fotograaf1957

Looks like the colors are oversaturated. Check the camera settings to see if the color is set to normal, if it's not, change the setting to normal. Also, make sure your monitor is calibrated correctly.

Are you viewing the pictures at full size or reduced to fit your monitor? I know what this person is talking about, I photograph a lot of car shows and I see it in the lines and angles on the cars sometimes. Either the picture is viewed at the wrong size or it's being saved at the wrong size but instead of the lines being straight _______ the end up looking somewhat like this ////////. It's usually a sizing problem for the image, either during viewing or when it's being saved. At least this has been my experience.

If you still didn't get the manual, I too can email it to you.

You have to change the connection type in the setup menu, screen 3/4. Make sure it's set for PC, not Picture Bridge or Select on Connection. Have you tried this?

In my opinion, comparing JPG noise to film grain is difficult since they are very different.

 

When film gain becomes enlarged to the point that it's visible, it still managed to maintain the correct color or grey scale for it's location on the piece of film. A blue sky will still look blue. On the other hand, JPEG noise will disrupt the color of the blue sky with green and red splotches or spots. Very annoying.

 

That's why I shoot RAW only. JPEG noise makes me insane.

Looks like some type of lens flare or other internal reflection.

Maybe the memory cards needs a good clean formatting.

I found this in the Moscow Times

 

Japan Investigates Espionage at Nikon

 

TOKYO -- Tokyo police on Thursday asked prosecutors to investigate a former

employee of Nikon on suspicion of stealing a high-tech device from the

electronics company and giving it to a former Russian trade official.

 

The Tokyo Metropolitan Police filed papers with the public prosecutors office

against the Nikon employee and a former member of Russia's Trade Representation

office in Tokyo, said a police spokesman who spoke on condition of anonymity,

citing protocol.

 

The men, whose names were not disclosed, conspired in the theft of the device,

called a variable optical attenuator, the police spokesman said.

 

The device, which is still in the development stage, is used to help stabilize

optical transmissions in long-distance fiber optic communications, Nikon

spokeswoman Sayaka Suzuki said. The former employee is believed to have stolen

the device while he worked at Nikon in February last year, and given it to the

Russian trade official, Suzuki said.

 

Police believe the two men met "dozens of times," and that the Russian official

paid the Nikon employee an undisclosed amount for acquiring the device, Kyodo

News agency said.

 

Thursday's police action came after Nikon, the Tokyo-based maker of cameras and

precision instruments, filed a complaint with police against the employee on

July 7, Suzuki said. She said the employee had left the company for "personal

reasons" last March.

 

 

Police suspect the Russian official, who has already left Japan, may have

thought about converting the civilian-use device into a defense technology,

Kyodo News agency said.

 

An official at the Russian Trade Representation office refused to comment on the

case.

 

Nikon said in a statement that it would fully cooperate with a police

investigation, while stepping up its in-house management of products and

equipment. Suzuki said the company could not disclose how the device, if fully

developed, would be used.

 

It was the sixth case since 1989 that Japanese police have opened into suspected

espionage involving members of the Russian trade office.

 

Last October, police accused a member of the trade office of buying company

secrets from a worker at a subsidiary of Japanese electronics maker Toshiba. The

35-year-old Russian, who arrived in Japan in October 2003 and left in June last

year, is thought to have links with Russia's foreign intelligence service, Kyodo

News reported in October.

 

The 30-year-old Japanese man worked for Toshiba Discrete Semiconductor

Technology Corp., and was suspected of selling secrets to the Russian nine times

from September 2004 to May 2005 for a total of 1 million yen ($8,700), police said.

 

Kyodo said the man sold secrets related to a type of semiconductor technology

that could be used in radars of military submarines, fighter aircraft or missile

guidance systems. Toshiba, however, said the leaked information was for

semiconductors used in digital cameras, mobile phones and electric cookers and

had no conceivable military applications.

http://www.ezcube.com

http://www.lc-tech.com/software/rprowindetail.html

 

Better Link

SanDisk has a program you can buy at their website (not too expensive) that will usually get them back.

