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mikael1

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Posts posted by mikael1

    I couldn't care less about refresh rates. Give me relevant LCD reviews!

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I've been trying to find monitor (mainly LCD) reviews for

    photographers but keep ending up at pcworld.com with tests telling me

    this and that monitor is the best because the refresh rate is blazing

    12ms! As many other photographers I couldn't care less. I'm looking

    for an acceptable LCD in the 800-900 USD price range. I know that CRT

    probably gives me more for the money, but my eyes can't stand CRT no

    more. First I was looking at the ViewSonic line with VP912 & VP191.

    Now I've looked into the Eizo FlexScan L768 which is exactly in the

    price range I've considered. There is also the L795K & L788. You get

    me, it's a jungle out there. I need some guidance. Either through

    people here on photo.net or from any magazines that might publish LCD

    reviews meant for non-gamers. Has anybody tried the L768, if so, how

    was it?

     

    Any help would be appreciated right now, I feel lost.

    CCD damage or failure symptoms?

    in Mirrorless Digital Cameras

    Posted

    <I>I think you should print it, charge outrageous amounts for limited edition 20x30 prints and be very secretive about technique. Also talk about your "vision" with out being very specific. Wear all black. You'll most likely gain a following.</I><BR><BR>

    Haha...Actually, that was my first thought too :) So, Anton. Look at these pictures http://www.ansenseale.com/oldersearch.cfm , get yourself a sleak flash based website and realize that you were actually quite lucky when you got that defect CCD.

    I should be assigning, shouldn't I?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    Thank you all for the answers... This actually leads me to something else :)

     

    Yup, the ColorQuartet software allows an input profile, but I'm not sure my teacher likes me fiddling around with his stuff (I'm at a school).

     

    Colorshifts isn't a problem, these are B&W negatives & the only "color correction" to be done is desaturating the image. Will assigning the ProPhoto RGB workspace still be a problem?

     

    I figured I'd go for RGB for the scanning of B&W negs as I've seen no recommendation of a grayscale profile (although dotgain 20% seems common) like Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB for RGB. Seems like in a grayscale workflow the work space is determined by what you output the data to (dotgain) while working in in RGB the workspace is independent of the output (Prophoto RGB or Adobe RGB etc). So, settling on a grayscale profile will also optimize the file for one specific output? Also, as the images most likely are gonna go through some sort of toning (through HSB or curves) they will have to be converted into a RGB space later, which would be a lossy process, right? The only backside would be the much larger size of the files. But hey, I can live with it.

     

    Any ideas?

    I should be assigning, shouldn't I?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I'm pretty sure I'm on the right track here, but I just want to make

    sure I'm doing the right thing as I wont have the chance to drumscan

    them again. I've scanned dozens of old negs on a ScanMate 5000 into 16

    bit RGB files. The scanner has no device profile and the software

    could not assign workspace profiles in 16-bit (weird limitation).

     

    Now I'm about to open the untagged raw scans in Photoshop and as there

    were no profiles attached during scanning I should be _assigning_ a

    workspace I've settled on when Photoshop asks, shouldn't I?

     

    After assigning I will do inversion and and color correction and then

    save the file.

     

    Sounds reasonable?

     

    Thanks in advance...

    Which target for Gretag Spectrolino/Spectroscan & Epson 2100?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    The color management teacher at my school has offered to make me (&

    teach me how to make) a custom ICC profile for my Epson 2100 with our

    Gretag Macbeth Spectrolino/SpectroScan (

    http://www.gretagmacbeth.com/index/products/products_color-measurement/products_chart-readers/products_spectroscan.htm

    ). The problem is, he normally works with profiling large offset

    printers and the likes & doesn't seem to know much about Epson

    printers or RGB workflows. He recommended the ECI 2002 chart, but it

    seems to be available only in CMYK at

    http://www.eci.org/eci/en/060_downloads.php . We will be using the

    ProfileMaker suite for the making of the ICC profile.

     

    I'm not sure about the workflow within the program & he told us we

    would make a CMYK profile from within the program (which doesn't seem

    right, the Epson needs an rgb image, right?). Is there anything I

    could tell him to get him on the right track (if he isn't already)?

    What procedure do you recommend from within the ProfileMaker suite &

    what target is best suited for our task?

     

    Your expertice would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks in advance!

     

    PS Sorry if my english is bad, it's not my native tongue DS

    Using an ICC profile to remove the negatives orange mask

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    The "Color Quartet" scanning software for the drum scanner has

    no color negative "profiles" (we're not talking ICC profiles here).

    Even if there was a canned profile for Portra NC160 there should

    be many other factors that affects the output. What chemicals

    have been used, the exposure, film batch etc etc. Wouldn't it be

    better to build a custom profile for my needs? I actually found

    some information on profiling negative films with the inCamera

    plugin (which I mentioned in my first post) in a guide on the

    website . If I understand things right this seems to work as I

    thought, correct me if I'm wrong...

