joe_allebaugh

<p>Jay</p> <p>I have/use the newest Voigt M 35/1.2 but not the Zeiss model. I will confirm its vignetting character on the a7R, as well as M9 and M240 bodies, but no color shifting on either body make. I understand not wanting to post-process files, and simply use these electronic bodies like film bodies. My practice across all electronic bodies has always been to record Raw+Jpeg files for every image. This gives me something to view or distribute immediately, developed within the body according to current menu settings, as well as the original "negative" file to process later if/as desired. The downside is greater storage requirements versus the option of wider future refinements. Sony has also made a brand-specific copy of Phase One's, Capture One Raw convertor software, available on its support site (<a href="http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=ILCE7R&template_id=1&region_id=1&tab=download#/downloadTab">http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=ILCE7R&template_id=1&region_id=1&tab=download#/downloadTab</a>), so there's no expense, except learning curve, for testing with Raw files.</p> <p>You might look further at the following link for more lens test observations for a variety of lenses tested on the a7R, including the two 35s you've mentioned above - http://www.ronscheffler.com/techtalk/?p=251.</p>

<p>Mark</p> <p>Have a look at these two software sites, including one package from Sony, for possible video correction and editing solutions, links - <a href="http://vegasaur.com/Defishr">http://vegasaur.com/Defishr</a> and <a href="http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/moviestudiope?keycode=9500-9500">http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/moviestudiope?keycode=9500-9500</a>. Both have a download option to try. The defishr software may be too limited versus a broader distortion correction package. The Sony package is worth a look.</p>

<p>Mark</p> <p>It appears the E 18-105/4 lens profile is currently provided in updates to both Adobe Lightroom (added to v5.3) and to Photoshop Camera Raw in CS6 (added v8.3). See link - http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/multi/lens-profile-support-lightroom-4.html.</p> <p>This fact obviates having to create another with Lens Profile Creator. Lightroom is the least expensive retail option, and a free, full version can be downloaded for 30 day trial.</p> <p>Both Lightroom and Photoshop's Camera Raw support lens correction in Jpeg and Tiff files as well as Raw. Adobe has been good at adding new lenses and camera models, even to updating older models for better and more accurate image processing. I believe this is the closest you'll get to a solution to your initial post.</p>

<p>Mark</p> <p>Firmware - the firmware packages that Sony provided for the 5N prompt you to attach the camera via USB and then proceed to update the camera. Very simple process, with the only precautions a well-charged battery, and leaving the cable attached until confirmation is given. FW 1.02 stated to only include the new-at-the-time 16-50 lens, that lens having a lot of electronic zoom and aperture control needing feedback with the body. The Nex6 had similar lens updates, but not for every existing or new lens Sony released.</p> <p>IDC - this Sony app is said to "correct" for some lens aberrations, plus limited manual file edit controls. The lens used is presumably read from the image file's EXIF information, and any correction is automatic (not verified so far), with no ON/OFF comparison available that I can find while using the app. Whatever lens profile characteristics Sony applies are hidden within the app, or perhaps no profile is provided for the particular lens used.</p> <p>Adobe's lens correction within Camera Raw does have an ON/OFF switch where you can see the effect of the profile used. The downside with Adobe is very few Sony lenses have profiles currently, but you are enabled to create more as you need using their Creator app, or, finding a profile that someone has created and made available via the Net. I'll look a bit more at IDC, but Adobe's CR-profile will and has gotten most of my attention and effort.</p> <p>You are hoping too much for Sony's benign forward planning.</p>

<p> Mark</p> <p>Been traveling and just saw your un-responded question. I think your partial answer may come from Sony's software app - Image Date Converter, link - <a href="http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=NEX5N&LOC=3#/downloadTab">http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=NEX5N&LOC=3#/downloadTab</a>. It's free to download and use, and this app may be Sony's route to correcting new and future lenses (my pure speculation). IDC is also an opaque box, demanding full trust.</p> <p>I still have/use a 5N body and retain copies of both 5N firmware revisions, 1.01 and 1.02, but only have and tested the latest revision of Image Date Converter, 4.2.03. The IDC app works from Raw files, saving to JPGs or TIFFs. Forget a new firmware from Sony at this date. It is also possible that the 18-105 was released after the 5N was out of production; another negative for updates.</p> <p>If you use Photoshop, Adobe has a Lens Profile Creator app to download, plus a very limited collection of canned profiles to download via a companion app. The 18-105 is not among the canned profiles. The profiles would become useable selections via Adobe Camera Raw lens correction tab.</p> <p>You mention the E16-70/4. I find the E16-70 to be very good quality and range (equiv. 24-105 on FF). I bought a used copy more than a year ago and it's rarely off my Nex6. Worth a look/try.</p> <p>If I find other resources, I'll get back.</p>

<p>One further thought: check that firmware version is up to date - http://us.leica-camera.com/Service-Support/Support/Downloads?category=93710&subcategory=93713&type=108942&language=93871.</p> <p>Version 1.196 is the latest.</p>

