harleyman7

Winston Link will certainly be missed. He probably would have been

just another unkown photographer if not for his passion to document

the last days of steam on the Norfork & Western railroad. His

photographs of trains will always be an inspiration to me.

If your're determined to tray develop,the Phil Bard slosh tray is the

way to go. I use one for HP5+ & PMK Pyro...very consistant and no

scratches. They're cheap too!

Sal, look here: http://www.jobo-usa.com/jq/jq9502.htm

Agree with Dave. The people that are screaming the end of B&W are the

same bunch that were screaming the world was going to end Jan. 1,

2000.

I don't know about wooden holders, but on my plastic ones I use black

electrical tape. Load them with 4x5 print paper...lay then out in the

sun awhile, then develope...if the paper is still white..no leaks!

I didn't know you could boost shadow detail with development. I

always thought shadow detail was determined by exposure.

I built the Phil Bard tray described in detail on his web site. These

things really work great. I develop HP5+ with PMK and the negatives

are always consistant...streak free...scratch free! I would recommend

these to anyone who tray develops 4x5.

Look in the yellow pages under machine shops and call a few and see

what they charge....I'm sure it would be under $50.00.

Thanks everyone for your responses. One lens is a Schneider 210

Symmar-s which has only a very small spot. THe other lens is a

Fujinon 90mm f/8. The Fuji has about 9 or 10 small spots. I'm not a

pro and I only shoot black & white. I haven't noticed any difference

in the quality of prints since the spots appeared. I was just mainly

concerned about what causes them.

I have two lenses that have small shinny specks under the front glass. It looks like the paint just flakes off in random spots. I realize this doesn't affect picture quality, but is it a common occurence with LF lenses?

www.photocritique.net...www.shuttercity.com...www.photoblink.com

Another vote for FP4+ & FP5+ in PMK Pyro.

There is a review of the Bender kits on this forum. Scroll on down

from the questions & answers to equipment reviews...cameras...index

of camera reviews...Bender.

Martin, take a spot reading of the darkest area that you still want

to show detail and place that on zone 3. I would do a film test to

find the true iso and development time for whatever film you use.

Bruce Barnbaum has some interesting HC110 dilutions and agitation

methods including a two bath HC110 in his book, The Art of

Photography. I havn't tried any of his methods as I personally don't

use HC110.

Peter, you didn't say how long you presoak....try 3 min. in distilled

water. You might also take a look at Phil Bard's developing panels. I

build one of these for developing pyro negatives and they work great.

 

<p>

 

http://philbard.com/panel.html

Bob, I 've shot several rolls of Delta 3200 rated at EI 1600 with

good shadow detail. I use Xtol 1:1 @ 75 degrees for 8 min. This

worked for my system, but if you look at different posts on the

subject...time and temp. can vary from person to person.

Bill, I've processed Tmax 100 several times and the negatives always

looked normal. The only thing I do different is a water rinse instead

of stop bath.

I have some photos at www.photo.net...look under galleries...public

portfolios by artist.....scroll down to my name. 4X5 & medium format.

I found a remedy for the leaking lid gaskets. When I dug my old

Unicolor drum out that hadn't been used since the early 1980's, it

leaked pretty bad. I held the plastic gasket with pliers over a hot

stove eye and worked it back into shape, letting it cool, heating it

again if needed. I have been using it for a year now....doesn't leak

a drop!

John, I use a Unicolor drum for processing 4x5 Tri-x in Xtol 1:2. I

had to cut the recommended development time quite a bit because of

the continuous agitation. I think you will like the Unicolor drum

processing, but you will have to do some testing to see what works

best for your film and developer. Somebody else's dev. time might not

be the best for your system.

Also with Trib's pinhole camera, your pictures will have a nice brown

tone.

Would the Schneider 210/6.1 Xenar be a good lens for landscapes and general photography? I have read that some of the Xenars are sharp in the center, but soft toward the edges. I don't do prints larger than 11x14. Thanks.

Sal, I use a 20"x24" vacuum frame in my own screen printing business

for contacting ortho positives. I'm sure there are a lot of printers

that have these laying around collecting dust. I'm not sure if you

can find one smaller than 20x24.

You might check some offset printers and screen printers in your

area. Sometimes these shops have an old vacuum frame they don't use

anymore since computers have made a lot of darkrooms obsolete.