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jon_martin2

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Posts posted by jon_martin2

  1. Hi,

     

    I've shopped around SF for camera equipment a little. I picked up my FM there a couple years back. Visit Adolph Gasser's (http://www.gassers.com/). They have plenty of new and used equipment (if you ask in advance, they have just about everything . . . even really rare stuff). It's a pro and am shop, so they'll have knowledgable staff. You may even be able to rent a 50mm f1.8 from them before you buy (just to try it out). I'm sure they could arrange something.

     

    Gasser's, yeah, they're downtown, so they may be close to where you're staying . . . and Ansel Adams used to get his stuff exclusively from Gassers. I trust his judgement. Oh, and I'm not in any way affiliated with the store, haha.

     

    Have a good one,

     

     

     

    Jon

  2. Yeah,

     

    Work with a manual setup. I agree with an F3HP, or FE, or FE2, but an F3HP might be best (in my mind). Buy a decent manual body in good shape, buy a lens to play with for awhile, then wait for "the feeling:" gee I wish I had a wide angle (or whatever), then I would be able to do such and such. Or I need such X lens to take this picture of my buddy, etc. I own these lenses, and have been happy with them to learn from, and to take pictures . . .

     

    24mm f2.8 AIS

    50mm f1.4 AI'd

    105mm f2.5 AI

     

    Some guys really like the two lens setup: a 35mm and an 85mm. Just two fixed focal length lenses, allowing you to go comfortably wide and long. However, this setup by passes owning a normal lens (which I like) and you don't really commit to a WIDE or LONG lens. Though there are times I wished I had an 85mm or 35mm, I support the three lens setup I have now. Maybe I'll sport the two lenses with a Leica M (when I can afford it, haha). Have you seen how much those cost?!!

     

    I shoot an FM and love it, but I have thought about getting into an F3HP. I bought the FM when F3's were still out of my price range, but they have really come down!

     

    If you don't mind holding off a little you can wait for the new Zeiss ZF lenses to come out for your Nikon. I'm thinking of getting into a 50mm f1.4 if they aren't prohibitively expensive. I think you would be impressed with the build quality, handling, and optical performance of the Zeiss lenses (I've been impressed with my medium format lenses).

     

    Enjoy your photography, move with it if you want to, . . . it helps me.

     

    -Jon

  3. Yeah,

     

    I ordered some Rollei Pan ISO 25 (120 roll) through B&H, but I haven't received it yet. It was just over 5$ a roll. A little steep, but I don't mind trying an ISO 25 medium format film put out by Rolleiflex (high standards). There are some novel design characteristics to the film also, so . . . I hope it works out!

     

    -Jon

  4. Hi David,

     

    Congradulations on the new RB! I like Fuji a lot too. Try using a slower film: ISO 100 or so. Finer grain should give you freedom to enlarge while retaining good detail.

     

    As a general purpose film, I like Fuji Reala a lot. Try it! I think you'll be impressed. Beautiful color.

     

    A short while ago, I was shopping for a handheld meter. I decided on the Sekonic L-308 Flashmate. I picked it up in bargain condition from KEH for a fair price. It's light weight, easy to use, and accurate. No spot metering though.

     

    Enjoy your photography,

     

     

     

    Jon

  5. B&H sells rolls for $5.49 a piece. It's pretty high, but I was buying a lot of other film at the time and thought what the hey (shopping hungry, or so to speak). The hitch is that B&H orders when you order; I don't think they keep a regular stock of the stuff.

     

    -Jon

  6. Yeah,

     

    You can order it through B&H (special order). I ordered a couple of rolls (120). I haven't seen much discussion on photo.net. I was hoping for a head start on developing. I've heard people suggest it's like Efke (sp?) or Maco 25. Do you guys have regiments for developing these films using HC-110 or Rodinal?

