nuno_campos1

Hi,

 

I own a Nikon F65 that I like a lot but has 3 limitations: no spot metering; no

manual ISO setting and no metering with AI lenses.

 

This question has to do with the 2nd limitation.

 

Is there any way to push a film, eg. 400 ISO to 1600 ISO with this camera

except with the exposure compensation mode? I this eg., 400 ISO to 1600 ISO, I

would have to select -2 e.v., right?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos

Unfortunately, 7dayshop - great prices - do not accept orders from outside UK.

(I live in Portugal).

You can buy a much, much nicer camera with the money you would spend in that repair.

Take a look at the Nikon MF cameras or a K-mount one (pentax, ricoh, chinon, ...). In the future, if you decide to buy a Nikon or Pentax DSLR you will be able to use that lenses on it.

Hi,

 

Can anyone recommend me a good online shop � with good prices and large

assortment of materials � to buy chemicals, film and paper within EU?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos

Thanks for all your answers.

 

I am going to use RC (resin coated), not VC (variable contrast) paper because I want to use less water.

 

If that helps, I do mainly street and people photography. That is why I thought the old emulsions HP5+ and Tri-X with the old developers would work fine.

Hi,

 

I have not taken classes to learn how to process and print. My

knowledge in that field is only theoretical. And because I live in a

small town of Portugal it is not easy to take any classes at all.

 

Nevertheless, I have decided to learn by my own, build up a darkroom

and I am looking for a used enlarger. I have some (many) questions

and I really would appreciate your help:

 

 

1) I am going to shoot B&W, 35mm format. Should I buy a B&W enlarger

or a colour enlarger, which makes easier the use of VC papers?

 

2) I am going to start with a combination like Ilford HP5+ and ID11

or Kodak Tri-X and D76. Is that ok?

 

3) Where can I find more information on other chemicals for paper and

film (Fixers, Hypo, Stop Baths, Wetting agents)? Any suggestion? Are

these chemicals as important as the film developer?

 

4) I am going to use RC papers, in order to spend less water (water

is becoming a problem in certain regions of Portugal). I am looking

for good contrast images. Would the Ilford Multigrade MGIV RC Deluxe

be a good start?

 

I know that this is quite a ridiculous question, because I haven�t

started yet, but my objective, after being able to do prints and have

some experience and practise, is to achieve that old look we see in

photographers of the 40�s and 50�s, with contrasty, sharp and grainy

images, although that, as far as I have read, could be a problem with

RC papers.

 

Thanks in advance for anything (and sorry something about the

English),

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos.

Hi,

 

This is probably a foolish question, but if the Nikon F4s is a Nikon

F4 with a MB-21, why is the Nikon F4 more expensive than the F4s?

I am using as reference the www.keh.com prices and some ended

auctions.

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos

Right now I have this lenses:

 

AF:

Nikkor 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6D;

Nikkor 70-300mm f/4-5.6G;

Promaster Spectrum 70-210mm f/4-5.6

 

MF:

Sigma 28mm f/2.8 macro;

Sigma 35-70mm f/2.8-4;

Nikon 50mm f/1.8 series E;

Nikon 100mm f/2.8 series E

 

In the future, I am planning to acquire the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF and a wide angle. If possible, a prime (AF or MF). If not, maybe the Tokina AF193 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5.

 

More than a lot of features, I am looking for a solid body, with spot metering and, most important of all, a good and bright viewfinder.

The F100 is outside my budget. I am looking for something below 200 euros.

Hi,

 

What do you think that would be the best camera (according to the

ratio price/performance) to use with AF and MF lenses: the 6006, the

N8008, the N8008s, the N90 or the N90s?

 

If that helps, I want a more rugged camera to add to the FG and F65

I have already and I want it for general purposes: take on

vacations, do some street, portraits, landscapes.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos

Hi,

 

After some requests from my wife, I bought a zoom for my everyday

camera, the modest Nikon FG. I used the camera with a 28mm f/2.8

Sigma and the Nikon E series 50mm f/1.8 and 100mm f/2.8. They do the

job, but primes are not practical, said my wife.

 

So (and for her) I bought for 20 euros a weird 35-70mm f/2.8-4

manual focus multicoated Sigma zoom. I know: that is dirty cheap.

For the price it�s probably a dog.

 

After I bought it, I ran a Google search looking for some

information but I did not find any relevant information. Do you have

any experience with this lens?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos.

Thanks for all your answers. It seems that I'll pick the Stylus.

 

Best regards.

The 70�s rangefinders are strong contenders, everybody rage about their lenses, but I was looking for something more compact, with a collapsible lens or something similar. The early P&S AF models are quite noisy, aren�t they?

Hi,

 

After having some basic P&S cameras during my youth, some good

experiences with a K1000 increased my interest on photography. Some

months later, in 2001, I bought my first SLR, a Nikon F65 with the

lens kit (28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 D and 70-300mm f/4-5.6 G).

 

Later, and although being quite satisfied with it, some limitations,

like the impossibility to set the ISO, resulted in a new

acquisition, a Nikon FG, some prime lenses(Nikon E 50mm, Nikon E

100mm, Sigma 28mm 2.8), a speedlight (Sunpak 433d). Let me say: what

a nice little camera!

But they are SLR�s, and not really good to take in your pocket.

 

The fact that would like to have always one camera with me resulted

in a new acquisition: a digital P&S, the slim Ricoh Caplio RZ1.

