paddler_b

<p>"...and by that I mean the ability to put a 5x linen tester on the print..."</p>

<p>Hmm, it must a mental illness, or fumbler's fetish...</p>

 

<p>That is stress fracture as it is mentioned before. Send back!</p>

<p>I am a wide angle man but not unnecessarily too wide. As such, I tested the zeiss 18 for landscape and some candid shots. What struck me more than anything else was lack of vignette even wide open on M8, pics did not need any further corrections for any flaws. I did not use any filter or coding for my test shots. Mind you these were all outdoor shots, and not a whole lot of black material in the scene. And the next good thing about *any* 18mm is that I still can use it on M8 without external viewfinder, you can pretty much see it in M8 VF.</p>

<p>Zeiss 18 is about $1000, not $4000</p>

<p>Nikon F always will be in a class of its own. They are height of Nikon dedication to quality. If you don't care about that FM series where very good as well.<br /> F3 will be the last of slrs I would part with....the viewfinder is just glorious</p>

<p>You can have all features of M8.2 except the S mode, including the body cover, as you may already know.<br>

I think the most important firmware upgrade beside bug fixes was the support for SDHC cards, and auto ISO...</p>

 

<p>I would get elmarit lenses for both. They are cheaper and a lot lighter than their cron version. And in case of 90 elmarit, it is a legend of its own. Depending where you buy you could be south of 2500...I would check auction sites too</p>

<p>For most part these are printing techniques, either he printed them himself or directed a print maker to do so. That, just adds to his vision and art. If you read his book he talks about some of it.</p>

<p>Bob, I was wondering, the opening in front standard is about 82-83mm. From what I have found on Rodenstock and nikon's 360mm specs I found they both are 80mm. That makes it tight but it seems there is enough clearance to mount it carefully. I know bellows draw is also tight but I'm not interested in table top photography. I guess you can tell I really want a longer newer lens...:-)</p>

<p>hmm...I have the V and the only way I can leave apo symmar 150 on is if I reverse it, which is ok. Does IV have more space in it, Bob?</p>

<p>Thanks all for the response. I guess I'll skip the lens. Don't want to enlarge the hole in the front standard...if that was the solution. I was planning to focus it on GG not RF.</p>

<p>Could someone tell me what is approximately the closest distance that this lens can focus on with a technika V? I know I can draw the bellows out to about 430mm and this lens is about 360mm for infinity...<br>

thanks</p>

<p>There is a tool for every task. As a long time M user and once upon a time wedding photog, *I* would say SLRs are the most boring of tools if I want to enjoy my photography, but they are better for wedding occasions. And leica Ms(including M8) are the funnest of cameras to use with unequal IQ, and they are the last thing I would take for weddings. My two deal breakers for choice of M8-weddings are the frame inaccuracy(upgrade fixes that for most part) and dealing with colour cast(it is fixable). I would streamline my tools for business with whatever tool that works best, M8 isn't it. Keep the fun stuff separate, M is my best friend there.<br>

In reportage, the M8 gives an endless run to all slrs with all their whiz-bang, slrs reach the finish line huphing and puphing...<br>

Finally, M8 rules in IQ, and I don't really care about 2500iso performance, the 1250iso pics that I print are by far better than any films I ever printed at 800iso.</p>

<p>It sounds to me you already have the essentials for your trip, the leica Ms. If you like new toys I would consider the following scenarios:</p>

<p>-Leicas and 4x5/6x12or617 combo<br>

-Mamiya 7II only</p>

<p>I would and have the first option, my other gears only get fondled on the coach. But the the leica and linhof go hiking and paddling regularly...</p>

 

<p>1. If the rollfilm that you find is for graflok it should fit your camera. On ebay sometimes decription is not very clear.<br>

2. You can make your own, I use a sheet of transparency that you can buy from staples. Use a permanent marker to draw the grid. Put it on the outside of the GG, toward your face. If you open the GG assembly make sure yo put it back carefully so you don't use your focus plane(this matters if you use the rangefinder).</p>

 

<p>I have a similar setup, got the double tank developing 12 sheets at a time. Inversion works generally speaking, you have to develop your own procedure. And tanks can leak a bit, you just have to be in the sink, not over the persian rug:-) Mind you inversion uses an awful amount of chemicals. I rotate it by hand, and use 1/4 of chemicals. I found my own timing for rotating for different films/developers.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Have you checked your eyes lately:-)<br>

It seriously happened to me!<br>

When I bought my M8 I noticed my any lens longer than my 35mm had focus problem. After blaming the M8 and all the lenses I came to peace with it that I should not use faster f-stops. Months later I got a new pair glasses that had +1 for my focusing eye. Magically the focus problem went away. The funny thing is I never noticed the focus problem on my M6. Nor did I ever noticed problem reading fine text, I still don't.<br>

So, it's either back focus or the front focus to blame, if none of those helped try a pharmacy reading glasses...:-)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Those black binder clips, work great!</p>

<p>"...Yes, we make mistakes, but when you compare the number of times that we drop the ball with the number of pieces that we handle, you would find that it's really only a tiny percentage...."</p>

<p>That is a great comfort! I would be in the tiny minority that gets screwed.<br>

Guess what, I'm also one that searches for user feedback before hand and decide to avoid you...<br>

I may be minority in my in my approach but, hey, I'm ok with that...</p>

 

<p>To use the rangefinder you three separate cams for each lens, and they are specific to each lens SN, if you want to be very precise; though, generic cams for each given lens kind of works. And yes the camera has about 20mm of fall if you drop the bed and tilt the lens to maintain parallel lines, or you can mount the camera upside or on its side to get more "fall". Search the net for a manual, there are some online things...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Linhof 4x5 version IV and V take lenses with 82mm back end...I use a grandagon 90mm 4.5. I get tilt-swing and about 25mm of rise at infinity, on closeups I get full rise and shift.</p>

<p>gigi,<br /> I think you are going to have a hard time with difference in size proportion of glass and the scene shot with a 90mm lens on 4x5 if you do a double exposure. If you shoot for real through the glass you need a very big glass to cover a 90mm and the angle of view of the scene.<br /> I'll see if I can send you an example I was thinking of, don't know how to post here.</p>

<p>I see it more as a wet glass with a scene behind it, but it doesn't say it is a rainy day, if that's you are looking after...it doesn't convince me that everything else is wet.</p>

<p>If you live in southern ontario and toronto area, where do you process your transparency films and how much do you pay for 4x5 transparencies?</p>

<p>Just upgraded a 2.002 to 2.004. Everything works well....no downside noticed.</p>