<p>Here is the link to a list of 6-bit coding patterns for Leica-M and selected third party lenses - <a href="http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-lens-codes.">http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-lens-codes.</a> Try the above suggested Leica entries from your camera menu list or others until you minimize the color shading.<br> Enjoy your new camera.</p>

<p>Not possible. Using Sony's AF lenses, but in MF mode, will automatically zoom in for focusing and display a distance bar in the viewfinder. The camera apparently must be electrically connected to the lens for this zoom action to work.</p>

<p>With both in-camera cases, you are relying on camera settings and processing to provide the review image before and after the image file is recorded. The LCD and VF image is the result of settings for Creative Style, Contrast, Sharpness, White Balance and Saturation made in the in-camera menu. With those five menu settings you'll get 2000 and many more different in-camera changed views of that single Raw file.</p> <p>When a pair of files is produced, only the processed JPEG file shows the effect of those in-camera settings. The Raw image files are identical whether recorded alone or with a secondary JPEG file. I typically record both files when I want an immediate file to transmit. Selected Raw files can be processed later. Your choice here.</p>

<p>Per John Crowe's comments above, I use several of Ed Mika's adapters on FD lenses to Canon DSLR (see Ed's product link - http://www.ebay.ca/sch/ed_mika/m.html?item=180730111869&viewitem=&clk_rvr_id=311152760822&afsrc=1&_trksid=p4340.l2562), as well as many FD lenses on Sony NEX crop and newest FF bodies.</p> <p>These old lenses are mostly high quality, and a return to the slower pace of using manual focus optics.</p>

<p>Don't have the X2 to comment on that, but I use Wasabi batteries and one of their charges for other camera brands I own. I don't notice a difference in running time between Wasabi and OEM, and the OEM chargers handle them equally to OEM batteries. Quite a bargain, as you note.</p> <p>Several top retailers list the viewfinder model as both for the M(240) as well as for the X2, and selling for ~$500. I would take that as a good indication that the Oly VF2 is compatible - <a href="http://leicarumors.com/2012/05/31/leica-x2-evf2-viewfinder-is-made-by-olympus.aspx/">http://leicarumors.com/2012/05/31/leica-x2-evf2-viewfinder-is-made-by-olympus.aspx/</a> and http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/41547697 .</p>

<p>My only experience of M9 repair services with the NJ center has been rangefinder adjustment. </p> <p>You might get some immediate feedback or a return call from one of their tech staff. I've even carried in an older M lens I'd just purchased about a year ago, with 14-day return rights. The seller had indicated it might have slight haze. I was going to leave it but the receptionist said she'd ask if a tech was available. Fifteen minutes later, a clean bill of health. Worth a try, at least for further information.</p>

<p>Arthur,<br> There are two pro/tech/user-review sites I've followed that you might find particularly useful - <a href="http://www.ronscheffler.com/techtalk/">http://www.ronscheffler.com/techtalk/</a> (covers all three bodies and many M and M-mount WA and longer lenses among his TechTalk posts), and <a href="http://www.pebbleplace.com/Personal/Reviews.html">http://www.pebbleplace.com/Personal/Reviews.html</a> (M8, M9 & M240, M and M-mount lenses).</p> <p>Personally, the VC 12 (latest) does give colored flanks on the a7r as well as the ZM 21/2.8. The VC 35/1.2 (latest) has been good. My late/ish Ms of 50luxA and longer are good. An early model (E55) MATE has been good as well.</p> <p>I don't post-process Raw file much from any body (although I might play more with LR5 to get the CV12 files fixed). The prints I make up to 16"x?? have been clean and well received.</p> <p>I will add that many old adapted WAs (FD, Nikkor and Oly used) are great. </p> <p>Hope this helps and is not too much.</p>

<p>I have the three FF bodies you use or are considering - M9, M240 and a7r, purchased in that order (although the Sony was on preorder when offered the M240). Never had a commercial connection or wide public interest in photography. No film since 1999.</p> <p>From habit, every early compact digital I've used since 2000 featured an OVF. Besides the OVF of the M240 I found the articulated EVF (plus LV) most interesting (I use the angle extension for more flexibility many times with the M9). The a7r has more flexibility beyond the Ms. Its high-res EVF is tops as well as the operating range of the rear display.</p> <p>I came from DSLRs to mirrorless with Sony's NEX models (5n and 6), both with the same high quality EVF and flexible LCD features. I still use several older DSLRs for their features and mostly longer lenses. The small sizes and lower weight of the Ms and Sony bodies makes carrying a preferred two bodies plus a small selection of lenses, no longer internally debatable or restrictive. Rent both for a week or more to compare. If adapters are also available, Novoflex have been best. If you use the WATE, compare that lens for WA.</p>

<p>Yes, field of view is the same on full frame mirrorless.</p>

<p>Check B&H - $7000, Popflash - $6500, many more on the big auction site between those numbers, plus fraud protection.</p>

