mark_kesper

<p>Did the link above work?</p>

<p>Aw, sorry. I forgot to make a link for it. My bad.<br /> Here is a correct link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t0pkrmc9al571k5/AACZo2GSmwYJofKzdBpdOFyoa?dl=0</p>

<p>Hi!<br /> I recently took out from the storage my Minolta Dynax 4 and discovered that is seems to have a vertical yellow stripe along the viewfinder. Considering that I'm the only owner (and it's one of my first cameras that has been together with a few other been very influental about how I take pictures) it's kind of a bummer. <br /> So I'm wondering what it might be? Is it a variation of the Blue Viewfinder tint some Dynaxes get affected by? Or is it something else? Does it affect the images or the focusing sensor? Is it possible to repair?<br /> Took some images of it using my smartphone. Sorry for the bad quality. <br /> 1. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photonet/Minolta?preview=WP_20160403_12_45_13_Raw.jpg">Link</a> (Dropbox)<br /> 2. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photonet/Minolta?preview=WP_20160403_12_45_16_Raw.jpg">Link</a><br /> 3. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photonet/Minolta?preview=WP_20160403_12_45_32_Raw.jpg">Link</a><br /> Since also the corners seems affected I wonder whether it's something at the mirror prism that off-center, focusing screen needing re-adjustment?.</p> <p>I recently bought a Sony 70-300 G SSM to use with this camera (have a older 505si that doesn't work with it since the SSM requires newer chips I guess) and trying to find use for my A700 also.</p>

<p>I usually shoot JPEG + RAW since long. And try to make the JPEG as good as possible even if it's a bit hard.<br> However I wonder if it's maybe for tricky lightning and night photography better to shoot a lower resolution JPEG than full resolution (I always have the RAW) if the camera that way resizes the full rez image to a smaller one and noise "drowns" in the downscaling process? <br> Anyone know how that would work? Or would the noise get worse? <br> Say that instead of 24 MP JPEG+RAW one would use 16-18 MP JPEG + RAW?</p>

Hi! I would like to ask if anyone with experience can give any recommendations about the following: Is either a A700 or a A580 and a Sony 70-300 4.5-5.6 SSM G is a good combo for telephoto action and perhaps portraits (various lighting conditions). I have a A700 which focuses incorrectly with a Sigma 17-70, so I sold the Sigma after failing to adjust the camera. But I am offered a 70-300 G for a OK price and I am thinking if it's worth keeping the A700 and calibrate it solely for that lens. Or if the A580 is a better choice? Reason for not getting newer camera: 1. I'll probably be buying a NX1 and all EVF cameras today drain the battery faster than OVF cameras still. I want to be able to wait and measure/focus for a long time if necessary. 2. Budget limits. 3. Also..the A580 seems to score quite ok according to DXO. 4. I have a Nikon D2Xs that in theory should be quicker with the right lens but I am not exploring that option now due to the whole package being heavy -Sonys cameras are a bit lighter- and for ISO 1250-1600 I'm not sure the results will be sufficient.

I know that, and have read the manuals. There it sounds,quite simple. Now what I want is to know is if it also really that simple and bug-free in practice. That's a different question. Because say the process is really buggy and slow - then there is no point using that system perhaps.

<p>I am looking into how Samsung but also other brands like Sony, Nikon etc have implemented the transfer to smartphone/tablet or straight to Social Media or online storage options.<br> So mostly I'd like to ask if someone has had any experience with those apps like primarily Samsungs (Smart Camera App/Manager and their "siblings") or Sony's Play Memory app - is it a breeze to use or a horrific expericence? <br> Looking for a way to transfer batches of full-res JPEGS from camera to smartphone in a very efficient and easy way. If an app is far to unstable and tricky to use it's kind of a downturn. In the manuals for Samsung NX1/NX30 and Sony A77ii it sounds really easy.</p> <p>As a alternative I have maybe thought connecting a SD-card reader to a smartphone, but I don't know if such readers exist. It has to be quiet fast. </p>

<p>@Patrick S Well, I have had thoughts about selling the entire system just because of that. On one hand used Sony and old Minolta equipment is really good and fairly cheap. On the other hand nothing new seems to happen. <br> I have also thought of keeping the lenses and moving to a NEX/E system. However, those cameras are not as ergonomical, even if they have really good specs. But - it would mean buying a A-/E adapter and maybe not being able to use the flash. </p> <p>@parv Yes. Indeed. that's sad. I have tried adjusting but I think i need a prime for doing it really good and a tripod to. Sorry, but I am not really interested in buying another A700. I would be more interestedc in a A580 or similar, or a A850/A900 if they were cheaper. At the moment I am saving up to be able to move so that's why I am not just buying something new. </p>

