john_perkinson
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Posts posted by john_perkinson
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<p>Hi Frank,</p>
<p>M6 TTL and VC 35mm Nokton f/1.2 (not certain what aperture on this photo...probably wide open or near it).</p>
<p>FP4+ rated at 80 and developed in Rodinal 1:100 for ~20min.</p>
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<p>Eric - Yes film...but not 3200. It was HP5 rated at 1600 souped in Clayton F76+ (1:12) at 80F for 12 minutes, and then I let it stand in Rodinal (1:75) for a few minutes at about 80F.</p>
<p>I was just playing around to see what kind of weird contrast and grain I could muster up. It reminds me of DDX grain on steroids...</p>
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<p>Phillip,</p>
<p>I use RTP for some of my night photography - including street scenes. It's an excellent film, but it's very dense (like Velvia) and very hard to scan properly.</p>
<p>The slides are incredible on a light table, but if I want to show them big I'll probably have to get optical prints done.</p>
<p>For this reason the majority of my casual night photography is done with b&w film or with a digital sensor.</p>
<p>I've shot some night stuff with Provia, but the colors can be unpredictable at times. Provia is much easier to scan however. I've been wanting to try Sensia at night, and see if it has the same unpredictable color weirdness.</p>
<p>Best thing to do is try a few different rolls, and see what you think...</p>
<p>John P.<br>www.orbit1.com</p>
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<p>Hi Scott,</p>
<p>I'd use either Ilford PanF+ or Efke 25 for very fine grain 35mm portraiture. I develop both of those in Rodinal 1:100. You'll have to set your own times and temp, but my times often run around 30 minutes at 70F. Also FP4 and Acros can be very nice.</p>
<p>PanF+ is my favorite slow film - and with diluted Rodinal gives it great tonality, but I have to admit I rarely shoot it in 35mm (mostly 120).</p>
<p>John P.<br>www.orbit1.com</p>
<p></p>
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<p>Geoffrey,</p>
<p>I'm not a food photog guy, so take this how you want...</p>
<p>I think you'd be better off shooting the fritters at a diagonal and a slightly higher angle and get selective focus on the front fritter. You also need more light from behind (higher key in back) and more contrast. Your lighting looks a bit flat here. It might help to use a different color underneath the food - something that's complimentary. You might even try stacking the fritters on a plate with garnish or something...</p>
<p>The lighting on the pasta is better, but the composition is boring. You need more slide and perhaps even a stronger crop (get closer maybe). Also, it would be nice to pick up some of the wood on the table, and maybe something else like a napkin/fork to pull it together.</p>
<p>Again, just my opinion... I'm sure a designer will have superior advice.</p>
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<p>Too much light IMO...</p>
<p>Are you shooting on the side of the house *with* the sun or away. If you're shooting during a sunny day - you may need more diffusion. Typically I only do this on cloudy or partly cloudy days...</p>
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Micro DSLR
in Pentax
I would love to have something like this that took Leica M glass.
Something like a digital Leitz CL...
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Hi Natasha,
Good choice IMO..!
This is actually my main slide film of choice for night photography (mostly in 120 format). It's excellent, but rather slow. However, I love the blue tones it gives under the moon. Most of my exposures at f5.6 and f8 are in the 1 hour plus range out in the country, but much shorter (1-3 minutes) at f8-f11 in urban environments...
Another caveat is that it can be difficult to scan with consumer scanners because it's very dense (similar to RVP).
I have some examples of its use on my site in the archives.
John P.
www.orbit1.com
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I agree with Ellis it might be an issue with the holder. One way to be sure is to burn another precious polaroid and see for yourself as you pull the paper sleeve up.
Other than that it could be your lens or shutter. Have you ever exposed normal film with your camera, or are these your first shots?
Make sure your using your shutter/lens properly...
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<P>Congrats! Looks like a really fun camera for landscapes...</P>
<P>What kind of screen is on that thing?</P>
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<p>I have very good luck with my medium format scans and my 3170. I think it's a great scanner for the money. It takes a little bit of practice, but the Epson scan software seems pretty good to me...</p>
<p>Here is a scan from last night...</p>
<br>
<br>
<img src="http://www.orbit1.com/images/photos/daily/{8966fd94-01c6-4048-b153-0c37287042bf}.jpg">
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<p>Thank you again Jeff...</p>
<p>I've <i>found</i> another Rolleicord on eBay very cheap, and I'll use it as a backup while the other is being fixed (if it's working fine).</p>
<p>I love these cameras...</p>
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<p>Thank's a ton for the link Mike!</p>
<p>Jeffrey, I'll definitely consider using Paul Ebel since he's relatively close (I'm in Wisconsin). How fast was the turn around? Cost?</p>
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<p>I just acquired a nice Rolleicord IV last week. I love the thing,
and I've put 6 rolls each of the following films (TMAX 100, HP5, and
PanF 50).</p>
<p>Here's my problem:</p>
<p>When I ran the Ilford films, the film winder locked up usually
around exposure 4 or 5. Sometimes covering the lens and actuating
the shutter again would *unlock* the film advance. If that didn't
work, I had to go somewhere dark and open it up and guess the wind
on the remaining exposures.</p>
<p>Out of the 6 TMAX rolls, only 1 roll stopped at exposure 10.</p>
<p>I know the TMAX media is thicker than the Ilford's. I suppose
that's making a lot of difference. I also know that this problem
probably has something to do with the shutter not interacting
correctly with the film advance. Any ideas or advice?</p>
<p>This camera will probably need a CLA. Any good places to send it
in the US?</p>
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Thank you all for the kind words. I need encouragement! Especially since I'm starting the printing today...
I'll continue to share results. Good and bad...
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<p>I've been lurking here reading a bit for a few weeks. I finally
found a used dark room setup last week with an enlarger for $200.
Last night I bought some D76 and some rapid fixer and went to
work.</p>
<p>My first roll was some out of date TMAX 400. I popped it in my
old Canon FTb and shot some quick snapshot portraits of my
daughter's using a flashlight as my light source. </p>
<p>I screwed up some of the negatives from the roll, but I had a
good time. Below is one of the results. I've got some fresh HP5 I'm
going to try out tonight. Thanks for all the good info here...</p>
<img src="http://www.orbit1.com/images/photos/daily/{f826bbe6-2bac-
4a2e-8fbe-a0ec7a73e7f3}.jpg">
W/NW Portraits
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted