astral

<p>Does anyone have information on the bayonet size on the Kowa Kallowflex K2 please? Also, is the spacing between taking and viewing lens the same as on Rolleiflex cameras?</p>

<p>I have just purchased a Kallowflex which will take a week or so to arrive in the post. In the meantime I would like to start the search for a lens cap, hood and filters online and at camera fairs. It seems a very uncommon camera here in the UK.</p>

<p>I like anything that helps me 'see' things in a different way, or which inspires and interests me. The question of what constitutes art is, to me, somewhat immaterial. However, very little of what is pedalled specifically as "Lomography" inspires or interests me, and I do tend to subscribe to the views in this link: <a href="http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/lomography/">http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/lomography/</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Where are you? I have recently seen one on a UK dealer's website - unfortunately I cannot recall where. Try KEH & Adorama (obviously); also <em>Richard Caplan</em>, <em>Red Do</em>t and <em>The Classic Camera</em> - all in London. <em>MW Classi</em>c, also in London had one recently though I feel it may have sold <em>very</em> quickly. <em>The Leica Shop</em> in Wien/Vienna is worth a look; also email Franz Gibiser at <em>Camera31.com</em> (also in Wien). <em>Collectible Cameras</em> in Phoenix AZ may have one: it's best to email Ed Ritz there and ask directly.</p>

<p>18 months ago had a very long search <em>worldwide </em>to find one, eventually getting a rough, used one at KEH or Adorama for $60 + shipping to the UK (Ouch!). After ordering it, one in excellent condition turned up on eBay for £10. Good luck with the search.</p>

<p>Ian - If the Leica III and Elmar are clean and in good working order the price sounds pretty fair. Things to beware of are sticky shutter speeds, wrinkled curtains, hazy or dim rangefinder and scratches and haze in the lens.It (as with all Barnacks) is a nice - <em>if quirky </em>- camera to use: but if you can 'live' with it the results can be remarkably good and it can be real fun to use.</p>

<p>If the camera needs a CLA, the price in the UK (CRR in Luton or Malcom Taylor in Aymestrey) will almost certainly be <em>over </em>£145 including a simple lens clean - and possibly more depending on condition (e.g. rf mirror replacement). Even at that price a really good III is probably good value in today's market. <em>But do shop around </em>- try MW Classic. Later Barnack cameras added a few features (improved rangefinder, slow speeds, even better construction) but are normally more expensive.</p>

<p>I have also sent you mail via pnet.</p>

 

<p>It might be the 21st century 'out there' but very often it's still the 1960s on <em>my </em>side of the camera!</p>

<p>I've recently been fittling zinc-air and silver oxice batteries in a whole variety of cameras and to be sure there are some incompatibilities, not least getting a good fit. As there is a lot of contradictory information on the web I have started making a list of compatible batteries and cameras, but it is limited to the gear that I own and progress is slow.</p>

<p>Spotmatics I & II and Miranda Sensomats are ok with silver oxides, but not Nikkormat FT and FTn: I haven't tried a zinc-air in a 'mercurial' Nikkormat yet. I am testing a Canon FTB with a zinc-air battery in a small home-made alumin(i)um 'cradle' and it seems fine: however, I don't think it can reliably handle a silver oxide.</p>

<p>Preliminary tests with silver oxide and zinc-air batteries on a Canonet QL17, Olympus 35SP suggest that they may be ok, but I haven't yet explored the full meter range.</p>

 

<p>I could rather fancy being an assistant to László Moholy-Nagy - I have a lot of regard for Jan Reich too.</p>

<p>For the money, there are far, far better watches than a Rolex: for the money, there ain't many better Leica M digital cameras ;-)</p>

<p>The first detent point at which the meter is switched on and the second point at which the shutter trips are different on my R5, R6 and R7 (also M4, M6 and M6TTL) . In a few instances the shutter travel is unacceptably frustrating. The only solution for me is to use soft release buttons. The downside is that, in a bag, a soft release on some cameras can easily activate the meter and drain the batteries.The only default Leica shutter releases that suit me are the SL and SL2, although these also really benefit from a soft release button.</p>

