amul

Chris,

I have an external spot meter, so that's not a problem. I'm specifically asking if you've used this film and filter combo, and what results you got.

According to

http://www.pauck.

de/marco/photo/infrared/comparison_of_films/comparison_of_films.html

when shooting Kodak HIE with a Hoya R72 filter, I should meter for an

effective ISO of 50. However, it doesn't specify under what lighting

conditions. I infer, from examples shown, that he means daylight. The

HIE fact sheet (and the above website) says that the Wratten #25 also

shoots at effective iso 50 in daylight, but effective 125 under

tungsten. Does this mean I can shoot with the R72 under tungsten at

125?

Has anyone actually tried? Can I see some examples, specifying filter

and metering?

Thanks in advance.

Another filter option for you to consider is the Hoya R72. It's about $30, and produces a much more noticeable effect than the Wratten #25. The often quoted Really Useful IR Website,

http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/infrared/comparison_of_films/comparison_of_films.html

has pictures showing what the effect of various filters look like in comparison to each other. The Hoya R72 will yield noticably different results compared to the Wratten #25, which is a bare step above no filter at all, and while it's not in the same caliber as the $90 lenses (Wratten #88A, Hoya RM90, etc), it's only thirty bucks.

Your 77mm filter size is going to make for a very expensive filter. I'd use the 52mm-ringed lenses for your IR photography, even if there weren't EOS3 problems (of which I have no experience, since I'm not a canon user).

If you develop and print on your own, then the cost difference is only in film and the setup-cost for picking a filter.

Having heard hundreds of horror stories at Pittsburgh Filmmakers, I keep my IR film in the freezer until I'm ready to shoot with it, then I transport it in an ice cooler with a freezer pack. I load the film in bathrooms with no windows, and stuff a towel under the door. Afterwards, I stick it back in the Igloo and then back into the freezer until I'm ready to process. I keep the chemistry and (plastic) tank in a temperature control bath (eg, a tray with calibrated running water). So far no problems. On the other hand, I'm no expert - I'm shooting my fourth roll of IR film on wednesday.

Forum Guidelines has a typo, says "or sale" instead of "for sale."

Feel free to delete this comment once you have corrected the guidelines.

I just typed out my suggestion for the best way to do this, Brian. And I want you to know that I erased that suggestion.

I trust your judgement on these things.

Thank you for all the useful websites, many of which I had alreay discovered during the aforementioned pre-posting search time. It's good to know that these sites have accurate information.

<P>However, the reason I was posting was to get you guys to double-check what I had learned before I go wasting more film. <a href="http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/infrared/comparison_of_films/comparison_of_films.html">Marco Pauck's comparison of IR films</a>, in particular, seems to make it very clear that I want to set my camera and (independant) meter to ISO 50, and that it's not merely okay, but nessecary to use strong light sources, even if they're tungsten. Of course, I'll continue bracketing (especially now that I've just picked up an auto-bracketing camera!) since the light meter doesn't measure IR.

<P>Further, it seems like my film development process was sufficient, and that the precautions I took pre- and post-exposure were sufficient. I say this because the edge-text was clearly distinguishable and the film coloration was comparable to that which I've seen online. So thank god I don't need to learn how to use a 35mm stainless tank.

<P>This is what I believe all my internet research has told me. Will someone please say, "Yes, that's correct," or tell me what I've misunderstood?

I think backdrops are overrated. They're useful in studios, don't get me wrong. But for the kind of work you're talking about doing, you don't need a backdrop.

You want to photograph your wife in a context. Context makes things easier and more evocative, especially for beginners.

I've just purchased the Hoya R72 filter, and some Kodak HIE film. I

was very confused by the directions on the package (which didn't make

a suggestion for the R72), and shot in normal (dim) light in a room

that was approx 80 degrees. Being unsure what effective ISO to use, I

set my camera to 125, and shot at every aperture setting (f2.8 to f22)

. I wasted 2 rolls of film like this.

Having just spent an hour researching online, it looks like I should

have been using my Spot Meter and tungsten lights to determine

settings for an effective ISO of 50.

I finally found some websites that show the effects of this filter

compared to others, but am still unsure if it'll actually record

noticable temperature changes. For instance, if I have a model plunge

her hand into a cup of ice water and then take a picture of the cold

water dripping off it, will there be an noticable IR effect?

What if I keep some clothes in the fridge/freezer? Exactly how

temperature-reactive is the effect?

"Is the studio in your house or a commercial studio? Is this for hobby use, or are you making money off the photos? Is this nude photography, or clothed? Will you pay them for their time?"

