astral

January 4, 2015

Les, a quick question: what has been your experience with the reliability of the XE-7 (XE-1 in Europe) please? There are a couple of 'stand-out' Minolta lenses I'd like to use, but I am unsure about the later X-series cameras or indeed the SRT-series.

January 4, 2015

If you really, really must buy into a new system I would suggest thinking again about the Konica range because of a few reliability issues and a fairly poor choice of lenses and accessories (however, that varies by model and also availability around the world).

The Leica R3 is not the best choice from the Leica stable: the R5, R6 and R7 are much better bodies. However most Leica SLR lenses are grossly overpriced, especially ones that can be adapted for use on digital cameras. There are however a couple of 'stand-out' Leica lenses: they should provide the motivation for changing to Leica, not the bodies. Several 'commonplace' Leica SLR lenses have a performance equal, but not necessarily surpassing contemporary Canon and Nikon lenses, etc, by a significant margin, especially considering their cost. There are some incompatibilities with Leica R mounts which can ensnare the unwary -and even the wary.

Pentax KM mount is a good choice, with many affordable and high qualtiy lenses and (generally) affordable accessories. However, the KM and KX models are nowhere near as interesting or as capable an a LX which is a top class camera. Again, with the Pentax system, there are several stand-out lenses, but there are many more average-to-mediocre ones: lens choice, not body, is a better basis for any decisions in my opinion. For me, Pentax primes outshine Pentax zooms by a very (very) wide margin.

The earlier Pentax screw-mount system is invariably good fun, and generally affordable. The only real day-to-day downside is that changing lenses can be frustratingly slow. SMC Takumars are more highly prized than Super-Takumars, but both perform exceptionally well. A Pentax Spotmatic (preferably a SP-II) or SL or even an older model can be fun if you want to re-discover 1970s -style photography, with stop-down metering and a somewhat dim focussing screen. Many Pentaxes are "high-mileage" and not quite as durable internally as the tougher Canon and Nikon semi-pro cameras, so parts do wear out resulting in poor shutter speed, etc. I have literally worn out two Pentax SV cameras since 1970 and am now on my third.

The Olympus OM system is broad and deep: a good system can be build at a reasonable cost. The most durable body is the OM2n; other models are somewhat either less reliable (OM4) or have fewer features (OM-10): Olympus electronics can be quirky. I do not know about the OM30SP, it is a less common camera here in the UK. Olympus lenses are no "worse" than anyone else's in normal use, but the choice between early and late lenses, and the difference in coating can be a distraction. Later 'multicoated' lenses are not necessarily any better, overall, than earlier simple coated lens versions. The earlier Olympus bodies are small and the ergonomics are good.

Finally, the Nikon F, F2 and later Nikkormats (FT2/3), along with the later FM, FM2, FE and FA are usually affordable, dependable and good platforms for many excellent Nikkor lenses of all periods. A good system can be built to almost any reasonable budget, but much research is needed to ensure that lenses and cameras are fully compatible. Not all Nikon lenses are "exceptional", many are in reality just mainstream, but there are some real standout lenses that - again - should be the basis of a system rather than a superficial choice of body model.

Out of all of the above systems, Olympus is for me, by far the more "interesting" one. But I feel that even it doesn't provide very much more interest or excitement in the medium to long term than, say, buying another, "better" or more useful lens for a system that is already owned. With SLRs the novelty soon wears off, because - as I asserted previously - all SLRs are "much of a muchness."

Good luck, tread warily.

January 2, 2015

Broadly speaking, the (fairly minor) differences between most manual SLRs are such that adopting a new brand, let alone model, may not give a significantly different experience. Also, differences between brands and models may simply not be seen in the resulting photographs. On the other hand, expanding into a new 'system' may widen the choice of lenses and there may be specific camera functions or features that are of interest or value to you. In contrast, a fixed lens rangefinder camera, such as a Kodak Retina, will probably offer new challenges and opportunities despite what may superficially appear to be significant limitations compared most SLR cameras. Similarly, moving to rollfilm, using a folding camera or SLR, can take you in a completely new photographic direction with its own challenges and opportunities. Ultimately, the question is what sort of photography do you wish to do? That does more to define a type, brand or model of camera than just picking on a camera that looks interesting; although that itself may be a good reason for buying another brand of SLR. Also, flirtations with other brands (etc) start the slide down the slippery slope of having more stuff than you can use, and much of that may be of little practical photographic use to you . . . Setting all that aside, the Canon FD lenses are great bargains . . . but only if you find a camera body that meets your needs and within your price bracket.

