Jump to content

manolis1

Members
  • Posts

    880
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by manolis1

  1. Adam,

     

    Go back to the posted link you mention and click on items include. You will see that the whole packet includes the reversible female stud you need for your tripod. You can see all the included items of the swivel bracket at Richard's posted link.

    Btw, I have two of them and I use them all the time with my light stands and my tripod.

  2. Don,

     

    When we talk about flash photography we know that SPEED (S) controls the ambient light (interior light of the church) that is going to hit the film and APERTURE (A) controls the flash light (Main light) that is going to hit the film according to the distance between camera and subject. You used 200 ISO film (very slow for indoor wedding photography), you used Program (P), which means, you let your camera be in control instead of you.

    Next time use faster film (at least 400 ISO), use Manual (M) instead of Program (P) on your camera, which allow you (a) to use slower speeds (slower than 1/60), therefore, more ambient light is going to be captured in your film and (b) to use the right aperture according to the distance between your camera and your subject (you get your aperture-distance information from the LCD of your SB-25).

    If the background is very dark (enough darker than the foreground) do not use the TTL 3DMM,use the normal TTL, otherwise you will end with overexposed foreground and so so exposed background. That is a common problem when you include a lot of the background in your photos.

     

    "The photos taken outside on a very bright day all turned out perfect" because...

     

    You used a reasonable slow film. The flash was on 3DMM (the best of the best for outdoor flash photography), your camera was on P (I bet you, your camera selected a high speed ... 1/125 or higher) had an easy job to do because it was outside, the ambient light (sun light), which was the Main light, was very powerful (as you said) and the SB-25 worked perfectly as Fill-Flash.

  3. I bought my F100 & SB-28 at the same time, so it's the only flash I have been using with my F100. By my own experience (about its performance), I can guarantee you that SB-28 is the Right "Companion" for your F100.

    Unfortunately, there are only used units in the market right now, which make a Buy like that very risky, as you don't know how the former owner was treating it.

  4. "I know I?m not supposed to use a shutter speed faster then the sync of 1/60?"

     

    That's the number one rule you have to remember when you use your Pentax K1000 with the flash.

     

    "?But it's outside and being mid-summer, my 400iso film is happy at 3pm in the afternoon with 1/500th at f11?"

     

    IMO, wrong film (speed) at wrong time (3pm). You say that your camera meter gives you 1/500 at f/11 during that time (3pm), which means if you want to use your flash you have to use 1/60(the highest speed you can use with your flash) at f/32 because 1/500 at f/11 = 1/250 at f/16 = 1/125 at f/22 = 1/60 at f/32.

    If you use 100 ISO film (IMO, that's the right film speed for the period you want to shoot), you are going to have 1/60 at f/16 because the ISO 100 film is 2 stops slower than ISO 400 film, which means for ISO 400 you get 1/500 at f/11(=1/60 at f/32) therefore for ISO 200 film you?ll get 1/500 at f/8 (=1/60 at f/22) and for ISO 100 film you?ll get 1/500 at f/5.6 (= 1/60 at f/16).

     

    "?I want to experiment using a fill-in flash on a totally manual setup?"

     

    First of all you'll need a flash meter ($150 and up). Second you have to buy the Vivitar VP-1 Varipower Module ($30) for precisely manual power flash adjustments.

    If you don't want to spend that extra amount of money for the above equipments, you have to use your flash in Auto Mode.

     

    If you want to use your flash for fill-flash, the flash power supposes to be less (at least 1 stop) than the flash power (light power) of the main light (i.e. Sun light or Flash light).

    If you use ISO 100 film, follow ELIOT'S advise, " Your Vivitar 283 should be set to the blue setting (f8). This will give you fill light which is 2 stops under the sunlight".

    Therefore, you are going to have, Camera set up: S=1/60 and aperture f/16 and your Vivitar flash, as Eliot said, BLUE (f/8).

  5. Dave,

     

    First of all you are very welcome.

     

    Second, I want to tell you that I carry and use the Sanpak 383 + Wein Peanut optical slave + Fujifilm finepix 2650 (Digital P&S camera) + Bracket ALL THE TIME having full success. Before the Sunpak 383 I was using the Sanpak 144 (smaller and lighter unit) with the above combination (both flashes use the same exactly PC cord).

    The last thing I want to tell you is that I secure the PC+Slave on a bracket or on a stand using any kind of adhesive tape.

  6. Dave,

     

    You can use that slave on Sunpak 383 using the PC cord that comes with the flash.

    You are going to connect the slave to the one end of the PC cord and the other end of the PC cord to the Flash. BTW, I have all these equipments you name here and I enjoy using them daily.

  7. I bought that lens used for $150.00.

    The lens is sharp from 70mm to 150mm. At the zoom end (200mm) the photos you get are soft. Lens construction is Great (full metal). Auto focus is not very fast (it?s ok for me) even on my F 100, which has extremely fast auto focus with my prime lenses and the 28-105 AFD.

  8. The quality of both units are the same.If it's your first vivitar flash I'd recommend you the 285.

    the 285 has zoom head that covers an angle from 28mm(with the use of the diffuser that comes with the flash)to 105mm.The 283 covers only 35mm.If you want the 283 to cover a wider angle you have to pay extra money for Fa-1 adopter($12.95) plus $22.00 for the flash lens kit.The 285 has manual variable power control, the 283 hasn't( you have to pay extra money ($29.95) if you want to have it (Optional VP-1).

    I have measured the flash power of both units with a flash meter (at 35mm angle coverege)and I got the same Guide number(from both of them).

  9. "...isn't there any ISO400 film that could be used when Reala is not fast enough, maintaining the small grain and low contrast?"

     

     

    Yes, there is and it's PORTRA 400UC.

    Trust the people who recommend you that film and you're not gonna be disappointed.

    Take the film to a KODAK photo Lab and ask them to print your photos on Matte(my recommendation) Royal Gold Paper. I bet you, you're gonna love them.

     

    "And how about a polarizer filter?"

     

    It's a great idea (if it's sunny day) but don't forget that you are gonna lose from 1 1/2 to 2 stop if you use it' depends on the quality of the polarizer filer you have.

×
×
  • Create New...