stephen sullivan

<p>Kodak's E100VS with a UV filter on the end of your lens.</p>

<p>After that, (Kodachrome 25 / Kodachrome 64, Agfa RSX II 50 [good luck on finding], then Fuji's Provia 100F, Fuji's Velvia 100, then Kodak's Ektar 100 and finally Kodak's 160VS</p>

<p>Or forget film and buy yourself a Canon EOS 5D Mk II. Maybe wait until February 2010 and they'll be a 5D Mk III</p>

<p>THERE IS SO MUCH MORE DO WITH DIGITAL ProPhoto (color space) than some minimum wave employee who thinks he/she has hit pay-dirt under Obama's Green Job's Employment Programs, that will be able to convince you that you're receiving something greater than what can be delivered by an Epson Printer at tenths of the costs. That is minus taxes.</p>

<p>DUMP ALL FILM AND GO DIGITAL.</p>

<p>THERE IS SO MUCH MORE TO DO IN LIFE THAN FIX THE IMPERFECTIONS OF FILM: Spot, Dust, Remove Scratch, fix color Temp. under exposure - over exposure, etc.</p>

<p>For C-41 & E-6</p>

<p>Panda Photographic Lab - 533 Warren Avenue N - Seattle, WA 98109-4527 \ (425) - 285-7091</p>

<p>AD, suggestion. Post your question under <strong>B&W </strong>- Film and Processing Forum.</p>

<p>Scott _____, John-Paul, Lynn Jones or Lex will be able to provide some great tips for this film.</p>

<p>I've shot it before in 35mm. IMO works great with Rodinal 1:25 to 1:100 and D-76 stock & 1:1. Not so great with Xtol.</p>

<p>NO! For the $$$ the 24~105 has to much barrell distortion. Wait for an update on the lens.</p>

<p>If you go with the 5D or 7D pair with 17~40 f/4L USM and the 70~200 2.8L or f/4L (USM IS) along with an EF 50 f/1.4 USM.</p>

<p>I have used of Hahnemuhle Fine Art Pearl and Fine Art Baryta with my Epson R2400. Both are wonderful papers. I prefer to use Fine Art Baryta for B&W printed images. And, if used I'd prefer to use Fine Art Pearl to print color.</p>

<p>But for printing color images on Baryta papers, I prefer Ilford's Gold Fibre Silk.</p>

<p>Ilford, if you're listening, please offer this paper in 11x17.</p>

<p>No, but I did have close to the opposite happen. During the winter months, when it would start to get below 32F the zoom barrel and AF motor would start to get stiff to turn. I sent my lens to Canon and the cleaned, lubed and checked for the auto focus. Next winter, perfect.</p>

<p>As for a cost to fix your lens? (Pomona) Sounds like you're in southern California, I'd suggest that you walk into the Irvine, CA Canon Repair center. Tell them your story and ask, "Is is possible that the barrel was to big for the front elements? Or were the elements to small for the barrel. Either way, that shouldn't of happened.</p>

<p>Other Costs to factor in. Lets just use round numbers and I'll use A&I's price list since they publish there prices on the www. http://aandi.com/fiber.html and http://aandi.com/fp.html</p>

<p>F<strong>or the record this is not a slam on A&I or any other printing house. I'm just looking at costs. A&I I'm glad that you're there for Film, Processing, Printing, Digital needs and any other service that you offer.</strong></p>

<p>B&W Processing with a Proof Sheet is $ 15.00. One 16x20 Print on Ilford MGG is $ 90.00. Factor in Los Angeles sales tax @ 9.5% and you come up with $ 9.98 for a Grand Total of $ 114.98</p>

<p>So the fact that you found Plus-X & Tri-X for .15 cents per frame really offsets and justifies shooting film.</p>

<p>VS</p>

<p>Canon EOS 5D (already payed for) & Epson R2400 (already payed for) and Ilford Gold Fibre Silk 13x19 through Calumet Photo $ 37.99 for 10 sheet at a cost of $3.799 per sheet.</p>

<p>The ink to lay down from an R2400 onto 13x19 sheet of paper, somebody tell me. I bet it doesn't top $ 7.00 for per sheet that is printed.</p>

<p>That's how I did the math.</p>

<p>I have the Nikon Super Coolscan 5000ED. No problem scanning Kodak TMX, TMY, TMZ, Plus-X or Tri-X; PKR or E100G/GX/VS</p>

<p>As for thickness, I have no problem scanning Efke 25. Sounds like a scanner problem or a the SA-21.</p>

<p>Suggestion: Turn the computer off and Re-seat all of your connections: SA-21 to Scanner, Cable to Scanner and Cable from Scanner to Computer.</p>

<p>Unless I hear different, looks like I solved my problem by trial an error.</p>

