mark_kesper

<p>@Lex Jenkins! I see. Well, a EVF isn't really on the level for low-light yet. For that I guess my either old Sony A700 or Nikon V1 will have to do. My D2Xs is also quite bad at noise, even if you one can get by in BW mode. For the Fujis I guess one would need to carefully use already acquired manuel shooting and analog skills to carefully set the parameters and shoot a night. <br> Í've not bought the black X-E1 + kit lens for about $650. Is was sold as used, but it was a more or less new demo. So my friend now has that. <br> Not yet sure however if I'll decide on keepin the X-E1 yet. It's pretty nice. What I like about it is that suddenly a Full Frame isn't really as interesting as before. </p>

<p>@Lex Jenkins & Eric Arnold. <br> Thanks for the answers, and everyone else as well. <br> Well, as it happened the store had a used X-E1 + 18-55 (all black) that they got in and kindly reserved for me when I brought up the Accent + MF lens problem. The price is very good. So now I have to choose between: <br> X-A1 + 16-50 <br> X-M1 + 16-50<br> X-E1 + 18-55 (black).<br> and the X-E1 silver I first bought.<br> I am honestly thinking about choosing between the X-M1 or the silver X-E1. Besides getting the black X-E1 + 18-55. <br> One X-E1 + 18-55 for a loan and use to my friend and the other (M1 or E1) for me. The X-M1 has a faster CPU - but unfortunately no PDAF. But it should in theory be faster and that would also allow for bigger firmware updates? </p>

