vale_surfer
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Posts posted by vale_surfer
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<p>Hi,<br>
Any good book on natural lighting? - and making use of available ambient light. There are a couple of good books on studio lighting available on Amazon, but haven't seen too many that discuss ways to use available light.<br>
Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I use an EOS 400D , and a Canon 10-22 and have mostly been taking pictures of buildings recently. I shoot in Center Weighted mode though I tried Partial metering at times and overexposed/underexposed for bright/dark areas. The histograms from partial metering were ok but I don't want to be doing this too often. Is it ok to use Partial then when I'm only doing close ups of building detail and in , for instance, a backlit alley? Or can I keep using it as long as the histograms look fine?<br>
Thanks</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I've set Bridge to host Camera Raw edits when I double click on a RAW image in my Bridge workspace. Previously, when I edited the RAW pic in bridge and saved it as JPEG, the original RAW pic would not change. Now, however, when I make the edits in Bridge and save as JPEG, the original RAW pic changes to reflect the edits and these changes are saved to the original RAW pic. I can no longer view the original RAW pic in Bridge.<br>
I haven't made any changes to Camera Raw Settings in Bridge. When I click the 'Save Image' button in Camera Raw and do <em>not</em> click the 'Done' button, the original image stays unchanged yet the saved JPEG reflects the changes.<br>
Just out of curiosity, what must I have changed in the settings here that I don't know/remember? Thanks.</p>
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<p>Thanks, Don....Surely I do. I'm confused whether to make all the adjustments in Camera Raw itself and save as JPEG or make minor adjustments (such as shadows,using the recovery sliders in Camera Raw)in Camera Raw first , save the file as TIFF and then edit more in PS?<br>
Thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I have to upload my Raw pictures (shot in Adobe RGB) to a stock website. I need to convert my images to high resolution JPEG to be able to upload them to the website.<br>
What is the minimum that I need to do in PS? I don't want to spend too much time editing the pics. Most of the Raw pics have been correctly exposed (histograms slightly to the right or centred) though I will need to use the 'Recovery' and 'Fill Light ' Sliders . What do I do with 'Blacks' , 'Saturation' and 'Contrast'? Is it ok to reduce contrast and saturate the pics only a bit? How much saturation is generally ok for a pic to go up on a website? Do I sharpen at all?<br>
Suggestions are welcome.<br>
Thanks.</p>
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<p>Thanks all.<br>
So if I had to stick to my 100-300 for bird shots and since this lens is no good for architecture and street shots (except for architectural detail, maybe) what is a good lens for the kind of work mentioned in my orginial post - "<em>landscapes, architecture (exteriors of buildings, details and buildings at street intersections, alleys</em>,<em>etc</em>"<br>
I revised my budget for a single lens upwards to $700 - suggestions welcome, Thanks !</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I have a Canon EOS 400D with the kit lens (18-55) and also have a Canon USM 100-300<br>
I'm mostly shooting landscapes, architecture (exteriors of buildings, details and buildings at street intersections, alleys,etc) and birds (no closeups, and no BIF though) - if I had to buy <em>one</em> good lens, what could that be? I'm thinking of 10-22 for architecture but wouldn't be of much use for birds (I currently use the 100-300 for that).<br>
I cant spend in excess of $600 - and I would like a lens with IS.Can I get 2 used for 600 bucks?<br>
Thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
Which is a better monitor for editing in Photoshop? - the Samsung Syncmaster 2243NWX or the Viewsonic 2255 ? The Samsung is more expensive and I've read mixed reviews about Viewsonic monitors. Thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
Anybody has the Samsung Syncmaster T220 or the Syncmaster 2243 NWX flat monitors?<br>
I'm switching to the LCD from my CRT monitor, and liked both of the above. I do some editing in RAW using CS3.<br>
Are these good monitors or are there better ones available for the same price?<br>
Thanks.</p>
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<p>Thank you all for the great responses !<br>
<em>Geoff</em>, thanks and you're right - I'm trying to get shots of birds in context. I'm not too happy with some of the soft shots I get with the 100-300 especially since I need to get <em>large prints</em>. I've tried a few BIF shots though I do static ones mostly - but I'll surely try slower shutter speeds.<br>
A few of the lenses suggested apear to be suitable replacements and affordable. I need to shop for a used L !</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I'm shooting pictures of little birds in an urban setting - typically against buildings, industrial plants, etc. I have a Canon EOS 400D and usually use my 100-300 USM lens.<br>
Since I don't need to get great close ups of the birds, I'm ok with my lens.I usually open up to f5.6 to get the shot.<br>
Any ideas how I can use this lens more creatively? Or could you suggest a better lens ? The 100-300 isn't great , and I'd like a better lens but my budget is limited - can't spend in excess of $450.<br>
Thanks !</p>
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Thanks for that link.
