tudor_apmadoc

was it sold by Amazon or was it sold by an Amazon reseller. There have been cases where counterfeit items hit the

market - flashes, batteries, lenses, etc.

Another clue might be in the price - was it around the $135 or was it way cheaper?

What quality are you saving the jpegs at? It's been awhile, but I seem to remember that the lower quality (50) would

over saturate the colors Try 80-90

<p>First, the caveats. I'm partially color blind - called a medium red-green color blindness. As such, I have to make sure everything is calibrated. I have an Eizo monitor that calibrates itself. I have an HP Z3200 printer with a built in photo spectrometer to calibrate the printer to the specific paper I'm using</p>

<p>To take it to the next step, I started using the xrite photo passport - both to calibrate the sensor and as a gray card</p>

<p>Even with my level of colorblindness I've been able to detect subtle changes once calibrated. I've compared some sample's taken with 5DM2, 5DM3, 5DSR, 5DM4, and the GX9. The calibration charts pre calibration do have subtle differences, the calibration charts post calibration do indeed match. Again I'm partially colorblind, so the differences might be might higher than I'm able to detect.</p>

<p>I concur with Robin, years ago I used 3rd party inks (ones with good reviews) in my HP Z3200. Long story short, I sold some prints to a customer - a year later they had faded badly.</p>

<p>Even worse - the cheap ink manged to clog the print heads to the point I had to replace them, but not before I paid for an expensive repair bill to have the cheap ink flushed out of the supply lines. </p>

<p>I saved about $400 on the ink, the repairs were $350, replaced a dozen prints at a cost of $200 (including ink and paper). All and all, not pleasant and would never use 3rd party inks again</p>

<p>Hahnemule purchased Harmon sometime ago and has 60" 300gsm smooth cotton paper<br>

http://harman.hahnemuehle.com/site/en/828/matt-cotton-smooth.html</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The 5DM4 has in camera corrections for lenses</p>

<ul>

<li>Peripheral illum corr</li>

<li>Distortion Correction</li>

<li>Digital Lens Optimizer</li>

<li>Chromatic Aberr corr</li>

<li>Diffraction Correction</li>

</ul>

<p>Lightroom has some built in corrections for lenses. <br>

Questions</p>

<ol>

<li>How do the two approaches differ</li>

<li>Which of the above overlap what Lightroom does?</li>

<li>If I turn on any of the above, is that info carried in the EXIF info?</li>

<li>Does Lightroom recognize any of the above were turned on, if not, does it end up over compensating?</li>

</ol>

<p> </p>

<p>I had a friend who stored images on external hard drives with no backup. One of the drives died and they lost an entire years worth of photos. I started to backup, call it crazy, overkill, whatever.......</p>

<p>I keep multiple copies</p>

<ul>

<li>Primary storage - a RAID 6 array</li>

<li>Each night changes are copied from the primary storage to a 2nd RAID 6 array</li>

<li>I backup the primary copy to Crashplan - even though I have 2Mb upload speed, It's still way behind. I've been shooting with a 5DSR, raw. I shoot a lot of pics, so, it's a LOT of data to move</li>

<li>2-3 times a year, I'll copy files to an external drive and store it at one of my kids house who lives 10 miles away</li>

</ul>

<p>Expensive? Yes, but then, what's the cost if you lose a year, or a decades worth of pics?</p>

<p>Just an update - Detroit is making significant strides in a come back, one of the things they are doing is getting VERY tough on owners of vacant buildings - get the building secured, submit plans for rehab, etc. Great for the city, but it's making it tougher to find buildings to shoot</p>

<p> </p>

I am partially color blind, so I need to keep things calibrated to keep things accurate. I purchased an Eizo monitor with a

built in calibrator that runs automatically every 30 days.

My printer is an HP Z3200ps with a built in photo spectrometer, it calibrates the paper and stores the calibration internally.

It reminds me to recalibrate the paper every 6 months or so, though I also recalibrate after changing print heads / ink

cartridges

I make sure I use the Photoshop option to have the printer manage colors.

