steve_johnston4

I turned the camera off in midsequence of a 7 frame bracket run while running on continuous high speed while in live view.  One of the replies recommended to: 1. remove and then replace the battery.  2. with the shutter button depressed,  turn the camera on.  I did that 2 or three times and then the flashing err code disappeared and the camera returned to normal.   

My post of about Oct 5th was replied to by at least three people.  That post has since disappeared.  The replies led to my being able to fix the camera myself.  Lesson learned;  confirm serial numbers first.  Thank you all!

The 20-35mm/f2.8 AF-D is, by now, an "ancient" lens. What exactly do you mean by getting "the newest version" of it?

 

I have never owned that 20-35mm zoom. In its days it was a pioneer wide zoom when zooms were uncommon and considered lower quality. Around 2001, I got the 17-35mm/f2.8 AF-S. For years I was quite happy with it until I started using 24MP, 36MP DSLRs. Today, if you want an F-mount lens, I prefer the 18-35mm/f3.5-4.5 AF-S, but that is a slower lens and is also a G lens. If you are planning to use it on older film SLRs, G lenses maybe a problem.

 

The state of the art for wide zooms is probably Nikon's two Z-mount mirrorless lenses: 14-30mm/f4 S and 14-24mm/f2.8 S. But that is a totally different mount and a different discussion.

I am by now ancient as well! I use it on 850 and 800e for landscapes and architecture. Works fine with a little help from Lr and Ps . It prints very well about as large as anyone wants. I am not going to go the Z route, just yet. It's just old and I am worried about the focusing motor. What is you opinion of the current 14-24 2.8?

I’m testing software now, and had no trouble downloading the 30-day demo (https://nikcollection.dxo.com/download).

I downloaded it as well. My trial software does not fully operate. It's like waiting for me to pay for it before is fully functions.

Here is a size comparison among several mid-range Nikkor zooms. The one I don't have is the 24-70mm/f2.8 G AF-S, without VR. It is similar to the AF-S VR version, just a bit smaller.

 

Since the 28-70mm/f2.8 AF-S is shorter, it feels smaller and easier to hold than the 24-70mm/f2.8 AF-S VR.

 

[ATTACH=full]1315426[/ATTACH]

Thank you very much. Based upon all the feedback, I'll plan on getting a current 24-40 2.8 VR in the future, assuming Nikon does not suddenly come out with pocket sized hi-res gear.

Yeah, what’s the diff besides the button location? So the BKT button is on the left side of the pentaprism hump instead of on top of the turret. But the procedure is unchanged.

You are right. After practicing it a few times, it does not seem much more complicated. Just different from the d800e. I have used 2 800e's for several years. Switching one from the other is a no-brainer. 800-850? Stop-Look-Listen.

Nothing dramatical has happened in computer parts since 2013. Processors may have more cores, but that does not matter much in photoshop. Memory has faster connection, but latencies have risen. Graphics card is probably still named Quadro. System SSDs now have m2 connection that is slightly faster than sata SDDs were in 2013. Storage is still often traditional spinning hard drives.

 

Study current computer specs and aim to double everything.

That is about what I thought as well. What about OS?

The original, unedited is still there right where you put it unmodified. Lightroom editing is "non-destructive"; it does not change any pixel in the RAW file. Instead the editing steps are recorded, either in the Lightroom catalog or in a XMP sidecar file. When you view the image, either in Lightroom or exported to Photoshop where it is opened in a compatible version Camera RAW. the steps are applied to the RAW file in memory and the result displayed, but the RAW file itself is untouched. The only time pixels are changed is when the edited image is exported as another file type - JPEG, TIFF, PSD, etc. And then only the exported file is changed; the original RAW file is untouched.

 

If you wish to go back to the original but at the same time keep the edit changes you have made:

 

1) First create a Virtual Copy of the current edited state. In the Develop Module, click Photo > Create Virtual Copy.

 

2) In the Develop Module Click the RESET button - bottom right side of the Develop window. You are now back at square one, but the Master remains edited.

 

3) Or on the Virtual Copy you can step back through the steps in the History Panel (left side of the window) to any previous point.

I do a lot of editing, and print from Ps. What are the steps to take to ensure or find the unedited original raw file? Thanks!