 

http://www.sandisk.com/Products/Catalog(1186)-RescuePro.aspx

"You should use an ISO value that will allow an optimum shutter speed and aperture ("optimum" depends on the circumstances). I find that ISO 400 is a good compromise for hand-held and flash pictures, even in full daylight. Indoors, I might bump the ISO to 1600 or higher, at the expense of more noise in the image."

 

Edward, as a matter of information, the highest ISO on the Panasonic FZ-30 is 400. At 400, the FZ-30 will produce a lot of noise in low light situations. I have found that by shooting in RAW, it solves this RBG noise problem but the images still look very grainy. It's the real and only downside of this camera IMHO. The FZ-30 has a built in standard hot shoe which when mated with the Panasonic external flash will allow the camera and flash to "talk to each other". Even the built in flash has an amazing amount of "punch", especially if you adjust the flash exposure manually though the camera, but there's no ISO 1600 on the FZ-30.

When I purchased my Pansonic/Lumix FZ-30 camera, which sports a lovely Leica lens, I immediately purchased a Tiffen Standard Hot Mirror Filter to place on the lens since I discovered that the sensor of this camera was very "hot" to Infrared radiation and I would see lots of annoying "purple fringe" in my high contrast images.

 

Well, I managed to stick my fat thumb on that filter and used the Eclipse solution with the Pec Pads to clean it up. I'm happy to say that there was NO color transfer from the filter to the Pec Pads. Maybe everyone having color bleed problems with their Hoya filters should try Tiffen instead? ;)

Put the camera in "P", program mode, switch the ISO to 80 or 100 and switch the file format to RAW. (Photoshop has a free RAW plugin that will read the RAW file format and also allow you some basic adjustments to the files.)

 

Let us know the results.

It's made in Japan, it's cheaper. However you want to define "cheaper" is up to you.

Perhaps because Sony followed the same principal as Panasonic or vice versa?

 

Panasonic uses a Leica lens on their digital cameras however, a little investigative work turns up that it's really not a Leica BUILT lens, it's not made in Germany of German glass and german components, instead, the lens is made in Japan of Japanese glass and components but it meets Leica specifications for the design of and materials used in the lens. If the lens meets Leica specifications, it can wear the Leica badge. Same with Sony and Carl Zeiss, its lens is probably built in Japan to Zeiss specs and earns the badge of Zeiss IF it can meet the specifications Zeiss has laid out for that lens.

The panasonic Lumix FZ-30 will get you close for macro, within 1 inch of the subject. It's got the Leica lens too, excellent lens, very sharp. There's a bit of noise in the sensor especially at high ISO and low light but the noise can be dealt with.

You mean like the Panasonic FZ-30? ;-)

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/p255/p255.jhtml

 

Hopefully, that link for Technical Pan at Kodak will work.

Has anyone successfully used a macro ring flash for the Panasonic

FZ-30 camera and if so, which make and model did you use and how did

the results fair?

I'm interested in photgraphing arc welding. I know about the safety

of the photographer during the session as well as protecting the

camera from the welding itself but what about the CCD sensor. I have

read that the arc can actually cause dead pixels to appear in the

sensor. I have the FZ-30 and no dead or hot pixels and I don't want

to end up with any dead or hot pixels.

 

Any advice?

I have the FZ30 and I think it's a great camera. As for the noise, shoot in RAW mode and the noise won't be an issue. Also, get yourself a Tiffen Standard Hot Mirror filter ($65 at B&H and Adorama for 55mm filter size). Not only does it really help with the purple fringe that's found in some images, it also helps to reduce any noise you may get as well.

 

The camera takes great pics, very sharp images for the lens (35mm to 420mm), and I think it's got great bang for the $$$.

It's much more satisfying to process your own negatives and you can actually do some pretty amazing things once you get down to a science, the relationship between chemicals, temperature and time.

They're not cracks. The size of the gain can be controlled during processing based on the temperature of the chemicals as well as the wash process. Higher temperatures yield larger grain.

Possibly, it was processed at the wrong temperature.