tate_jackson

John, Thanks for the fast responses.  I think this question was so basic, that I could not find an answer using google.  

 

Tate

I just started using a Zorki 4k with a 50mm lens.  I want to switch to a 35mm lens.  Do I need to adjust the rangefinder every time I want to switch lenses?  Does changing the focal length of a lens necessitate adjustment or calibration of the rangefinder?  

Thanks

ate

 

<p>Only if you think it is. I shoot sports photography 10 months out of the year. If I feel like I am getting bored or my creativity is getting cold, I break out a few film cameras from the collection and leave the digital cameras at home. Shooting a few dozen rolls of black and white reinvigorates me.<br>

After writing this, I have decided to shoot tomorrow's double header with a pair of F3HP's, a couple of primes and some Agfa APX 100 that has been in my fridge. Hopefully, I can find some time next week to go to the darkroom<br>

So yes, shooting film is very much worth it for me. I wish I could do it more often.</p>

<p>Wow, I am sorry your fellow sports parents are so ungrateful. That has to hurt.<br>

I have had the opposite experience. I have been photographing my son's baseball and basketball teams for over 5 years and I have gotten nothing but gratitude from the parents.<br>

For basketball, I photograph about half the games and send out 8 to 12 pictures of each player per game. I get thank you notes from all the parents and some of the players and usually some sort of gift at the end of the season. Usually a gift card to Ritz Camera.<br>

For baseball, every parent is required to volunteer to be responsible for one of about 10 or 12 different tasks throughout the season in an effort to control expenses. I always volunteer to be the team photographer. I photograph every game including tournaments and send out pictures to all the families. Usually 10 to 15 photos per player per game. The parents are extremely grateful. I have gotten many thank you emails and I always get a very nice gift at the end of the season. I got an iPad mini last year.<br>

I tell my story not to brag, but to let you know that not all sports parents are ungrateful and a lot of them understand that good pictures take hard work and a lot of time. And a lot of people understand that paying for a picture does not make it better. I agree with the statement made earlier. If they are not going to be appreciative of your hard work, don't photograph the team. Just photograph your child. Let the other parents pay for someone else's pictures if they want to. </p>

<p>Thanks for the answers. I found a copy of Lightroom 2 and will load it onto my Powerbook. The reason I don't use the second LR 3 license I have is that LR 3 and above do not run on the G4 processor. LR2 is the latest version to run on the G4. </p>

<p>Thanks again for the help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have been using Lightroom 3 to manage and edit my images. Great program. This summer I will be photographing several baseball tournaments and it would be helpful if I could start the rating and editing process on a laptop at night in the hotel. </p>

<p>My question is:<br>

I have a perfectly good 17 inch Powerbook G4 1.33 GHz laptop just sitting in a closet. If I buy a copy of Lightroom 2 and load it on the Powerbook to start edits and ratings, can I use the export as a catalog function in Lightroom 2 to export the photos with the edits and ratings to a file and then import that file (a lightroom 2 catalog and photos with edits) into the Lightroom 3 catalog on my Windows 8 desktop and preserve all the ratings and edits I did on the Powerbook.<br>

I can find copies of Lightroom 2 cheap on the internet and I would like to avoid the expense of buying a new laptop. I am only going to photograph 2 or 3 tournaments away from home.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>For indoor basketball I use a Nikon 85mm f1.8, wide open. For under the basket, I use a Nikon 35mm f2.<br>

I did try a Nikon 200mm F2 one time and loved it. Great lens for getting capturing your team playing defense under the far basket.<br>

I'd love to try a Sigma 20mm F1.8 for under the basket.</p>

 

<p>Go to Amazon and search for book called "Making Videos That Don't Suck" Don't let the title put you off. The author is a seasoned Videographer and gives great advice for those of use that just want to put together short videos for family and friends.</p>

<p>It's not specific to the Nikon D7000 or any other camera/camcorder, but it really helped me. </p>

<p>For the past 3 years, I have been the team photographer for my son's baseball team. I photograph every scrimmage, game and a good number of the practices. <br>

Each year the head coach asks for a volunteer to be the team photographer and each year all the other parents immediately ask me to volunteer. And each year I ask every family to send me an email giving me permission to photograph their son and any family members that shows up at the games. If anyone asks me not to photograph them during a game, I don't. <br>

I am often asked to photograph other teams. As long as the coach gets written permission from all the parents, I am happy to oblige.<br>

You just can't be too careful when it comes to kids. A few minutes of CYA can save a photog a lot of grief. The only problems I have now are too many requests to photograph teams and too many requests from moms and dads to use Photoshop to make them look skinnier. <br>

To the OP: I suggest you comply with the YMCA's request. </p>

<p>Just my 2 cents.</p>

<p>I really like the idea of a Monochrome Only digital camera. I could make use of that high iso performance. I am keeping my fingers crossed that some other camera company will make one for under a grand.</p>

<p>I use Nikon camera, not Canon. I shoot a fair amount of youth basketball. I use a 35mm f2, a 50mm F1.8, and an 85mm f1.8. I have also tried a 135 F2 and a 200 F2. The two lenses I use regularly are the 35mm and the 85mm. the 35 is good for under the basket and the 85mm gives good shots out to 5 feet or so above the top of the key when I am standing at the baseline. The 200mm was great beyond half court. The 135 was good from the top of the key to half court.<br>

If I won the lottery, I would shoot basketball with a 20mm 1.8, a 35mm 2.0, an 85mm 1.8 and a 200 f2 along with a pair of Nikon D3s.</p>

