kipling

no, i use it for 35mm scans and get really good results. a lot depends on the scanning sorfware you use and the film you scan. the 35mm film holder is much better that the crappy mf holder imo also. fuji npc, nph and porta 160nc all scan quite well. chromes such as e100g, provia and astia scan great too. since you already have the scanner you might want to try different set ups and see if you get better results. <p>

try using silvrfast scanning software with fuji npc and astia and see what happens.

hey bruno, get a hexar af for about 1/6 the prise of the m6/35mm and you'll take even quieter pics with a stellar lens and you'll also have auto focus, multiple exposure, shutter time release, etc. <p>

believe me, you'll love it.

i've never removed film from my holders after exposing. <br>

i have black film holder bags for loaded, unexposed holders and red bags for the exposed holders. never more than one holder out of the bag, then in the camera and streight into the red "exposed" bag. the lab gets the red bags. if for some reason i have negs and chromes loaded, they are also split into different and boldly labeled and color coded bags. <p> when i pick up the film, the lab just hands me the red bag filled with the empty film holders and the developed and sleeved film.

i don't get what the fuss is about. if you want great manual focus lenses, nikon has them. if you want great, fast af primes, nikon has them. if you want great fast af zooms, nikon has them. if you want uncle charlies cheap, slow, wide range zoom nikon and canon have them.

i don't have an n80 to compare my d200 to, but i doo have an old f801s and it has a better viewfinder. the 801 is bigger, brighter and has a split prism so it's no contest. the d200 vf is waaaaaay better than the d70 finder though. it's pretty big, fairly bright and has a focus confermation light in the finder that could certainly be a big help in some situations. <p>

hope this helps

how do you like focusing it on the d200 erick? what is your hit miss ratio? thanks.

my guess, probably used a very large scrim - nothing special.

the floating element is there to improve edge sharpness when used close up. there's a distance scale on the lens so you can manually adjust the floating element. i've never tried to shoot the lens without setting the propper distance for the floating element, so i don't know what would happen - i'm sure that performance would suffer to some extent, but probably nothing major if not used for macro/close up work. as to size, it's not a small lense, definitely bigger (a little less than 2x) than the 110. it's maybe a pound heavier than the 110 too. should be easy to hand hold at 1/125, but i wouldn't want to do a long sesion hand holding it on the rz, that might put me in the hospital : D

<i> pentax 67 lenses are adequate but not spectular </i> <p>

tell that to the commercial photographers that use the pentax. the pentax 67 is a professional camera that has been outdated only because the move to digital. it can produce razor sharp chromes in the right hands. some professions still use them, for example my college

<a href="http://www.studiogundlach.com/index2.html">uwe gundlach</a> .

please take a look at his portfolio and tell me which photos aren't sharp enough for you. <p>

so, now back to the point. The pentax is an slr and it's heavy, you can shoot it hand held but it's a beast of a camera. pentax has some spectacular lenses in it's line up. this is a professional camera system not a walk around or travel cam. <p>

the mamiya is a rangefinder camera. you need to try it out before you can know if you like focusing with it. there are only 4 lenses for this camera and none of them focus close. that meany no macro and no classic tight portrait shots. on the plus side it also produces spectacularly sharp results. it's also light and quiet. <p>

i'd say in conclusion that both of these cameras produce stunningly sharp photos. so choose based on what you need the camera for and how you'll be using it.

nice one vivek.

the 50 and 85??? how many good nikkor lenses in those focal lenghts already? I won't be selling my 85mm 1,4 afd for the planar. why not offer something a little more needed in the nikon line up, like a good 20mm with very low distortion?

thanks mr. schwarz, i'll get back to you on your offer after i've had the demo. <p>

h.c., good idea, never even thought about the sinar forum before, i'll check it out. thanks.

take a look at <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?include=all&user_id=835337">stephan rohner</a> not all hassy, but some anyway.

guess not

did you scan the film yourself? or are you looking at the negs under a loupe? mf film is large and curls easily, if it not held flat when scanning you'll get unsharp results do to the tiny dof of the scanner.

seems like the problem only happens when you severely blow out the highlights (like 5 stops over) at around iso 400 - i'd pitch those pics in the trash anyway. besides you have a warranty if anything happens to wrong.

if you plan on using this lens for paid work, i'd test it thoroughly under different lighting conditions beforehand. most likely it won't have any negative effects, but it "could" have an effect on color rendition and flare resistance. that's something i'd want to be absolutely sure about before using on an assignment.

24mm f1,4 is what i want

i've been using a p2 for a couple years now and will be testing and

getting a demonstration with the sinar f3 and a digital back (emotion

22) at my sinar dealer next week. <p>

anyone have experience with this set up? any opinions, experience or

knowledge on this?

 

I do commercial still life and table top work, so i need good macro

and movement ability. i'm not sure how this is going to work out when

using a short focal length lens (the digital 4,5 45mm would be my 90mm

equivalent) very close. i'm kind of concerned there will be no room to

make adjustments to the front and rear standard in this situation. <p>

my second question mark is focusing and framing with the digi back.

there seems to be a couple different alternatives and i'm wondering

what your opinions are here. there is the live picture software for

focusing on a screen. there's also a sliding back mount for focusing

on the ground glass, then sliding the back into place. another option

would be using a binocular viewer and/or loupe and just hooking up the

back to shoot, like with a film back. i'm not sure how useful the lcd

screen is for judging color, light and sharpness, probably not

accurate enough i would guess. is there another way to view pics on

screen with out the live view software (costs 2000,- extra!), or would

one have to open each pic individually in the sinar capture software?

anyway, i know some of these questions will be answered when i receive

the demo and talk with the rep., but maybe some of you have some

interesting and useful insights. <p>

thanks, kipling

<center><img src=http://static.flickr.com/28/60944182_7b42319cfb.jpg></center>

make sure that your lens is proberly shaded. softboxes have a lot of light spill and if you are using a lens that is prone to flairing and ghosting, the image will look washed out and soft.

OT: <p>

<i> i offer the "Copyright Ownership of Digital Negatives" under the A LA CARTE options </i> <p>

that is interesting jammey. i didn't know that you could actually sell a copywrite. maybe the copywrite laws are different in the states. <br>

in germany it's not possible to sell a copywrite, you can only sell the right to use that which is under copywrite to specified terms and conditions. I don't know how a court would handle it or if it could possibly cause you any problems, but i'd run a check on the copywrite laws in the u.s. just to be on the safe side.

i too would strongly recommend looking a the sinar f line. you can get one used for a song. they are very sturdy and exceptionally well built, pretty light, with precise movement capabilities. you can break one down in less than a minute and easily fit it in a back pack. also, any and every component you can imagine is made by sinar for these cameras and can be had on the used market. bags, bellows, shades, extensions, filter holders, swinging pol-filters, extra shutters, backs, 8x10 conversions, everything.

i'm no nikon lens expert but a lot of the ai-s lenses are close range corrected (crc). this isn't macro but it's a floating lens element that gives you beter results while focusing very closely. the spectacular 28mm 2.8 ai-s focuses down to like 7 inches (!). i'm not sure if the af lenses have this. might want to check this out, the ai-s lenses will be much less expensive than a 17-35 also.

sell it. in fact, sell the lens too and buy a hexar af (35mm) for about $300. you'll be glad you did.