Little and nice, discrete enough for street photography (I really

like street photography) but I have lost some shoots because it

takes some seconds to turn on.

 

So, I thought: why not turning back to the 35mm P&S cameras? They

are quite inexpensive, right now. Something really small, always

ready to shoot. The only thing that really maters to me is an

average lens and a good viewfinder. I can live without control on

the speed and aperture (but I prefer not to). Least than 30 euros

would be great.

 

After some research the Stylus Epic seems to be the camera to go, (I

can buy a used one with 30 euros) but is the camera really fast?

Does it turn on and focus fast? Is it really a point and soot?

 

Or it would be a better choice some of the older P&S? A zone focus?

Something like the Olympus XA2 or the Voigtlander Vito? Would that

be faster?

 

Could you help with that?

 

Best regards (and sorry something about the English)

 

Nuno Campos.

I am moving, in fact, from a high level MF body. I am the proud owner of an FG (LOL). I could buy another FG but I find quite useful the AF bodies spot meter that the MF bodies do not have.

And the AF bodies are, in fact, less expensive. The old MF bodies are classics and the old AF bodies are just old, hence the difference in prices.

So, the N70 and the N6006 have manual focus with electronic rangefinder but no information display in the viewfinder. The N8008/N8008S has that information, right?

I looked also at the N90/90s but they are far more expensive.

I can easily pick a N8008s for less than 100 USD and the N70 and N6006 for less than that.

Hi,

 

I am looking for an inexpensive (I mean very cheap) Nikon body to

have in the car that I could use with my AI and E series lenses and

I realised that some of the first AF bodies are less expensive than

the MF bodies, that they can meter with those lenses, and that I

will have aperture priority program with them. I ran a search and

the N6006, N8008/N8008S and N70 are within my budget.

 

Right now I am slightly bending to the N8008 (has DOF preview and it

seems to be better build) but the N6006 (specially this one) and the

N70 are less expensive and they have a speedlight...

 

My questions are:

 

- Since these bodies do not have a split image viewfinder can you

tell me if they are difficult to focus correctly manually?

 

- I know that I will loose the matrix metering but will I still have

the spot metering (BTW, the N8008 has spot metering or only the

N8008S) with all that cameras?

 

- Is there any less expensive camera that I can use with the AI/E

lenses and that could give me control over the aperture and shutter

and TTL flash control?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos.

"Which camera would take the better photograph?"

 

Maybe the camera that has a better eye behind her viewfinder?

Do not get me wrong, this is just a thought, but are you really limited by your Mamiya?

I bought a lot of cameras before I realized that making good photos has to do much more with burning film and get out with a camera (any is better than none) than being preoccupied with my equipment and how sharp my lenses are, how good were my cameras.

The problem with my photos is all about my eye, not about my cameras.

 

Best regards.

I have done some research too, and it seems that the Ricoh R10 has the same 4 elements 30mm 3.5 lens as the R1E but shutter speeds up to 1/750. The R1E goes up to 1/400. Nice for $20.

This lens should outperform the 3 elements 30mm f/3.9 lens of the 35R (and R100), right? But with the 35R we have a little more control, like the 3 apertures at aperture-priority mode, multiple exposure, manual zone focus, hot shoe, lens hood, and the possibility to attach filters.

 

I am unable to decide: better lens (is it much better?) or more control?

Hi,

 

Allow me to put a question:

That Canadian distributor has also a Ricoh R1E Super Slim (15USD). Can you tell me if this is a version of the R1? Is it a lower model or the same as the R1?

 

Thanks.

And there is also the Cosina 19-35m. The same lens with 3 different names?

?I was looking?

Sorry, I am still looking.

Hi,

 

I was looking for an inexpensive wide angle AF lens for my Nikon F65

(and for the FG, too) and apparently, according to my budget (more

or less 150 USD), I have two options: the Vivitar Series 1 19-35mm

or the Tokina Af 193 19-35mm.

 

They have the same focal length, the same apertures, similar

characteristics, and also a similar price. And even comparable

reviews (I check that after a brief google search).

I am not going to buy a better lens because I am quite sure that I

will not use it a lot. I also know that when I do, I will have to

stop down.

 

Do you have any experience with these lenses? Could you help me

choose between both?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos.

Robert,

 

Congratulations for your purchase. The FG is really a great little camera.

 

The dust you see probablly will not have any effect on the photos, but if it is very annoying you can clean the focusing screen. It is a very simple operation to do with the FG.

 

First, you have to remove the damper assembly, removing the Philips head that holds the assembly. Then, carefully lift the assembly up and out. After that, you may separate the focus screen and you can clean it. I use only warm water and soap. Clean it very gently and next wash it with clear water. Allow it do air dry and reassemble all again.

 

Put the assembly back in place and hold it with the mirror (set the camera to B, and fire once, holding the shutter release button; the mirror will snap up and hold the damper/screen assembly where it should be). Afterwards, you can tight the Philips screw.

 

Remember that there are two sides to the focus screen: one is a matte finish, and the other is smooth. The matte faces the pentaprism and the smooth faces the mirror.

 

If you need to replace the light seals, I recommend you the kit that Jon Goodman sells. It is very good and it comes with nice instructions. Last week I replaced the seals of an FG and I have cleaned the screen too, and it looks like a professional job.

 

Best regards,

 

Nuno Campos.