larry_benjamin

A very wise decision Tammy, It sounds like the metals are galled (that squeeking sound etc.)

No tricks, lube or "torque intensifiers" will fix the problem. It is common when you conjoin two materials of equal hardness/qualities.

Stainless steel is notorious for the exact same problem.

Good Luck...... it won't be cheap as the step down ring is shot & the lens barrel would need to be replaced. May i suggest a "tiny dab" of silicone grease for the future. (Dow Corning 111)

Cheers, Larry

I totally agree with Gene M , jun 16, 2004; 09:20 p.m.

Their new equip.service/sales is superb.......however the used equipment dept. is below par in comparison.

Larry

Place the lens upside down on a block of ice with the step down ring only........ touching the ice (not the lens barrel). Wait a minute or two & attempt removal. This will shrink the ring, reduce the tread clearance & possibly assist in the removal. A small drop of penetrating oil on the threads "only" may also help.

If the threads are not crossed there is a possibilty that the two metals (ring & lens barrel) are galled.If that is the case, damage is inevitable !

Good Luck, Larry

When flying to Europe from the States i requested hand inspection of my 120 film. They asked me to go with this guy who took a swab, wiped it over the film (foil on)& put it through an analyser. 2 minutes delay at the max. In the US you have a legal right to request hand inspection. I have requested it several times & never had a problem, they have always been polite & helpful.

I have been asked "trick" questions when my cameras (Rollei TLR's) have been x-ray'd. Is that a "Hassleblad" ??? LOL. It seems the only cameras they have been programmed for are Nikons & Hassy's!

EH !...... They are doing a great job saving the lives of countless hundreds, because of the few BARBARIANS in our midst.

Cheers, Larry

Hi,

The old Rollei prisms will fit the GX fine, however most suffer from separation due to the canada balsam (the glue used to join compound glass components) degrading over the years. You can get one without separation but look to pay + US$400.

Ones with slight separation (normally at the edges) are quite functional. You will find that the old prisms block the LED light meter indicators on the GX but you can still see them (troublesome but usable with bright images,no problems otherwise.)

Some Rolleites shun the prisms as they add heft to a well balanced camera but my feelings are the image correction is a plus.

Viewfinder brightness will be somewhat degraded but usable in all situations other than very low light conditions.

You "could" swing for the modern prism but i find their cost prohibitive.

Cheers, Larry

Hi,

I have been reading about the discussions about Mr. Fleenors prices & turn around times.

Let us not forget this is a free market society........the best can request ( & often get ) the best ! He got his name not by substandard work but with quality work. He is a legend in Rollei circles & rightfully so. There may be some as good.....however they have not achieved the head billing as yet!

Just my 10c worth,

Cheers, Larry

Hi, In a nutshell......those of use who have used/purchased this camera (GX/FX... et al) have absolutely no regrets. The pleasure is not just in the phenomenal results but also the mystique of those notables of greater merit, whom have trod this ground before.

Cheers, Larry

Hi,

I am a proud owner/user of a Rollei FX & a "as new" 1959 Tele Rollei & many others. I am a collector of fine cameras of all types (digital included.)I purchased my FX from Hong Kong for US$1998.00 brand new, 3 years ago with international warrantee.

OK...... how does it compare to the older Rollei's ? The lens is simply superb!! The amount of detail it renders is absolutely stunning,contrast is superb !! So far my gold standard but i haven't "pushed" my other notable lenses to the critical edge yet.

The viewing screen is brighter than the older Rolleis & the Of film TTL flash is definitely a plus.The metering system is not really TTL as it views through the viewing lens but it works........still slow (semi-manual) but more accurate than the old.

How does it fare with the quality of the old ?..........only 20 + more years will tell. How does the lens compare......... i think the modern lens coating definitely gives it an edge ?

Would i spend $3500 for one.......possibly not, as there are some fine cameras out there for that price........eh ! depends if i were rich!

Lots of views on value,practicality etc........I put my money where my mouth is, bought one & love it. Pro camera it is not (slow)......but what it puts on paper more than backs its heritage.

 

Just my 10c worth, however an educated, realistic evaluation from one who actually has owned/s both the old & the new.......not "guesses".

Cheers, Larry

Hi,

I have been reading all of these dilemmas about MF,LF, 35mm & digital (i have all) but i decided to return to the old formats but incorporating the modern........big negative scanned/processed digitally & am having a blast. There is no joy than that of using the old with the new. ( I tell my wife that all the time !)