<p>BTW, in the league I shoot, no flashes are allowed. </p>

<p>Looks like I am the odd man out here. I don't use any head on my monopod. I screw the monpod directly in the tripod collar of my lens. I tilt the entire monpod, camera and lens as a unit when I need to. I switch between portrait and landscape by rotating the lens in the collar.</p>

<p>How much does the size and weight factor into what lens you buy?<br>

I read several photo websites, blogs and articles everyday and the subject of lens size and weight are talked about a lot. Many photographers say they did not buy a certain lens because of the size or the weight or they bought a lens because it was light and small. This got me thinking.<br>

I have never considered the the physical measurements of a lens as a factor in where I bought it or not. If a lens filled a need I had, then I bought it. Am I in the minority?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>My D70 has 48,000 shutter clicks on. Shutter still works great, but the camera won't read a cf card anymore. This is a common problem with the original D70</p>

<p>I just finished shooting my son's 9 year old little league team's season. All of the feedback you have gotten is spot on. The only thing I can add is ask the umpire if you can stand inside the fence along the base line. I was allowed to shoot 17 out of 18 games inside the fence. Also, don't be afraid to move beyond the first or third basemen. I have managed to get some pretty cool shots of close plays because I was standing along the baseline fence in the outfield shooting back towards the bases.<br>

Be careful and look out for over thrown and foul balls. I got hit in the ankle, the ear and had a lens broken because I wasn't watching for the ball. <br>

Good luck and have fun. Shooting "munchkin" baseball is a lot of fun. </p>

<p>Nikon F5, Nikon F3HP, Ansco Viking, Calumet CC-401, Speed Graphic.<br>

The 35mm are used weekly. The Ansco ,the Calumet and the Speed Graphic are used once or twice a month. Sorry, No Leicas in the collection yet, but I am hopeful</p>

<p>In situations like this, I bring a p&s that is small enough to put in a pocket or hang off my belt out of sight. The D3 and its lenses stay home.<br>

I used to bring a d70 with a 28-80mm in situations like this. When the d70 died, I started carrying a Canon powershot. I am taking less pictures, but I am enjoying the events more. When folks give me the "I was hoping you would bring your good camera." line. I politely respond, "I'm off today."<br>

I must admit that I will watch the hired photog to see if I can pick up any new ways of doing things, but I never intentionaly bother them.</p>

<p>While a agree with most of the responses about why Nikon designs cameras the way they do, I think it would be fun to own a digital version of a FM-10 or a Pentax K1000. Manual focus, manual flash, manual apeture and shutter, shoots raw only. No menus, just dials</p>

<p>Other than possible education value, I doubt there is a market for a camera like this, but I would have a lot of with this camera if it did exist.</p>

<p>I use my Film Camera's quite often. <br>

I am the designated Dad With a Camera for my son's baseball team. I mostly shoot with my D3, but one game I shot B&W using my F5. Ever since then, I have been getting more requests for B&W pictures from the F5. Now I alternate between the D3 and the F5. I shoot one inning digital and one inning film. It expensive, but lots of fun. And the parents love the look of the B&W.</p>

<p>Well folks, it turns out it was a memory card problem. I decided to try the camera one more time before sending back to the dealer. I had no problems. Then I noticed that I was not using the same cards that were in the camera when I had the problems. I tried those cards and the problem replicated its self. I changed out the cards again, and the problem went away.<br>

Again, thanks for all the great advice.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the great responses. Since I have only had the camera for a month, I'm going to send it back to the used camera dealer I bought it from. I have a 60 day warranty.</p>

<p>Thanks again.</p>

<p>My Nikon D3 is produing some odd pictures. I don't knwo how to describe the problem, so Ihave posted some examples below.</p>

<p>Any Idea what the problem is and how I fix it? This just started happening about 4000 shutter clicks ago. The odd thing is the picture thumb nails look fine, but when I open these picture files, this is what I see displayed on the screen. The camera is set to Jpeg Fine and I am viewing them on Picasa 3.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am a DWC for my son's little league baseball team. <br>

I can tell you that in my organization, every team has a volunteer parent who takes of all the team games and events and makes them available to the the parents of team members.<br>

What parents in my area seem to want is an entire season photographed and not just 1 or 2 games. Maybe you should try and approach individual teams and see if they will hire you for a season. I know it sounds crazy, but I have been approached by a couple of other teams asking what I would charge to photograph an entire season for them.<br>

BTW, another advanage a league approved photgrapher has is access. As a DWC, I have to stay outside the fence line at my kid's games. The offical league or tournement photographer gets to be on the field and in the dougout.</p>

<p>Very Interesting Thread. I shoot mostly sports photography (Baseball). My most used lenses are a Nikon 70 to 200 and a Tamron 200 to 400. <br>

With the nikon, most of my pictures are in the 120 to 180mm range with enough at 70 or 200 for me to want to keep this lens.<br>

With the 200 to 400, most of my pictures seemed to be lumped together at 230 to 240, 300 to 330 and 400mm. <br>

For me, zooms seem to work best .<br>

I agree witht he poster that recommended renting a 200mm for a weekend to see how it works for you.</p>

i was surfing thru KEH's website. They have a number of used Nikon

F5's for sale. Some marked USA and some marked Imported.

 

Is this a big deal if I'm buying a used camera out of warranty? Will

repaired cost more on an "Import" vs. a "USA" Camera?

 

thanks

 

Tate