harleyman7
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Posts posted by harleyman7
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I have a 168mm Goerz Dagor that I use on a 4x10 camera. I think it will cover 8x10 with no movements. You can usually find one on Ebay...I gave $115.00 for mine.
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Steve, I have a Calumet wide body and the 135mm is the lens I probably use most. I have also used a 210mm which is the limit on mine. The thing I like about the wide body is you can go down to a 65mm lens on a flat lens board.
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I skimmed over all the responses and could have missed if someone else suggested checking your lens board for leaks. I had a fogging problem a few years ago....the lens board had a pinhole in it, it can happen even with metal boards.
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Steve's right, these are pretty simple cameras and any of the large format books that explain movements etc. would be about all you need...but if you really want a manual, you can order them from craigs cameras for about $15.00....http://www.craigcamera.com
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I have about nine LF photos in my portfolio.
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I use HP5+ rated at 200 and PMK. I've shot inside historic theaters that are so dark that a flashlight is necessary to set the shutter speed and f-stop (4x5) with excellent results.
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Whatever film and developer you choose, I would do some tests to determine correct film speed and development times for your equipment. Someone else's development times may not work for you. It just seems kind of risky to shoot maybe once in a lifetime shots with
a film and developer combination you are not familiar with.
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I've used rapid fix (without hardener) with PMK for years with excellent results...HP5+.
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Yes. The lid just keeps the chemicals in when you invert the tank.
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Most screen printing business's had some kind of process camera before the days of computers. They were a high dollar item in their day. Most company's in my area either gave them away or had them hauled off for junk because they couldn't sell them. I own a screen printing business and gave mine to a friend.
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I've never used a Beseler drum, but the unicolor drums ar ribbed inside to keep the film from touching the walls.
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No contacts. 8x10 & 11x14 matted...give them away.
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I agree with Ken. I have shot a lot of sagging barns and buildings and always just level the camera, make sure the back is vertical and shoot.
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Sometimes I use my spot meter for zone placement and sometimes I just use an incident meter...it depends on the subject matter, time involved, etc.
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I also never use hardener in fixer...for film or paper.
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Take some pictures. If you have good shadow detail, use the film speed your test indicate. if not, lower the film speed.
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In the instruction sheet supplied by Bill, the matte side faces up and the fresnel side faces down. That's from Bill himself!
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James, my Rolleiflex has squeaked for years...I've never tried to oil it, but it might be worth a try.
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My advice to anyone using any developer for the first time is to make some test exposures and develop those before you try it on your important shots. Someone else's development times just may not work as well for you.
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I've used a water stop bath for years for both roll film and large format. 30 seconds with continual agitation. Water is cheap...change it with every batch of film.
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I've used Ilford multigrade fiber for years and see no decline in quality. It's one of the best in my opinion.
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I also have second thoughts about posting because of image quality, but I do have some large format along with medium format posted.
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Agree, who needs a new one. I'm just trying to master the one I'm using now instead of holding my breath for a new one.
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Steve, I use the CC400 series wide body version with the recessed front standard. With the standard bellows,I can use the 90mm and even the 65mm on a flat lens board with movements. These are great little cameras for normal and wide angle...210mm is the longest lens it will take.
8x10 Enlargers HELP!!!!!
in Large Format
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