I tried the Photo.net Photo tips section, couldn't see the clips after installing Media Player version 10 for XP. I was able to view a Yosemite clip but am not being able to play any of the clips now. My media player is the correct version - what could be the problem ? Thanks
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Hi,
Are there any really nice instructional videos(DVDs) available on Amazon? I'm not
looking for something as basic as Rick Sammon's photography Workshop but
something of the intermediate variety. Thanks.
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Hi,
I have a Canon Rebel XTi and am mostly shooting architecture currently.I usually
shoot in alleys and in early mornings/late evenings so there's plenty of contrast -
shadows and light areas. I wanted to get myself a light meter but am not sure if a
light meter is all that great with a DSLR?
I'd still like to get one, though, for tricky light situations. I looked up some meters
on Amazon and KEH but would appreciate recommendations - my budget is
under $ 150 (max).
Thanks.
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Thanks Ellis, So if I wanted them in Adobe RGB (and not sRGB), how do I get that? Image Processor doesn't seem to have that option.
Thanks.
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Hi,
When I'm using CS2 Image Processor to convert raw/psd images to .jpg, how do I
save them in RGB ? If I don't check the "convert profile to sRGB" box, what
will the color space be?
Thanks.
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Hi,
When I open a .CR2 file in Adobe Camera Raw in PS CS2(version 3.7.0.200 for
CS2), I get a drop down option to choose depth - 8 bit or 16 bit.If I choose
16 bit, I still get .jpg as an option in the 'Save' menu, is the program
converting the image from 16 bit to 8 bit? In that case, it shouldn't let me
save 16 bit as .jpg as it's doing. The file size is the same in any case.
Thanks.
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Hi,
I'm converting my stock in psd to jpegs, the original prints were scanned at
320dpi.
I have to save the images as RGB files, in Image Processor should I leave
the "Convert Profile to sRGB" box unchecked?
Quality can be checked at max (12?), and under "preferences" Run Action can
be left at "Default" and "Automation Workspaces" ? Should I leave
the "include the ICC Profile" box unchecked?
If I don't check the "resize to fit" box, are the images of the same size as
my original psds?
Obviously, I haven't used Image Processor (CS2, for that matter) much !
Thanks.
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Hi,
What's a good bag for a Laptop (light, the Thinkpad T60) and my Canon 400D. I
usually carry the kit lens (18-55) and the Canon 100-300 USM.
I'd prefer a backpack though a shoulder bag should be just as fine.I checked
out a few samsonite bags but could'nt quite find what I was looking for.
Any good bags out there that I can keep my laptop,camera and a change in ?
Thanks.
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Hi,
I scanned 150 odd images(prints) at 320 dpi and did a bit of work on them in
Photoshop. I saved the pics as '.psd' but now want my images as .jpeg. I
basically scanned them for the web but now realize that I need to open each
pic in PS and save as .jpeg. Can i expect a drastic reduction in quality? And
how to avoid that? Also , when I save these images as .jpeg, what quality/size
should I be looking at?
Thanks.
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Thanks all for your responses.
I should add here that when I originally wrote that I will be shooting architecture I should have mentioned that the buildings will be shot in 'context' i.e with human subjects or surrounding objects in the frame. For that reason, I don't really need to step back too far away to get a very wide angle view of the building.Having said that,I would want to capture enough of the building that is of interest.All the more reason for a wider perspective !
I think for architecural detail, my 100 - 300 USM is fine. It's a little heavier on my Canon 400D than it was on my Canon Rebel X film camera and is a little soft on the edges but I'm not too unhappy with that.
I'm still digesting all the information in the posts here and leaning a bit towards the Canon 10-22, the 17-40 and the Sigma but I guess I need to do more research. Thanks again !
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Justin,
I'm shooting Digital though metering and exposure basics should apply to digital as well.
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Hi,
I will be doing a lot of wide angle shots of buildings and some close ups of
architectural detail.Also some street photography.
I have the Canon EOS 400D with the 18-55 kit lens and a Canon 100-300 USM.
What are my options?
Thanks.
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Hi,
Are there any good books on metering (for instance, for
shadows,highlights,etc)? I have Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" but
I'm looking for a book with more specific examples and techniques.
Thanks.
400 D not turning on
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I have an EOS 400D - I used a Hako (Chinese) external flash on it for a couple of weeks. I wanted to use my camera today but it would not power on. I took out the battery and recharged it for a while - usually if I charge the battery even for a little while, the lights light up and the camera powers on. This time it hasn't , no lights come on and the camera does not power on.<br>
It could be the battery pack but I didn't notice any battery notification while shooting.Could this be a hardware problem? I will have to get this attended to by Canon but will appreciate if someone has encountered this previously and would like to comment.<br>
Thanks</p>
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