<p>AutoHDR, within the camera, does create three bracketed exposures (under, normal and over, where under and over can be Menu-chosen to be from -6EV to +6EV in 1EV steps from the camera's normal exposure). The camera then combines the three internal files into one merged HDR jpg file. It writes only TWO jpg files to the card: the merged HDR file, and the normal exposure file, discarding the other internal files.</p> <p>Yes, DRO in PASM modes will output one Raw file, or one camera-processed jpg file, or a Raw file plus a camera-processed jpg file. DRO also has a simple Auto option, as well as a series of processing levels. The output Raw file is normal camera exposure. You might then compare the appearance of the Raw to the processed jpg in order to either reset levels in-camera and take another image, or take the normal Raw file into your editor software (Sony's with its DRO function plus other features, or another 3rd party file editor package).</p> <p>I'd pick the Raw+jpg output option and go from there, BUT, also compare it to the internal HDR file just to fully examine both output. I believe you can have both camera Menu options turned ON, and change modes to/from PASM as you make your trial images.</p>

<p>Andrew,</p> <p>Sony's latest Image Data Converter software application (<a href="http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/swu-download.pl?mdl=NEX6&upd_id=9790&os_group_id=5">http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/swu-download.pl?mdl=NEX6&upd_id=9790&os_group_id=5</a>) does not support HDR creation or combination of files. The closest it comes to producing an HDR-like output file from a single Sony-RAW file is the D-Range Optimizer edit function. Sony goes as far as providing a setting to reference one or more external file editors, such as Photoshop, for editing files beyond its limited abilities.</p> <p>There is a barely more extensive online guide than the help file created when the package is installed on your computer - http://guide.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/pmb/940_00/4000/us/</p> <p> </p>

<p>There is a short article here - <a href="http://photogearheads.com/carl-zeiss-mirotar-1000mm-telephoto-lens/">http://photogearheads.com/carl-zeiss-mirotar-1000mm-telephoto-lens/</a>, and a link to a PDF copy of the original Zeiss specs - <a href="http://photogearheads.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Zeiss_mirotar_1000_brochure.pdf">http://photogearheads.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Zeiss_mirotar_1000_brochure.pdf</a>.</p> <p>There could not have been many photographers willing to pay up for a ~35lb lens!</p> <p>Also, see this link on photo.net - <a href="/medium-format-photography-forum/00az7K">http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00az7K</a>.</p>

<p>Under the Custom Settings menu - the Gear symbol - change Focus Mag Time for the amount you'd prefer.</p>

<p>Other than a wear issue with coding marks on the flat Zeiss mount throwing its ID off, all coded lenses have repeated to accurately identify on the camera info screen (M9 and M) and in file EXIF as they were originally coded, Voigts included (with the recessed area containing the coding marks).</p> <p>I saw where there were replacement M-mount plates that would bring up the correct frame line pairs on the camera body for the focal length of the lens. The plates have 6 wells, like Leica's 6-bit coded models, that can then be user coded once you determine a best match for that lens.</p> <p>I have never used or tried these plates. I had a few Contax G lens converted to M-mount two years back using that type of welled M plate, and one or more knocked my M9 baseline off, twice. They're still used, and great optics, but on a mirrorless body with M convertor.</p>

<p>This is the link for the made-up template if you choose not to make one for yourself - http://bophoto.typepad.com/bophoto/2009/01/m8-coder-simple-manual-handcoding-of-m-lenses.html</p>

<p>For manual selection - ~15-20 seconds</p> <p>Marker lens codes - see this link - <a href="http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-lens-codes/">http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-lens-codes/</a>. I bought one of the templates from Bob Blakley, mentioned near the end of the link. It's accurate for proper placement. I've coded several M-mount lenses from Zeiss and Voigtlander. My Voigt models have a recessed rimmed well around the outside of the mount plate, making it difficult to rub/wear off the markings once applied. Zeiss hss a flat plate, but the markings appear to persist and are easy to touch up once accurately established. I use a black Sharpie and apply a couple of coats to deepen the overall coating. A matte black paint would be preferred.</p> <p>Leica NJ did a couple of their lenses for me, at $300/. No 3rd party experiences.</p> <p>Non-Leica lenses do not usually correspond to the same type (code) as Leica's, but a close match is a good place to begin. You can manually select one of their lenses in camera until a good match is obtained, then marker-code it per the above table.</p> <p>As far as I know, lens codes go into Raw files during original write. There may be EXIF tools to enter the info after the fact.</p>

<p>Since you currently have Canon lenses, why not get a used EOS-1 or 3 or Elan, Rebel, ..., pick a favorite prime, and shoot a few rolls to get back to that "feel". Guaranteed, the film and processing will cost more than the body.</p> <p>If that's still too much automation, and old manual A or F body and an inexpensive nFD 28 or 35 or 50 would cost no more; probably less than <100.</p> <p>Not a Leica? - rent a body and lens for a week.</p>