jim_appleyard

 Freestyle has a product similar HC-110.

LegacyPro L110 Liquid Film Developer - 1 Pint (Makes 2 Gallons) (freestylephoto.com)

I didn't shoot a ton with it.

 

I loved the look but hated how curly my negatives tended to be. I'd certainly shoot it again if it came back(I never tried it in 120, and all I have left now in 35mm and sheets is 50) and enjoy it, but would hope they could manage to make it not curl as much.

120 was beautiful if you could get past the light leaks around the paper backing. I always made sure I took two shots of everything and allowed for some cropping.

Do you mean dilution F? There are times and gamma values for B, D and F.

 

And for each, different EI values and times.

 

I have only tried one, but was reasonably happy with the results.

 

But then I like PanF+ and Panatomic-X, too.

Sorry, but I don't remember the dilution that Kodak recommended over the phone. I haven't shot Tech Pan in 25 years.

For sharper negatives with Pan F+, try developing in Rodinal (1 + 50 is good), sharper the either DD-X or D76. The disadvantage is it will show every skin imperfection. I use to think it would show wrinkles that will be there ten years form now <grin>.

 

One advantage of Tech Pan over most other films is the extended red response. It removes skin blemishes (at least on Caucasian skin); it is wonderful for taking pictures of people with acne.

Thanks, I'm already doing Pan-F in Rodinal 1+100.

Try here:

If you don't like her hair, there are other videos you can watch. ;)

You can use a graduated neutral density filter to darken a cloudy sky.

Tiffen Graduated Nd Filter | B&H Photo Video

Ilford SFX, 35mm Hoya R72 filter. Enough IR for me. Daylight loading and easy to process.

You're only going to get grad filters in resin or plastic. Glass ones just aren't made. So Cokin brand is as good as any.

 

When new, these filters are very good. You just have to be careful not to scratch them, since the resin material is quite soft and delicate. Do not use a microfibre cloth to clean them. Use lens tissues or eyewear wipes, and only then when it's essential to remove a smudge. Use a blower brush to get rid of loose dust.

Tiffen makes them.

I liked Efke 25, but the quality control was horrid. Light leaks with 120 and pinholes with 35 (water stop bath and alkaline fix). Pan-X was great, but I still have a 50m bulk roll in the freezer of APX 25. I think the Pan-X was just a bit less fussy to process. I shoot a lot of Pan-F now.

PX has moved over to FP-4.

Hey, there's still TX & HP-5 and if I really need speed, Delta 3200 in MF!

The site is still up, and fairly interesting: Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page

 

Not all of the links work, but it was an interesting read.

Thanks, I didn't look under "astronomy".

Joe . . . Luck has nothing to do with it . . . Meticulously clean and careful with all of my material.

Whatever works for you, but when you open a new squeegee out of the box, wet it with Photo-flo and it tears the emulsion off the film... I'll never use one again. But to each his own. I think it's an accident waiting to happen.

You'll get opinions from all over on this and the debate has been ongoing for decades. I agree with what Ben says. RC is the standard and it does process faster, is less expensive and will probably outlive us all.

Most of us will agree that FB has a certain look to it and some will say it has more "soul" and every photographer has some negatives that just seem to be matched to FB paper.

I'm happy that we have both.

- I think so. We don't call it dish detergent in the UK. Washing up liquid is what we call it. I buy about the cheapest brand I can find, so it's basically just surficants and water, with a touch of some thickening agent (glycerol?) and colouring. Whatever it is, it gets the job done with no hint of harm to the filter coatings.

 

I only do the 'wet clean' when a huff of breath and a lens tissue won't shift the marks or smudges. As I said though, the washing up liquid process removes even really stubborn grease spots, and leaves the filters looking like new. Any damage to the MC would quickly show up as bright or silvery patches, which it doesn't.

Thanks, I was curious. Whatever works!

Cleaning filters spotless is easy. Use the same method as for contact lenses. Blow off any dust with a rocket blower; apply a small quantity of washing up liquid to both surfaces; rub it all over the filter with thumb and finger; .

Joe, are you using dish detergent to clean your filters? If so, are you sure it's chemically ok with the multi coating of the filter?

Admittedly I haven't shot any film in a few years, but never warmed up to TMY. It has a certain signature tonal quality I can usually spot a mile away. Back when the earth was young and the T-grained films were introduced, Kodak put out a brochure with a lot of incredibly nice photos. They had tonal quality like crazy. Richness in the shadows and delicate not overblown highlights. Not all studio stuff either. I never got results like those, nor did anybody else I knew, even after a lot of fine tuning of exposure and development.

Same here. I went to trad grained films.