December 31, 2014

I have hankered for a Leicameter for an M2 and a black M4P, but in 6 years searching have not yet found one - of any age - in good condition that works satisfactorily, if at all. Selenium cells can go 'haywire', while older CdS cells may lose linearity, especially if given the wrong voltage - I feel that these old meters are a bit of a gamble and are often inordinately expensive.

I have a couple of Weston Master V meters that are still good, but also one that is now not linear. I have tried a calibration graph for the problematic meter, but it is really unuseable in the low range. My preferred solution is a Sekonic L308s which displays shutter speeds and apertures in 1/3rd stop steps. This covers the old shutter speed and apreture ranges on Barnack cameras and it is therefore an extremely handy as well as reliable meter.

December 31, 2014

My first camera in 1957 at the age of 10 y.o. was a Comet, then sold by Boots The Chemist (a pharmacy chain of long standing in the UK) under their house brand. Quite which model it was I don't know, but it had all of the quirky and rather dysfunctional characteristics of a Bencini Koroll/Comet. It was given to me as a hand-me-down, along with a roll of Verichrome Pan which subsequently became my stock film.

Its first, and last, outing was to a motor race - The Gold Cup race at Oulton Park (in Cheshire, England). Many motor racing legends were there including Stirling Moss, Mike Hailwood and John Surtees, but unfortunately, the cars were too far away to distinguish the drivers or livery as they sped round the course. I took a deep dislike to the camera and for years it was used as a doorstop. It cost 3/6d (three shillings and sixpence) to have the film developed and small enprints made. That was about the same price as a meal of plaice, chips and peas in a respectable restaurant in those days.

I do still have the negatives in a 'safe place' (a shoe box in a much neglected drawer) and might one day scan them and see if they are as bad as I have always considered them. I cannot recall what camera I used as a replacement, but I inherited many cameras from my older brother as he progressively upgraded his equipment.

Of course, in the 50s and 60s Italian style and fashions were very popular, but this did not always mean that the products were of good quality. If I ever got hands on another Bencini camera I would be delighted to use it as a doorstop . . . Happy New Year.

December 5, 2014

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December 3, 2014

Easy - on a Barnack Leica (III) a coated Elmar 5cm f3.5, while on an M2 / M4 Leica the last Summaron 35mm f2.8 is top. On a Leica R the Summicron 90mm f2 is top by a whisker for me, with the Summicron 50mm f2 in second place. Out of all those the ultimate winner for me is the 90mm f2; it hasn't been off my SL2 for almost a year now.

October 28, 2014

Try 11879 for the Hexanon; 11626 is fine for the 15mm Heliar. 11135 is probably close enough for the ZM 21, similarly 11606 or 11604 for the ZM 28. There is more information online if you dig deep enough.

October 6, 2014

I like the idea of using a laser pointer to give a high contrast spot to focus on. This would be useful kit for my Leica SL and a couple of other old cameras with plain matte or fine microprism screens, as well as M and Barnack Leicas. Usually I skirt around near-range focusing with rangefinder cameras by exploiting depth of field, or by using an SLR. In particular, I find that using any lens longer than 50mm on a rangefinder is rather hit-and-miss due to quirky or squinty cameras and eyesight. Thanks for the tips.

October 2, 2014

John, call Ed Trzoska on 0116 267 4247. He fixed my Autocord last year.

October 2, 2014

"The new film Leica just reinforce critics saying: Leica Is for the rich people and is not for serious photography." That is what is termed trolling. It is time this thread was closed.

