peter_chiappini

Did you try dripping some lighter fluid into the cocking mechanism or the place where you set the shutter speed? Just fire it a few times after that and put a few more drops there until it frees up. Electro-clean which is is in an aerosl can and can be found at radioshack sometimes will also do the trick. It might get between the elements, but the front and rear elements should screw off easily; the electro-clean drys pretty quickly. I saved many shutters doing this, including a few rim-set compurs, which I think is on the Retina.

Thank you for the info. -Peter

Hello, I have a Rolleiflex SL35 body that is missing part of the

rewind knob; the part that turns the film has fallen into the back

of the camera and I have no way to get the camera open. I opened

the bottom, but there wasn't any way to open it from the bottom

either. Does anyone know of a way to get the back opened without

removing the top of the camera? Any help would be appreciated. -

Peter

haha, I got the lenses and Dan is right! They do look very sharp and they have a nice coating, but I don't even have an enlarger.

Hello, does anyone know anything about this camera; it kind of looks

like a pax m2, but I think it takes 127 film. It has a coupled

rangefinder and a 65mm f/3.5 well anastigmat lens. Thank you, Peter

I know its not exactly a great camera, but it was 26.00, came with 2 lenses and some 127 film, but the 127 is used and the 135mm f/2.8 Formula 5 lens isn't a great lens, but the 55mm f/1.9 rokkor-x is pretty sharp. I have an SR-7 that works with mirror lock-up; I'm only considering this as one of many back-ups, or part of a collection, but I'd still like to get it squared away.

 

I got the prism out of the other SR-7, but I can't get out the focusing screen; does anybody know how to? thank you, Peter

I also don't know how to take the wole prism out, or the focusing screen for that matter, which I think is attached to the prism, Peter

Hello, I recently purchased a Minolta SRT100 off eBay and the

focusing screen looks like it melted around the sides, and is coming

away from the prism where it melted. I have a banged up Minolta SR-

7 that I was using as parts that has a good focusing screen; would I

be able to take just the screen from the SR-7 and use it on the

SRT100, or would I have to take the whole prism out; if I had to

take out the prism would it even fit, the prism housing looks

different on either camera from the outside. I'd really like to fix

this camera and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you both very much for your help, Peter

Hello, I'm assuming that this is a good lens and will probably cover

a 4x5 negative... It was made by Leitz Canada, but thats all I know

about it; does anyone have the specifics or have any experience with

it? Any info would be appreciated, Peter

Thank you for the information; I passed on this one, it was a whopping $25.00, but another will surface soon.

I have no idea who might carry it in Taiwan, but if somebody does chances are that it would be very expensive as it isn't in high demand as you said. Your best bet would probably be ordering it through bhphotovideo.com; they seem to be the cheapest. It would probably be cheaper than at a photo store, even with the shipping costs included. The cost for one 100 sheet pack of ilford hp-5 is 61.50 and shipping is 31.25; for 10 packs shipping abot $100. You have to pay $100 for a pack of the same film around here, (N.E. USA) so it would probably be at least that in Taiwan, compared to about $70 a pack if you buy 10 of them.

Hello, is anyone familiar with this lens? I am considering

purchasing one for my Pentax SPII, but I don't know much about. Any

info would be appreciated, Peter

Hello, I am a bit of a beginner, especially when it comes to large format photography, hence I usually do a bit of research before purchasing anything. The lens only cost about $30.00 and looked to be in nice condition, was coated and was a zeiss so I thought it would be a sound purchase. I am still considering just splitting the barrel and mounting it to a shutter that already has an aperture. With one of those circular pipe cutters I should be able to do this without damaging the optics... I don't know how accurate I can do this though. If the the distance between the elements was a little bit off I suppose it would matter a great deal. Thank you again for the information everyone, Peter

hello, thank you both for your responses...

If I got a packard shutter could I maybe somehow stick an aperture into the shutter rather than cutting open the lens? Or maybe I can get a large-format camera with a focal plane shutter, mount the lens to some wood, with some glue and duct tape and make my own f-stops with some plastic that I can drill holes into and hold over the lens. Would I be able to hold the smaller circle in front of the lens, or does it have to be behind the front element? I don't know though, a lf camera with a focal plane shutter has got to be pretty expensive. Maybe packard is the way to go. Unless theres a way to front mount it to an existing shutter that has an aperture thing.

