joe_dahlgren

<p>Tom, getting rid of that texture can be a challenge, but it can be done.<br>

I have used G.K.'s method of using digital camera for heavy textured photos and it works well.<br>

Also, you might try scanning your photos at different angles instead of lining it up straight on the scanner surface. <br>

It may take a few tries at different angles to find the angle that has the least amount of texture showing. <br>

When you find an angle that has the least amount of texture in preview, scan your photo at two to three times the resoution you need. Then straighten it by using the Ruler tool to draw a straight line, then Image-Image Rotation-Arbitrary to get it straight. This rotation blurs the texture a little more. Then downsize to the resolution you need.<br>

Then try Surface Blur, along with Gausian Blur, and go from there.<br>

There are numerous ways to get rid of texture, a lot of info online. You can also check different Photoshop books next time in the bookstore or library. Seems that every one of them, the ones that have any info at all on this subject, uses a different approach. A lot cheaper than a new scanner.</p>

<p>Thanks Rick for your help, and the link to Kyphoto.com. I decided that I will not try and fix it. Looks like a nice camera though. Lesson learned to look at things in more detail in that rush to buy. </p>

 

<p>Hi Rick,<br>

Thank you for replying. I like this camera and would like to use it. From looking around the net it is an F2 version.<br>

I got it at a camera show today and didn't notice that only two of the shutter blades work till I got home in better light. The shutter speeds sounded good and it in looked pretty good condition so I bought it..........<br>

I have looked around the net for disasembly instructions, and I did find a web site that I had to use Google Translate to go from Japanese to English. I find it very confusing, but I think they are saying to remove the bezel first, then the silver ring, then the flat metal piece. Here is the link:<br>

<a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fsendai.cool.ne.jp%2Fayanoshippo%2Frestoa_14.html">http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fsendai.cool.ne.jp%2Fayanoshippo%2Frestoa_14.html</a><br>

Your thoughts?<br>

The problem with my camera other than the shutter blades, is that the bezel, the silver ring, and the flat metal piece that says Fuji Synchro MXL all turn with out unscrewing.<br>

Am I correct in assuming that silver ring must be held stationary while the bezel is unscrewed?<br>

On another site a poster mentioned that the flat metal piece on their camera was glued on. I am wondering if someone inadvertently unstuck the glue trying to unscrew the element by twisting the silver ring instead of removing the bezel first?<br>

I hesitate to get out the channel locks and go at it. I don't want to ruin the camera. I am not really good with delicate mechanical things. If this doesn't sound too serious I can take it into camera repair.<br>

Thank you for your help.</p>

 

<p>I have one of these Fujica 35-ML that looks like it has been used a few times and then put away.<br>

Trouble is, although the shutter speeds sound like they are all working, only two of the shutter blades close. The shutter works but only two blades open and close, the others must be stuck inside. The aperture and the two shutter blades have a slight discoloration in between them.<br>

Do you think this camera is worth fixing? Does this sound like a major problem or just from lack of use. Thank you.</p>

<p>Great portrait Maciek.</p>

These are wonderful photos Gene. I always look forward to your work. Having been around in the 50s, I think I know some of the cars......The car in frame 4 that beautiful gal is sitting on is a '54 Merc. In the background a '57 Plymouth Plaza. Frame 5 is a '55 Plymouth Plaza. My guess photos takenlate '50s. ?

The divers look like the ones that used to be at Marineland of the Pacific.

I like this film and have used it for many years. In 35, and 120 I get excellent results, however for some reason have not been able to duplicate that on 4X5.

My 4 favorite developers for Agfa 100, in order, are:

 

1. Rodinal-1:50 @68d, 17 minutes, agitate for 1 min-then 5 sec out of every 30 seconds. EI 100. I don't think you can go wrong with this combo, great developer, beautful results, it's cheap, it lasts forever, and easy to work with. You can also use Rodinal-1:100 @68d for 20 minutes.

(I have had great results using P.Gainer's; 1 teaspoon of Sodium Ascorbate per liter, at 1:50 for 8 minutes.)

 

2. WD2D+ 1:1:50 @68d, 9 minutes, agitate 30 seconds then for 15 seconds out of every 30 seconds. EI 80. I think it works well for those beach shots around noon. Makes those kind of negs very easy to print. Also sharp.

 

3. Xtol 1:3 @68d, 17 minutes, agitate 30 seconds-then every 30 seconds thereafter. EI 100. I really like this developer, very sharp results, however I have had some problems in the past with it going bad after my letting it sit around too long. I only use it now when I have enough film exposed to use it up. Works very well with TMX, TMY, and TMZ.

 

4. D76 1:1 @68d, 12 minutes, same agitation as Rodinal. EI 100. Also very good.

 

I would like to hear more about the coffee developers if anyone is doing that.

Count me in with the Retina. The IIa IIIc are great cameras. I use my IIIc more than any 35mm and have never had a problem with any of them. Meter still works, I almost never use it though. I am surprised at the value of these cameras. You can easily find them and they are not expensive. Agree with the post above that the Schneider lenses are very sharp. Make sure the numbers match on the front and rear elements. I am not a camera tech. I have had many Retinas and the only one that was not sharp was one with mismatching numbers on the elements. I was told by camera tech that they were matched when made and if you switch the front element and not the rear, performance drops.

one more<div></div>

I have to wonder how many people actually have seen Kodachromes that have faded due to projection. As examples, I have a freind who is an artist. He projects Kodachromes hours a day for weeks, sometimes months at a time using them as refrence for paintings. He has burned out many bulbs and a couple of Ektagraphic projectors just in the last few years. I have looked at his slides that have been projected next to others of the same subject that haven't, on a light box and other than dust, I can not see any difference.