I guess I should have made it clear that I'm just a hobbyist/student photographer. The studio is in my house, and any work would strictly be to give me material to work with in the darkroom. As far as nude photography goes, if they offer I'll let 'em, but it's not what I'm asking for. I was thinking about offering them prints for time. The people I've been tempted to ask so far have been of both genders.

I figure the home-studio thing can be easily alleivated by explaining that my girlfriend would be doing their makeup or hair (I'd probably refer to her as my wife, just to give that added security).

I figure the success rate of these kinds of requests would be low, and that's fine.

Mostly, though, I'm just asking how other people handle the urge to walk up to someone and ask them to model for you.

I continue to fall in love with photography every day. I've started

getting to that point where I look at everything in terms of it's

suitability for my lens.

In the last week or so, I've had a number of moments where I've been

tempted to ask cashiers, waitstaff, and fellow customers if they would

model for me. I haven't yet, because I'm worried about how they might

perceive that. Any tips on how to get random streetfolk into your

studio?

I was thinking about buying some business card stock for my printer,

and running off a handful of cards I could hand them. Maybe put the

answers to some frequently asked questions on the back.

Hans,

Almost all of the advanced darkroom techniques I've been reading about, mostly various methods of coloring B&Ws, say to avoid rapid hardening fixer at all costs. You're the first time I've heard anyone say to use the hardener.

You can't imagine how frustrating it is jumping on these threads too late.

Just once, I'd like to log in and be able to see the pics before you yank 'em! Not that I'm complaining about your speed, mind you.

It's just that this has almost become a quest. I WILL catch one of these threads early, dammit! I WILL!

I just realized I needed to purchase a bunch of film while I'm out of

town. I'm having the package shipped to work, and giving them

instructions to stick the package in the fridge. The contents of the

package are:

IR film

Delta 3200 film

Tech Pan film

IR Filter (Hoya RM-72, is that a good one?)

Temperature control valve for my darkroom sink

Is there any risks to keep all that non-film stuff in the fridge for a

week? I've been told that the IR film needs to be stored in the fridge

or freezer before & after use.

Rather than give off a bunch of yes/no questions, I'd make it in a circle-your-choices format, with default answers to the left and clearly marked. For example:

Film: ___________

ISO: _______

Developer: D-76, Acufine, Microphen, ..... Other_________

Fix: Normal, Rapid, Hardening

Special Instructions (push/pull, etc):______

You don't want to discourage customers by making overly complicated forms.

You've certainly got the technical skills down. All that's left is for you to practice until you find a style that suits you. This is your "first try," and you seem well on your way.

It's be helpful to know what film speed you're using, and how this stuff was developed. In a lab, I assume?

There's sort of a scale of responses to the intent of my question, ranging from Bob Keefer who has completely misunderstood my reason for asking this question (although he makes a very valid point), to Dan Schwartz and Dave Redmann.

Bob, I'm not looking to switch over to bottled water instead of tap. I'm trying to accumulate high quality storage containers for cheap, and checking to see if anybody's found any useful chemicals that come in reusable bottles.

To Bob and anyone else who misunderstood, I apologize for the poor phrasing.

I'm in the same boat as you. This is what I've learned so far.

First off, you want to keep the HIE in the fridge before and after you shoot it. Second, you need to load it in complete darkness. If you don't have a darkroom, try a windowless bathroom with towels stuffed under the door. Use the changing bag, too.

The reason the author wants you to use SS tanks is that they're apparently easier to maintain chemistry temperatures with. See, light leaks aren't nearly as much of a problem as HEAT leaks.

<a href="http://www.pentaxusa.com/news/news_display.cfm?pressid=181">It's true.</a>

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<BR>($200) PENTAX 16-45mm DA digital lens if purchased in combination with *ist D digital SLR by June 30, 2004</blockquote>

Unfortunately, I can't remember what the prices used to be. B&H is listing <A href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=getItemDetail&Q=&sku=277617&is=REG&si=acc#goto_itemInfo">the *ist</a> now for $269.95, but I can't find a listing for the lens.

Go with your instincts. If you question it enough to post the question here, you obviously have hesitantions about it.

If this was a local store, I'd say it might be worth the risk since you could keep the receipt. But with web sales, if you have a problem you'll be out the money plus the cost of shipping it back.

What are some good brands of bottled water that I can use to mix my

chemistry? In other words, sufficient water quality and plastic that I

can use after I'm done to hold the chemistry.

And which chemistry does everybody hold on to?

Also, my local public darkroom has agreed to dispose of my fix for me.

What containers should I use to store & transport?

If they're specifically there to pose for you, you might want to try a little makeup on both of them. Particularly the men, since the woman looks like she's already got some on. His skin is very blotchy.

Alternately, you could try to clean up his skin tone yourself in post-production