<p>Nikon Super Coolscan 5000ED and scanning B&W C-41. Kodak T400CN</p>

<p>Nikon Settings - Neg (Color) - Calibrated RGB - ICE On - USM 21% 10% 3%</p>

<p>PS CS4 Set Your Cropping, dust and spot (anything that ICE Missed) and do Auto Contrast, Auto Tone and Auto Color.</p>

<p>I got pretty close to what Photo Impact printed for me 6 years ago on Kodak Metallic Paper.</p><div></div>

<p>Charles,</p>

<p>That's where I just was. My best hope was on page 31 & 46. It didn't answer my question : - (</p>

<p>I have a Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED and I can't find the instruction manual (.pdf) on my computer.</p>

<p>Does anybody know which setting I choose if I want to scan Kodak's T400CN?</p>

<p>Settings</p>

<p>Neg (Color) or Neg (Mono) for Kodak T400CN</p>

<p>Calibrated RGB or Grayscale for Kodak T400CN</p>

<p>ICE - ON</p>

<p>Thank you,</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Panda Photographic Lab by Key Arena</p>

<p>533 Warren Avenue North, Seattle, WA 98109</p>

<p>206-285-7091</p>

<p>Same image with just a crop of L.G. Tower. Remember this was focused on the subjects on the bottom of the image in from the prior post.</p>

<p>I'd call that very poor performance on the EF 24~105 f/4L USM IS.</p><div></div>

<p>5D & EF 85mm f/1.8 USM focus on subjects at the bottom of the screen.</p><div></div>

<p>Same position and crop: 24~105 @ 50mm. My EF 17~40 f/4L USM {from 24 to 40mm}, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM and EF 85mm f/1.8 USM blows away the EF 24~105 f/4L USM IS.</p>

<p>Again, I hope that what I shot with, was just a poor copy.</p><div></div>

<p>Crop on L.G. Tower.</p><div></div>

<p>Back to the Previous Day. 5D & EF 24~105 f/4L USM IS mounted on a tripod with the IS in the OFF position.</p><div></div>

<p>The Next Day with Kodak TMY 2 in Xtol Stock</p><div></div>

<p>To answer your question EF 24~70 2.8L USM</p>

<p>After so much rave about the EF 24~105 f/4L USM IS I decided to rent the lens for the weekend from- Anonymous Vender in Los Angeles. I hope that the lens I rented was just a bum copy. But I don't think so.</p>

<p>1. Distortion from 24mm to 50mm IMO was unacceptable.</p>

<p>2. CA performance for an L Series lens was also unacceptable.</p>

<p>3. Sharpness or lack there was only marginal. Even when mounted on a tripod, yes IS was in the off position.</p>

<p>4. The only thing that I could say positively about the lens was it has wonderful contrast.</p>

<p>From the 24mm to 40mm stand point, your better off buying the EF 17~40 f/4L USM and keeping a 50mm 1.4 and an 85mm 1.8 in your camera bag with you.</p><div></div>

<p>Update: Fixed</p>

<p>I want to give a great round of applause to COMPUTRONICS, Kirkland, WA</p>

<p>They were able to unclog the heads and return my R2400 to me in under 48 hours. I would highly recommend them and I would use again if something else should arise in the future.</p>

<p>A quick scan at 1200 dpi and saved for the web.</p>

<p>EOS 1 & EF 135 SF 2.8 with a B+W 010</p><div></div>

<p>Approx paper count since I've purchased the printer.</p>

<p>8.5 x 11 = 400 Sheets \ 11 x 14 = 100 Sheets</p>

<p>11 x 17 = 350 Sheets \ 13 x 19 = 50 Sheets</p>

<p>8.5 x 11 Hammermill Ink Jet Paper = 500 Sheets</p>

<p>Does anybody know if these printers require any routine maintenance? Anybody with else with this problem?</p>

<p>Yes, I only use Epson Inks for the Epson R2400. The inks that I have are set to expire in 2010 / 2011. The current batch of inks have been in the printer since the past 10 days to today. Some inks where purchased from Glazers of Seattle and other have been purchased from Calumet Photo.</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>I've been reading prior posts without much luck.</p>

<p>I've owned an Epson R2400 for a few years now and this week I need to perform the Auto Head Cleaning very often. It's not just one color per-se, it could be LC and M this afternoon and by tonight it could be C, LK and LM. <em>2 to 3 multi passes to clean each time.</em></p>

<p>I've reached the point that this is far more than the usual for my R2400 and now I'm wasting Time, Paper and Ink.</p>

<p>Question: Has this happened to you and if you had to send it in for servicing, what where the findings?</p>

<p>Thank you,</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>The filter worked so well with my 5D in B&W mode, I thought that I'd try it with my EOS 1.</p>

<p>Kodak's T-MAX 400 (TMY 2) with a B+W Cir-PL and developed in X-TOL.</p>