ransomsix

My studio is relatively small. Originally I painted the whole area an off-white when I

built it, but quickly it turned into a giant reflector, with little control over the lighting.

I painted the photo area to match a gray card like stated in the last post, and it works

perfect. Don't buy the photo gray paint, there's no need, just bring a gray card to your

paint shop or home depot, and match the color. I chose flat to avoid any glare at all.

For a cheap price it's perfect now, at least for the size.

Even if it doubles as a darkroom, there's no need for black paint as long as you don't

have any light coming in. I've actually read it's better to have lighter walls in a

darkroom so that you get some diffusion from the safe-light without any danger to

your prints. I change my film in a white room with no light leaks, and it's never been

fogged. I've never printed in a dark room with black walls, they've always been

nuetral.

This is a bit late in the game for an answer, but a few years ago I did the same thing

with a roll of TMAX or Tri X 400, can't remember which at the moment. It went

through a full hot water wash cycle. I processed it at a Pro lab (telling them first so

they didn't run it with anything else). It ended up having images on the film, but it

was very thin...Everything on the negative was fairly flat. I never printed anything off

the roll, but with a little work something still could have come of it if it were

important stuff. It wasn't a complete "wash" as they say.

I've got a 433 for my Nikon, and I occasionally use it (with manual settings) on my old

Konica manual body, via the hot shoe. There is no PC cord socket on my 433,

however you could get a PC/Hot shoe adapter for the bottom of the flash, if your

other body only has a pc socket and no hot shoe. As far as I know little adapters like

that are inexpensive. I've used this flash for years along side a lot of other "higher-

end" flashes and it works just fine for everyday on camera use. TTL exposure seems

to be right on as well. I like the manual controls of Supak as oppossed to the digital

displays of the Nikon Flashes, which I tend to have bad luck with (cracking making

them unreadable).