Hello, I recently purchased a 300mm f/5.6 s-tessar lens off of eBay;

I don't have it yet, but I know it was a projection lens for some

sort of hasselblad projector and therefore has no aperture, but it

should be a pretty sharp lens even wide open and I want to try and

mount it cheaply. In a previous post, 2 months ago, Douglas

Finlayson had a similar problem and I wanted to see how he made out--

here's his last post:

 

"My latest notion (since giving up on a shutter) is to have SKG cut

the barrel and use Waterhouse stops. I sent them an email asking

about that possibility. Adam's response was that while they haven't

done that with that particular lens before, it seemed doable. He

said they could insert a sleeve in the barrel which robs the lens of

a stop or two, but keeps light from getting around the stop. Another

approach is to cut a large enough slot so that the stop fills the

entire barrel and there's no light leak."

 

A follow-up to your previous post, or if anyone has any ideas, would

be greatly appreciated.

Also if anyone knows the specifics of this lens: what format it

would cover, resolution etc. I would appreciate it.

Hello, thank you for your response. The serial number on the lens is: 697746 and the aperture is from f/4.5 to f/32. -Peter

Hello, does anyone know what type of camera this lens could have

come from? The shutter is marked: "Lic. and Pat. March 31, 1914 and

Dec. 29, 1914." The shutter speed dial is marked ICA and allows for

speeds from 1sec. to 1/200th sec. On another dial you can set it

for "B" or "T" also. Surprisingly the shutter is working great, all

speeds sound accurate and the glass looks flawless. The lens and

shutter are mounted in a 4" x 4" recessed lensboard. Any

information would be greatly appreciated. -Peter

Hello, I am looking for an, at least 4mp, DSLR for about $500, and I

am not sure what cameras would be in this category. Auto-exposure

or auto-focus isn't a concern. I have a lot of 35mm SLR cameras;

does anyone know what type of digital backs are available for around

the same price. If there was a 4mp or higher digital back for a

Pentax Spotmatic available that would in fact be preferable. Any

help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew of a digital SLR camera that

would be compatible with M42 screw mount lenses, either with or

without an adapter. Thank you, Peter

Hello, I bought a LTM lens to M42 body adapter, but it doesn't allow

you to focus on objects farther than a few inches away. I am

assuming that because the distance from the rear element to the film

plane is different on Pentax Spotmatic than with my Canon IVSB that

the lens can't get close enough to the film to focus at infinity.

At first I thought that I had mounted it wrong, but the lens is

securely and snuggly fastened to the camera. Is there a way to make

this adapter work, or is it essentially worthless for normal

photographic use. Does anyone know of a LTM lens/M42 body

combination that would work with this adapter? I suppose it could be

useful as a macro adapter, but it seems unlikely that these would

have been manufactured for that purpose. I also saw schneider

enlarging lens to LTM camera body adapters for sale on eb*y; this

seems ridiculous because all of the schneider enlarging lenses that

I know of are LTM, and the one I have fits perfectly onto my Canon

IVSB.

Hello, I was wondering how these lenses perform compared to some

other ltm lenses. I just purchased a 2 inch. f/3.5 Taylor-Hobson

Ental II lens and I am considering a 3.25 inch f/4 Taylor-Hobson

Ental II lens; both cost about 20$. Any info would be appreciated

thank you, Peter

There's a book at my local Border's book shop titled voyeurism. Its a compilation of photographs that deal with the subject of Voyeurism in one way or another. In some the photographer photographs a voyeur: there are several of men looking up women's skirts and stuff like that. In others the photographer is the voyeur; I think most of them were posed and the subjects probably knew they were being photographed, but in some of the more interesting photos it appears as if the subjects were unaware of the photographers presence. This book may be of interest to you if you haven't already come across it.

Does anyone know where I could get a replacement mirror? -Peter

Hello, it is actually desilvering of the mirror- but it doesn't seem to affect the view too much throught the focusing screen and focusing is still easy. Thank you all for the info.