<p>Hi!<br> I have a Sony A700 which I suspect has the focus off. I have tried calibrating it myself since sending it in would require postage to another city (more expensive then the camera is worth) but with a Sigma 17-70 it's not really easy. <br> Is it worth keeping it and trying to get hold of a 50 mm 1.7 prime or similar of better to sell it off together with the rest of the Sony equipment: <br> Flash HVL58AM<br> Sigma 17-70 mm f/2.8-4.0 (non-C)<br> Kit 18-55 lens.<br> Minolta 80-300 mm f/4.5-5.6<br> I have had an ad for the Sigma and the kit lens for a while here online in Sweden, but the interest seems to be really low for Sony/Minolta A here. <br> Or is it smarter to try and get a A580/A57? </p>

<p>I wonder if a SB-24 would be OK off-flash for a Nikon V1 and SB-N5. Can't I trigger it using the SB-N5 in some manual trigger mode?</p> <p>Saw here in Stockholm in the classifieds a SB-24 quite cheap so thought of buying it. </p>

<p>@Stephen Lewis<br /> Thanks. It seems that the camera was front focusing. I have tried to adjust the focusing by using this method. <a href="http://www.dynaxdigital.com/sony-alpha-crop-sensor-camera-discussion/method-for-adjusting-backfront-focus-on-the-a700-and-other-sony-cameras/15/">http://www.dynaxdigital.com/sony-alpha-crop-sensor-camera-discussion/method-for-adjusting-backfront-focus-on-the-a700-and-other-sony-cameras/15/</a> since sending in might cost quite alot and cost more then the 50% of the camera worth nowadays.<br /> Here is a gallery with some (65) test photos https://www.dropbox.com/sc/o7jdbo0f1axwsc4/AABlfB0InAMVSIhLLjl7If-7a#/ . Most of them are taken at different focal lengths, but mostly with max aperture (f/2.8 - 4). Focus is mostly the central sensor spot. Since I'm not sure of how the 100% in focus and 100% crop looks like, I'd appreciate if someone could verify if the adjustment worked of if it's still a little front focusing.<br> Also, I'm not sure if the resulting sharpness and resolution might be whata Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC HSM (non-C) can do. I don't have any prime lens for this system. I guess it would have been easier with a 50 mmm f/1.4. </p>

<p>Hi!<br> I recently bought a used Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC OS HSM MACRO, the non-C version for a fairly good price and I am testing it on a Sony A700 I do have.<br> It seems farirly OK and so, but I sometimes wonder if the focusing is right. <br> So my questions: <br> 1. Any tips & tricks for how to use properly or better the Sony A700 AF focusing system? I've read the manual but it didn't really clear anything up, it seems that there isn't any good way to make pinpoint while in "wide" AF-mode the camera to use the focus points on the side, it just uses them now and then. <br> 2. How do I really test if the Sigma Lens if focusing correct, and /or Front och Backfocusing? I've got 2 weeks to test it and take it back to the store if it's not functioning correctly or just happens to be incompatible. </p> <p>Also, anyone who knows where to find a better explanations of a configuration for the Creative colors? I find them a bit on the strange side. I usually use a big Nikon so there everything is rather straightforward. <br> Otherwise the color rendering seems fine as long as one doesn't trust the screen to much. </p>

<p>In conclusion I bought the Sigma 17-70 for Sony.<br> Howeever it turned out to be the previous Sigma 17-70 non C HSM MACRO. But the price was OK so I'm trying it out. Trying to see if I have some issues with it. Together with the big flash it seems to work well. Of course in twilight it's has problems finding focus fast, but that's unusual.</p>

