paddler_b

<p>".... I was asking because I really just want to be able to turn the camera on and be ready to shoot right away....'</p>

<p>And that is what you get. Simply touch the shutter release and that is how you confirm the lens that you already have defined. </p>

<p>"Rangefinders are called "Rangefinders" because they have Rangefinders in them. If you're used to the M6, you won't be very happy with live view focusing, I'm afraid. You should be patient and try to find an M8 for $2000 or less. It has problems, of course, but it's a real rangefinder. jamie"</p>

<p>I'm glad somebody brought this up. If you are a Leica M user and appreciate the Mness of it, you will not like what these alternatives are. They are all good cameras but they don't work like a M. My observation was you become camera centric oppose to subject centric.</p>

<p>I tried using my M lenses on two of mentioned alternative cameras, I bought one and returned after 10days, and then borrowed another one. The combinations were like bad jokes as far as my photography went.</p>

<p>I suggest to borrow, rent, etc. one of the alternative bodies and see it for yourself.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>You are right in that I was hoping it was a simple problem, mainly because I don't want to go looking again for another one. The seller has offered to take it back, wasn't expensive.<br>

At least in this case, it is not a battery issue, and not external dirt on contacts. There is something wonky between contact pins on the mount and internals of camera. It manifests itself with low battery display because, I think camera loops some current through the af-s lens, it doesn't see the proper current looped back, it things the battery is bad, while it is with circuits to the lens.</p>

<p>I tried all the suggestions, I cleaned battery contacts, different batteries, camera contacts, lens contacts, different af-s lens... still the same</p>

<p>The battery is good, I tried two different ones. And I cleaned the contacts.<br>

I found at least one other person with exact problem here:<br>

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1021&message=31306396&changemode=1</p>

<p> </p>

<p>hello all,<br>

Not sure what I'm missing... I'm coming back to dslr after awhile...<br>

Picked up a used D200 and was testing it. When I Put on my 17-35 af-s, the battery gage goes to empty, when I put the lens on M the gage comes back. I used to use this lens on d1x, and still use on f100 without seeing this.<br>

The camera works ok with manual and non-af-s lens.<br>

Anyone has seen this act? Is there anything in the d200 menu?<br>

It did this on its old firmware, it still does it on the new firmware:-(</p>

<p>thanks in advance,</p>

 

<p>oddly, when I was fiddling with my tech V for some reason, and after putting things back together the original metal piece seemed too thick for the original covering. So, some delicate fiddling is required in placing the shims back....</p>

 

<p>I think it is a mistake to sell the equipment that you enjoy to fund another piece of equipment. Wait and save your money for the new stuff. For price of about 250 lathe at a coffee shop you can have a zeiss 35mm/f2. That is less than a year :-)</p>

<p>I have the same unit. In my experience it is matter of the way *some* slides sit in their slots, some lean forward and some backward, so they bump into each other in passing. How I deal with it is to have the projector either slant up or down just a little so gravity keeps all the slides with the same angle in their slots....and/or run your hand over the slides from front to back or back to front to make sure they line up.<br /> I never have any of this problem with thick slides mounts, btw.</p>

<p>No pun is intended ...</p>

<p>"...Maybe there should be a website like DPReview.com that concentrates on the hardware with no pretense to artistry...."</p>

<p>There are plenty of publications that do exactly that, they ignore the tools and publish just photos. Why don't you get those?<br>

The Camera View is not likely a commercial success, it's more labour of love type of thing...with all its flaws that we all notice but over look, and hope for the best in the next issue.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>RF comes quite handy when it gets too dark to visually focus on gg, and it takes negligible space/weight.</p>

<p>Kindermann Canada will service it. The person's name is Jerry, give him a call.</p>

<p>I have purchased cameraleather kits for Linhof and was satisfied. It took a long time to get the kit, though.</p>

<p>Yes they do, the screw mounts need a M adapter, and newer M mounts just fit in. And they are decent lenses.</p>

<p>You didn't fully explained what you are trying to do, or maybe I missed it...<br>

You put an slr lens on a leica M to experiment and you are not looking for first rate results, due to nature of slr lenses and focus guesstimates...<br>

You waste your time with a slr lens and M body for portrait, the results will be wildly hit and miss<br>

Canon and Nikon RF lenses don't fit leica, distances are different, and I'm not aware of any adapter for RF to RF<br>

slr to leica RF adapters work fine from infinity to close focus, with zone focusing<br>

Be careful with cheap adapters, they can scratch your M mount on the body<br>

A Zeiss zm makes a reasonable(excellent in my opinion) alternative to leica glass if budget is a factor.</p>

 

<p>What is the language of this publication?</p>

<p>As long as there is LF film available and you can process it it's much easier and cheaper to shoot LF film and scan them than it is to use this kind of contraptions. I have tried it and occasionally still do. I made my own adapter. It is a big time waster for any serious work. With film you only need film holders in addition. Sinar just announced a mere $2000+ adapter similar to what you have seen...<br /> http://www.dpreview.com/news/1007/10072901sinarpslrsystem.asp<br /> A fairly simple device with big price tag. They make it sound as if they invented time machine....</p>

<p>Yes...</p>

<p>Updated my oem M8 with 2.005. The C mode problem is gone, I haven't seen any down side or bug in the upgrade yet....</p>

<p>And why are you not then buy the Fuji film holder instead? it is made for it...</p>

<p>I don't know how 545 holder operates, you can always buy a pack and try them. I highly doubt it. Even the box and spacing would fit the stuff still has to go through the rollers, etc....</p>

<p>T is a more deliberate design but functionally they accomplish the same thing. It's a personal preference really....I use T when it is there. But I won't buy something because it has T.</p>

<p>Been a leica m and slr user most of the time. Using M8 strictly for digital , shooting raw, and processing in C1. I'm happy enough that will not invest in other digital for a long time unless there is an earth shattering development(so to speak) in digital world. I still shoot film out of habit and merit.<br>

Consider RF differences to slr, and M8 doesn't make things easier with its framing. The only time IR issue really has really bugged me been in fashion shows, any other genre I deal with it through costume profiles in C1. I don't use IR filter or coded lens, the widest I shoot is 25mm, on longer lenses coded is not that big of a deal one way or the other, imho.<br>

Draw your own conclusion...</p>

<p>And there is a sort of more quite shutter mode in 2.004</p>

<p>I can't remember when they introduced the SDHC support and auto iso. I know there are support for the latest lenses in 2.004. You can upgrade and there is no down side.</p>