<p>The cheapest alternative to the rip-off photographic soft releases is a chrome domed <em>mirror screw cap</em> (as found in hardware stores), <em>but they do not fit all cameras</em>: however, they normally only cost a few pennies each and can work just as well as ones with a name on the top..<br>

.</p>

<p>Just for information: about 3000 Leica III cameras were produced with chrome fittings in 1938 (around SN 275xxx), making them a little scarce. However, cameras having one or more replacement chrome items are quite common.</p>

<p>Congratulations Andy - the VT is a nice model - in fact, I've just bought one too. I expected the trigger wind to be a pain, but it works fine. This one came with a 50mm f1.8 Canon which appears to be unused and which is smaller than I imagined. I'm waiting for a bit of good weather or sunlight so I can run a film through it (also with a 50mm f1.4) - this weekend <em>may</em> be possible. One small niggle is that the slow speeds are very sticky, but will be fixed under warranty next week.</p>

<p>Matthijs - I will make some enquiries (I know a repairer). I will send you an email via photo.net. <em>Tot seins.</em></p>

<p>Mattijs - I haven't worked on an AX; there are just too many electronics. So, it is not as easy to work on as a pure mechanical camera (even <em>they</em> can be tricky). I need to keep my AX cameras working because I have: <em>19</em>, 24, 28, 35, 50 (f1.6 & <em>f1.2</em>) and 135 Fujinons. I am looking for a 100mm, but they are very rare. I could easily find alternative lenses - Nikon or Canon - for many of these, but the 19mm and 50mm f1.2 are exceedingly good lenses and make it worth keeping an AX5 (or AX3) working. While a little lubrication may appear to get your shutter working it is difficult to make adjustments without some special equipment. Any oil that is applied to a camera should be almost invisible: it is all too easy to put too much oil in the wrong places. I believe you may find a service manual online, but I am doubtful.</p>

<p>You may be lucky in finding another good working AX online, and which would not require a service, but ask lots of questions before you buy Don't buy one if it has not actually been used by the seller recently. I recently, bought a mint <em>guaranteed </em>one with lens for £40 (GB pounds) - but that was at a camera fair, not online. That is the <em>very most</em> I would want to pay for a good working AX5.</p>

 

<p>Matthijs - the problem with the shutter can only be reliably fixed by having the camera serviced (CLA'd). It is a common problem with the AX series and, in my opinion (see above) is not warranted unless you have a collection of 'valuable' Fujinon lenses. Depending where you are, a service can cost $70 to $150. If the mirror hinge was so stiff to cause a problem, it is inevitable that ither finely-tuned parts are similarly in need of lubrication too: a drop of oil in the wrong places will probably cause other problems in the longer term.</p>

<p>I have (and use) several AX cameras, and haven't yet experienced this problem. It does seem like a lazy mirror, since the AX series use horizontally travelling cloth shutters, which couldn't give this effect.</p>

<p>Often the mirror bumper foam can beccome sticky, and in a bad case may cause the mirror to stick up. Also, these cameras are a bit prone to shutter tapering .This is usually quite noticeable at speeds faster than 1/125. It is usually - but not always - fixed with a full service. However it has been reported that a capacitor in the timing circuit can die and is not repairable. I haven't had that happen <em>yet</em>.</p>

<p>However, unless you have an investment in quality <em>Fujinon</em> X mount lenses I would suggest that it is not generally economic to service an AX, but the decision may not simply be based on cost. Given the age and temperamental nature of the AX series, buying another one does not guarantee getting a problem-free one.The only reason I haven't scrapped a handful of AX3s and AX5s is because I own a variety of excellent Fujinon lenses which I could not afford to replace in another brand.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks folks. Well, having 'excercised' the 'clunky' mechanisim, read the manual and taken on board your comments the camera is still not winding properly, and the shutter remains indecisive. Pressing the red film release button helps, but on release the 'clunker' doesn't clunk and the 'clicker' doesn't click correcly.</p>