<p>@Wouter Willemse, Jochen Schrey & Edward Ingold and also Robin Smith. <br /> To answer the question about which camera I like to use most. Well it depends, but usually it's the big and small Nikons. I really like along time ago to use my Minolta Dynax 4 before I switched to digital and got a Nikon D70/18-70/SB-800 flash. With that I generated most of the images I have. Essentially since I learned it good. I have not used the Sony A700 alot due to uing my old Minolta lenses on it wasn't really a good idea. <br />So I am looking at having at least one complete package. The Sony might be worth as a test to fit that bill since I have a flash as well. However I'm not against getting a 18-70 again and sticking it on the D2Xs together with a SB-800 flash - same price. But the weight of that keeps putting me off. And somehow I doubt that the 18-70 is really good in terms of resolution and focus speed. But maybe someone has tested that.<br /> Overall, you have a point about saving the rest for a big upgrade later on, and that's what I intend to do (Wouter & Jochen)<br />A D7100 or D300(s) might be a alternative i I continue with Nikon.<br /> Btw, I Nikon will repair my 1 system 10-30, it seems it got the lens error that some of them get over time. As I understand it is covered by the warranty.<br /> I'm not against Fuji, but as said here, it's a bit more expensive system to buy in into and while I really like the rendering output, it wouldn't make economical sense for me to invest in it now. <br />For the actual money now, the Sigma lens I tested is worth a test compared to the Sony SSM 16-50, which is too expensive - especially considering the future for the A-mount. The only real difference would be that it's weather sealed (so far).<br /> Pairing the big D2Xs with a 18-70 would be nice, but I'm not sure about the result, might be slow. And the total system weight with that and flash would be not your typical "walkaround" choice. (around 2.5 kg?) The D70 equivalent was a I remember around 1.7 kg which is well still heavy after 3-6 hours. :)<br> *EDIT* Just for interest sake I calculated approximatelyhow much the Sony system with the Sigma would weight.<br> Approximate:<br> 1. Big Nikon: D2Xs + 18-70/3.5-4.5 + SB-800 = ca 2.5 kg<br> 2. Sony A700 + Sigma 17-70 + HVL58-AM with batteries (ca 200 grammes) = ca 1.8 kg<br> 3. Fuji* X-E1 + 16-50 + Nissin i40 with batteries (202 + 200 grammes) = ca 1 kg. <br> Well, Fuji wins here obivously. *Bad t's a to expensive choice atm.</p>

<p>Thanks the responses.<br> Was at the store testing the Sony DT 16-50 F/2.8 SSM lens and the Sigma 17-70 F/2.8-4 HSM C DC lens. <br> Prices: Sony: 420 Euro. Sigma 156 Euro. <br> Well...<br> Sony: Heavy, really fast, quiet, VERY quick follow focus reaction (updating focus while you pan and zoon) together with the Sony A700 eye-start sensor. Impressive. A bit heavy zoom control. Nice bokeh, quite uniform.<br> Sigma: Not as heavy, but not far behind. Really quick follow focus reaction, not far off, but still noticeably from the Sony lens. Impressive reach and still very clear in the viewfinder. Good bokeh, not as uniform as the Sony but well, still better than my Nikon 24 mm F/2.8 AF-D in many situations. <br> Both lenses seems clear. Shot indoor just to check. <br> The camera together with Flash and either of the lenses is fairly heavy. So going for a better zoom kit might be OK as a One short-medium distance camera package. <br> They also have the Sony SAL 50 F/1.8 (70 euros) and 85 F/2.8(140 euros) for sale, but that would leave me with the same problem as on the Nikon side: Nothing in wideangle or normal. (3 light cheap lenses would be OK). </p> <p> </p>

<p>@Wouter Willemse:<br> You have a point. I am a Minolta/Sony Fanboy. But have use mostly Nikon more seriously, how strange that might sound. Noticed that long ago (D70 + 18-70 + SB-800) that when I actually read how the CLS system, Nikon AF-system and Flash actually works, I learned alot and the pictures got better - i.e it got easier to convey what I wanted the pictures to show. Before that I used both analog and digital canons from the editorial stash.<br> I like the sony for it's "minoltaness" and lightness (Dynax 4 for those who remember where light and pretty fast)<br> I like the big Nikon for it's sheer power and speed and reliability. And spread of focus points in the viewfinder. <br> As someone who has shot alot of analog film on Fuji film Press and Supera, I do like the Fuji color rendering. But find the cameras abit slow in handling. <br> The V1 system stays as backup due to it's unobtrusiveness and speed. The Nikon 1 system isn't really mature yet, even though the V3 seems like a great step forward.</p>