<p>Well, so some conclusions.<br /> I bought the camera opting it to be for a friend to use. As a kind of "borrow this, and use it". That using mainly my nikkor and minolta lenses (to keep it cheaper so far, and since those lenses in general are fairly/really good primes) and also because the Fuji seemed to give high hopes and also because it's a very light and small (not very, but compared to a DSLR) camera. <br /> I also got a 14 days (extended to monday due to holidays) time to return it if me or my friend didn't like it and it turned out to be a wrong purchase. Very gracious of the store. <br /> Conclusions: <br /> - EVF: I can't judge if the EVF is good or bad, but by todays standards it seems OK. However I find my Nikon V1 EVF alot better even thought it 's a whole nearly 1 Mpixels less resolution (1.44). The EVF on the X-E1 seems a bit grainy. It's laggy when it's dark or mixed light, but that is not strange and it's possible to somewhat compensate or live with it. However that's personal preferences. As far as competition goes, Sonys EFVs seems better and more "smooth" in operation. <br /> - Focus Peaking. The main idea behind this purchase in order to use the camera at all was to use Focus Peaking (Fuji: Accent, setup screen 3 or 4.) The Focus Peaking is well, a mixed experience to say the least. <br />The silver/yellow/white shimmering is mostly OK on the rear screen, but both "High" and "Low" settings are very very discreet, and in some cases non-existent in the EVF - which kind of ruins it. Paradoxically, it seems to depend on that the EVF has a higher resolution and the Focus Peaking effect is pixel bases. (See a bit down to some suggestion of improving it). Here the Sony Focus Peaking (as tested on A58 and A77 in a store) wins easily. Also since there is only one choise of color for the Focus Peaking/Accent, it doesn't work well in bright or well lit situations or when there isn't enough light and on some skin tones/hues as it seems (did som tests in a dimly lit room). Very hard to find focus then. <br /> In BW mode however, the Focus Peaking/Accent shimmering pixels and contours stand out very well on the other hand, so shooting Black & White seemed easier, i e finding focus was a bit faster. <br /> As of now I settled for the following routine for finding focus with the manually operated lenses: <br /> 1. Try to find a area where there seems to be focus by looking for the Accent shimmering. <br /> 2. Press the rear small wheel to zoom on the focus box, turn it to get it bigger/smaller and fine tune focus. <br /> 3. Press again and check if it seems OK.<br /> 4. Take Picture. <br /> Another approach that might have worked would be having the lens as open as possible, and first find focus, then set the aperture. That in order too keep maximum light flowing in on the sensor, which in theory should enhance the focus peaking function. <br /> Suggestions for Fuji or if a Fuji representative reads this: <br /> 1. Make it possible to setup the camera config to shoot in BW mode IN THE EVF & rear screen, but the pictures to be in Colour (if JPEG). The RAW will still be a RAW in any situation. <br /> I'm aware that it might be a terrible idea but that would be a workaround. Also in BW one does focus more or geometry and composition sometimes. <br /> 2. Please Fuji, more colour choices for the Peaking Accent. I'm not sure which colours, but a more pure yellow, red, green or something. Red and pink could theoretically be very visible with EVF/Rear screen in BW mode (as above). The colours have to be possible to be used by people with colour perception deficiencies of course. <br /> 3. Two different tones/colours for the focus. Kind of like this: If something is getting in focus or close to focus, ie not perfect focus but compared with the point that are in perfect focus closeby, then they have one sort of accent indication (perhaps a colour), but the points that are in perfect focus according to the camera, they get another accent (another colour). And/or stronger light. <br /> A variation would be in the whole focus peaking would remind of how FLIR cameras work. Example for inspiration: http://www.flir.com/uploadedImages/Thermography_USA/Industries/ATS/Images/1344x784-Cooled-InSb-14um-Pitch-SC8300-motorcycle.jpg. Of course maybe not exactly like that but something that way. Different sharpness has different colours. <br /> Another variation could be that depending on the colours in the scene the Focus Peaking accent uses a contrary colour that stands out. But that would probably be very computing intensive for the camera on-board electronics. <br /> 4. The EVF and it's functions is a question about angles. So basically they can get more and more resolution, but their function has to based on the resulting angles. Therefore the Focus Peaking in the EVF needs to be a bit thicker, or the pixels need some sort of grouping function. <br /> 5. Lastly, please make it possible for the MF distance scale to be switched off. Otherwise it always like a photogrammetric tool. It's really in the way when shooting 1:1. <br /> On a sidenote: I do understand that Fuji and other cameramakers might primarily be interested that buyers use their cameras with their intended lenses, but today every camera maker has a legacy of different lenses, and the culture of photography is a alot of mixing and trying lenses on various equipment.<br /> <br />The handling is pretty straightforwards, coming from analog cameras. Very easy to set and so. Kudos to Fuji for accomodating both a internal flash and a flash hotshoe on a such small by todays standards camera, when other (Nikon 1 series) have either one only. <br /> The lenses I've tested the camera with where two Nikkors 24 mm f/2.8 AF-D, 50 mm f/1.8 G and the Sigma 14 mm f/2.8 EX HSM (not fisheye). <br /> <br />So overall, it has been quite tricky to find the correct focus. Not something done very fast. And also dependant on the lenses focus throw. <br /> Which brings me to the sensor. <br /> Well, when the focus gets right, the results are quite impressive. Especially in post-processing. For a long time user of Fuji Superia (cheap and good, especially the 800 ASA) film the colours are quite good and the files have a slightly filmlike rendering. <br /> A small gallery I put online from today: http://teheimar.smugmug.com/Fuji-X-E1-Test/n-hzzzm/ Two similar pictures. From RAW-JPEG shooting. The JPEG is usually the second one and more "duller" or muted in colours. Most BW are out of camera. The first in every pair is usually the developed raw. No post-processing except for the RAW-developer.<br> <br /> Conclusion: Well. I honestly have mixed feelings about this camera. <br /> On one hand, it's really hard to use and compared to my photographic experience I need to use the basics I learned on my analog cameras. Which makes all automation and faced-paces photography simply not really possible and leaves me wanting to go buy the Fuji lenses (they are expensive). Since the camera was intended as a sort of present, and it failed due to the Focus Peaking problem (my friend also wears glasses, which should be taken into account), it clearly can't be used as intended in this case. <br /> On the other hand, when you get the image in focus, and then see the result, it seems like a really good sensor, which might it make worthwhile or make one wonder if one should but another model or lens as well. With that sensor, a fullframe seems a bit... less interesting. One wonders how a Fuji Full frame or Medium Format sensor would be.<br> <br /> Kind Regards. <br /> Mark Kesper.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Wow, thanks for all the answers. Didn't expect that many.<br /> I'll write a longer and more detailed answer later.<br /> However I'd like to share some thougth from some tests.<br /> It works good with the Nikon bayonet glass I have, (24/50mm + Sigma 14 EX), but manual focusing is a bit tricky and the LCD screen isn't very good for checking sharpness. The EVF is somewhat harder to use for manual focusing. A downside with the adapter is of course that the camera gets a bit unbalanced and large.<br /> For just reasonable more it seems to be possible to buy either<br /> (all used)<br /> A Fuji X-A1 with 16-50 mm (very little more cash).<br /> A Fuji X-M1 with 16-50 mm (some more)<br /> A Fuji X-E1 with 50 mm (50% more)<br /> A Fuji X-M1 NEW 16-50 + 55-230 (50% more).<br /> Which would you pick?<br /> I'd say that a Fuji - due to the focusing being very slow with MF and rather slow with Autofocus it would be best used for pictures where there is time to set all parameters, like some portraits, landscapes and such. That could be a good compliment to my Nikon V1 setup that is well.... VERY fast and which I really like and use alot. But that hasn't the full resolution power or dynamic range (even thought it's very very good for a camera that size). <br /> The Fuji makes me think alot more when composing and therefore reminds me more of the Zenit EM I started out photography with.</p>

