armand_amaral

This is off topic....

But does anyone know why B&H switched to UPS?

UPS is more expensive than FedEx, and takes to days longer, and you had better be home when they show up or you'll wait another day for your shipment.

So B&H, Why did you make the change?

Thanks again Dan.

I understand that Patrick Carpentier moved on to IRL. I am aquainted with one of the drivers for Champcar, and so perhaps I'll be able to get closer to the action. But since your a creditial holding type Photographer, How would I go about getting those hanging around my own neck for next year?

And you can't just got shot taking pictures of the freeway... Try taking pictures under the Golden Gate Bridge at dusk. NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE!

Thanks R.T., Jim, Ron, John, Kent, and Dan for your responses. Although I have never been to Laguna-Seca or shot a race, through your responses I can visualize how and where to be to shoot.

Dan I'm using a Nikon N90s. Thanks for the link to A&I.

Thanks Mathew,

I'll be there on Sat. Very early. I know one of the Racers and hopefully will be a little freer to move about. The Corkscrew always looks good on t.v. with the Super Bikes, I'll have to make that hike.

What about film, and film speed. I'll be using a 75mm-240mm f4.5-f5.6 and probably use the 2x converter.

Thanks again for your input

A.A.

I will be attending my first ChampCar race at Laguna Seca.

Any suggestions on film speed and locations to shoot from, would be

of great help...

Thank you in advance

I will be attending my first ChampCar Race at Laguna Seca Raceway,

Sept 10th.

Due to slow lenses (f5.6 /f11 with converter), I will be using ISO

800 for action shots. I am interested in lowest possible grain in

that speed. I have a preference for Fugi film. Fugi has three choices

(Press 800, Npz 800, and Superia 800)

I would be interested in your opinions and suggestions.

Also, if you've burned film at Laguna-Seca, where are the best spots

to shoot from, and amatuer photo restrictions.

Thanks for the input

Maui, big waves, shoot, shoot, shoot, OH SHHH

Carried out, The film and I survived, camera met its maker.

Processing fees at my pro lab are shrinking my equipment budget. In

the past I've tried "other" less expensive processing alternatives

with horrible results, learn my lesson and return to my pro lab. And

the circle goes on.

Now I'm going to give Costco 2 day service a try. I'm shooting

Reala, and my Costco processes on kodak paper.

Has anyone tried Costco, and if so, were you satisfied with the

results?

Thanks.. A.A.

Sunday Cruzin' at da park

http://www.photo.net/photo/2128866

Bill,

check out this site:

http://www.bermangraphics.com/artshows/artshowphotography.htm

I can tell you from personal experience that working an art show makes for a long day. If your a people person, its a blast.

I am, as always, impressed with the expertise of the people on this site, and your willingness and generosity to share it with a novice.

I have been shooting Fugi Reala and was very pleased with it. You hear so much about Velvia here that I just had to try it. Now I'm hooked on it. I take pictures in part because it gets me outdoors and in the moment. The pictures that I think are worthy, I enlarge and give to friends (lucky them). I was using seven prints made from the slides as proofs, probably a mistake on my part but that's to lack of the experience with slides and printing in general.

I see a Nikon coolscan in my future.

Thanks again,

A.A.

I have run through previous posts in search of a clear answer, and

now bring it here.

I'm shooting Velvia 50 (previously shooting Reala). When the slides

came back I was overwelhmed by how sharp and color balanced some of

them turned out.

I felt that seven of the slides were worthy of printing. The purpose

for printing was to then choose which I would enlarge.

First off the cost to print was $3.00 each. And the bad news was

that they were about 2 f-stops darker than the slide.

The lab that I take my film too is a pro lab and am pleased with

previous results. When I asked about the darkness of prints as

opposed to the slide, I was given an explanation that the prints can

never be as vivid or sharp as the slide. He tilted the slide at a 45

degree angle against a white background, and told me that this is a

good indication of what the result of printing would be, makes sense.

Okay, So whats the point of shooting in slide film if you can not get

decent enlargements?

There has got to be a way to acheive good quality prints from slides.

I know very very little about a pro drum scan, other than it is

expensive, which if the result is as good as the slide, I would be

willing to spend.

My question then is this: What are the different choices for

printing a quality slides?

Thanks for your input.

I was cleaning a lens tonight and noticed some circular translucent

specks which appear to be inside the lens. I use this lens at the

beach and thought perhaps that It was dried salt. Image quality

hasn't been affected. I guess that my question is "What does fungus

look like?"

Thanks in advance

Thanks for all the input!

The N75 and N80 would be compatible with the G and VR lenses, where the N90s is only capable of P and S mode.

Surprised that the F3hp nor the F-4 were suggested. The little that I know about the F-4 is that it is compatible with AF lenses and older Manual. Also that it is ergonomical confusing.

Thanks again to you all for your knowledge and willingness to share it.

A.A.

Hello,

I am looking to buy a used Nikon as a backup.

I would appreciate opinions that might be provided here. I'm mostly

into general photography, open to manual or auto SLR. F-5 and F-100

are out of my league, and I already own the N90s and lenses to go

with it, so it would be nice if the backup was compatible.

The drivers for XP and '98 are not the same. If you go to www.nikonusa.com, they should have the updated drivers that you can download for free.

Good Luck

I have a N90s, I too have noticed the same problem when I use my 50mm f/1.8 (made in China) . I have compensated for underexposure by of course using that lense manually. I have tried the "flicking" test (as suggested by Todd), and it responds correctly.

I also get better results from the N90s when I use Spot Metering.

Thanks Craig,

I am very new to using bellows. In the past I have used close-up lenses, and reversing the lens. I was pleased with the results.

The next obvious step in macro would seem to be a move up to a bellows system. But I've obvious stepped into a different dimension of photography, one that is going to be interesting to learn.

I appreciate your response.

I am attaching a Nikon PB-6 bellows to my N90s. I have an AR-10,

which of course will not attach to the N90s. The MC-25 adapter would

work, but will the MC-20 be sufficient to trigger the cam and bellows

simultaneously without having to use the MC-25 adapter if I was to

set the aperture on the lens manually?