dave_wilson1

I have been using this for years on my D5100s in my editorial kit, small light and sharp. Enjoy!

When I still used to shoot freelance, mostly sports, back in the 80s I used an F3, N2000 (when it came out), two FM2s and a Canon F1 so that I could borrow some of the big Canon lenses the one paper had. Most guys I was around had Canon, a few used Nikon. Olympus had it's followers too.

I got the "you're today's winnng iPad" Geeeez !! Either way, agree, not the lens. There's no way that would show up lol ke that spot.

I take as little as possible. For simple editorial work and musicians I use a pair of D5100s one with 35/1.8 and the 18-55 kit zoom. For other needs I use a pair of D7100s with 20/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 180/2.8, 18-140, and I carry a cheap Sigma 55-300? for emergency reach just in case. I also still use my 400mm Nikkor ED-IF f3.5 when needed. Lots of cards and a few flashes.

Keeping a simple log for later reference is one aspect. Making more detailed notes or little drawings to refer back to specifically can be helpful to in order to recreate certain techniques. Model releases and other such formalities are a separate concern.

This is a hard question to answer because every circumstance is different. My objective is to get the meat and potatoes and then as much extra as I can. So front and center get some good clean shots then move off. The problem is that you can't always move around and you also need to get the rings. Plus if the kiss comes very fast sometimes so working alone limits your movement.

Fong stuff works good, I like it. Some don't care for it. Learn to balance the flash outdoors in shade and mixed light. Sun is OK for special circumstances like high contrast but normally open shade or just under the shade sun break off is what you want to keep the light soft and to keep the white dress, assuming there is one, from blowing out.

The Bronica PS 80 snaps into focus wide open better than the Hassie 7 element CF and similar. So does the CB by design. The CF is certainly sharp wide open but not like when it's stopped down even a little. That was my point.

I used to shoot a lot on the beach in NJ and the most I ever used was 2 stops. First the 80mm is not that sharp wide open, so I would still prefer f4 or f5.6. Next, consider the 100mm 3.5, that is a fantastic lens. If you're really set on an 80mm wide open, the six element CB is quite nice, but again different from the 7 element CF etc. Everyone will not agree with what I said, but I have owned a fair share of 80s including two T*, several CF, a newer C, CFi and CB, and have hand printed black and white for many years so I'm making my opinion based on experience.

So it's been a while since I used those, doesn't the body just free wheel like the SQ unless it's in dbl exp mode? I would guess it's the back, the cam(?) spacing is skipping or just off. I think it needs to be adjusted.

Your options pretty much rest with whatever your written contract says. Where you live and what laws apply are specific to your jurisdiction. There are more and more bad photogs around unfortunately. Do you have a written agreement?

Very nice. As I was taught along the way, and I am by far not a fashion expert, but I learned from a few great mentors, study all the classic publications like Vogue, harpers and New York Times Fashion editions when they come out on certain weekends to see the styles and trends and study the layouts and lighting etc. Let me just add that when you use the hands as in the first photo they are sometimes referred to as "headache poses" and get tired fast. So while it's always cool to use the hands, they can make or break what you're trying to do.

I use the 400mm 3.5 all the time. Check the filter in the removeable cartridge and make sure it is perfectly clean and not fogged. Don't use lens tissue it makes fibers, prefer use a pure piece of chamois and a huff of breath is good enough. Next with a flashlight shined through the front, check the recessed rear element for dirt or residue. If it's dirty this is a trick to clean. Use a long stereo-cleaner q tip and a little bit of alcohol or even vodka is good on the q tip and in two steps, immediate, right after each other: First gently swab the rear element with the q tip, then with a second one, cut a very small piece of cotton under shirt, about an inch square, fold it over the tip in a ball and tape it around the wooden shaft, this will be to quickly dry and polish the rear element. Practice first on something else to get the hang of it, like the back of a shot glass in a paper towel tube. As an alternate, you could also cut and secure a small piece of chamois around the end of a pencil eraser. Just fold it around and tape secure to the pencil shaft.

FWIW, I have been using the Hoya MC Sky-B for several years. I have had no problems to speak of with flare, image degrading or color cast. I do check my filters on a fairly regular basis for crud or fogging and clean with a 100% chamois if needed. Chamois is the only thing over the years I have found effective against film or fogging on the lenses. There was an article years ago (86') in American Photo by one of the SI photos who worked a lot of boxing matches up close and he said he uses chamois on his lenses before every match to minimize fogging.

Wow, this sounds so tacky and unprofessional. Don't sign anything and MOVE ON.

While I don't really do this any more, I have many times. I pre focus @ f5.6 and set my flash on 1/2 or sometimes TTL so that I can shoot faster in sequence if needed. I don't use rapid fire or multi shots, I watch and catch the right moments. Shooting a lot of high speed shots means the flash isn't recycling and you're likely missing the best moments IMO. Also, learn to shoot above your head without looking in the camera. I also really like using the lower cameras like the D5100 with the fold out screen, they work great over your head so you can see what's in the frame. Have fun!