I've been doing this process since 2009, recently reprinted a photo that I had printed in 2011. I had a friend who's has an

amazing eye for color accuracy and he couldn't see any difference, swore I must have run a batch of 2 copies at the

same time

<p>There are 3 NIK modules that are my constant tools</p>

<ul>

<li>HDR Pro - it's one of the very best in terms of ghost eliminations and allows me to produce very natural HDR images</li>

<li>Silver Efex - it's the best B&W conversion tool I've every used</li>

<li>Sharpener - The last step in my workflow before printing - takes much of the guess work out of things</li>

</ul>

<p>Mind you, I bought them back about 10 years ago before Google bought them out, I think the package cost about $249. It's free now - to me it's a simple no brainer. REALLY great tools at zero cost. </p>

<p>Hint - watch video tutorials on how to use it, I learned a lot from them on how to get the most out of the tools</p>

<p>I will track down the name of the guide company we used, the key is to make sure you ask for a photo tour, they will give you someone who knows the best photo spots, etc. </p>

<p>Depending on the clouds, weather, you can get some AMAZING shots from the rim. </p>

<p>Here's some that I took : <a href="

<p>Here's my take. Shooting real estate often means taking pics in tight spaces. The problem is that a cropped sensor creates a tele effect with your lens. A 1.6 crop sensor means that a 24mm lens becomes a 38mm lens. This has an effect on what you can capture.</p>

<p>I shoot a Canon 5DS R, shoot a lot of urban exploration pics in abandoned office buildings, schools, etc. The difference between what you can capture with a cropped vs. full frame sensor is dramatic.</p>

<p>I would recommend the full frame sensor for that alone.</p>

You have to take the season into account. It looks like later fall, early early spring, leaves are off the trees, the grass is

dormant. The McDonald's sign, and the partial view of the blue sign look fine.

One issue is they likely scanned as .jpg files, that instantly limits you to 8 bits. But the question is at what quality. When

you create a jpg file you have a choice what quality, some apps go from 1-10, others have different scales

Make sure you scan as grayscale. If you scanned as RGB, then convert to grayscale.

When you go to print, make sure the print properties is set up to have printer in black and white mode

If after all that, you are still getting a blue tint, I would think your printer is at fault and needs to be serviced

Here's my strategy.

My primary photo storage is a Synology NAS with a 10Gb card. The storage is RAID 6.

Each night I use Smart Sync Pro to copy from the Primary storage to another RAID 6 device. I have Smart Sync Pro

configured to keep 5 previous versions

I use Crash Plan to store photos in the cloud

Every six months I archive the previous 6 months of photos onto external disks and store them at my kids house

A bit much perhaps, but I lost about 2 months worth of photos, a professional friend of mind lost 12 months of photos.

Couple of things.

1. I use an xrite color passport to calibrate each camera I have. It sets up a custom profile that you can automatically

apply in Lightroom. This will ensure you get the same results between make / model cameras, even corrects for the

differences in sensors between different same model cameras

2. If you are going to shoot in that same gym, shoot a gray card, then you can do a blanket correction across all the pics

you take in there

i've been running a RAID 5 array for over 15 years, drives have died along the way, but never had an outage. I have well

over 150,000 pics. Every night I copy new / changed files to a second array, why? Just in case I do a delete of the

wrong file or directory. In addition at the end of every year I copy that years pics to a hard drive and store them at one of

the kids place.

Interesting. If you look at the amounts of heavy dodging and burning that Ansel Adams did to get his stunning images.

Under a very strict interpretation, are his prints doctored?

<p>I've been to both as well, I've been to NZ about 7 times for vacation, only did Rotorua once. My recommendation is to get to the South Island, rent a car and drive the circumference. </p>

<p>I wouldn't recommend a bus, you'll find yourself wishing the bus would stop so you can take pics about every 15 min.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Here's my strategy.</p>

<ol>

<li>Check with your own auto insurance company - many policies cover you when you are driving a rental. Make sure that coverage applies if you are renting overseas</li>

<li>I typically rent away from the airport. Example - Las Vegas Airport taxes can easily add 20% on to your rental car charges. Take a cab to the nearest hotel with the same rental companie's counter and you'll save both the 20% plus often get a cheaper rate</li>

<li>Warning - if you don't get the insurance, not only are you on the hook for some / all of the repair costs, but often you get socked for a "loss of use" for the rental car damaged. </li>

<li>I never get the personal items insurance, etc.</li>

</ol>

<p>it sounds like you have either opened up an empty database, or you have a corrupted database.<br>

Look for any files with an extension .lrcat and check the length and modified data</p>

<p>Do you do backups? </p>

<p> </p>

I use a software called Downloader Pro, it allows me to insert all my iptc info as I download the pics from the memory

cards. I can put in author, keywords, etc. I include my name as keywords. It also allows me to set the copyright info as

well