     

    -Jon

  7. I ordered some Rollei Pan 25 recently. I haven't used it before, and

    was hoping for suggestions in developing. I use HC-110 and Rodinal

    usually, so suggestions using these developers would be greatly

    appreciated. So, what do you guys think of this film? Alternatives

    you prefer (for slow speed film)?

     

    Thanks,

     

     

     

    Jon

  8. Hmmm,

     

    I would second the purchase of a normal lens: a 50mm f1.4 or f1.8. They're nice lenses, and cheap. I think it's good to start with a versatile lens like a normal, then grow into other focal lengths as needed.

     

    If you don't mind spending some more bucks (just over $400 or so) you could hold out a few weeks and buy one of the new Zeiss lenses soon to be released for the Nikon F-mount. There will be a Planar 50mm f1.4 released in February. I own Zeiss lenses, and they are awesome! Beautiful color, sharpness, build quality, handling, etc., etc. They say these new lenses are designed to work with Nikon digital bodies too. Similar to the lenses sported on the Contax bodies, but with "new improvements." Here's a link, if you're interested:

     

    http://www.zeiss.de/C12567A8003B58B9/?Open

     

    Either way, I wish you well with your new Nikon.

     

    -Jon

  9. The present setup is pretty basic. I process B&W film, and produce prints with a pretty simple enlarger. I'd like to get into color enlargements a little, but I'm not sure I'd like to do much color film processing.

     

    As cameras go, I use a Nikon and/or a Hasselblad. I'm really just investigating cibachrome/ilfochromes. Thinking about considerations, trying to visiualize the process, etc. So . . . I could see what to anticipate if I went that direction; an early glimpse, if you will. As far as originals go, well . . . that's subjective, right?

     

    Thanks again for your comments.

  10. Hi,

     

    I'm just starting to investigate this process. Generally speaking,

    are most pro color labs capable of producing cibachrome prints? Or is

    it something one must do themselves?

     

    I would also be interested in any comments or opinions anyone has

    about cibachromes.

     

    Thanks much,

     

     

     

    Jon

  11. Hi,

     

    I would suggest the 503CW and a Mamiya 7II. Trying an SLR and rangefinder would be good! At any rate, try the square format. Since a 7II isn't an option, I would suggest the SWC. They're expensive, and specialized, but I would give it a rent! It would be a fun camera to use (Christmas present, right?).

     

    Have a good one,

     

     

     

    Jon

  12. Yeah,

     

    A 500CM makes sense; it's fully mechanical. An 80mm f2.8 is a good lens to start with, unless you had some special projects in mind. Even still, it's nice. If you want to get into black and white, I would suggest you look into a spot meter and Ansel Adams' book, The Negative. That book will teach you how the zone system works. After that . . . it's just a matter of film, right? Haha.

     

    Have a good one,

     

    Jon

  13. Alright,

     

    503cx "versus" 500cm . . .

     

    I have been considering medium format for a long time now. I'm

    decided on Hasselblad. My question: why are the 503cx's cheaper than

    the 500cm's? The 503's have a more "vibrant" screen and TTL flash

    metering . . .

     

    And because of these features, I would guess they were more attractive

    to wedding photographers (heavier use = cheaper price).

     

    Ideas, explanations, suggestions? I would appreciate your thoughts.

     

    Sincerely,

     

    Jon

  14. Yeah,

     

    I've shot with a few of the cameras you mentioned, and I can say that I enjoyed the Rolleiflex f2.8

     

    I have also used my friend's Hasselblad 500cm a little, and I like it as well. Zeiss lenses are wonderful, and the color is simply great. Subjective yes, so you may want to borrow one or more of these to see for yourself. Search out a buddy that owns one, and gain their trust. Between the two though . . . if you don't care about expanding you lenses too much . . . I would recommend the Rolleiflex. I find it very comfortable to shoot with (and a work horse to boot!).

