joseph_smith3

To add more info or confusion to this topic, here is a link to Brad Hill's workflow. He uses Capture One Pro. He says he used DXO PL Elite for Noise reduction and not PureRaw. I do not know how to do what he describes in the link in DXO PL Elite: http://www.naturalart.ca/artist/computers.html

Mike, as far as I know PureRaw and Photo Lab are separate products. Depending on your workflow, id you want Deep Prime XD and the other noise reduction options, you will need one or the other (and maybe both.) I use just DXO PL and not PureRaw so I am no as conversant as ho best to use PureRaw. If you want Deep Prime XD integrated in one software (my preference) you use DXO PL ver 6.4.0 (and some earlier versions too). I apply Deep Prime XD when I export a file (usually a Tiff) to NIK Collection, Adobe LR or PS or other program. Or just apply t when making a Jpeg within DXO-PL. You can use PureRaw as a plug in for Lightroom. This link explains more about PureRaw 2. https://lenscraft.co.uk/photography-blog/dxo-launches-pureraw-2/ Here is what Robin says about PureRaw3.

I do not have a single lens recommendation. For FX, I take a Nikon AF-S 24-85mm f3.5-4.5G and a Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f4 G lens (no longer made, will have to buy used.) This is my standard travel kit. Both are fairly light in weight and have small profiles.

DXO PhotoLab version 6.4.0 can now process all versions of Nikon Z9 RAW files including the High Efficiency version. If you already have DXO PL you can upgrade at no cost by downloading ver 6.4.0. I was notified of this when I opened DXO PL today. . DXO PureRAW3 can do the same. Not sure if this is a free upgrade or a purchase upgrade as I do not use this program.

Barry and others, I use NX2 for resizing images for printing too. And I think its repair tool, for cloning out or removing stuff works better than the equivalent tool in other software programs, including Nikon NX Studio.

My thoughts parallel Shun's and others: 1. When I had my D810 I did not experience any obvious ISO issues at high ISOs. It was a very capable camera for me. I often shoot nature work at ISOs up to and exceeding 20,000 and that includes images on the D810 at its max ISO of 12,800. 2. A used D850 would be a good upgrade for the reasons already posted by others. 3. If you were to jump into mirrorless, a Z9 might be overkill, but since it is the only Nikon mirrorless body I have ever used, it is an upgrade for sure. I use a lot of Nikon F mount lenses on my Z9 with the FTZ ii adapter, especially my Nikon 105mm f2.8 G and 200mm f4 AF-D and my Nikon 500mm f5.6 pf lens. I own just two Z mount lenses, the 24-120 f4 S and the 100-400mm f4.5-5.6

Barry, I still have Capture NX2 on my windows 10 computers. I last downloaded it in 2019. File size of the download is about 106,xxx KB. I suggest you try and find a friend that has a computer that is "old" enough to maybe have it and get a copy from him. It might work on your computer. My guess is that you still need the NX2 License number to get it to work after you reinstall it. On a windows pc it is in the Downloads file folder. I am not sure if Picture Controls are what Mike means by built in correction modules. I would download the NX Studio User Manual and check to see if it will help answer Mike's question. For NEF (RAW) files, I would start with Nef (Raw) Processing in the Manual and see what options they allow you to set. They might be limited to just basic things like Color Space. I believe Picture Controls can be set only for RAW files. Whether they can be applied as a batch to all files is something I am not sure of. There is a Picture Control Parameters setting you can click on. That may allow you to have the same set of Picture Controls applied to all RAW files in the file folder.

How do you set it to nothing? That is what I want to do when I use my 100-400mm S lens. My guess is that I set the lens control buttons from the camera. In my case that means the Z9. So I will go looking for Custom Control Assignment.

For my Z9, I got the 24-120 f4 S lens. I did not consider the 24-200 as I also bought the 100-400m S lens for my Z9. However, I have a friend who has been shooting Nikon mirrorless longer than I have (Z6 and Z7) and he has both the 24-120 and the 24-200mm lenses. He is not one to buy a lens to just have it around for occasional use. I do not know why he has both.

On my Z9, I shoot RAW. For birds that are "moving" (in flight or doing something at a nest or perch) I try and use 10 or 12 frames per second. I have found at slower fps, the membrane over the eye can ruin a shot even if the bird is perched and not moving. For hummingbirds, I prefer shutter speeds of 1/1000-1/1250 that shows some blurring of the wings but may freeze the wings in their drawn back position or full forward position.

This link might help you. http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf4/flash/index.htm

Mike, based upon my experience with my Z9, my answer is No. I have a CFx card is slot 1 and a XQD card in slot 2. They both can accept images.. I have slot 2 set to overflow so it only gets used when the card in slot 1 is full. The related issue is buffer cleanout speed : if both cards are used at the same time or if the write speeds on the cards are different. I plan on getting a second CFx card when I can find some spare $$.

I did some additional testing yesterday with my Z9. The three Dynamic Area choices are all in red. For the two Wide area--Large and Small--the frame box is in a very thin red box. Seeing it to make sure it is in the right portion of the frame is difficult. In 3D and Auto Area, the camera does most of the work and the eye detection box is not red, and is easy to see.

