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<p>I have a Black Rapid strap; I'll never go back to a traditional neck strap. The BR strap is much more comfortable, and my camera is ready when I need it.</p>

<p>"The second thing you can do is meter the snow with your meter in reflective mode, and stop down about two and a half or three stops (usually). If you are shooting into the light on the snow, you may need to stop down more."</p>

<p>Michael - Don't you mean open up 2 1/2 stops? The reflective reading will place the snow on a middle tone. Opening up 2 1/2 stops places it into the highlights.</p>

<p>I use a WhiBal card because it's as close to perfectly neutral as possible.</p>

<p>I stacked my 35/2 on top of my 180/2.8 to simulate a 9" lens. It fit, but the lens will stick a bit above the lower padded portion. There is, however, enough flex in the material to easily zip the lower compartment closed.</p>

<p>FYI - the best price that I've found is $150 with free shipping:</p>

<p>http://www.sunnysports.com/Prod/MTSB.html</p>

<p>You might want to consider buying a camera that's already been serviced:</p>

<p>http://www.david-odess.com/</p>

<p>"I have to admit that DOF wasn't a problem I saw coming with this subject."</p>

<p>Do not underestimate the value of movements. You can tilt the plane of focus and get both near and far objects in focus.</p>

<p>I've moved on. I have fond memories that are captured on Kodachrome, but I'm not that excited about using it now because E6 films are much easier to scan.</p>

<p>I bought the latest version of the Mountainsmith Borealis AT in June, and I used it for a 2 week trip last month to the Pacific Northwest. It's an excellent pack - much more comfortable than other photo backpacks that I've tried. I'm on a business trip now, but I should be able to take measurements and get back to you this weekend.</p>

<p>I had no problems carrying a D700 with a 180/2.8 lens attached in the lower compartment. Don't forget the upper compartment - it's large, but unpadded, so you could use it with a lens case.</p>

<p>"I primarily want enough detail to print up to A3 (11"x17") with great detail fore to background."</p>

<p>Have you considered getting a camera with movements? You may appreciate the control that you can get over DOF using Scheimplug principles:<br>

<br />

<p>"Probably wouldn't scan, just contacts and select images to print up bigger."</p>

<p>Will you make optical prints? If so, then you will see a huge improvement over 35mm, even printing A3.</p>

<p>"Both Nikon and Canon stopped making dedicated film scanners, The last Nikon scanner I got was this spring; a Nikon 9000 built in 2009. Peak buying of film scanners occurred a decade ago; so did dialup modems and CRT's too."</p>

<p>Not true. The CS9000 ED is still listed on Nikon's web site. Also several people have posted on Flikr that they've very recently purchased new Nikon scanners. Availability is spotty, though, as Nikon makes them in batches.</p>

<p>People have been claiming fr several years that Nikon scanners are out o production - but no one from Nikon has made an official announcement.</p>

<p>"I always thought this forum was about giving good advice, not "getting back at people".<br>

Perhaps I'm in the wrong place.<br>

Or perhaps you are."<br>

Lighten up. Or do Apple fanbois have no sense of humor?</p>

<p>"High ISO is crucial at shooting indoor sports, even with fast lenses. Using my D90, I am frequently in the 1800+ range and the pictures look amazing."</p>

<p>You're lucky if you can get by shooting indoor sports below ISO 3200. Some venues where I shoot are so dark that I bump it to 6400 so I can freeze motion and get enough DOF.</p>

<p>It is my understanding that Nikon will support Nikon Scan on Win 7 64. In the meantime, try one of the workarounds that are available:</p>

<p>http://www.colorneg.com/nikonscan64.html?lang=en</p>

<p>"It has nothing to do with "pixel density". It has to do with magnification. To get the same size print or JPEG from a smaller sensor, you have to magnify it further."</p>

<p>Absolutely.</p>

<p>Either way, it's a rule of thumb, so test. Heavy coffee drinkers may want to use a tripod even at high shutter speeds.</p>

<p>Get a PC! (Time to get back at people who always recommend Apples whenever someone asks a PC question ;0)</p>

<p>I agree with Mark. </p>

<p>This has nothing to do with pixel density. And the relevant movement isn't the sensor. It's how much the image "smears out" when the sensor moves.</p>

<p>I can hand hold a Crown Graphic with a 135mm lens at 1/50 sec. But that's because 135mm is a slightly wide normal lens on 4x5.</p>

<p>"Full frame cameras are and will no doubt continue to be prized, and the D700 will be as much of that five years from now as today."</p>

<p>There's nothing magical about FX. It's just another format that has it's own strengths and weaknesses. I bought my D700 almost 2 years ago primarily because of its high ISO capabilities. If not for that one feature, a D300 would have suited my needs.</p>

<p>I prefer XTOL because it really digs more out of the shadows than my old standard, D-76.</p>

<p>If not, then all you're doing is sealing in Have you been using a desiccant in your current box? If not, then all you are doing is sealing in whatever moisture happens to be in the air when you have the box open.</p>

<p>Nikon would have the resources to make more scanners if people would buy fewer DSLRs!</p>

<p>See a doctor. This isn't the place to seek medical advice.</p>

<p>Spend the money on good filters - it makes no sense to put a poor filter on a good lens. I'm partial to B&W MRC filters, but there are other good choices, such as Heliopan. You may also want to consider using step up rings. That way you can fit your larger filters to lenses with smaller filter threads.</p>

<p>Try the unmetered finder first - it's only $30. You can always buy a metered finder once you're sure that you like MF. Alternatively you could try a Waist Level Finder. It will feel un-natural to you at first since you're used to using prism finders.</p>

<p>I usually meter once when the light is constant. Try it - you'll get really consistent exposures.</p>

<p>"im so chill that i need to put a heater aside my computer so he can work ; )<br>

still, i think that your suggestion was not the best i have read when someone ask why is print doestn look like is monitor.. my oppinion."</p>

<p>You're too chilled now, Patrick. Your first response was spot on!</p>

<p>"I wouldn't be surprsied that even the 9000 is no longer produced, but Nikon is releasing remaining stock slowly to keep the prices high."<br>

According to whom? A Nikon rep told me that they are manufactured in batches. And I suspect that they only make batches periodically because that are so busy making DSLRs and such. Besides - Nikon sets the price. They could push them into the retail channel at whatever price they choose.</p>