     

    I wish you well,

     

     

     

    Jon

  15. I normally go out with just the camera and a lens, but if I'm carrying everything . . . ?

     

    Nikon FM with 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4, and 105mm f2.5 lenses

    Polarizing , UV(0), Y2, LB1 (?) filters

    Bogen tripod, bogen ball head, mini tripod

    cable release, and other stuff

     

    I don't like to carry all of that though, so I normally anticipate my needs and pull along the body with film and a single lens.

  16. I'm with Pavel. You have to make some decisions about where you want to go with medium format before you can make decisions about equipment.

     

    I shoot a Nikon SLR almost exclusively, but I have used Hasselblads and Rolleiflex TLRs. For me, personally, square negatives are awesome. I really enjoy 6x6. KEH is a source you should consider. If you are ready to commit some money, KEH is selling complete Hasselblad 500CMs (w/ back, waistlevel finder, and an 80mm f2.8 CF lens) for just over a grand (in excellent condition). If you have friends that use medium format cameras, use a favor and ask to borrow them. You'll get an idea of what you like and don't like. You'll get an idea of how you can use the advantages of the format.

     

    Have a good one,

     

     

     

    Jon

  17. Hi guys,

     

    I like using the 35mm SLR. I have had run-ins with Leica lenses and

    build quality before and have been impressed. I currently shoot a

    Nikon FM. I'm curious about Leica's R system. May I have a URL to a

    webpage that compares R bodies/lenses? Advantages/disadvantages of

    the various R bodies? I would also appreciate opinions/knowledge from

    the group on some of the middle R bodies: R3-R7 (?).

     

    Thanks much,

     

     

     

    Jon

  18. I have been looking at medium format cameras, and have become

    interested in Mamiya RFs. I was hoping someone could suggest a source

    in North Florida for rentals. I'd like to try a 7 II and a 6 if

    anyone knows of a store or person that would have them to rent

    (preferrably cheap, haha). Thanks much.

     

    -Jon

  19. I've been processing some Neopan 400 lately. I bought it cheap post expriation date as a little experiment. The date on the box is July of 2004, so that would make it almost a year. I'm sure it was stored under refrigeration at the shop, and I've been keeping it in a zip lock in the 'frig the whole time. It's been fine though. I don't know about color, but as time goes on, I'm becoming a bigger fan of buying expired film (I'm poor though, so you'll have to take that into consideration). What I ought to do it buy some fresh stuff in tandem and really do an experiment.
  20. I use hypo clearing solution. My basic processing regiment follows developer, stop, fix . . .

     

    I then fill the tank with distilled water and agitate for half a minute to dilute out the rest of the fix and to generally clean the film. I then use hypo clearing as directed (I think it's Kodak stuff). After, I open up the can and let a stream of water flow down the center of the spool for a minute or so (overflowing into the sink). If your water is particularly gnarly, you could do the last water wash with distilled water.

     

    This may be a little unusual, but I lay the film down on a sheet of glass (a long sheet, probably 6" by 4'). It's a sheet of scrap glass I bought at Lowe's for $2. I keep the glass clean and dry. I then run a soft rubber squeegee down the length of the glass. I do it on each side of the film, then I hang the film in the air to dry. I don't find in the contact bothers the film, and I get clean and dry film. I hope this method works for you. I'm in tight space and find it works pretty well for me. Later.

  21. Hi,

     

    I'll be embarking on a backpacking trip soon where I'll be hiking at

    around 12,000 ft above sea level. I haven't much experience taking

    pictures at high elevations, and was hoping those with experience or

    knowledge could offer some insight.

     

    I'll be shooting 35mm and am planning on taking some B&W print and

    some color print film with me (likely FP4+ and Reala). Any other film

    suggestions, filters, useful equipment? Any practical suggestions on

    technique or metering considerations?

     

    I'm thinking about contracting my tonal range a little during the B&W

    processing since most of my day pics will be in very bright, highly

    exposed areas. I'll probably bring along a UV filter and a circular

    polarizer too.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Jon

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