There is one feature on my Z9 that I really need, and many of you may need it too. In most if not all of the AF area modes the focus area box is outlined in a thin red line. I have difficulty seeing the red box especially if the background has mixed colors or shapes and/or is mostly green. The cause of this is that I am color blind--not completely colorblind, but partially color blind. I am red green and blue grey color blind if I remember the diagnosis I got when I went into the US Army. And I am not alone--about 8% of men have this and about 0.5 % of women have it too. (Prior to that test, I was unaware that I had any color vision issues.) Solution--Give me a choice of colors for the focus area box line. Allow me to set black as the block color instead of just red. Black is the color used in the D500 and D850. I have no issues seeing any of the focus shapes in the different AF area modes with these two Nikon bodies. This may be an issue with all Nikon mirrorless cameras. Any advice on how to submit this request to Nikon? More info at these links: https://www.nei.nih.gov/learn-about-eye-health/eye-conditions-and-diseases/color-blindness/causes-color-blindness#:~:text=Since%20it's%20passed%20down%20on,have%20red%2Dgreen%20color%20blindness. https://www.colourblindawareness.org/colour-blindness/types-of-colour-blindness/#:~:text=People%20with%20protanopia%20are%20unable,blues%20and%20yellows%20stand%20out.

I love Steve perry's books and videos. Get them if you can. Here are two links that might help you: https://photographylife.com/recommended-nikon-z7-settings https://photographylife.com/recommended-nikon-z7-ii-settings I use AF-C, Release, Back Button Focusing, Matrix metering, Auto ISO, with a minimum shutter speed specified, usually 1/1000 or higher for birds. Since I do not own a Z 7 or Z 7ii, I would use Dynamic Area on a Z7 and on a Z7 ii, Auto are AF with animal detection and maybe Dynamic Area too. Look at settings for U3 in the links. Then customize them for what works best for you. I do a lot of wildlife/birds with my Z9, D500 and D850. The key is to make sure the focus square is on the subject or the subject's eye. Even on my Z9, I use Dynamic Area and not the fancier AF modes. In Auto area AF, focus usually shifts to the closest subject. Sometimes this is great and sometimes it is not what you want. You must experiment and see what happens with different settings.

The Nikon SB500 is compatible with the Z5. See page 640 of the Nikon Z5 reference manual for a list of compatible flashes with a table of supported features. I use the Nikon SB5000 on my Z9 an sometimes the SB 800. The table does show that the SB 500 is limited in features compared to other flashes listed like the SB5000.

I updated my firmware to 3.01 this afternoon. I already had 3.0 on my Z9. It took a "long" time to load. I did not time it, but maybe 5+ minutes. I will try and try out the AF settings tomorrow before the weather gets bad.

I just checked my serial number. Fortunately, my Z9 is unaffected. My serial number is a lower number than the beginning number of the range. I bought mine in the US in late April 2022.

I have this same lens with the same problem. The cause is sticky diaphram blades due to too much oil. I am not sure the cost of fixing the problem is worth it given the age of my lens. It just sits on a shelf unused.

IMO the minimum specs recommended by the software providers are way to low. Their minimums and not high enough for my desires. I use windows laptops and desktops. For RAM, 32 GB to 64 GB. The graphics card/GPU minimum depends on what software you run now and plan to run. AI intensive programs require expensive graphics cards unless you plan to wait for minutes while a single image is processed.

The current version of Nikon NX Studio should be able to read a D80 RAW or jpeg or tiff file. Just download it and its manual from Nikonusa dowload enter. In the manual for NX studio Printing is explained starting on page 213-214. If you have saved to your computer previous versions of Nikon's free RAW processor, Nikon Capture NX-D or Capture NX2 these programs can be used to prepare D80 files for printing.

I just viewed Steve Perry's video on this lens. If I were a Pro I would be ordering one. As a hobbyist, the price is pretty steep for me. I think Nikon made a good decision to add the built in 1.4x tc.

I just downloaded it and will do the update later today. Make sure you download revised guides too like the one on the firmware and the Reference Guide for the Z9.

I have used 1.4x and 2x tcs on Nikon DSLRs with tele lenses from 300mm to 500mm. On my Z9 I have used the Z mount 1.4x tc with the Nikon 100-400mm S lens, a Zmount lens. On DSLRs, using a 2x adds more extension than a 1.4x tc so your shooting technique needs to be very good, That means using a tripod if possible and making sure your focusing is as good as possible. And when you use any tc your widest f stop is reduced and image quality may be compromised too. For me, I try and limit the tc to just a 1.4x and/or select a smaller image area if my full frame camera sensor allows this. The best answer is "it depends" on many factors.

For hand holding, I also recommend the Nikon 70-200mm f4 and the Nikon 85mm f1.8. I do a lot of pet portraits with these lenses on my D800 and D850. On my Nikon bodies they both seem to focus at the same rate. For tripod use, I use my Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 or my Nikon 200mm f4 macro lens as both have tripod collar feet that makes switching from horizontal to vertical very easy.