mikael1
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Posts posted by mikael1
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Yup, I've double checked the refresh rate, it's at 85. Formac seems really nice, but I can't find a reseller here in Sweden. Seems pretty restricted to the american market, I may be wrong.
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<I>Out of curiosity, why don't you like CRTs?</I>
<BR><BR>
I've nothing against CRTs (I'm sitting at a Barco CID 421 right now) except for the fact that my eyes get tired on them alot faster than with the Eizo ColorEdge CG21 & the other LCDs I've tried. Thanks for the answers, keep 'em coming! :)
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I've been trying to find monitor (mainly LCD) reviews for
photographers but keep ending up at pcworld.com with tests telling me
this and that monitor is the best because the refresh rate is blazing
12ms! As many other photographers I couldn't care less. I'm looking
for an acceptable LCD in the 800-900 USD price range. I know that CRT
probably gives me more for the money, but my eyes can't stand CRT no
more. First I was looking at the ViewSonic line with VP912 & VP191.
Now I've looked into the Eizo FlexScan L768 which is exactly in the
price range I've considered. There is also the L795K & L788. You get
me, it's a jungle out there. I need some guidance. Either through
people here on photo.net or from any magazines that might publish LCD
reviews meant for non-gamers. Has anybody tried the L768, if so, how
was it?
Any help would be appreciated right now, I feel lost.
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<I>I think you should print it, charge outrageous amounts for limited edition 20x30 prints and be very secretive about technique. Also talk about your "vision" with out being very specific. Wear all black. You'll most likely gain a following.</I><BR><BR>
Haha...Actually, that was my first thought too :) So, Anton. Look at these pictures http://www.ansenseale.com/oldersearch.cfm , get yourself a sleak flash based website and realize that you were actually quite lucky when you got that defect CCD.
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Thank you all for the answers... This actually leads me to something else :)
Yup, the ColorQuartet software allows an input profile, but I'm not sure my teacher likes me fiddling around with his stuff (I'm at a school).
Colorshifts isn't a problem, these are B&W negatives & the only "color correction" to be done is desaturating the image. Will assigning the ProPhoto RGB workspace still be a problem?
I figured I'd go for RGB for the scanning of B&W negs as I've seen no recommendation of a grayscale profile (although dotgain 20% seems common) like Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB for RGB. Seems like in a grayscale workflow the work space is determined by what you output the data to (dotgain) while working in in RGB the workspace is independent of the output (Prophoto RGB or Adobe RGB etc). So, settling on a grayscale profile will also optimize the file for one specific output? Also, as the images most likely are gonna go through some sort of toning (through HSB or curves) they will have to be converted into a RGB space later, which would be a lossy process, right? The only backside would be the much larger size of the files. But hey, I can live with it.
Any ideas?
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I'm pretty sure I'm on the right track here, but I just want to make
sure I'm doing the right thing as I wont have the chance to drumscan
them again. I've scanned dozens of old negs on a ScanMate 5000 into 16
bit RGB files. The scanner has no device profile and the software
could not assign workspace profiles in 16-bit (weird limitation).
Now I'm about to open the untagged raw scans in Photoshop and as there
were no profiles attached during scanning I should be _assigning_ a
workspace I've settled on when Photoshop asks, shouldn't I?
After assigning I will do inversion and and color correction and then
save the file.
Sounds reasonable?
Thanks in advance...
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This technique is the answer to your question. On the bonus side, won't cost you anything extra (if you have Photoshop).
http://www.peimag.com/pdf/pei01/pei0101/heidemannpei0101.pdf
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The color management teacher at my school has offered to make me (&
teach me how to make) a custom ICC profile for my Epson 2100 with our
Gretag Macbeth Spectrolino/SpectroScan (
). The problem is, he normally works with profiling large offset
printers and the likes & doesn't seem to know much about Epson
printers or RGB workflows. He recommended the ECI 2002 chart, but it
seems to be available only in CMYK at
http://www.eci.org/eci/en/060_downloads.php . We will be using the
ProfileMaker suite for the making of the ICC profile.
I'm not sure about the workflow within the program & he told us we
would make a CMYK profile from within the program (which doesn't seem
right, the Epson needs an rgb image, right?). Is there anything I
could tell him to get him on the right track (if he isn't already)?
What procedure do you recommend from within the ProfileMaker suite &
what target is best suited for our task?
Your expertice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
PS Sorry if my english is bad, it's not my native tongue DS
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OK. I was afraid first that glossy paper might cause newton rings. But it was just a guess. I've bought some Ilford Multigrade IV RC Pearl and will try that out. I'll try glossy later. Thanks alot for the help.
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I need a good paper for scanning. What surface is the best? Lustre,
Glossy, Chrystal? I need an RC paper that is VC. Preferably Ilford (I
can easily obtain it), but anything else goes too.
Also, which of the Kodak RA-4 papers are best for scanning?
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Thank you so much, helped me out alot....
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It?s a bit urgent, I?m in Berlin right now looking for good photo
store B&H style. If anybody knows about one i?d be more than happy to
hear from you...
Thanks in advance...
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The "Color Quartet" scanning software for the drum scanner has
no color negative "profiles" (we're not talking ICC profiles here).
Even if there was a canned profile for Portra NC160 there should
be many other factors that affects the output. What chemicals
have been used, the exposure, film batch etc etc. Wouldn't it be
better to build a custom profile for my needs? I actually found
some information on profiling negative films with the inCamera
plugin (which I mentioned in my first post) in a guide on the
website . If I understand things right this seems to work as I
thought, correct me if I'm wrong...
