celerystalksme
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Posts posted by celerystalksme
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Hello,
I'm in search of a photographer that is experienced in shooting models in
Michigan. The subject is inexperienced and a bit shy, so a photographer that
gives direction and is patient would be ideal. I'm looking for print/art level
work.
Any advice?
Thanks!
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Rhode Island School of Design
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Silent? No shutter lag? Compact?
I'd say either the Olympus XA or the Minox 35 GT-E. I like the XA better.
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hyperfocal distance is the distance setting at any aperture that produces the greatest depth of field...or hyperfocal distance is the point of focus where everything from half that distance to infinity falls within the depth of field.
there are formulas you can find to calculate the hyperocal point...and there are ready-made charts for various focal lengths at various f-stops. just remember when looking at the hyperfocal chart: everything from about half the hyperfocal distance to infinity will be in focus.
for example, the hyperfocal distance for a 35mm lense (with 35mm film format) at f8 is 16.75 feet. so you set you camera to f8 and to about 16.75 feet. everything form about 8 feet to infinity will be in focus. so you just snap away without worrying too much about focus...zero shutter lag.
read here: http://www.vividlight.com/articles/3513.htm
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I was just thinking...if you get a compact cam like an older Olympus XA or Minox 35 GT-E...you could set them to hyperfocal focusing...and just shoot away. Zero shutter lag...quietest camera...super compact.
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Shutter lag bugs the heck out of you? Well...that cuts out MOST digitals. According to reviews, newer digitals like the Fuji F30 are coming close to having as little shutter lag as a quick film p&s. So on that note, I gotta recommend the Fuji F30 if you go digital. IMO, it's the best compact p&s digital availabe. Pretty quick, good quality photos, and widest range of usable ISO's.
If you want marginally faster shooting, then get a film p&s. Gotta say, it's only barely noticeably faster shooting than something like a Fuji F30. But to some, barely faster is STILL faster.
Best small/pocketable p&s film cams are things like the Leica CM, Contax T3, Minolta TC-1, Ricoh GR1v, Rollei AFM35 (Fuji Klasse), Fuji Natura Black F1.9, Yashica T4 Super (Yashica T5), Olympus Stylus Epic (Olympus MjuII).
They are probably your best bets for compact film fixed focal length point&shoots. The Fuji Natura is nice because of its bright f1.9 lens. The Yashica is pretty neat because of the "super scope" (sort of a waist level viewfinder on top of camera), plus the camera is weatherproof. The Fuji Natura, Yashica, and Olympus are almost fully automated (the Natura Black offers exposure compensation). The rest offer varying amounts of manual override.
But my fav's are probably the GR1v and the T3. Very pocketable and both have the ability to accept lens accessories. And the GR1v has a handy SNAP mode and autobracketing.
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Leica CM, Contax T3, Minolta TC-1, Ricoh GR1v, Rollei AFM35 (Fuji Klasse), Fuji Natura Black F1.9, Yashica T4 Super (Yashica T5), Olympus Stylus Epic (Olympus MjuII).
Them are probably your best bets for compact film fixed focal length point&shoots. The Fuji Natura is nice because of its bright f1.9 lens. The Yashica is pretty neat because of the "super scope" (sort of a waist level viewfinder on top of camera), plus the camera is weatherproof.
But my fav's are probably the GR1v and the T3. Very pocketable and both have the ability to accept lens accessories.
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Glenn
you've got mail!
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If anyone knows where I can get a filter ring adapter for the Ricoh GR1v,
please let me know! Thanks!
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Monkey C,
i just sent you an email!
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do you have the filter adapter or the lens hood? or do you have both? and are they black or silver? i ask because people have offered me several silver ones.
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If anyone knows where I can get a black filter adapter and metal lens hood for
the Contax T3, please let me know! Thanks!
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so i know nothing about black and white photography...and i'll be taking my
kodak tri-x to a lab for developing. i plan on photography my girlfriend and my
friends outdoors. and i was told that i might want to overexpose with exposure
compensation or by setting the asa to a slower film on my camera...that doing
this would be good to hide skin blemishes.
is this a good idea?
thanks!
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Do you NEED some water resistance/water proofing WITHOUT a housing? If so, then I'd go with the Olympus Stylus 720SW...and then pick up the Olympus PT-033 underwater housing if I expect to go lower than 10ft.
