type of thing continues, cameras themselves are going to be thought of as terrorist weapons.

I haven't tried it yet, but it should work great on a film body. I really like the Tamron 28-75 2.8 Di.

I use an imagetank like device to do this. I have never seen one that copies from one card to another.

I did not keep this lens long enough to have a focusing problem with a 10D. But being new to non-cheapie photography I had a very hard time with the 12-24mm (19.2 - 38.4mm with the 1.6x). It is very different from say a 17-35mm or 28-75mm.

 

I returned the 12-24mm and bought the Tamron 17-35mm XR Di (27.2 - 56mm) and have been really happy with it. Maybe in a couple of years I will be ready to give 12mm another go once I understand its limitations better.

Congratulations!

You will need to format it on your computer first with FAT32 or FAT16 then I suggest formatting it again on the camera.

 

BUT ===========================

 

The card may not work with the rebel at all. ComputerGeeks.com has some MicroDrives that would not work in the dRebel at all. But I see that those have sold out and now they only have a few of the IBM MicroDrives left. 340MB for $59.

 

http://www.compgeeks.com/details.asp?invtid=DMDM-10340-CO-R&cat=RAM

I recommend taking the lens to a store and try it out. If the lens works on a newer EOS film camera it will probably be fine on the dRebel. But you wont know for shure until you try.

ACDSee will catalog raw files with its latest update.

http://www.acdsystems.com/English/Products/ACDSee/pdsi.htm

I second the recommendation of the Tamron 17-35mm and 28-75mm f/2.8 lenses.

I am using this lens along with the Tamron 17-35mm f/2.8 XR Di LD. I am very happy with both lenses on my 10D. I suggest ordering one from B&H or similar and giving it a try; return it if it doesn't meet your needs. The PopPhoto review really sold me.

 

http://www.popphoto.com/article.asp?section_id=2&article_id=711