<BR><BR>
"Note on scanning color negative film: There are certain
situations (for example, school portrait photography) where
profiling can be brought to bear on an "untouchable" area of
color management: color negative film. If you shoot a frame
containing either of the ColorChecker charts, followed by your
"normal" images, the processed film can be scanned by a color
negative film scanner, producing positive RGB digital images.
You may then build a "digital camera" profile from the image of
the ColorChecker, and apply this profile to all other images shot
at that same time."
<BR><BR>
The info is taken from here:
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Not shure in which category to post this, move it if you feel like it
belongs somewhere special...
Some background info: I've just started working on a photo project
shooting 120 film on a Mamiya 67 (Portra NC 160). All pictures are
shot in the same color temperature. The images need to be processed in
Photoshop before being printed large on a Lambda printer. I have a
access to a ScanMate 5000 drumscanner and I'm going to scan the negs
with it.
<BR><BR>
The problem is, as we all know, the orange mask of the negative film.
I've read of various ways to remove this (often in quite ineffective
ways). The scanner software has no type of neg film profiles.
<BR><BR>
I was thinking that one might be able to make a ICC profile for the
plain inverted negative by shooting a target and using a digital
camera ICC profiling software (like this one:
http://www.picto.com/incamera/incameradetailsnew.htm ).
<BR><BR>
Would this be a possible and good way of solving the problem? I've
never made any profiles myself so I can't know what the result would
be like.
<BR><BR>
I'm thinking a workflow similar to this:
<BR>
1. Scan the neg with the shot test target to 16-bit RGB and open in
photoshop without assigning any workspace profile.<BR>
2. Invert the image to positive and start the digital camera ICC
profiling plugin to make a profile.<BR>
3. Scan an actual neg for printing later without applying any profile
in the scanner software.<BR>
4. Open photoshop and invert the image and then convert to the profile
earlier made.
<BR><BR><BR>
Any type of feedback would be very, very appreciated.
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Found it after searching a bit more :) But thanks, sure did work, thanks alot again.
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Thanks for the answer! So i guess the batteries will pretty quickly drain in T mode? Anyways, I can't find a T mode on the shutter speed dial. Except from 400 - 8 there's also B, RBL & AEF. Nothing more, nothing less.
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I borrowed the above mentioned camera to do some night photo.
Yesterday I was out in the dark and was all set for my first exposure.
After exposing ~ one minute in bulb mode the camera started to beep
loud and closed the shutter. First i thought it was the batteries and
changed them, but no luck. I'd be really happy if anybody could help!
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I do my own drum scans (Scanmate 5000) of Tri-X (souped in Diafine) and I can't say I'm too content (also I do APX 100). For lineart and stuff that should basically only contain black and white I'm sure it's not a big problem to crank up the contrast. Other pictures though... Seems to have something to do with the compression of the tonal range. Everything seems to go in a range from black to gray, to gray, a bit bit darker gray. But the highlights are so well controlled they're not there (and no, the levels and curves are not always a cure & trust me I think I know these tools). I know, Diafine isn't probably the best developer for scanning as it is known to be very good at blocking high-lights.
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Well, I'm on another topic now. :) Have to thank you all for the info you've provided me with! I may try some of the films tips posted here.
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Looks really interesting! Thanks! The problem is I'm not situated in the US, the toll fees I have to pay in Sweden are horrible. Add to that the shipping.
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This whole thing is quite experimental and it doesn't have to produce top notch results (ie. fine grain). If anyone has a simpler sollution, please drop a line!
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Is there a way to (at least partially) bleach the film base? I'm
experimenting with photographing patterns, architecture with very high
contrast. I'm developing Tri-X in Neutol paper developer to get really
high contrast and would like to drumscan the negs. Having almost only
B&W negs would be preferable in the scanning process, so I'm
interested in finding a way to bleach the film base witout removing
the emulsion. Anybody had any success? I've had the impression that
aerial B&W film is almost transparent. Is this right?
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This might be something:<BR>
http://www.dustin.se/default.asp?ORIGIN=shopping/ProductDetail.asp?PID=5010060076
<BR>
If anybody finds any more readers that fits the criteria, keep the 'em coming.<BR>
It's good if it's hidden because i'll be carrying it aroundin my bag. I'm not really comfortable doing that if totally open.
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I have a 1 GB compact flash microdrive and would love to use it to
transport files from work to home. I'd like to have an adapter that
plugs directly into the port witout a cord. It should hide the whole
card within itself and be completely closed like the Sandisk Cruzer or
Lexar Jumpdrive shown here:
<BR><BR>
<IMG SRC="http://www.fotografie.ch/img/produkte/BKD-SA-SDC-256.jpg"><BR>
<IMG SRC="http://zebramedia.biz/images/jumpdrivetrio.gif">
<BR><BR>
The sandisk cruzer and the jumpdrive looks perfect but only accepts SD
cards. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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There's a bunch of recepies for old two-bath developers circulating the internet. There's one I'd really like to try out if I ever get my hands on the chemicals. High acutance two bath D-76. The formula is here:<BR>
http://www.pauck.de/archive/mailinglist/infrared/mhonarc/msg11647.html
<br>Variations of the Stoeckler two bath developer seem to be popular, read about it here: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/twobath/<BR>
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Please post a follow-up on this if you try it, I'm also a bit interested.
Genuine Fractals
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted