ricardojmendez
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Posts posted by ricardojmendez
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Hi Josef,
Thanks for the recomendation. I ended up going with a Canon 24mm fixed focal, but I'll keep it in mind. There seems to be a lot of FUD about Sigma on these forums, it's good to have a complementary view of somebody who has used them.
Ricardo
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As a techno-geek that does know about cameras, I'd like to chime in.
Yes, this does not convert the rebel into a 10D. But it adds features I want - like FEC, RAW+JPG and mirror lock-up - so I went in and updated it.
I don't care for the will-it-cut-on-Canon-market-or-not, is-it-a-10D-or-not discussions. I care if it works or not. And for those 300D users wondering, it does work quite well.
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<center><img
src="http://www.strangevistas.net/albums/retratos/F001_06a_Zazzle_Bevel.sized.jpg"
width="800" height="536" border="0" alt="" title="" /></center>
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Being the type that often goes to http://dictionary.reference.com/ let me quote:
"A composition, in prose or poetry, accommodated to action, and intended to exhibit a picture of human life, or to depict a series of grave or humorous actions of more than ordinary interest, tending toward some striking result."
That puts it succintly. Yes, "striking" and "more than ordinary interest" are in the eye of the beholder, which is why something that is dramatic for a person is quotidian to another.
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I don't think it exactly changed my life, but the first artwork that I remember blowing my mind was when, as a 12-year-old who loved horror films, I went to the theater to watch David Cronenberg's 1986 remake of The Fly. I don't think that at the moment I fully understood why it impressed me so - maybe I was too young to grasp the movie - but with the years I've come to dissect what makes it such a brilliant film:
- However cliched it sounds, it works on many levels. What I saw a as a kid was merely an impressive horror movie, but there's the heart-wrenching love story, the fact that Brundle's turning into a horrible fly-thing could be seen as nothing more than a wasting disease that's also affecting the person's mind, and the realistic relationships between the characters.
- It knows what it wants to be. The Fly didn't ramble, or go for cheap, jump-out-of-your-seat scares. It turned out that what Cronenberg wanted to tell was a love story, with one of the characters being ravaged by disease. Focusing on that made the movie be a superb study of three characters that we get to know: no car chases, no big fights, no going through walls while pursuing the cute girl whose clothes become skimpier and skimpier, no filler.
- It crossed boundaries between genres, mixing a horror movie with a love story and a character study, creating something that I hadn't seen before and couldn't have expected. So far it is the only horror movie that, while filling me with revulsion at the sight of the monster, a being I wouldn't want to have anywhere near me, also managed to make me feel sorry about the creature - enough that I cried at the devastated beast's last gesture.
- It was personal. Cronenberg's obsession with the body (and apparently, the body getting out of control and rebelling against the mind trapped inside) infused the film with a strength it wouldn't have had otherwise.
- It stood on its own merits. I am often unable to enjoy the films by Hayao Miyasaki, because he tends to preach so loudly that his pontificating drowns out the movie. Chricton's novels have become mostly about how dangerous technology is, and it will probably get out of control and kill/drown/eat all of us. The Fly never points the finger at technology, or even at Brundle's own carelessness. You never feel the author tapping you on the shoulder, pointing out the Really Important Stuff that you shouldn't miss.
Now, if only the guy who keeps posting that photography isn't art read that, I'm sure he'll have a seizure.
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I'm with Guhan. I was faced with the same choice as you: between used Eos 1n or Eos 3. I went with the Eos 3 for two main reasons: a) it supported E-TTl, and I planned to do flash-photography with two 420EX's, and b) the Eos 3 45-point eye-controlled focus (to which you can link the spot meter) which some people don't like but that I've found incredibly useful.
During use, I also found about the Eos 3 multi-spot metering, where you take multiple spot-meter reader and the camera averages them for you, and which the Eos 1n doesn't have either. This has turned out to be a great tool when dealing with something as narrow-range as spot metering, and would have been enough to convince me to go for an Eos 3 if the other two issues weren't already.
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Amanda,
Yes, I'd suggest increasing exposure from 1-1.5 over what the meter says.