October 1, 2014

"It is no good to fantasize on prices of your Leica lenses and film cameras, just try to sell some, see what you can get."

The fantasy is for anyone else to think that they know better than I do what cameras and lenses I own, for how long, and what I paid for them. Of course, only I know these facts, therefore such sweeping comments do not add anything to the debate.

September 26, 2014

Oops . . . 2am was rather late to be writing on this topic! I said "Put another way, the last thing you want to hang on to in "deflationary" times is cash - history alone shows that." . . . Clearly that should read "inflationary" times.

September 25, 2014

I have been keeping track of secondhand Leica prices for about 8 years so that I can spot a bargain, or decide whether I should sell some stuff. The data is collated from various sources, mostly specialist shops which do not have expensive premises to maintain. I calculate the selling price on what I would sell for at either a camera fair, or at auction. Clearly, selling to a shop - even as a 'trade-in' - would result in a lower return than these figures suggest. But the 'knack' is to try to buy and sell in the right places at the right prices, not to buy dear and sell cheap.

Over eight years or so, I have seen Barnack (LTM) cameras increase by an average of 16%, but lenses only by 7%. In contrast, I have been aware that M cameras have increased by about 5% p.y., while lenses have increased by 16%. Even if we consider that some old lenses and newer cameras are 'flat-lining', Barnack cameras and M lenses are certainly not losing value year-on-year.

There are many possible exlanations for these patterns. For example, old lenses are more susceptible to age-related problems than are bodies. The availability of Voigtlander lenses also continues to make hazy, scratched 1950's lenses a relatively poor buy. Also, two or three lenses are all that one needs to make up a nice vintage outfit.

In contrast, M lenses are popular with digital camera users, which has certainly inflated prices (the 35mm Bokeh King being a prime example). New versions are helping to keep the used lens market alive as folk grab secondhand perceived bargains in pre-aspheric lenses. Also, the decrease in the amount of film used for every-day photography may make the purchase of an M film camera seem like an extravagance nowadays. . . . The crux is that if you can get 95% of your money back after, say five years AND use the equipment for that time (for profit or pleasure), it is still a helluva lot better than having your cash tied up in 1.5% interest rate account. Put another way, the last thing you want to hang on to in "deflationary" times is cash - history alone shows that.

September 18, 2014

While a modern Leica may not be at the top of most people's list of financial investments there are many instances where a pre-owned or new camera - Leica or not - has a greater value today (in real terms) than when it was bought. I have several like that. Similarly, I can give examples where the 'investment' value of a camera has been greater than than having money in the bank especially at today's measly interest rates. And you do get to play with a camera, while money in the bank is tied up and often and inaccessible, and possibly depreciating year on year. Not every camera that is bought, is sold to someone else at a monetary loss, though it is almost certainly true that most are. The question, debated elsewhere, is whether a modern film Leica such as the M-A - or even a digital one - can be considered a financial investment. I think it is doubtful in the short or medium term, but as a tool which enables one to do something that may not be otherwise possible it is quite likely to be a worthwhile 'investment'. There is more than one interpretation or connotation to the term 'investment'. For example, we don't 'invest' in flood protection as a way of making more money - at least I hope not - we invest in it for the wider benefits that hopefully accrue, not just monetary ones. Of course re-sale value may not be a major consideration in a purchase of a camera or lens. Years ago on a pnet forum there was a debate about whether a member should buy an especially expensive lens. It elicited a sagely reply: "If you can afford it and you will use it, buy it. You can always get more money, you will never get more time." The same arguably applies to an 'investment' in expensive cameras with built-in obsolescence, exquisite performance, heaps of retro chique, or which are purely and simply aspirational. Personally, I am happy with two old M2 Leicas, which now have a real monetary value far greater than the price I paid. Even if I sell them for the purchase price I will still have had the benefit of their use - not so with cash in the bank earning a percent or two. While not measurable as 'an economic good', for me the use of these cameras balances any actual or notional loss of monetary value. They were therefore good investments, because as we all know the small print: "the value of investments can go down as well as up". I 'hedged' with several Leicas - sometimes intentionally, sometimes not - I guess many classic camera users have done the same with varying success. I don't feel that money spent on a camera like an M-A would bring many greater benefits or opportunities to my photography, but others might see it differently. Finally, when new cars, cameras or mobile phones are brought to the market the tendency is normally for prices of older models to decrease rather than increase, but that depends on the induvidual models and the the timescale, as well as fads and fancies. Normal market forces apply, even to Leica cameras, but are often distorted by our over-enthusiasm for some Leica models or our disdain of others. In the meantime Leica Camera AG continue to try to make something that will sell and sell and sell, even if that means turning the clock back half a century.