<p>@Rick Helmke: Thanks for the answer, even thought it's a short an concise one. Thanks for reading a long post. :)<br> @Jochen Schrey:<br> Thanks for the answer.<br> About the Fuji: Well I read somewhere that Fujis own flashes were a bit so/so. However I have read on various blogs some pretty good opinions about the Nissin i40, which also seems to be more compact and still being powerful.<br> You are right abuot the pricing on Fuji equipment. It's kind of strange. However I thought if I'll buy a 16-50 kit lens - that receives fairly good reviews, it would be a used one, about 100-120 Euro. It's best parameter is that it goes to effective 24 mm and is light. Plus ppl are not as sceptical to the Fuji rangefinderstyled cameras (goes to the V1 as well) compared to the big DSL systems.<br> <em>I'm not doing anything exceptionally strange or so in photography, it's just a one who has done some press photo and social photography you quickly discover that equipment choices also depend on whom you're gonna picture. Many are afraid of cameras - that's when discreet and dimunuitive equipment is really good. </em><br> Otherwise Fuji is expensive indeed.<br> Sony/Minolta: Well, I agree about the weight. I wouldn't like to have anything really heavy as a walkaround, general purpose lens since the A700 is light, but together with the HVL58-AM flash it gets heavy. And yes, daylight during summer is usually sufficient to stop down. f/4.5-6.3 is very usual.<br> The Sigma 17-70 would cost me ca 150 euro (used). I'm going to go test it and compare it with the Sony 16-50 2.8.<br> Focuswise the Sony A700 is OK. It's not as fast as the D2Xs of course, but it's very very exact in the center (only one dual cross sensor).<br> And then we get to the Nikon. Well, the main problem or blessing there are the AF/-D lenses I have. If I would have AF-S Lenses I'd buy a 3200/5100 and keep it light and high resolution. I must admit however I like the AF-D lenses. So I have been thinking about a D300(s). Not sure how such a camera would fare today.<br> A DX 35 mm lens or a 28 AF-D 2.0 lens isn't what much. However a D300 is 300 euros or so. <br> Flash for Nikon: Well in most cases the small SB-400 is good. However it's not controllable and one can't tilt it sideways. So that the whole reason for it. Flash is more important the darker part of the year otherwise.</p> <p>I am otherwise looking at upgrading later on to either Nikon 1 V3 or Samsung NX1 and changing systems altogether. However that's another story and not really affordable atm.<br> I do usually carry dual systems. Exactly as you described it I shot at a wedding. The Nikon D2xs with fast primes and the Sony with the 70-300 and flash. Worked good. Usually the 1 system is more or less always with me, and on the long end I use it primarily since the OS is really good. I wouldn't however recommend buying the V1 since it has it's annoying quirks (Nikon..... firmware updates please?)</p> <p> </p>

First, why posting here since it's a equipment related question? Well, because some beginner may get into similar situation. Not everyone starts from scratch buying into one system. So if it's the wrong section, please feel free to move it to a appropriate part of the forum. --- So, strictly speaking I'm not a beginner. But have a disarray of equipment systems. Have been buying them to try out which I like most. Sony (A700) due to starting out with Minolta long ago. Kit lenses 18-55 & 70-300, & hvl58 flash. Nikon (D2Xs, F5 and V1) due to using that system mostly and most "pro" like. 14, 24 & 50. 35-70 2.8. Sb-400 small flash. All heavy. Fuji (just a X-E1), bought a good kit as a present for a friend, ended up with a extra body, used with Nikon glass via adapter. Wonderful but oh so slow. But, what do I do now? I don't have any complete "big" system that would work all-around, only more specialized so to speak. By complete I mean including flash. And now that it's summer having a camera is nice. What would you recommend, and best way to keep costs down? I've come to 3 choices. Sony: Buy a Sigma 17-70 2.8-4 (cheap) or Sony 16-50 2.8 and then I have all round general kit. Nikon: Buy a SB-800/500 and a DX 35/FX 28. Not cheapest route but good quality and I know CLS well. Or 18- 70. However in terms of weight this is heavy Fuji: get the 16-50 and stick-to it. Maybe a flash later ($200 in EU). What do you think?

<p>@Lex Jenkins: I fully agree.<br> However, at the moment it seems that even thought the wifi integration is possible on Android and iPhone, it's nonexistent on Windows Phone (perhaps in anticipation of Windows 10), but also that so far there are few apps from the Tizen open API. <br> I would also like to have a possiblity to tranfer a certain "my own" style of photography in terms of contrast, filters, etc from the computer to the camera and use it's capacity to directly produce JPEG in really good quality that can be exported/uploaded online to dropbox/smugmug/amazon or a service/Place of my choice directly from either the camera virtually "tethered" to the service/cloud or via a tablet/smartphone.<br> The glass seems really good. However according to some reports the NX1 has some problems with focus tracking and rack focusing in continuous mode. But that seems to be at max fps, 15 fps. It might be so that a lower fps like 8-10 would nail a higher percentage of images. <br> I suspect that the Nikon 1 series are a bit better at that, but the NX1 would surely in when it comes to all around image quality.</p>