    <BR><BR>

    "Note on scanning color negative film: There are certain

    situations (for example, school portrait photography) where

    profiling can be brought to bear on an "untouchable" area of

    color management: color negative film. If you shoot a frame

    containing either of the ColorChecker charts, followed by your

    "normal" images, the processed film can be scanned by a color

    negative film scanner, producing positive RGB digital images.

    You may then build a "digital camera" profile from the image of

    the ColorChecker, and apply this profile to all other images shot

    at that same time."

    <BR><BR>

    The info is taken from here:

    http://www.picto.com/UserGuides/inCamera31/AboutCharts.html

    Using an ICC profile to remove the negatives orange mask

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    Not shure in which category to post this, move it if you feel like it

    belongs somewhere special...

     

    Some background info: I've just started working on a photo project

    shooting 120 film on a Mamiya 67 (Portra NC 160). All pictures are

    shot in the same color temperature. The images need to be processed in

    Photoshop before being printed large on a Lambda printer. I have a

    access to a ScanMate 5000 drumscanner and I'm going to scan the negs

    with it.

    <BR><BR>

    The problem is, as we all know, the orange mask of the negative film.

    I've read of various ways to remove this (often in quite ineffective

    ways). The scanner software has no type of neg film profiles.

    <BR><BR>

    I was thinking that one might be able to make a ICC profile for the

    plain inverted negative by shooting a target and using a digital

    camera ICC profiling software (like this one:

    http://www.picto.com/incamera/incameradetailsnew.htm ).

    <BR><BR>

    Would this be a possible and good way of solving the problem? I've

    never made any profiles myself so I can't know what the result would

    be like.

    <BR><BR>

    I'm thinking a workflow similar to this:

    <BR>

    1. Scan the neg with the shot test target to 16-bit RGB and open in

    photoshop without assigning any workspace profile.<BR>

    2. Invert the image to positive and start the digital camera ICC

    profiling plugin to make a profile.<BR>

    3. Scan an actual neg for printing later without applying any profile

    in the scanner software.<BR>

    4. Open photoshop and invert the image and then convert to the profile

    earlier made.

     

    <BR><BR><BR>

     

    Any type of feedback would be very, very appreciated.

    Bulb mode with Mamiya RZ67 Pro II not possible?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I borrowed the above mentioned camera to do some night photo.

    Yesterday I was out in the dark and was all set for my first exposure.

    After exposing ~ one minute in bulb mode the camera started to beep

    loud and closed the shutter. First i thought it was the batteries and

    changed them, but no luck. I'd be really happy if anybody could help!

    Bleaching the film base

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I do my own drum scans (Scanmate 5000) of Tri-X (souped in Diafine) and I can't say I'm too content (also I do APX 100). For lineart and stuff that should basically only contain black and white I'm sure it's not a big problem to crank up the contrast. Other pictures though... Seems to have something to do with the compression of the tonal range. Everything seems to go in a range from black to gray, to gray, a bit bit darker gray. But the highlights are so well controlled they're not there (and no, the levels and curves are not always a cure & trust me I think I know these tools). I know, Diafine isn't probably the best developer for scanning as it is known to be very good at blocking high-lights.

    <BR><BR>

    Well, I'm on another topic now. :) Have to thank you all for the info you've provided me with! I may try some of the films tips posted here.

    Bleaching the film base

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Looks really interesting! Thanks! The problem is I'm not situated in the US, the toll fees I have to pay in Sweden are horrible. Add to that the shipping.

    <BR><BR>

    This whole thing is quite experimental and it doesn't have to produce top notch results (ie. fine grain). If anyone has a simpler sollution, please drop a line!

    Bleaching the film base

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Is there a way to (at least partially) bleach the film base? I'm

    experimenting with photographing patterns, architecture with very high

    contrast. I'm developing Tri-X in Neutol paper developer to get really

    high contrast and would like to drumscan the negs. Having almost only

    B&W negs would be preferable in the scanning process, so I'm

    interested in finding a way to bleach the film base witout removing

    the emulsion. Anybody had any success? I've had the impression that

    aerial B&W film is almost transparent. Is this right?

    Enclosed reader for CompactFlash

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I have a 1 GB compact flash microdrive and would love to use it to

    transport files from work to home. I'd like to have an adapter that

    plugs directly into the port witout a cord. It should hide the whole

    card within itself and be completely closed like the Sandisk Cruzer or

    Lexar Jumpdrive shown here:

    <BR><BR>

    <IMG SRC="http://www.fotografie.ch/img/produkte/BKD-SA-SDC-256.jpg"><BR>

    <IMG SRC="http://zebramedia.biz/images/jumpdrivetrio.gif">

    <BR><BR>

    The sandisk cruzer and the jumpdrive looks perfect but only accepts SD

    cards. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

    Other Diafine like developers?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    There's a bunch of recepies for old two-bath developers circulating the internet. There's one I'd really like to try out if I ever get my hands on the chemicals. High acutance two bath D-76. The formula is here:<BR>

    http://www.pauck.de/archive/mailinglist/infrared/mhonarc/msg11647.html

    <br>Variations of the Stoeckler two bath developer seem to be popular, read about it here: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/twobath/<BR>

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