 

I know a teacher who has been showing his Kodachrome slides for years to his art classes. These look fine as well. I have yet to see any that have faded. I have seen a lot of magenta and orange Ektachromes though.

From my own collection of slides, Kodachromes from 1949-50 that have been projected many times through the years and no fading. To my eye they look like they were just processed. All the Ektachromes and other brands that I have are magenta. Some have been stored in a drawer for more than 30 years in the dark and are magenta. All the Kodachromes still look like new. I have yet to hear anyone I know, that still projects slides complain about fading, but I have heard complaints about slides that turned magenta.

Sorry, here is the link I intended

 

http://www.artrenewal.org/articles/2003/David_Hockney/hockney1.asp

another point of view

 

http://www.artrenewal.org/articles/2003/Best_of_ARC/best1.asp?msg=7&forumID=8

 

http://www.artrenewal.org/articles/2003/Best_of_ARC/best1.asp?msg=20&forumID=8

Hi

The last time I used 5302, I ended up using a speed of 1.6 on my Luna-Pro. I really like this stuff for making b+w slides, developing in Dektol. I have also used it in my 35mm Nikon. Very sharp. For negatives develop in film developer of your choice.

I have had succes using Kodak 5302 direct positve release film to make b+w slides. Contact print and you can use a safelight, develop like paper. Real cheap also, I think that the last time I bought some it was about $14.00 for a 100 foot roll. You can also use it in a 35mm camera but ISO is about 1.6

I use a IIa, IIc, IIIc on occasion. I do think the lens on the IIc has a bit more contrast than the Xenon on the IIIc, my opinion only. I sometimes think the Ektar on my Signet 35 beats them, but hard to tell. I like using them all. The IIa is the easiest to carry around and slip in a coat pocket. They all seem to give good results. Here is a photo with a IIIc, Agfa 100 in Rodianl 1:50

Todd,

I am glad that you posted this about Weston. I also found it one of the more interesting posts I've read on here. Have you read Claris Weston's book? I found Edward quite an interesting character. More pictures please.

Thanks Mike. Just happen to have had luck. I like to play around with old cameras. Most of the time results vary but I have fun. For some reason the infa-red turned out pretty good. I did not have the same luck with Tri-X and my Brownie. Right now I am using an old Kodak Duo six-20 that I can get good results with if I pay attention to what I am doing. I hope to see others results with old cameras.

Very interesting Todd, I hope you post more photos. One thing I wonder about, are there any descendents of Weston's cats living at Wildcat Hill? I also looked for this place last time I was up that way, but could not find it...

I have a photo using a Brownie Hawkey in my folder.<div></div>

I wonder if some of those blurry photos on E bay from people who sell a lot of photo equipment aren't there on purpose?

 

Don't forget the Earth Shoes and Puka shells............Mike, Social Securtiy is already being sucked dry, and the "baby boomers" aren't even there yet. It will be interesting to see what happens in the next 10-20 years.

Mike,

I really like your pictures and that you use old cameras. I have and use several Retins II, IIa, IIc, IIIc. I know it is subjective but I think Retina they are under-rated. I also had and sold (I wasn't thinking) an Ikonta with a Novar and it took sharp photos. Nice work on your web site.

I have had my best results with Agfa 100 in Rodinal 1:50 in my Hasselblad. I have tried a lot of different developers with this film but really like Rodinal. Good luck.

In my last post I forgot to say that I do live in the US, and have had no problem getting Kodachrome processed. I have even taken Super 8 Kodachrome film to Wal Mart and had it back in week. I don't know for sure about this, but have been told that it goes to Switzerland for processing as there are supposedly only two places left that run Super 8 Kodachrome. So I don't really think you have to worry about it, right now anyway, the future is another story. Have fun.

Kodachrome is a great film. Here are some of my reasons from actual real world experience. First, I have never had a problem getting it developed, even taking it to dreaded Wal-Mart to send out,it came back in 5 days. You are not going to get it developed in a couple of hours, but should have no trouble sending it out. It will stand a lot of heat, in a hot car or in a hot climate that will trash E6 films. It looks beautiful, although I realize this is subjective.

 

It will last. I have Kodachrome slides that are over 50 years old that have beautiful color where my Kodak Ektachrome, Agfa, ect have faded to magenta. Then there are the people that say it is no good or won't last when projected. This might be true in a scientific test but I can tell you from experience that in the real world you don't have to give that a second thought. I fix Kodak projectors and have a friend who is an artist. He projects his Kodachrome slides onto large canvas to paint. I have seen him use the same slide for weeks at a time with the projector running for hours a day. I can tell you I have never seen anyone go through more projector bulbs, and I have looked at his slides after all this, mostly landscapes or old houses, and there is no fading, no deterioration. He shoots several rolls of the same scenes for his artwork meaning that there are slides he has never projected to compare with.

 

I like and use E6 slide films and there are some good films out there, but Kodachrome is a unique film that has a beautiful color and an almost 3D look to it. Look at a Kodachrome slide in a side light you will see a relief. The same relief that the people using Pyro developers in black and white rave about.

 

Put all the stuff you read about it and try it you may or may not like it but you won't have any trouble getting it developed and it won't fade.