<p>@Wouter Wilemse<br> I understand how you mean, and partially agree with you. But I am not talking about developing pictures in the camera itselt using it's controls, but more kind of about the workflow and automatisation. If you know how to configure your camera to get the output you want later on screen, you could more or less match (if the cameras chip processor, menu and OS supports it) it to the camera.<br> If you shoot JPEG + RAW (or other "flat" format + RAW) you could perhaps use the Open Source API/Apps or so to get the JPEG output you want and then have the raws for later use. Today - no matter if one does like pure photography or want's instagram snapshots, photography is moving on, and people want both pictures fast and sometimes "instagrammed".<br> If the NX1 - or other cameras that have serious social media functions, can upload the jpegs from a shoot fast, and then you can add your developed RAWs later, people can get their images fast.<br> Most of what I do still gets on Facebook anyway today. And unfortunately, social media doesn't have support for JPEG XR (which I like), 16 bits image files or anything else besides jpegs. And since people view the images on a various sets of devices and screens, mostly using 8 bit sRGB is still safer.<br> For my part, I am seriously thinking about shooting analog parallell with digital.</p>

<p>Hi!<br> I recently went to take a look at the Samsung NX1 at a local store and felt very impressed by it. So much that I have got back to the store just to test it with a prime lens.<br> From some minutes fiddling and trying out:<br> NX1 + 16-50 f/2.0-2.8. Very fast, seems like a fast handling menu, several ways of doing stuff. Some lag on the sides in the EVF, but otherwise compared to everything else very responsive. Not a heavy camera, good grip, feel very good and balances the huge lens quite OK. The lens seems very fast, I'd probably say as fast as my Nikon V1 with the kit lens - which is good considering that the power requirement would be bigger for all that glass.<br> NX1 + 20 mm f/2.8. Medium speed in mixed indoor light, some hunting. However the camera felt rather discrete with that pancake lens compared to the 16-50 kit.<br> Also, the EVF and it's rubber dome is easy to use with glasses it seems - which is a big bonus.<br> Didn't try video.<br> It has been some time since I really thought about buying a new camera for real, and interestingly enough it's not any of the "big brands". As I understand, Samsung seems to have also rolled out quite a few firmware updates since the introduction of the NX1.<br> Anyone here who has as more extensive experience from using the NX1?<br> I admit the good kit-lenses are not cheap (especially if you consider the 16-50 and 50-150 mm). but at the same time with a open API, so long often updates and so perhaps one could get more done in the camera instead of spending time in front of the computer?</p>

<p>@Andy L<br> Well, I have used the 18-55 somewhat- It probably overall one of the best kit lenses I have used, very versatile. The XC are of course more "consumer grade" in feel, but that's OK. </p> <p>@Jochen Schrey. <br> Well I use the magnification, but I don't find it especially good, at least not for night photography. I would really appreciate a firmware update for the X-E1 where you could choose a contrast color for the "focus assist" <br> About h4K screens well that's a kind of a goal. Now that people are gettign the new 5K iMacs, 16Mpixel is just over their screen resolution and my older 12 Mpixels cameras are within those parameters. <br> Which flashgun did you buy? I discussed with a friend a couple of days ago if it was worth getting a big or small Fuji-flash. Strangely enough the big Fuji flash doesn't seem to be overly expensive. </p>

<p>Hi!<br> I have among other cameras a Fuji X-E1. While not sure it's worth upgrading to a X-E2 due to is being faster, since I use the X-E1 for more slow, deliberate photography (usually use a Nikon V1 with the kits or a Nikon D2Xs with some AF lenses - I know it's old but it's fast an very precise), I am thinking of buying the 16-50 mm lens to it and the 50-230 mm lens. <br> So my question: Anyone using a X-E1 with those due to them being light (for travel or just having everyday with you) and being quite content with performance/resolution etc? Or are they really not recommended? For all possible sorts of photography. <br> usually I use the X-E1 with adapter and a Nikon 24 f/2.8 AF-D but have thought of buying some russian Zeiss Jupiters or portraits and such. However MF lenses on a X-E1 are a bit tricky. </p>

<p>Hello! <br> Have 2 questions: <br> 1. Anyone using Capture One 6 or 7 or perhaps 8 with AMD HD5770 GPU and does it work? <br> 2. Anyone using Capture One (of the above versions) with Crossfire/SLI and does it work?</p>

<p>I changed from a nVidia 260 GTX to a newer AMD HD5870. And well the difference is quite big. Especially when using the sliders things go faster, but overall response is better. So there is a gain, but I suspect it will be dependent on the power of the GPU and the amount of VRAM. </p>