<p>Hello! <br> I have recently bought (just to test, not sure wether I'll keep it) a used Fuji X-E1.<br> Since the lenses are a bit steep in price, and the price for the X-E1 was quiet good, I thought of testing it with a adapter and my usual Nikon lenses (AF/AF-D and G) and maybe some Minolta MD/MC glass I have using focus peaking.</p> <p>I have also seen a couple of M1/A1 with kit lenses for sale. I guess that it's Fuji users switching to X-T1.<br> So I wonder wether it's a OK idea to use a X-Trans sensor camera exclusively for a time with MF lenses? Would the focus peaking suffice?<br> Fuji X-lenses are no doubt wonderful, but since I am mainly a Nikon/Sony shooter I'm not just jumping systems at once. What I am interested in testing is the X-trans for portraits and landscapes in general and in dusk/twilight. </p> <p>Kind Regards<br> /Mark Kesper<br> Sweden. </p>

<p>@Wouter Willemse<br> Ah, I see. Well, for me it's the same use, raw to jpeg conversion with adjustments. <br> I kind of miss the old C1 (v4) work method where you stacked first all the images and adjustments in a que and then pressed "batch" and the computer worked 100% for like 30-60 min (did freelance work then). Now the computers starts converting as soon as possible (and sometimes with some sort of strange delay). <br> Where I'd like to have instant redrawing and adjustments is the basic adjustments like exposure, contrast etc (they are quite good thought) but also sharpness and noise reduction as well as hue and such, they can be rather laggy.</p> <p>I have looked both at AMD and nVidia cards, but not choosen any "side" yet. </p> <p>My computers specifications are in general:<br> AMD X6 (six-core) 1100T 3-4 GHz.<br> 16 GB 1600 MHz ram (can go up to 2400Mhz)<br> Asus 890FX motherboard. Some sort of high-end throughput gaming (don't remember the name).<br> Intel 120 GB SSD (OS)<br> An array of various disks from Server to low-powered Green types. <br> So in general the computer should be pretty quick.<br> Windows 8.1 64-bit. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello! <br> I'm wondering if anyone who is using Capture One (or Lightroom) as well as Photoshop has noticed a really big difference after upgrading the graphics card to a newer one?<br> Background: <br> I use C1. <br> At the moment I have a (old) nVidia GTX 260. It's OK but according to Phase Ones website it's not supported amonst the OpenCL GPU-accelerated cards. As well as too little on-board memory (has to be 1 GB or more). <br> So therefore I'm thinking of upgrading.<br> What I'm interested in is if the adjustments in raw-capture development get done alot quicker with a modern GPU? Instead of waiting for a couple of seconds. Ideally it would of course be nice if the adjustment were more or less "real-time" while moving the sliders. <br> Kind Regards<br> Mark Kesper</p>