Another trick you can use is (if you're carring a zoom lens) to zoom in as much as possible on what you want to meter, do a partial meter off that, and zoom out for the photo. Partial meter is around 10% of the scene on the Rebel 2000, and zooming in from 28 to 80 would give you just a third of the scene, meaning that you'll be metering about 3% of the whole 28mm-encompassed scene.
It's not perfect, and probably won't be as good as a spot meter, but it can be a helpful trick.
Experiment, and don't be afraid to shoot more than one frame per scene to evaluate which ones give you the best results.
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Two other things that would help:
- How long did you keep it in bulb?
- What do you mean by saying that none of pictures "turned out"? Where the prints all white or all black?
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For those keeping score at home:
Just as I was about to throw out the bloody Photo 820 out the window a couple of days ago, I decided I might as well give the Windex experiment a shot. It worked well, even if not immediately, and removed a persistent clog.
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Stephanie,
The snow is fooling your light meter into believing that the scene is brighter than it actually is. I'd suggest getting either the "Kodak Guide to 35MM photography", which goes into some basic issues and also exposure; or Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" if you're looking for something a bit more focused.
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Jeffrey,
It could well be. In my experience, it's best to run the cleaning process just a couple of times and then give it a "cool down" period of about 20-30 minutes. I get better results cleaning the nozzles this way than with continuos cleaning processes, to less ink expense as well.
Ricardo
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Brendan,
I use The VaGimp as my main editing program (aside from things like NeatImage), it's an excellent tool. Main limitations I'm aware of are that it doesn't work with 48-bit images and has no CMYK support.
You can find a link to a site with some really good Gimp tutorials here: http://ricardo.strangevistas.net/archive/000026.html These exemplify perfectly why Gimp does work for photographers.
Also, do a search for "Gimp" on Photo.net. I'm sure you'll find several posts referring to it.
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The safest way would be to create a PGP disk (www.pgp.com or www.pgpi.com) on this external drive, which is basically a huge file that you can then mount as a separate disk and access it transparently.
If you really want to be paranoid, keep your private PGP keyrings not on the machine but on a floppy or zip disk.
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Option 2. Actually, 2.iii is the only lens from that option which I still don't have, and mean to get in the future.
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Irfanview - www.irfanview.com - has loseless JPG rotation.
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I just grabbed one of these babies about a month ago from e-Bay. Here are a few answers:
1) Autofocus is pretty quiet, even if a bit sluggish. It isn't as quiet as the USM lens I have, but I seriously doubt that anybody standing a meter from you on the street will be able to hear it.
2) When on autofocus, the focusing ring just spins freely. I don't think there's a chance of messing up the focus - much less the lens - when touching it.
3) Don't know.
4) It handles beautiful. I did some lowlight focusing tests yesterday with my EOS 3 around the house, on a rainy day, at about 5pm, and it always handled well. As I mentioned, autofocus is a bit sluggish - I feel it slower than my 50mm 1.8, which isn't an USM either - but it doesn't bother me because it's not a lens I plan to use on tracking shots of fast moving objects. Manual focusing is precise. The lens is small and light that it's a pleasure to have on my rather heavy EOS 3.
Ricardo
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The standard recommendation is that money is better spent on lenses until you have a decent set. It's the standard recommendation because it's a pretty good one, and I'd suggest you consider it.
Ricardo
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The answers to a similar question I posed about a year ago might be useful: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003OfP There are some relevant comparisons in there (like viewfinder brightness).
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Good idea. Just find some way to pay for it that doesn't involve Paypal.
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Hi,
I'm attempting to delete folder http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?
folder_id=157858 , but I'm currently unable to. Every time I
attempt to do it, I get:
Server Error
The requested URL cannot be accessed due to a system error on this
server.
Thanks in advance,
Ricardo
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I use A.I. Soft's Film Factory, which was included with my Epson Stylus Photo 820. Simple and functional.
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Thanks for all the notes. I'll shoot a roll and see what comes out, but since it has only been expired for 4 months (all of which it spent on the fridge) it should be OK.
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As an addendum to the question (which also interests me since I'm going to be developing T-Max for the first time soon): does anybody have any special mixes of developer/fixer they use for T-Max, like for development speed or ultra fine grain?
Ginger Minge
in No Words
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