<p>The only reason for me to keep the camera and have it attended to is in order to use it. But I <em>am </em>surprised that the prices being asked for this model. I refrained from calling the camera 'goofy' only on account of the quality of materials being so good; but there a a few 'goofs' in the design - at least in my view. It's redeeming feature seems only to be the Skopar lens.</p>

<p>The upshot is that I'll enquire about the possibility of a very cheap fix from my friend - a three figure sum is out of the question ~ anything over £30 will seal its fate as an example of a well-made but 'goofy and clunky' glass cabinet camera.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have been given a very clean looking Voigtlander Vitessa T which I would like to try out. However, it will first need some attention. As seems usual, the plunger does not work correctly and slow shutter speeds are sticky - but the meter is functional and the camera has no other 'issues'. I'm not a fan of such 'klunkky' cameras, especially ones that use the linked EV system, so I need to decide whether to have it CLA'd or not. </p>

<p>My question is whether a good working Vitessa T (with Color 50/2.8 Skopar) delivers good results in practice, or are they simply average for a good quality camera of its era? I have no clue about the qualities (etc) of the camera - and photos on the web are few and far between . .</p>

<p>I am disinclined to spend much money on it, though a friend of mine is a Voigtlander specialist and he would undertake a thorough overhaul at a fair price. Any thoughts please?</p>

<p>Nikkormat FTN or FT2 plus 24/2.8 is tops for me too. My 'scalloped' 24mm has very little paint left on it, but mechanically and optically it is excellent. The previous owner(s) clearly treasured it, as do I.</p>

<p>BTW: the airport shot looks like an ice-palace :-)</p>

<p>When I feel the need to have a 'modern' backup <em>to a classic camera</em> it's a Mamiya 645. Conversely, If I go out principally with a 'serious' modern camera my usual <em>classic backup </em>camera is something very small like my Leica II & Elmar. Naturally the backup to the backup camera is always some sort of digital thingy.</p>

 

<p>JDM, Prinz was exclusive to Dixons, UK, as were the later Mirandas (Pentax KM mount and maybe the earliest Miranda M42 models). Zodel lenses and cameras, and Harmony lenses, were exclusive to Wallace Heaton, London, which was bought by Dixons in the late 70s or early 80s).</p>

<p>I have info on many of the independent or house lens brands in the UK, but this needs some thought and research in my collection of UK photo magazines before I can post anything coherent (probably best sent as a spreadsheet initially). This could be a long-running project.</p>

 

<p>In my opinion, the R7 is a much nicer (better) camera than the R4 and R5, and really clean used ones are generally quite 'affordable' nowadays. Unless someone needs the specific features of a R6.2, there seems to be liittle to commend it over the R6, which appears to be falling in price in the UK currently. If I was to chose a (backup) Leica R right now it'd be a R7, or possibly a R8 if I could handle one for a while.</p>

<p>Gary Reece's webpages have been archived by Waybackmachine. Here is the full url:<br>

<a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20070112231316/http://members.aol.com/canonfdlenstests/default.htm">http://web.archive.org/web/20070112231316/http://members.aol.com/canonfdlenstests/default.htm</a></p>

<p>Some days it is pretty slow-loading. If you know the old url for a closed website you can try to access the archive (doesn't always work) at:<br>

<a href="http://www.archive.org/web/web.php">http://www.archive.org/web/web.php</a></p>

 

<p>There is some information here which may help:<br /> <a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/equipment.html"></a><br>

<a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/Lens-R.html">Leica R-lens page</a>.<br /> <br /> R-only is another name for 'Third cam' used by many folk.</p>

<p>Recently I found a Pentax SL with 55/1.8 online in good working condition but visually quite dirty. The seller must have been embarassed by it because when it arrived I had a rebate - total cost was £29 ($40) with a mechanical warranty too. But the crud was superficial and it now looks superb. I now realise I should have bought one years ago - before it became a classic.</p>

<p>Aye! Lense is ye olde spellinge ;-)</p>

<p>Mine (mint, used) cost GB£140, so anything less than that <em>might </em>be considered a bargain.</p>

<p>Thanks Teo. I have sent you an email via pnet. If more information turns up I will mail you and post it here too if appropriate. <em>Noroc!</em></p>