If you DON'T need water resistance/water proofing WITHOUT a housing...then maybe the Fuji F30 with the Fuji WP-FXF30 housing...usable ISO3200 might come in handy underwater.
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oh, and picture quality is of course very important! :)
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so...i'm in the market for a digital camera. i actually have a canon powershot
a80...it's ok...but i really don't use it much. on most says, i seem to prefer
using something like my ricoh gr1v or olympus xa. the reason is...they're
lighter, more pocketable, and i can get instant snaps without any lag. but, of
course, waiting to get pics developed stinks...paying to see my pictures
stinks...and only getting 36 shots stinks.<br><br>
so i'd like to get a digital that's a bit more handy than my a80. i'm not sure
if my dream camera exists, but here's what i'm looking for in a digital:<br><br>
-light, no heavier than my battery and film loaded gr1v<br>
-as easy to pocket as a xa or gr1v...the a80 seems heavy and slightly bulky<br>
-as little lag as possible...this is pretty darn important<br>
-usuable in as low light conditions as possible...also important<br>
-not imperative...as much soom as possible<br>
-also not a really high priority...but i've heard some digitals are weather
proof...that might be nice!<br><br>
so...do you guys have any suggestions or any idea where i should start my
search? thanks
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i got it off of eBoy for pretty cheap! ('cheap' being a relative word here.) $177.50
i think i got a discount off the $200 NADS. course, my NADS are a bit wonky...it points in funny directions when setting the autotimer. but eh, least i got my NADS!
(NADS...that's comedy.)
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Nevermind...I figured it out. This time, I set all the settings to the end until I got the blinking "04 0 00"...and THEN I depressed the shutter halfway. That did the trick.
One annoying thing is that my viewfinder illumination goes dark when I turn the flash off. That stinks!
Also...I have found that my recently acquired 35ti's analog display is slightly messed up...when I set the self timer, the analog needle seems to point in the wrong direction. I hope I don't find anything else wrong with this camera!
Thanks!
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Dave,
I found an online "guide" with a custom function table...but how do you enable the custom function? Did you read my post? The procedure that I followed (which I found on the internet) is not working. The flash still goes off.
What's the procedure for enabling a custom function?
Thanks!
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Hello,<br></br>
I just acquired a Nikon 35ti...but it did not come with a instruction
manual. I think I may have to find that separately (if anyone knows
where to find one online, let me know).<br></br>
Anyways...my first concern is disabling the flash. The flash almost
always wants to fire...and the little no-flash button on front
doesn't seem to do anything. It seems I have to HOLD that button down
in order to disable the flash for each individual shot. There MUST be
a better way. So I googled...<br></br>
Custom functions...here's what it said to do on one site:<br>
1) hold down 'set' button and switch camera to 'p'<br>
2) change numbers in lcd with 'mode' and 'set' buttons to read '01 1
01'<br>
3) depress shutter release button half way<br><br>
well, i did that...and the flash still wants to fire. what am i doing
wrong?<br><br>
thanks!
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Craig,
But it seems like that's more expensive. And also, allegdly, slide film has such little exposure latitude...and that worries me a little since I'll be mostly taking quick candid snapshots...not a lot of time to think about a shot...I need to be able to point and shoot quickly...that makes me favor the wider exposure latitude of color negative film.
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BUEH,
No, I'm not talking about cross processing (I don't think).
I want to buy some color negative film...shoot with that film...get the film processed (in c41)...get some prints. But then...I'd like to get some mounted slides (positives of course) from that same film.
It looks as thought Dale Labs is capable of doing exactly that though...I think...
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Can labs make me mounted positive slides from color negative print
film? If so...what labs?
Thanks!
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Jeff,
Do you do anything special when shooting slide film with your p&s? Do you put it on spot-meter or not? Do you exposure lock on a 18% gray surface? Do you do any other voodoo magic to get things exposed right?
Or do you just shoot willy-nilly as if you had color negative film with tons of exposure latitude?
Thanks!!
Looking for a model photographer in Michigan...
in Business of Photography
Posted
joseph,
we're in ann arbor but would be willing to travel a little bit. can you refer me to some websites? we're looking for a pretty particular look...so we'd have to see some portfolio's to see if it might be a good match for us. thanks!