Cheers, Larry

Thanks Mike,

Yes i do have a mask but i have it removed.

Cheers, Larry

Hi,

The manual is a bit vague, or translation is, or i am not

understanding ? I am only going to use this camera for 6x9 photies

(for now.)

My question is, on the film frame window shutter. On loading it says

to view the first frame (# 1) & then close the shutter. The red flag

indicator will then prevent you from double exposure ( & i assume

correct new frame positioning.) Do i need to open the window shutter

to view for the next/every film number, or does the red flag show that

this has been accomplished ?

Thanking you all in advance, Larry

Hi,

For me, TTL is fine if you want quick shots or are using filters/bellows etc. For accuracy i back up all shots with a flashmeter (Minolta V which is superb.)However that does not solve your dilemma. Other than what you have described, i do not have any other suggestions......sorry.

Cheers, Larry

Thanks Paul, I'm very excited about getting this camera. I took some scenics with my Rollei FX & they were superb!! I'm dying to see what a quality 6x9 will do.

Cheers, Larry

Thank you both for your most excellent input.

Cheers, Larry

Hi,

I have just purchased a camera in "mint" condition (see heading) for

landscapes & basically playing around with. Anyone have any tips,

recommendations, or any information that may apply.

Many Thanks in advance, Larry

I would go with a meter that's simple to use but has the CAPABILITY to offer complexity as YOU advance. Look at the Minolta range they are simple to use & are superb. I have a "Minolta Flashmeter V" which offers simplicity of use with multifunctionality. The standard to which all should compare.

Gossen has an excellent reputation but i have never owned one. Surf the web for comments on Sekonic, if i remember well, they may have calibration issues.

Dont forget, get the best you can afford, as correct exposure is vital.

All the best, Larry

Optics are as good as each other, more or less. However to achieve very fast, accurate focusing the components have had to be made of light (seemingly flimsy) materials to reduce the mass, that the focusing motor has to control/drive. My feeling, is that a manual lens will take more abuse, however that has not been proven. Keep away from those bottom line cheapie lenses. Keep to the top of the line of the brand & you won't go wrong.

Larry

Here is an excellent answer to the problems, why & how.

Larry

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/digitalphotography/learnmore/fixit/sharpening.asp

I work with digital, 35mm, & 2 1/4 square on photoshoots. I am amazed at the results of "all" after scanning/digitization. I am new to this digital thing. However i pray that my clients pick the digitals as they are soooooooooooo much easier process. Work flow is the KEY word here. If you have to move big files (scanned 2 1/4) around (close to 1 gig with sharpening)you need RAM..............lots of RAM.

10+ meg digital RAW is a walk in the park.

BAY111, Try used dept Adorama, B&H photovideo, E-Bay , Koh's cameras.

Expensive in mint condition (i saw one sold for $180.00)& the new "rubber" one is well below par for the price.

Most of these guys work on reputation. If they screw up, their avenue to the west(where the money is)is dead. I deal with them often but always check their credentials. Great deals are to be found for the "not so timid". I got a Rollei FX for $1940.00 brand spankin new with international papers. However,do not deal with Malaysia period!!!

The "ears" were for meter coupling on the older Ft, Ftn & (i think) the F2 meter prisms. Put the lens on & rotate the aperture ring clockwise & anti clockwise to locate the meter pin, Ahh.............those were the days.

I think you will find if you you use the correct Nikon screen recommended for the lens used. You will have little need for aftermarket screens.I had problems with vignetting with my pre ED 50-300 zoom & checked out the chart, finding the only screen that was perfectly compatible & "bingo" what a difference. I can see!!! I can see!!!I now have several screens which when used, optimise low light conditions.

I agree with Mikes comments.

When working on a Pye Unicam atomic absorbsion spectrophotometer (surface coated mirrors abound.) I was instructed to flush using running water. Dish washing liquid (the green stuff [Palmolive]is the best as it leaves little residue) Clean the mirror by pouring a small amount on the surface of the mirror, using a clean wet finger spread in circles (from the inside to the outer edges.) Flush with cold water & allow to air dry. If you water has impurities, do your final flush with distilled water prior to drying. Enjoy

I've had excellent results from Adorama (www.adorama.com)

Larry