September 17, 2014

Short answer - £3100 body only (Ffordes) . . . including 20% tax (VAT). No date yet. If Leica also manufactured motor cars we might now be seeing a relaunch of 1956 lookalike with few changes other than the addition of a computerised engine management system, airbags, aircon and Bluetooth. . . . and all at a premium price. Oh . . come to think of it, some 'classic' sportscars are in that category, while Swiss watchmakers do the faux 'retro' thing all the time. With the big market for top quality and retro design being in the Far East, maybe Leica's formula makes business sense if nothing else. BTW, a really nice M2 isn't all that expensive, and probably a better 'investment'.

August 17, 2014

I'd certainly recommend both Ed at Euro Photo and Peter at CRR. They do all of my work, and I know that Ed fairly recently renovated a Reid II.

August 14, 2014

For me the outside (generally) doesn't matter as long as the inside genuinely does the business.

I have an old 24mm Non-AI Nikkor-N which has a (metal) focus ring and barrel so worn that it looks dull chrome or gunmetal colour. But the glass is immaculate and the focussing is silky smooth. It is a sign that the prevous owner(s) valued it so highly that it was used maybe daily and has probably been re-greased. Anyway, it still produces great images . . . and it only cost peanuts - less than £20 GBP I recall.

August 4, 2014

It could be an early 'Safari' special edition . . . . . .

June 27, 2014

Just stick a pale blue filter on it - works great for slides. Any remaining colour cast will be within the variation expected for different slide films.

June 14, 2014

"Fill the frame."

It's a version of "If your photos aren't good enough, you aren't close enough" and so on.

June 11, 2014

In my humble opinion, by far the best service in the UK is from CRR in Luton. Peter has serviced almost all of my Barnack Leicas and always does a first class job. £155 is the going price for a full service here. I would not recommend 'local' camera repairers, who may charge much less, but who may not have the expertise needed.

CRR website has prices and information: http://www.angelfire.com/biz/Leica/page9.html

December 10, 2012

There are ostensibly two versions - the original "Pancake" (silver nose) was screw mount; the PII is a bayonet which has a centre-pinch cap.

November 22, 2012

I don't feel that the 'Cron IV contrast is an issue unless it is used with a high contrast slide film, or if the subject is especially contrasty. In most other cases I can usually handle contrast quite well in the development, or printing, or digital processing stages. (I haven't had any experience with the DR; I use other cameras for close focus subjects).

Also, I have two M2 cameras here - no hint of blue in the finder, although one is a smidgin duller than the other (only noticeable side-by-side).

October 21, 2012

I too have seen some resurgence in interest in medium format cameras in the UK, and prices are clearly on the rise at present. I have missed several good deals that have been quickly snapped up by others.

I need a rollfilm camera for a leisurely tour of E and SE Europe in 2013. I could use my noisy Mamyya 645, but a 6x6 camera with WLF is easier for candid and street photography (on monopod) than an eye-level SLR camera ~ no issues with turning the camera sideways. Quieter too. The d-o-f- preview of a 'blad would be ideal, but way beyond my budget for travel photography.

My Rollei fits the bill except for the fixed focal length; so, a C330F it will be. I'll discuss a trial period with the seller (who has unfortunately sold the 180mm I was contemplating - dang!).

Thanks, folks: very valuable inputs.

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Posts posted by astral